St. Phatty
Active member
0-10-0.
Not unlike wood ash.
Not unlike wood ash.
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NPK of Cannabis ash?
- Thread starter Cvh
- Start date
H G Griffin
Well-known member
I haven't spent much time on those numbers, but right off the bat the C values were confusing.
If the leaves are 40.5% C and the stalks are 56.8% C, how can the entire plant only be 38.94% C?
Am I missing something obvious? If so, feel free to mock me, but please educate me while doing so.
i would be cautious using wood/plant ash in soil... it is highly alkaline and tends to gum up the structure/consistency.
i would only use it with calcicole plants (that like lime) .. such as cabbage family.
VG
i would only use it with calcicole plants (that like lime) .. such as cabbage family.
VG
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
I haven't spent much time on those numbers, but right off the bat the C values were confusing.
If the leaves are 40.5% C and the stalks are 56.8% C, how can the entire plant only be 38.94% C?
Am I missing something obvious? If so, feel free to mock me, but please educate me while doing so.
Maybe there's none in the roots and this skews the average?
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
I used wood ash from the fireplace as my only soil amendment for quite a few good years as a gorilla in the Virginia wilderness west of Washington DC several decades ago. The only problem I ever ran into as a result were that some of the plants got dangerously large & I worried about someone spotting them. The trees I was burning to make that ash were mostly oak, ash, beech, sycamore, walnut, hickory and birch as far as I can remember. Fireplace ash worked great in the garden too, the tomato plants were always monsters. Of course I have no I idea what kind of numerical rating to put on it, but it seems like generally great stuff to mix in to soil. I guess too much would eventually cause a problem, I don't think I ever put more than half a gallons worth on any one plant.
yes in the open ground it is harder to use enough to change the soil, especially as a topdress. I use it in my garden as i said... but only on certain plants ( use it once every 3 years in crop rotation, before planting brassicas.. other years i just use compost) . The local soil chemistry and type will also be in play. If the native soil is acidic and sandy you are less likely to have a problem.
Never use fireplace ash if you have burnt coal... (it can contain arsenic, cadmium ectc )
VG
Never use fireplace ash if you have burnt coal... (it can contain arsenic, cadmium ectc )
VG
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I personally recommend to others not to use wood ash as an amendment, unless it’s composed first because of the alkalinity but when you think about it, it must contain large amounts of plant available silica and calcium and all the other minerals that make up a plant and the volume of my soils seem to have no problem buffering it.
I like to spread it, out of the indoor fire, over my beds at one handful per square meter but can never produce enough for all my beds in one season.
It always blows my mind to see how little is produced by so much.
Cheers,
40
I personally recommend to others not to use wood ash as an amendment, unless it’s composed first because of the alkalinity but when you think about it, it must contain large amounts of plant available silica and calcium and all the other minerals that make up a plant and the volume of my soils seem to have no problem buffering it.
I like to spread it, out of the indoor fire, over my beds at one handful per square meter but can never produce enough for all my beds in one season.
It always blows my mind to see how little is produced by so much.
Cheers,
40
Rico Swazi
Active member
I haven't spent much time on those numbers, but right off the bat the C values were confusing.
If the leaves are 40.5% C and the stalks are 56.8% C, how can the entire plant only be 38.94% C?
Am I missing something obvious? If so, feel free to mock me, but please educate me while doing so.
As a graduate of the Jethro Bodine School of Higher Learning, I thought my cypherin skills were up to the challenge, but the numbers still aren't lining up.
The seeds were the missing part of the equation not your fault but mine due to lousy cut and paste. my bad
The ashes of the seeds contain: KOH (20.81%), NaCO3(0.64%), CaO (25.57%), MgO (0.96%), FeO2(0.74%), H3PO4(35.52%),CaSO
4(0.18%), NaCl (0.09%), H2SiO3(13.48%), C (6.19%)
maybe its the new math they are teaching these days but the numbers still don't jive.
Theleaves contain: C (40.50%)
The stalks contain: C (56.80%)
the seeds contain C (6.19%)
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Rico Swazi
Active member
same should be said of biochar
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...60412018311000[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
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the question now for another thread is -
which is better, ferments, biomass or ashes?
St. Phatty
Active member
Yes - save your lungs for the good stuff !
Handling wood ash, the Dust can Really Suck.
One of my get around to it tasks is to un-plug one of the toilets.
The tool - a solution of store-bought Potassium Carbonate. Highly alkaline, but not as bad as Lye.
Wood ash = Potassium Carbonate, mostly.
It’s not that strong.
You can concentrate it through an evaporation cycle.
That all gets out of the scope of this thread though. More in the scope of DIY chemical fertilizer.
