ThaLonelyStoner
Member
^^I would like to know that too.
-
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Organics, A Growing Market - Humic and Fulvic Acid
By Luis Bartolo, Maximum Yield Magazine
In this issue we are going to talk about humic and fulvic acid and the role they play in the organic and horticultural market. Nowadays both humic and fulvic acids are being used by a lot of growers (organic as well as hydro growers) for their benefits. We hope you will enjoy this article and derive the necessary useful information from it.
Historic background of humic acids
What is Humic acid?
Humic acid is that fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water under acid condition (below pH 2) but soluble at a greater pH. It is the collective name for the acid radical found in humic matter.
Liquid humic acid is a suspension, based on potassium-humates, which can be applied successfully in many areas of plant production as a plant growth stimulant and soil conditioner. The origin: through extraction the potassium humates are isolated from leanardite and are dissolved in water. This produces an aqueous suspension with a high content of humic acids, potassium, iron and a large number of trace elements ready for uptake by plants.
The Role of Humic Acids
Horticultural/Organic growers have recognized the value of regular additions of organic matter to the soil since prehistoric times. However, the chemistry and function of the organic matter has been a subject of controversy since men began their postulating about it in the I8th century. Until the time of Liebig, it was supposed that humus was used directly by plants, but after Liebig, it shows plant growth depends upon inorganic compounds. Many soil scientists hold the view that organic matter is useful for fertility only as it is broken down with the release of its constituent nutrient elements into inorganic forms.
At the present time most soil scientists hold a more moderate view and at least recognize that humus influences soil fertility through its effect on the water-holding capacity of the soil. Also, since plants have been shown to absorb and translocate the complex organic molecules of systemic insecticides, they can no longer discredit the idea that plants may be able to absorb the soluble forms of humus.
What can Humic substances/acids do?
• Aid plant tissues requiring free oxygen for aerobic respiration, and thus provide metabolic energy to all higher plants.
• Combine with sunlight and photosynthesis to furnish metabolic energy.
• When used as a dilute solution for foliar spray, cause plants to experience a notable uptake of oxygen, thus increasing plant growth.
• Not only assist plant respiration, but also increase the production and productivity of microorganisms.
• Assist plant respiration; they can serve as hydrogen acceptors for various plant root storage tissue.
• Produce energy involving photosynthesis, enhancing this process which includes the biochemical manufacture of complex organic materials, especially carbohydrates from carbon dioxide, water, trace minerals, and inorganic salts, along with sunlight energy for chlorophyll production.
• Increase the chlorophyll content in plant leaves when the plant is provided with root nutrient or foliar spray.
• Directly influence the development of enzymes and the net enzyme synthesis.
• Contain auxins; auxins are involved in the chelating of iron for the plant, improving growth, health, and nutrient intensity of the plant, especially the development of the root system of the plant.
What is fulvic acid?
Fulvic Acid is the most plant-active of the Humic Acid compounds, offering physical, chemical and biological benefits. Natural buffering, chelating and extremely high ion-exchange properties make mineral elements easier for plants to absorb. This results in increased plant vitality, resistance to environmental stress and improved crop quality and yields.
Benefits of fulvic acids:
Fulvic acid is especially active in dissolving minerals and metals when solutions are in water. The metallic minerals simply dissolve into ionic form, and disappear into the fulvic structure becoming bio-chemically reactive and mobile. The fulvic acid actually transforms these minerals and metals into elaborate fulvic acid molecular complexes that have vastly different characteristics from their previous metallic mineral form. Fulvic acid is nature's way of "chelating" metallic minerals, turning them into readily absorbable bio-available form. Fulvic acid also has the unique ability to weather and dissolve silica that it comes in contact with.
Fulvic acid enhances the availability of nutrients and makes them more readily absorbable, allowing minerals to regenerate and prolong time of essential nutrients. It prepares minerals to react with cells and allows minerals to inter-react with one another, breaking them down into the simplest ionic form, chelated by the fulvic acid electrolytes.
Fulvic acid readily complexes with minerals and metals, making them available to plant roots and easily absorbable through cell walls. It makes minerals such as iron, which are not usually very mobile, easily transported through plant structures. Fulvic acids dissolve and transpose vitamins, coenzymes, auxins, hormones, and natural antibiotics that are generally found throughout the soil, making them available.
