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Oh NOOOOO - Yellow Seedlings!!

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
Your seedlings need ferts. That is why the lowest leaves are turning yellow.

Your soil did have a low dose of nutes in it. But, I am willing to bet this is just a water soluble fert sprayed onto it to get the plants you tranplant into it a quick boost. (It should not advertise lasts 3 months or something because this can burn seedlings) Being water soluble, its long gone and probably has been washed from the soil...some of it at first wetting. There is nothing left except hopefully dolomite lime.

Promix is ready to go out of the bag. You can plant directly into it. You will be adjusting your fert water ph to 5.8 to 6 so the soil will go toward this if a little low or high in ph. Don't add more lime to compensate for the fact that dolomite lime gets washed from the soil and breaks down. You add gypsum and epsom salts to get more calcium and magnesium every third fert or so to boost levels with dolomite lime and when you need a boost or the dolomite lime is almost gone you can add these 2 everytime. It does not harm the plant at 1/4 teaspoon of both per gallon of water.

20-20-20 is twice as concentrated as 10-10-10. You would use 1/2 as much 20-20-20 as 10-10-10 to feed the same amount. Peters 20-20-20 is handy to have around because its considered high in phosphorus. This might be good for the seedlings first feed. 1/4 teaspoon per gallon = 60 ppm nitrogen. When the seedlings begin growing, increase this to 100 ppm nitrogen or a little less than a 1/2 teaspoon.

Peters and alot of cheap ferts have the source of nitrogen as urea or ammonia. Alot is not desirable. You should have at least 50% nitrate nitrogen or more in your ferts with little urea or ammonia. See the checklist I posted before about what to look for in a fert for veg.

Stickyicky had the same problem as you. Not knowing if he needed to apply ferts to his soil cause they had some to start. At my suggestion, he applied some and now they are budding. Here is his story...http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=35711&page=6&pp=15
 
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I2KanGrow

Active member
sproutco said:
20-20-20 is twice as concentrated as 10-10-10. You would use 1/2 as much 20-20-20 as 10-10-10 to feed the same amount. Peters 20-20-20 is handy to have around because its considered high in phosphorus.

OK - This is where I get confused, sproutco: how can, say "Brand A" 20-20-20 fert have more phosphorus in in it than "Brand B" fert? isn't the middle designation phosphorus... isn't 20% phosphorus, 20% phosphorus?? I see this kind of statement allot on these boards, and it just doesn't seem logical to me.

Thanks for clearing-up the 1/2 of 20-20-20 = 10-10-10 thing... this made sense, but you never know!!
 

I2KanGrow

Active member
BTW... Just wanted y'all to know that I'm taking sproutco's advice - assuming a phosphorus deficit and high pH. Time will tell, eh?

I'll report my results... Same Bat-time, saaame Bat-channel!
 

I2KanGrow

Active member
Hi Folks:

I believe things are beginning to look-up... Here's the pics for today - day 18 from seed:




On the left we have White Widow, Left is Northern Light. Pots are still a bit heavy (there's water down there!), I'm thinking they'll go another 2 days before needing any H2O. Man - if these things survive, I'll surely be amazed! I "pH-corrected" my water, only to find that I bottomed-out on my test kit - and really gave them very acidic water about 4 days ago. I realized what happened the next day (3 days ago) and flushed the plants with properly pH-ed water w/ sproutco-recommended ferts.

But amazingly - they're looking a bit greener - 2nd leaves are coming in fairly strong.

OK - I have 2 questions:

#1) Northern Light: should I trim the brown off of the 1st. leaves - it's much drier then the rest of the leaves... any harm leaving it on???

#2) These are currently under 4-26W CFLs (2 ea. CW and SW) - I have my "Red Greenery R2D2 growtub" justa-waiting for 'em - 10-26W CFLs (all CW for veg. all SW for flowering)... Soooo, when should I place them into my growtub and FIRE IT UP?????

Thanks!
 

mohawk819

New member
They look drowned to me

They look drowned to me

Hi all,
Them pour babies, when starting out if using a good soil no nutes for the first 2 to 4 weeks. Make sure soil drains well the roots need to reach out a bit for water and nutes, which good soil they will get all they need. I am going to learn how to post pictures soon and start a grow report. One way to tell when to water is by weight of planter. Feel when dry and fell when wet get to know the dif. Transplant when roots have created a nice little ball in container their in, water throughtly and gently remove from pot make sure that soil is evenly moisten in the pot to receive plant. You can add a rooting hormon to the water or nute mix used to wet soil with. Sorry about me spelling good luck and best wishes.
 
G

Guest

Hi I2KanGrow - it's been a while since I popped in. It looks like you're getting some really good advice from our gang of experts.

I'd say your problem is mostly from overwatering. It prevents the roots from developing and getting nutes from the soil. Also your soil mix is pretty light in nutes so a 1/4 strength dose of 12-15-12 Shultz plant food or 20-20-20 Peters would help out.

I've always had good luck with seedlings using 2 parts Promix, 1 part Vermiculite and 1 part Perlite. There's enough nutes in the Promix that I didn't have to fertilize until after repotting from the beer cups.

On my last grow I added 1 tbsp/gal Blood Meal, 1 tbsp/gal Bone Meal. These are slow releasing organic ferts providing N and P respectively. I didn't need to use nutes until the end of vegging.

Sproutco is right on with the advice to add Gypsum, Epsom salts and Dolomite lime. MJ needs lot's of magnesium and some calcium. Somebody here had some problems with Promix and is spreading bad advice to avoid it. Promix is fine and contains peat moss which turns the soil acidic as it composts over a period of time. I've had problems in late flowering by the pH dropping and locking out magnesium in Promix soil with no buffering agents. I've treated it by flushing the salts out of the soil and watering with 1 tsp Epsom Salts/gal. On my future grows, I will be using Dolomite Lime, Gypsum and Epsom salts.
 
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I2KanGrow

Active member
Big thanks, guys!

Big thanks, guys!

Hey sproutco, Minds_I, MyNameStitch...... and co:

Wanted you guys to know that my babies are really doing quite well now, thanks to Y-all!!!!!




...Not 100%, and a tad droopy after yesterdays watering. I PROMISE to let the soil dry out before watering again - lesson learned!!!
 

pieceofmyheart

Active member
Veteran
Relax and stop overtending those babies........

Personally I think you need more perlite, they looked bogged down to me from the beginning. I never and I mean never give my babies nutes. Would you give an infant a slice of pizza?
 
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W

WheelsOG

I'm doing my first grow now and have had lots of the same questions.

I'm struggling with the question of whether my plants are overwatered, or under fertilized.

My plants are about 21 days old now and are in 6" pots that are about 7" deep. We used a mix of 2 parts soil, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite.

These plants were transplanted into their pots about 10 days ago, and haven't been watered since then. I've poked the soil with my finger 1-2 inches deep and it feels pretty moist . I've been trying to come up with ways to aerate the soil. Worms? :)

Anyways because the soil is staying so moist i'm unsure whether to fertilize now or wait longer.

I think its becoming desperate times now. Plants are progressively starting to look worse.

Anyways i'll keep reading this thread. Its been helpful.
 
W

WheelsOG

The conclusion i've come to is this..

We've overwatered the plants due to the soil not drying out. As well, we've under fertilized the plants because we were fearful of overwatering the plants.

Using the supplies i have, a possible solution would be to transplant the plants into new soil with more perlite; possibly in a shorter pot. Then give them a fairly low dose of shultz 10-15-10 plant food.
 
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