Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

[PCBuds]

PC buds - I love the plant surrounded by light like that and having done flouros and all the diff spectrum too. Sweet lil set up you got there.

Thanks!!, but it's about time I let go of the flouros. They're half my wattage but not half of the light output.
And the top half of the fixture is being wasted.

Makes me want to do little SOG with the globes on against the wall just for novelty of it and have them grow contained in like a large flat maybe 7 or 8 inch deep shelves, like a full wall of them.

I figure the more light, the better.
They provide light to the areas where the overhead lighting can't penetrate to.

And it really helped keep my plant short.
I'm in 9 gallons of soil so it wants to grow big.

 

[PCBuds]

I screwed up.
I ended up getting the wrong stuff.
It's just regular heat sink paste/grease. It doesn't harden.

And I was supposed to get 30 grams (three tubes).





I'm going to order some of this stuff.







This is what somebody wrote about it.

While it can be fun to play with these sort of electronics, it’s really a waste of resources. Not just the components, but the time, energy, and R&D.

I'm really starting to waste my resources. Lol

 

[SuperBadGrower]

The current Bridgelux gen 3 strips are so cheap and give literally twice the light output of these things. Just something to consider... this thread is 4 years old... I realize its off topic, just cant help myself

This is a $16.55 36w "grow light":


these are only 175lm/w , so they only give 75% more light than the SILs..equivalent would be ~60w of SIL. the new strips are 200lm/w, available in 1ft suitable for micro size. That's not to say that the supermarket leds are bad of course... still cheaper on the initial purchase, I reckon, but thats about it.

 

[PCBuds]

My bulbs are only 80 lm/W.



I'm considering buying some gen 3 strips.

Maybe I can glue them to a SIL base so they screw in, then it would fit in this thread. lol

 

[ScrogMonster]

The current Bridgelux gen 3 strips are so cheap and give literally twice the light output of these things. Just something to consider... this thread is 4 years old... I realize its off topic, just cant help myself

This is a $16.55 36w "grow light":

these are only 175lm/w , so they only give 75% more light than the SILs..equivalent would be ~60w of SIL. the new strips are 200lm/w, available in 1ft suitable for micro size. That's not to say that the supermarket leds are bad of course... still cheaper on the initial purchase, I reckon, but thats about it.

Damn I could replace each of my 2ft x 4ft 306w fixtures with 5 of those and be running only 180w per fixture instead of 306w and have way better temperatures and use less AC. Each fixture would cost me $81 though before factoring in the cost of the driver(s) and any other parts needed, connecting wires? Can you tell me about that? How much would the cost of a driver or drivers and any other parts needed to run 5 of those fixtures (10 bars)?

The bulbs in my fixture only cost me $18 the sockets, wood, screws, wire... total fixture cost of my much less efficient SIL’s are about $40 each. I mean if I had money sitting around I’d want to replace them or I would have bought more efficient LED’s to start with. Thanks for sharing that though, one day I’m sure I’ll replace my cheapy SIL’s with some much pricier stuff from Digikey.

This thread might be 4 years old but SIL’s are still far cheaper and easier LED “grow lights” that IMO are much better then HID’s, and they’re a lot of fun to play around with, and available at about any store. That’s why this thread is still going after going after 4 years. Long live the SIL’s!!!

On another note, here is a Big Smooth nug from my first and previous harvest with this set up, this particular nug has been very roughly over manicured by my gf with the gloved finger scrape technique. It was her first time trimming. It’s still pretty though.

 

[SuperBadGrower]

(reply to #3266)
Oh dude that last line had me laughing.
It's right up your alley I think, a little elbow grease and research! That goes for most anyone in this thread... actually I learned a lot from lurking here, I've since 'graduated', here is a picture of the 9v 90cri cob units I made to light up room to indicate how crazy I got:



Again sorry to go off topic, i just want to inspire some people, as this thread has inspired me. Watts are expensive for me and it is different for everyone.

one thing I would add is that I hope no lurking kid shocks himself on these or AC cobs. Having used and tested plenty of the bulbs myself I would recommend anyone to leave the diffusor cap On. The light diffusion is beneficial if you are using multiple light sources and reflective walls. If you're worried about losses - in which case you should probably be buying more efficacious light source - add another bulb. The benefits of light diffusion in greenhouses is subject of academic study. It could be true that less, but more diffuse light causes equal photosynthesis compared to more intense less diffuse light. Personally I have seen the benefits of diffuse light going from HID (not diffuse) to COB (semi diffuse), to strips (very diffuse).

Just some additional 2 cents for anyone walking this path in 2019. Not trying to be haughty like look at my fancy shit. I used CFLs and all types of shit too, I've been there

 

[ScrogMonster]

My bulbs are only 80 lm/W.

I'm considering buying some gen 3 strips.

Maybe I can glue them to a SIL base so they screw in, then it would fit in this thread. lol

BUAAAAAHAHAHA!! I’m rollin.