These substances are effective in stimulating even more vigorous and healthy growth, producing certain bacteria, fungi, and actinomyceles in decomposing vegetation in the soil. It has been determined that all known vitamins can be present in healthy soil.
Plants manufacture many of their own vitamins, yet these from the soil further supplement the plant. Upon ingestion, animals and humans easily absorb these nutrients, due to the fact that they are in the perfect natural plant form as nature intended. Fulvic acid can often transport many times its weight in dissolved mineral elements.
Fulvic acid complexes have the ability to bio-react with one another, and also inter-react with cells to synthesize or transmute new mineral compounds. The transmutation of vegetal silica and magnesium to form calcium in animal and human bones is a typical example of new synthesis of minerals.
Fulvic acid has the ability to store complex vitamins in its structure, where they are presented to the cell in combination with complexed minerals. In this perfect, natural condition, they can be catalysed and utilized by the cell. In the absence of adequate trace minerals, vitamins are unable to perform their proper function.
It is apparent that there is very little that man-made intervention can do to aid or detract from Mother Nature's complexities. We are of an age where profit and abundance may be the foremost motivation for farming of many plants, yet if you take the view that if it is not broke, do not fix it, you can see that everything is there for success in growing, all that is needed is the natural resources, a little faith and allowing the natural elements to do their magic. We can see the results still, as our ancestors did, maybe without the odd sacrifice of a cow, but the future is actually in our past in this respect. There is nothing scientists can do that will make better what is already a perfect blend once all the elements are present.
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/kb/humic-fulvic-acid.html
By Luis Bartolo, Maximum Yield Magazine
In this issue we are going to talk about humic and fulvic acid and the role they play in the organic and horticultural market. Nowadays both humic and fulvic acids are being used by a lot of growers (organic as well as hydro growers) for their benefits. We hope you will enjoy this article and derive the necessary useful information from it.
Historic background of humic acids
What is Humic acid?
Humic acid is that fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water under acid condition (below pH 2) but soluble at a greater pH. It is the collective name for the acid radical found in humic matter.
Liquid humic acid is a suspension, based on potassium-humates, which can be applied successfully in many areas of plant production as a plant growth stimulant and soil conditioner. The origin: through extraction the potassium humates are isolated from leanardite and are dissolved in water. This produces an aqueous suspension with a high content of humic acids, potassium, iron and a large number of trace elements ready for uptake by plants.
The Role of Humic Acids
Horticultural/Organic growers have recognized the value of regular additions of organic matter to the soil since prehistoric times. However, the chemistry and function of the organic matter has been a subject of controversy since men began their postulating about it in the I8th century. Until the time of Liebig, it was supposed that humus was used directly by plants, but after Liebig, it shows plant growth depends upon inorganic compounds. Many soil scientists hold the view that organic matter is useful for fertility only as it is broken down with the release of its constituent nutrient elements into inorganic forms.
At the present time most soil scientists hold a more moderate view and at least recognize that humus influences soil fertility through its effect on the water-holding capacity of the soil. Also, since plants have been shown to absorb and translocate the complex organic molecules of systemic insecticides, they can no longer discredit the idea that plants may be able to absorb the soluble forms of humus.
What can Humic substances/acids do?
• Aid plant tissues requiring free oxygen for aerobic respiration, and thus provide metabolic energy to all higher plants.
• Combine with sunlight and photosynthesis to furnish metabolic energy.
• When used as a dilute solution for foliar spray, cause plants to experience a notable uptake of oxygen, thus increasing plant growth.
• Not only assist plant respiration, but also increase the production and productivity of microorganisms.
• Assist plant respiration; they can serve as hydrogen acceptors for various plant root storage tissue.
• Produce energy involving photosynthesis, enhancing this process which includes the biochemical manufacture of complex organic materials, especially carbohydrates from carbon dioxide, water, trace minerals, and inorganic salts, along with sunlight energy for chlorophyll production.
• Increase the chlorophyll content in plant leaves when the plant is provided with root nutrient or foliar spray.
• Directly influence the development of enzymes and the net enzyme synthesis.
• Contain auxins; auxins are involved in the chelating of iron for the plant, improving growth, health, and nutrient intensity of the plant, especially the development of the root system of the plant.
What is fulvic acid?
