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NUTES/ HEAT OR JUST PH BURN

I also read that mixing different nutes together can cause shock and some nutes can actually fight between each other...however is that something that you practice?
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
I also read that mixing different nutes together can cause shock and some nutes can actually fight between each other...however is that something that you practice?

I havent yet, but will. I am on my first setup and was wondering the same thing. Read what I stated in my last post not that long ago, but they did not specify nutrients they were using. I plan on doing a light strength solution of MaxiBloom, as well as a light strength solution of FoxFarms Tiger Bloom.

I will say, I am also following the K.I.S.S. and Lucas methods, so I might stick with half and half through out. I believe the Lucas method calls for you to use MaxiBloom all through out the grow, both veg and flower.

I am taking things on quick though, and am in the process of creating a veg cab as well as going no-till after this first round. I guess I needed some spice in my life. That, and the thought of buying new, expensive soil each round, quickly lead me to no-till. Plus, by making the soil happy, you ultimately make what you grow, happy. The catch-phrase I've noticed through out my research is, "you feed your soil, not your plant." But it couldn't be more true. If you see the specimens individuals who are currently in no-till are growing, you will instantly be hooked. I know I was.

Regardless, things are looking good for you! Keep it up.

Tri_Cho_Me
 
Never heard for those methods but will for sure look into them! What do you mean by "no-till"?


Also is it possible to switch the light for couple of hours- right now I have it from 06-18 and would like to do 11-23, can that harm the plants or they won't even notice it?

After two days of having 12/12 I can already see first hairs coming out ha...also concerning feeding schedule I noticed that giving 4ml per liter every second time watering doesn't work as the plants use all the nutes and leaves are turning yellow meanwhile! So I will do 4ml per liter and then 2ml per liter and 4ml/l and so on....also I will start adding the flowering biobizz and I noticed phosphorous def on two plants...little bit better to act asap than wait :)

I'm so proud of my grow consider its first time indoor, always wanted to do it and I'm loving it now love peace and happiness :)
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
No-till is trying to recreate Mother Nature basically. Creating an organic soil with worms, fungi, Bugs, etc. Making the soil happy then in turn makes your plants happy.

The term no-till, refers to not disrupting the soil to plant or any other time. You just keep adding compost and other organic matter to mulch and that feeds the soil. Compost and seed sprout teas also help with deficiencies and pest problems...among many others.

Check out my no-till adventure in my signature.

Tri_Cho_Me
 

Dimlux Kristen

New member
It could just be seeping down the sides. When the soil dries it shrinks and pulls away from the sides of the pot. This allows water to travel from top to bottom in no time without being soaked up by your medium. What I do to alleviate this is to water a little bit to let the top soil get wet and expand. After a couple minutes, resume watering and and everything should be soaked up by your medium now.

Just my two cents!

Tri_Cho_Me
I agree. Sometimes the soil it too dry to accept a full watering and its better to water a little and then come back 15 min later to finish the job when the soil is a little loosened up.
 
I agree. Sometimes the soil it too dry to accept a full watering and its better to water a little and then come back 15 min later to finish the job when the soil is a little loosened up.

Hey thanks for taking the time and look at the discussion.

Yeah I realized that, however couple of minutes does the job already, at least for my soil and plants.

For 6l pot I use 2.5l of water which results with aproximately 0.3/0.5l run of meaning that the soil is well saturated and there are no dry pockets!
And I take my time to water in probably 4 intervals with break halfway to give soil time to get watered by gravity and not weight of the water pressing down.
 
I see! Makes sense it's like creating compost from the "waste organic material"? I would understand doing that if I were to go bigger scale and lived in nature.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
I see! Makes sense it's like creating compost from the "waste organic material"? I would understand doing that if I were to go bigger scale and lived in nature.

But the idea is to re-create mother nature which is the best possible soil for your plants. Isn't that what we want. As soon as I discovered no-till, I had to switch because I knew that is what is best. It is providing everything your plant needs.

I am just the type of person that wants whats best in all situations in my life. #cheesy But seriously. If you know this is the best, why do something else? Thats the way I look at it any way.

Just keep an open mind and always accept new knowledge and methods.

Tri_Cho_Me
 
Any idea whether this is phosphorous def?


Or...what?

Thanks for your replies.
 

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truck

Member
are you waiting for the pots to get dry before watering or feeding? Maybe too dry or too wet could cause this too.
 
what did you feed it last? Most things are a P.H. issue

I'm feeding biobizz grow 4ml per liter of water then ph the water with nutes to 5.8-6...I know it's low but the run-off is coming at 7ph!

So i figured I should stick with that ph since the plants have been receiving this from the beginning and they seem to like it. Also only two out of four are showing this signs which is strange considering that they all get the same.

You can check my grow on YouTube channel "space hobby".

Also today I switched the food to biobizz flower, started with 3ml per liter.

Important to note is also I gave them nutes every watering as doing it every second time the leaves started becoming yellow almost instantly (for plant grow life cycle).

