ooga booga!! 6 lights, sealed & moving coco cave!!

[ooga booga]

That's called a plumber's tape. I'm not sure if I trust that to be holding up 150 lbs w/o tearing or otherwise failing, though. Will still look around, but I have more time for it.

Anyways got my CO2 regulator in today, it's a C.A.P. REG-1.



Also grabbed another Sentinel CHHC-1 for a friend (I can get 'em for $400); this thing is the business! 2 more SuperSun 2's, and trying out Clonex's "Root Riot" plugs that look just like Rapid Rooters. $17 per 100, not too terrible.

 

[AndreNicky]

One question, Is there a reason u went with a co2 tank over a generator? Thanks for the answer in advance

 

[ooga booga]

One question, Is there a reason u went with a co2 tank over a generator? Thanks for the answer in advance

Great question; I'm glad you asked.

There are a few reasons, actually, on why I thought bottled CO2 was a better choice for me, in order of importance:

• No added heat - electricity, and therefore cooling, is very expensive here
• Inexpensive CO2 refills - $15 per 20# refill, no "weird looks" (well, none that matter)
• Safety - zero risk of fire (although it can be argued that a properly installed LP/NG is also extremely low risk)
• Less space occupied inside growroom

It bugs me a little bit that I have to carry around an odd looking CO2 tank (I plan on getting a bag / cover for this), but besides that I think I don't mind paying $15 for refills even if it only lasts a couple of weeks. Hopefully with a near-airtight sealed room and a CHHC-1 w/ fuzzy logic mode, it'll last longer.

I'll eventually get a 2nd 20# tank, so I can have a 2nd one on standby to give myself a little more flexibility on when refills need to be done, rather than giving myself only a ~24h window. A brand new aluminum tank, filled, w/ tax is $180-something. The REG-1 was $105. CHHC-1 is $400. So $700 for that setup.

 

[ooga booga]

I'm not sure if I'm smart enough to figure this out, so I'll ask for those who know: in a pulley system, does one need at least as much weight (or at least that much in pulling force) acting as the counterweight to the load being pulled?

For instance, if the scrubber weighs 150# and I weigh 155-160#, will this be a difficult task?

 

[FrankRizzo]

If I understand things right you shouldn't need as much weight. I'm not sure how the math works, but for each pulley you add the less pulling force you'll need. That's how they would move huge amounts of weight during the roman/egypt, whatever times. If you had three on the filter and two on the ceiling I bet it would be pretty easy to get it up there yourself. Plus the weight would be spread out really well.

I'm not even sure if this would work out to be honest. All I know is that if I had to hang a 150 lbs of anything from the ceiling, by myself, I would try this first. Once it's up there for peace of mind I would have some more permanent way to keep it up there.

If you don't trust the plumbers tape, maybe you could get some sheet metal and cut say 3 inch strips the go around the filter. The companies that make these things don't sell a way to strap it to the ceiling? I've never worked with a filter that big so I don't know a whole lot about them.

 

[srk]

alright so this is how i would hang that filter if I were you. Get the heavy duty loops not hooks but full hoops. If the studs are close enough I'd put 6 hoops up if the filter is as big as what I'm thinking it is. Put those in to the ceiling, get tie straps for a truck bed. If the studs are too far apart put a strap at the bottom pulling the three straps together at the bottom. Then just go back and forth pulling the filter up very slowly one strap by one. After it is up I'd use chains to reinforce. You'll get rid of a lot of vibration and noise doing this, i've seen huge filters hung this way, smaller ones with flexible straps to minimize vibration. Goodluck.

 

[ooga booga]

I took 100 cuts today. Unfortunately, not 96 of the Casey Jones as I had originally hoped & planned due to some changes in schedule; I did get 40 solid CJ cuts, though.



Trying out these new plugs called "Root Riot" from Hydro Dynamics (maker of Clonex). Looks like they're just yet another Rapid Rooter, but a few key advantages:

• They're square from a birds-eye view, and fit perfectly into these insert cells I have. More medium in the same diameter.
• The pre-made hole is much smaller, to my liking, the way it should be. Cuts are held tight and snug, unlike traditional Rapid Rooters with a 3-4mm hole. Remember this stuff is pretty stretchy.
• They seem to have a slightly softer, better texture & consistency, similar to the the Sunleaves brand. (I dislike the GH plugs for the most part.)

Just my mini canna-product review...

It will be 2 strains if I can help it. (I can't yet discuss what the other strain is...)



After starting framing on the last wall, I realized that on this side I can pad with more insulation since it's so close to the real wall. So using 2x4 studs, I'm padding with R-19 (made for 2x6) on this side, with the vapor barrier facing inside the growroom (pink exposed side out, touching the drywall / plywood).



Thanks everyone for the ideas on getting the scrubber up.

 

[ooga booga]

Got bored and wanted to see what things looked like with the hoods on...

