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Oldtimer's Haze

North51

Active member
Hi all,

i want to show you something that doesn't really belong here but it is related. This year i grew a neville's haze. this lady is haze dominant and was harvested after 17 weeks of flowering when practically all the trichomes were milky and less than 5% brown. and even after 17 weeks she was still throwing new pistils. i blacked her out for 15 weeks and she was fucking wild but well worth the dedication. she is sweet, spicy with a dominant eucalyptus scent. The smoke, don't know, still curing
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Sensumhor

Active member
Here is an update of my purple OTH growing happy on greenhouse, past week cold arrived, during night temperature have been arround 6-8 celsius degrees, but 20 during day
 

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H e d g e

Well-known member
I would like to know if this OT1HAZE was from a different haze, I had read something similar many pages ago ... maybe "haze" was a name used for a certain type of sativa,
Exactly this, ot1 said it was called haze because of the effect it has on you, people suggested that he crossed it with skunk to which he responded if he wanted to be knocked out he had a hammer in the shed.

He got the seeds from the last reproduction made in a poly tunnel in California that was being shut down via an advert he’d seen that he kept and posted a picture of on another forum, he contacted the growers to find out more about it and they said they’d tried crossing it with a Thai but the offspring were inferior to either parent so they’d kept it pure.

He made a biobizz feeding schedule for it but I can’t find it now.

I’ve got loads of these in the fridge, doubt the originals I got from him will be any good but I’m going to try, I think I’m ready now, I’m also getting old.
I’ve got some later ones via ace too so hopefully something will pop.
Rip ot1
 
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exoticrobotic

Well-known member
Exactly this, ot1 said it was called haze because of the effect it has on you, people suggested that he crossed it with skunk to which he responded if he wanted to be knocked out he had a hammer in the shed.

He got the seeds from the last reproduction made in a poly tunnel in California that was being shut down via an advert he’d seen that he kept and posted a picture of on another forum, he contacted the growers to find out more about it and they said they’d tried crossing it with a Thai but the offspring were inferior to either parent so they’d kept it pure.

I’ve got loads of these in the fridge, doubt any of the originals I got from him will be any good now but I’m going to try, I think I’m ready now, I’m also getting old.
I’ve got some later ones via ace too so hopefully something will pop.
Rip ot1

Best of luck with them @H e d g e

I find 3% hydrogen peroxide soak for a couple of days really helps break down the hard outer shell and membrane within and gives me 60% - 70% on 20yr old seed.

Ot1 realeased some absolute bangers. I'm so glad i managed to get a few. Did you get any of his Oldtimes? It is an amazing smoke of trippiness and hilarity.
 

H e d g e

Well-known member
Best of luck with them @H e d g e

I find 3% hydrogen peroxide soak for a couple of days really helps break down the hard outer shell and membrane within and gives me 60% - 70% on 20yr old seed.

Ot1 realeased some absolute bangers. I'm so glad i managed to get a few. Did you get any of his Oldtimes? It is an amazing smoke of trippiness and hilarity.
No, I wish I’d known then how special they are. I was daunted by the size, flowering period, and the description of the effects so they’ve sat in the fridge waiting for me to mature. I had the b line but fucked it up becoming unexpectedly homeless when they were about a foot out of the ground. Oh well, hopefully I’ll have better luck with these.
 
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H e d g e

Well-known member
Found this..

The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..
In answer to your Q's your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.
As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.
Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.
You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.
At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.
At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.
Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.
Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.
All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.
Does this make sense?
An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likly the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.
Being a puter man you will love this, I just spent an hr or more trying to find out why my new fire wire drive just would not mount on the desk top. I reinstalled all the extentions/drivers nadt. Then it occored to me it might work if I plugged the firewire cable in. Ot "good with plants shit with computers"
 
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