Fulvic Acid is the most plant-active of the Humic Acid compounds, offering physical, chemical and biological benefits. Natural buffering, chelating and extremely high ion-exchange properties make mineral elements easier for plants to absorb. This results in increased plant vitality, resistance to environmental stress and improved crop quality and yields.
Benefits of fulvic acids:
Fulvic acid is especially active in dissolving minerals and metals when solutions are in water. The metallic minerals simply dissolve into ionic form, and disappear into the fulvic structure becoming bio-chemically reactive and mobile. The fulvic acid actually transforms these minerals and metals into elaborate fulvic acid molecular complexes that have vastly different characteristics from their previous metallic mineral form. Fulvic acid is nature's way of "chelating" metallic minerals, turning them into readily absorbable bio-available form. Fulvic acid also has the unique ability to weather and dissolve silica that it comes in contact with.
Fulvic acid enhances the availability of nutrients and makes them more readily absorbable, allowing minerals to regenerate and prolong time of essential nutrients. It prepares minerals to react with cells and allows minerals to inter-react with one another, breaking them down into the simplest ionic form, chelated by the fulvic acid electrolytes.
Fulvic acid readily complexes with minerals and metals, making them available to plant roots and easily absorbable through cell walls. It makes minerals such as iron, which are not usually very mobile, easily transported through plant structures. Fulvic acids dissolve and transpose vitamins, coenzymes, auxins, hormones, and natural antibiotics that are generally found throughout the soil, making them available.
These substances are effective in stimulating even more vigorous and healthy growth, producing certain bacteria, fungi, and actinomyceles in decomposing vegetation in the soil. It has been determined that all known vitamins can be present in healthy soil.
Plants manufacture many of their own vitamins, yet these from the soil further supplement the plant. Upon ingestion, animals and humans easily absorb these nutrients, due to the fact that they are in the perfect natural plant form as nature intended. Fulvic acid can often transport many times its weight in dissolved mineral elements.
Fulvic acid complexes have the ability to bio-react with one another, and also inter-react with cells to synthesize or transmute new mineral compounds. The transmutation of vegetal silica and magnesium to form calcium in animal and human bones is a typical example of new synthesis of minerals.
Fulvic acid has the ability to store complex vitamins in its structure, where they are presented to the cell in combination with complexed minerals. In this perfect, natural condition, they can be catalysed and utilized by the cell. In the absence of adequate trace minerals, vitamins are unable to perform their proper function.
It is apparent that there is very little that man-made intervention can do to aid or detract from Mother Nature's complexities. We are of an age where profit and abundance may be the foremost motivation for farming of many plants, yet if you take the view that if it is not broke, do not fix it, you can see that everything is there for success in growing, all that is needed is the natural resources, a little faith and allowing the natural elements to do their magic. We can see the results still, as our ancestors did, maybe without the odd sacrifice of a cow, but the future is actually in our past in this respect. There is nothing scientists can do that will make better what is already a perfect blend once all the elements are present.
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/kb/humic-fulvic-acid.html
Now granted their are different manufacturers of Humic and Fulvic acids.
But as far General Organics:
Diamond Nectar 0-1-1
Refined Humic Acid AKA Fulvic Acid
.01% Low molecular Weight Humic acids derived from Leonardite
Feeding apps: (As per label)
Seedlings and Cuttings:
Use 1ml Per Liter (1-2tsp Per gallon) IN WATER or DILUTED NUTRIENT SOLUTION.
Hydroponics:
Use 1-2ml per liter (1-2tsp per gallon) In water or Nutrient Mix. Replace with each Nutrient change.
Soil:
Use 3ml per liter (3tsp per gallon) In water/fertilizer mix with every fertilizer application.
Foliar spray:
Mix 50ml per liter (6Fl Oz per gallon) In water. Spray both sides of foliage until wet every 7-14 days.
For best results combine with nutrients.
Diamond Black 0-0-1
Liquid Humic Acid
6.0% Humic Acid derived from Leonardite
Feeding apps (As Per Label):
Potted Plants:
Mix 1 TBSP Pee gallon of irrigation water
Lawn/Garden/and Yard Plants:
Mix 1/2Cup in 5 gallons of water and water freely. Apply throughout growing season (4-8 times per year) or apply 4 ounces (1/2cup) per 1,000 square meters 4-8 times throughout the growing season with a hose end sprayer or other liquid applicator.