I'm going to post some pic and new video in couple of days as the flowers started growing already in week time.
 
are you waiting for the pots to get dry before watering or feeding? Maybe too dry or too wet could cause this too.

Yes I am waiting for sure...I water then every third to fourth day. Watering them when soil is still slightly (but really slightly) wet.

I noticed however that the soil is very compact! Is there a way to soften it? I was thinking of putting in a worm or two per pot to air the soil out...what do you think?
 

truck

Member
how long have they been in the 6L pot? The tight soil is usually a sign of micro nutrient deficiency. Usually Calcium and Magnesium. I like using a little epsom salt 1/4tsp per gal and age olds calcium supplement 1tbs per gallon. You can try other calmag supplaments, but i haven't found one i like. Also the reason i'm saying calmag is because if your mag levels are off the plant can't uptake Phosphorus, if the plant doesn't have calcium it can't uptake nitrogen. Which usually lead to a tight top soil. Also you may try something like sledgehammer or another water wetting agent that will help loosen up that tight soil only once every couple weeks should be enough to as little as once a month, it helps flush nutrients so if ever think its nutrient lock up a little flush with sledge hammer works well. Make sure you give the top soil a scratching every so often as well. One other trick is to flush water through the soil tell you start to get air bubbles then you know you have loosened up the soil enough to allow air exchange. You may need to water more each time as they get older to ensure you are getting full saturation. You may try checking PPMs as you water. You want to water tell you get a slight uptick in PPM 500-700ppm is usually what i would see when i would check it regularly to know i had fully water through the bucket pushing nutrients down and releasing any excess nutes locked up in the soil that aren't being used. Hope this helps.
 

truck

Member
you also may try top dressing with some worm castings and or some dry nutrient of choice, to give you some long term slow release nutrients to help ease the need to feed every time. You might want to try mulching the top layer of your pots, any bark mulch or composted bark mulch should do, composted is better, fox farm has a good composted bark mulch. Sometimes watering or top dressing with humate or humic acid work well. They help by help release locked up nutrients, which helps with tight soil.
 
how long have they been in the 6L pot? The tight soil is usually a sign of micro nutrient deficiency. Usually Calcium and Magnesium. I like using a little epsom salt 1/4tsp per gal and age olds calcium supplement 1tbs per gallon. You can try other calmag supplaments, but i haven't found one i like. Also the reason i'm saying calmag is because if your mag levels are off the plant can't uptake Phosphorus, if the plant doesn't have calcium it can't uptake nitrogen. Which usually lead to a tight top soil. Also you may try something like sledgehammer or another water wetting agent that will help loosen up that tight soil only once every couple weeks should be enough to as little as once a month, it helps flush nutrients so if ever think its nutrient lock up a little flush with sledge hammer works well. Make sure you give the top soil a scratching every so often as well. One other trick is to flush water through the soil tell you start to get air bubbles then you know you have loosened up the soil enough to allow air exchange. You may need to water more each time as they get older to ensure you are getting full saturation. You may try checking PPMs as you water. You want to water tell you get a slight uptick in PPM 500-700ppm is usually what i would see when i would check it regularly to know i had fully water through the bucket pushing nutrients down and releasing any excess nutes locked up in the soil that aren't being used. Hope this helps.


they have been in 6l pots for 1.5months now and I will not replant them anymore as I don't have space...I will start using biobizz alga-mix and biobizz haven to get those things in order. I guess Mg and Ca are present in those two solutions, actually pretty sure.

For the soil, everytime I water them there are bubbles sounds coming out and I pay extra attention that whole pot gets saturated.
As far as PPM's go I actually haven't invested in one yet but i guess its time to do so.

Also as I started adding biobizz bloom one of the plants still needs excessive amount of Nitrogen so I am wondering whether it is smart to mix biobizz grow/bloom at the same time?

I''m not sure aobut adding any nutrients rich soil at this moment as it doesn't give me control and if there is too much etc. it will cause me extra trouble.

however tell me more about Humic acid?
 
also what product specifically is out there to unlock the nutrients out of the soil? I was looking and CANNA aqua A&B but that in itself also has nutrients in meaning that I can't add biobizz anymore not to burn the plant...right?
 
also what product specifically is out there to unlock the nutrients out of the soil? I was looking and CANNA aqua A&B but that in itself also has nutrients in meaning that I can't add biobizz anymore not to burn the plant...right?

Not sure where you are going here. You want to unlock nutrients from the soil and speak of Canna A & B and state that it has some nutrients in it. Of course it does it is a fertilizer. It isnt designed to unlock nutrients from soil it is a soil less hydroponic vegetative nutrient.
 
G

ganjygav

Hi fella. You're supposed to use both biobizz grow and bloom in flower together anyway.
I'm surprised that your ph level isn't causing lockouts. As low as I go is 6.3 but normally is around 6.5ph.

Funny to see it working for you in soil. Just goes to show not everything is set in stone.
 

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