SuperBadGrower - don’t get me wrong I do want those bars and it’s nice to know they exist and I’m excited to check out some grow pics/journals and see what they do so really, thx for sharing.

 

[SuperBadGrower]

Damn I could replace each of my 2ft x 4ft 306w fixtures with 5 of those and be running only 180w per fixture instead of 306w and have way better temperatures and use less AC. Each fixture would cost me $81 though before factoring in the cost of the driver(s) and any other parts needed, connecting wires? Can you tell me about that? How much would the cost of a driver or drivers and any other parts needed to run 5 of those fixtures (10 bars)?

Nice looking bud man!
Yeah what you say is true about the watts, especially heat. The bulbs get a bit hotter in my experience. They simply convert less power to light. When you run these strip light sources at a low current, they don't get hot at all. That's why I'm able to mount them like that, in the open air, on 2 pieces of wood.

Such a thing is maybe not advised, but I "know what I'm doing". Honestly, the cost goes a little above what I mentioned when you factor in the materials needed for a more proper build - some wires, screws, and maybe some aluminum for rigidity. Sure enough, a "heatsink-less" build is possible with all strips. Then, you only need a few cheap aluminium L profiles.

To answer the question, Those strips from my picture (2ft) are $4.80 a piece, less if you buy in bulk. (Older Gen 2, might be out of stock as gen 3 is replacing them)
The driver on that particular build is this one and the strips of gen 2 which are in stock can be found here. On such a driver you could connect your light sources in parallel and use 3 2ft strips for more efficacy (600mA each) or 2 for more power (900mA). Double the number of strips for 1ft. This is the ultra cheapest driver suited for these specific strips. not as good as slightly more expensive popular ones by Meanwell, but they will do the trick. Just wanted to show you guys what is possible when it comes to going ultra cheap DIY.

I would hate to clog up the thread much more, I also agree what you wrote. Its fun to do it whatever way you like and if it works it works. Anybody has some questions about DIY led or Driver matching, look on youtube for Ledgardener, there is a lot of information about this subject online by now.

edit: Be warned that it can be quite a deep rabbit hole certainly screwing in a bulb is much easier. I'm not really addressing the amount of learning and trial/error/experience required to be able to build .. took me quite a while to understand the electronics, but I was never the brightest bulb on the porch when it comes to that. Happy growing :d

 

[ScrogMonster]

Nice looking bud man!
Yeah what you say is true about the watts, especially heat. The bulbs get a bit hotter in my experience. They simply convert less power to light. When you run these strip light sources at a low current, they don't get hot at all. That's why I'm able to mount them like that, in the open air, on 2 pieces of wood.

Such a thing is maybe not advised, but I "know what I'm doing". Honestly, the cost goes a little above what I mentioned when you factor in the materials needed for a more proper build - some wires, screws, and maybe some aluminum for rigidity. Sure enough, a "heatsink-less" build is possible with all strips. Then, you only need a few cheap aluminium L profiles.

To answer the question, Those strips from my picture (2ft) are $4.80 a piece, less if you buy in bulk. (Older Gen 2, might be out of stock as gen 3 is replacing them)
The driver on that particular build is this one and the strips of gen 2 which are in stock can be found here. On such a driver you could connect your light sources in parallel and use 3 2ft strips for more efficacy (600mA each) or 2 for more power (900mA). Double the number of strips for 1ft. This is the ultra cheapest driver suited for these specific strips. not as good as slightly more expensive popular ones by Meanwell, but they will do the trick. Just wanted to show you guys what is possible when it comes to going ultra cheap DIY.

I would hate to clog up the thread much more, I also agree what you wrote. Its fun to do it whatever way you like and if it works it works. Anybody has some questions about DIY led or Driver matching, look on youtube for Ledgardener, there is a lot of information about this subject online by now.

edit: Be warned that it can be quite a deep rabbit hole certainly screwing in a bulb is much easier. I'm not really addressing the amount of learning and trial/error/experience required to be able to build .. took me quite a while to understand the electronics, but I was never the brightest bulb on the porch when it comes to that. Happy growing :d

Thanks friend. With those cheap drivers I would need at least two of them to build a fixture to replace one of mine, that’s another ~ $14 for an ~ total of $95 for a 2ft x 4ft led strip/driver build vs my ~ $40 SIL 2ft x 4ft build.
depending on the size of one’s grow and the size of their wallet/bank acc it could be totally worth the extra start up cost to save on electric over time.
My set up would have cost me another $330 if I had known about and chosen the led strips. At almost half the wattage (~700w) less and saving all the AC because all that xtra wattage is just heat, I might be saving $50/month max on my electric bill. It’d take 6 months at least to get the start up cost back. Something for people to think about at least. It’s nice to know what options are out there.

 

[PCBuds]

.

I would hate to clog up the thread much more, I also agree what you wrote. Its fun to do it whatever way you like.

It's not a clog, .. More like drano.




I got a few rep points from blynx for my crap so I'm sure you're good.

Maybe it's time for us to wake up and get new lighting.