Now for personal experience with the FULL line of general organics.
I combined all nutes of the organics line, except the bloom and bio bud, all at once and the growth for soil was explosive vegatation.
My plant on a vertical scale was gaining roughly 1/2 to 3/4" in height daily.
But as far General Organics:
Diamond Nectar 0-1-1
Refined Humic Acid AKA Fulvic Acid
.01% Low molecular Weight Humic acids derived from Leonardite
Feeding apps: (As per label)
Seedlings and Cuttings:
Use 1ml Per Liter (1-2tsp Per gallon) IN WATER or DILUTED NUTRIENT SOLUTION.
Hydroponics:
Use 1-2ml per liter (1-2tsp per gallon) In water or Nutrient Mix. Replace with each Nutrient change.
Soil:
Use 3ml per liter (3tsp per gallon) In water/fertilizer mix with every fertilizer application.
Foliar spray:
Mix 50ml per liter (6Fl Oz per gallon) In water. Spray both sides of foliage until wet every 7-14 days.
For best results combine with nutrients.
Diamond Black 0-0-1
Liquid Humic Acid
6.0% Humic Acid derived from Leonardite
Feeding apps (As Per Label):
Potted Plants:
Mix 1 TBSP Pee gallon of irrigation water
Lawn/Garden/and Yard Plants:
Mix 1/2Cup in 5 gallons of water and water freely. Apply throughout growing season (4-8 times per year) or apply 4 ounces (1/2cup) per 1,000 square meters 4-8 times throughout the growing season with a hose end sprayer or other liquid applicator.
Now for personal experience with the FULL line of general organics.
I combined all nutes of the organics line, except the bloom and bio bud, all at once and the growth for soil was explosive vegatation.
My plant on a vertical scale was gaining roughly 1/2 to 3/4" in height daily.
Now what I don't like is the over use of cane sugar.
I can understand using molasses, maybe even honey, but not CANE Sugar.
But anyways the additional ingredients are:
Bio Grow:
2% seaweed derived from Ascophyllum Nodassum and Laminaria Digitata
.2% Humic Acid from leonardite
1.5% Cane Sugar
.5% Glacial Rock Powder
Bio Bloom:
Same as Bio Grow
Most of the ingredients are from organic source.
Most of the ingredients are water soluable, which works great for water based feeding systems.
I have the full line in quarts, and I dropped close to $300.
But its works good. No complaints next.
I can understand using molasses, maybe even honey, but not CANE Sugar.
But anyways the additional ingredients are:
Bio Grow:
2% seaweed derived from Ascophyllum Nodassum and Laminaria Digitata
.2% Humic Acid from leonardite
1.5% Cane Sugar
.5% Glacial Rock Powder
Bio Bloom:
Same as Bio Grow
Most of the ingredients are from organic source.
Most of the ingredients are water soluable, which works great for water based feeding systems.
I have the full line in quarts, and I dropped close to $300.
But its works good. No complaints next.
S
staff11
For the people having early yellow issues, use the bio-grow the first week in flower along with the bio-root for the first 3-4 weeks(in flower) Also have you tried the heavy feeding? Haven't burned any plants by feeding the double rate so far, of course it's strain dependent.
The only bottles I use in this line are grow and bloo/v\ along with the bio-root.
The only bottles I use in this line are grow and bloo/v\ along with the bio-root.
Hmmm...looks very nice Tacoma.
yeah,i really like this line of nutes,easy to use,great results...they do stink,but thats organics for yah!
Acotaco
Member
I'm using these right now got the line sent for free hah 20$ shipping for all 8 bottles plus there nova and flora nova series score. Only issue I have is it's more complicated then some obviously not much but when I first ha them there was no feeding charts so I had to wing it. Oh also I have never burned them and iv done like double almost triple feedlots through veg. And some def stink more then others haha
thats funny,when i did find the feed chart using their rates it burned the crap outa my plants! now i just sorta wing it,lots of flexibility in the line,pretty easy to work with i find
I have used this line for one run and really like it. However I have a feeding schedule that recommends I don't change the PH. However I tried this and got major PH burn. I would recommend adjusting your PH for sure. I am gonna try not adjusting ph again on one plant this time and see if I get a different result but I doubt it. And this is even in Ocean Forest, which has plenty of buffers. Just like Earth Juice this stuff makes your PH crash right off the start. I mean as low as 3.5-4, this is to low to me, and I struggle to see how this could be good for my mycos, being PH sensitive and all. Especially with everything in this line being beneficial to mycos, it doesn't make sense.
thirst4knwledge
Member
next year!!
next year!!