 

[ooga booga]

More walls going up. About 80% of the framing is done & insulated, but these walls are taking about an hour per panel. Mainly caught up measuring, re-measuring and cutting these outlet holes, since this material can't easily be patched and re-formed like drywall.

 

[ooga booga]

Wrapping up for the evening, at 7 of 12 main panels installed. I'm now regretting not putting some studs behind where the boards meet, to keep it flat so that caulk will seal it easily. Now I'm thinking I'll have to use the uglier foil tape to seal the seams to hold them together.



By the way, here's the description on my wall material from the manufacturer's website:

Glasteel is a manufacturer of fiberglass reinforced panels for wall and ceiling applications. Some common applications for FRP are bathrooms, breakrooms, kitchens, food-processing areas, storage rooms and other areas where sanitation is a requirement.

Glasteel's process uses a special type of high strength polyester resin combined with fiberglass reinforcement to produce liner panels offering superior quality and durability. The result is a panel with a resin rich surface than is tough, strong and easy to clean.

Glasliner FRP panels are offered in two popular surface finishes. Embossed or Smooth Gel Coat, and are available in a variety of colors and sizes.

• Maximum sanitation protection
• Easily cleaned
• Improved chemical resistance
• Low cost installation
• High impact resistance
• Superior flexibility

Walking into this room and seeing these walls with the outlets near the ceiling makes me very happy. Just an extremely satisfying feeling...

Just kickin' back and getting ready to wire up some receptacles...

 

[yamaha_1fan]

eyelets and chain to hold the filter up.

I use the riot rooters and they seem to be working good.

Thanks for the info on those panels. I will make sure to never use them, way too much time in hanging. Drywall and a paint sprayer would have been much easier.

 

[ooga booga]

eyelets and chain to hold the filter up.

Think about the ease of maintenance, though. I'm already happy with the decision, just the installation alone... carrying drywall around here by myself w/o serious damage isn't easy. This stuff is flexible and easy to bend, move around and work with for the most part.

I use the riot rooters and they seem to be working good.

I like these Root Riot things much better than the other brands, and for the same price I'll get these every single time.

Thanks for the info on those panels. I will make sure to never use them, way too much time in hanging. Drywall and a paint sprayer would have been much easier.

Yeah I was thinking of using the eyelets. Instead of screws to drive vertically into the joists, I was thinking of removing some of the ceiling panels, drilling some holes horizontally through the sides of the joists and mounting the eye bolts sideways using washers & nuts. What do you think?

 

[Lagertester]

I use the riot rooters and they seem to be working good.

What is the differance between Root Riots and Rapid rooters? Just the name?

 

[ooga booga]

Trying out these new plugs called "Root Riot" from Hydro Dynamics (maker of Clonex). Looks like they're just yet another Rapid Rooter, but a few key advantages:

• They're square from a birds-eye view, and fit perfectly into these insert cells I have. More medium in the same diameter.
• The pre-made hole is much smaller, to my liking, the way it should be. Cuts are held tight and snug, unlike traditional Rapid Rooters with a 3-4mm hole. Remember this stuff is pretty stretchy.
• They seem to have a slightly softer, better texture & consistency, similar to the the Sunleaves brand. (I dislike the GH plugs for the most part.)

 

[yamaha_1fan]

I would just screw the eyelet into the joist and forget about removing panels. At leat two eyelets on each end, maybe some in the middle depending on size of eyelet.

 

[Lagertester]

My Bad

 

[ooga booga]

Light controller being built:



CHHC mounted, and location found for CO2 tank:

 

[tobaaaac]

I think that ratchet straps that are used for tying down things in the bed of a truck might work well for hanging that carbon filter.

I would appreciate it greatly if you could tell me more about this lighting controller. I'll be building one for my 2k as soon as I figure out what kind of relay I need and where to get it. A high amperage relay is the most important part, isn't it? I need to build one for two reasons: One of my timers is on the fritz and needs to be replaced anyway. And, I'm building a 4k room early next year and want to already have the experience of building one of these characters. Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.

 

[ooga booga]

I think that ratchet straps that are used for tying down things in the bed of a truck might work well for hanging that carbon filter.

I beat you to the ratchet straps, barely.

I would appreciate it greatly if you could tell me more about this lighting controller. I'll be building one for my 2k as soon as I figure out what kind of relay I need and where to get it. A high amperage relay is the most important part, isn't it? I need to build one for two reasons: One of my timers is on the fritz and needs to be replaced anyway. And, I'm building a 4k room early next year and want to already have the experience of building one of these characters. Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.

I got a pair of 30A DPST power relays (DPDT if you want flip/flop) with a 120v coil for this project.

It's basically just a magnet that pulls down a pair of contacts to make & break a power connection. Double pole because I'm running 240v. Make sure you get one with a silver / silver alloy contact, supposedly because the unavoidable arcing will corrode non-silver contacts.

 

[dongle69]

Careful with those ratchet straps!
Almost all of them are for tying down loads only, not for hanging and supporting weight.
Usually there is a warning on the packaging.
Watch out!