.

edit: Be warned that it can be quite a deep rabbit hole certainly screwing in a bulb is much easier. I'm not really addressing the amount of learning and trial/error/experience required to be able to build .. took me quite a while to understand the electronics, but I was never the brightest bulb on the porch when it comes to that. Happy growing :d

I'm gonna buy some new stuff in the morning when I'm sober.

I got into the CO2 ge generator tonight. Lol

 

[PCBuds]

 

[ScrogMonster]

I found a cheap easy SIP method for my veg plants.

Not sure why this picture kept coming out rotated. I re took it and it happened again. The pots are sitting on 1 1/2” of perlite. That’s Walmart plastic bowl and plastic plate. 1$ for the bowl, plates were 1$ for a 4pk.

 

[f-e]

Be careful comparing these domestic lamps to strips as 1521lm, because they're not after pulling the dome off. Earlier we looked at the light transmission of these domes, and found the true lm/w figure to be more like 175lm/w, as supported by our own testing, not just the maths. Since then, the new one's have been released, 15% brighter.

It's the generation game. We started here with 17w 1521lm lamps, then 14w 1521lm lamps, and now it's 12w 1521lm lamps. That is 126lm/w through a diffuse dome with perhaps 70% light transmission. Giving us something more like 180lm/w from the leds, which are in turn perhaps 200lm/w leds being pushed too hard to achieve full efficiency. Picked from the same parts catalogue that everyone has access to, with similar budget restraints.

The strips won't be double the output. 126 x 2 is 254, but the strips are 180 at the test current. That is under 50% more, and we havn't took the dome off yet, or over driven the strips. I think the gap will close until we realise it's just leds in different packaging.

Even if you jump ship to known 220lm/w samsung QB's, they are over driven to 180lm/w in most fittings. There is no huge gap between anything, just as long as it's a recent design, that must compete with other brand leaders.

I have these screw-in lamps. Citizen cobs. QB's. Some smart cob junk to, and corn lamps that are a joke. I haven't found the screw-in's to be lacking beside the citizens v6 1212 or Samsung lm301b. But they trash the 100lm/w smart cobs, which there 14w 1521lm/w figure puts them beside. It's that globe.. It really lets them down.

 

[PCBuds]

Be careful comparing these domestic lamps to strips as 1521lm, because they're not after pulling the dome off. Earlier we looked at the light transmission of these domes, and found the true lm/w figure to be more like 175lm/w, as supported by our own testing, not just the maths. Since then, the new one's have been released, 15% brighter.



The strips won't be double the output.

I think the gap will close until we realise it's just leds in different packaging.


There is no huge gap between anything, just as long as it's a recent design, that must compete with other brand leaders.


It's that globe.. It really lets them down.

I was mistaken thinking the globes were only absorbing around 2-3% of the lumens. But I do like leaving them on for my side lighting so I can put them right in the plant.

My lights really are crap though. I guess they are first generation.

I'm going to wait for my cobs to arrive and do some testing and experiments before I make any more purchases.

@f-e. Do you know if my bulbs are rated with the globes on?
And I was wondering if your tests and measurements are taking into account the total light output including the light that beams off sideways from the globe?

 

[PCBuds]

I checked another bulb of mine and the numbers look a little better.




Then I decided on a compromise for my side lighting.
That ought to keep the leaves out. Lol

 

[Hookahhead]

That modified globe looks really nice PCBuds.

I found a pretty good article that looks at the internals and circuitry of 4 different bulbs, it turns out they’re all a little different in design.

https://www.powerelectronictips.com/teardown-60-w-equivalent-led-bulbs/

 

[PCBuds]

That modified globe looks really nice PCBuds.

Yea, but not up close. Lol

 

[f-e]

This is a repeat post. If you have read the thread, skip it.

It's a little different globally, but when the 100w lamp was pulled from sale in the states, it was also renamed the 1521 lumen lamp. A lamp we keep buying. It's actually just it's name though. Not the actual output. But it's not a total scam. 1521lm is how much white light is needed to replace a 100w incandescent, not the lumens from an incandescent. It's also the European measure, not state side. It's the global market mixing everything up.

The 1521lm lamp should produce about that. As it is when we buy it. How they got that light from it is their business. So yes, taking the globe off does give a huge boost. As tested from all angles, except above. The diffuse nature of the globe, defracts some light beams upwards. So it's brighter from above when the globe is fitted. Even at the height of the leds, at 90 degree's to them, it's brighter with the globe. But just a few degree's down, the lamp with globe removed is brighter. I did infact put one in a black box and do the measurements.

Another user found 40% losses from the globe, which is right for an acrylic cover of this type. Better covers are polycarbonite. Maybe 30% loss. The very best covers, from altered polycarb, from just the one source, managed near 15% losses. But I'm not sure any budget for screw in lamp manufacture could cover the use of such licensed material. My tests of a couple of lamps, found about 33% losses.

 

[PCBuds]

I'm likin it!!

 

[PCBuds]