I wish I would have found this thread a couple years ago. I'm about a week away from pulling my first plant, second year using the GO nutes. Last outdoor season, I fed with synthetic veg nutes and then picked up a bottle of thrive, grow and bud at my local hydro store (wish I knew they were still giving free samples back then). Nothing else besides that just some great natural soil and a couple bags of roots 707, water fed by hand with tap and watered from hose. Here are a couple shots of my plant last year...
So I used it on my plants this year, again no other parts of the GO line besides the basic grow, bloom, and bud (mostly due to money issues). This time around I used roots 707 again about 60/40 with sunshine mix#4. They got a rough start (ie not being transplanted when they should have, went in the ground late) but they've still turned out nice. Small but some super dank weed. I'm running all green crack hybrids grown from seed. 2 gc x pk, 2 gc x ogk, 1 gc x gdp, 1 gc x ww. Here are some pics from this season. Pulling the first ones soon.
I'll definitely be running this nutrient line again next year, only I'll have the entire line to work with plus i'll probably throw a couple other things in there (bud enhancer). I can almost guarantee they'll be monsters.
next year!!
I wish I would have found this thread a couple years ago. I'm about a week away from pulling my first plant, second year using the GO nutes. Last outdoor season, I fed with synthetic veg nutes and then picked up a bottle of thrive, grow and bud at my local hydro store (wish I knew they were still giving free samples back then). Nothing else besides that just some great natural soil and a couple bags of roots 707, water fed by hand with tap and watered from hose. Here are a couple shots of my plant last year...
So I used it on my plants this year, again no other parts of the GO line besides the basic grow, bloom, and bud (mostly due to money issues). This time around I used roots 707 again about 60/40 with sunshine mix#4. They got a rough start (ie not being transplanted when they should have, went in the ground late) but they've still turned out nice. Small but some super dank weed. I'm running all green crack hybrids grown from seed. 2 gc x pk, 2 gc x ogk, 1 gc x gdp, 1 gc x ww. Here are some pics from this season. Pulling the first ones soon.
I'll definitely be running this nutrient line again next year, only I'll have the entire line to work with plus i'll probably throw a couple other things in there (bud enhancer). I can almost guarantee they'll be monsters.
ThaLonelyStoner
Member
I am running my 3rd run with the samples I got last year, so far I have been more than happy with them. Before I was growing under an CFL but now I am using a HPS and other than using crappy soil on one plant they seem to be doing well. I do have a question though, do I need to use molasses with during flowering with GO? Also I am thinking of Foliar Feeding the plants some for their last 3 weeks what should I use? I have the whole line so I am thinking Black Diamond and Bio Weed? Thanks.
thirst4knwledge
Member
Do you need to use molasses? You could ask that question around this forum and get countless different answers. Based on the word "need" I would answer no, you don't. I used the GO line last year with nothing else and had fantastic results. In fact, I didn't even use the entire line, I only used the grow, bloom and biobud parts, three bottles and like I said, it worked out well. I'm using the same three parts this season, as well as plantation organic unsulphered blackstrap molasses and it's great. The molasses definitely helps but I wouldn't say that you need it. Noticeable differences include size, healthiness, availability of nutrients, smell and yeild. But my plant turned out great last year with no molasses and just those three bottles of GO
WiggleStar
New member
GO
GO
Hey everybody,
I've been using GO in different soil/soilless mixes for about two years now and I love the flavor and vigor, but it can do some tricky stuff. I've noticed the following things:
a. Use Molasses. Consider Floralicious Plus. Molasses, especially organic Blackstrap is packed with micros and very available carbohydrates and plenty of P and K. Plants love it.
b. If watering in amended soilless with <20% coco follow the feeding schedule, water with clean water every 1-2 waterings and things will be great, flush hard in the last few weeks of flower just like normal.
c. If watering in amended soilless with 20-60% coco follow the feeding schedule and add another 5-15% depending on how much/what brand coco you are using. Definitely use Molasses. Flowering transition fertilization is critical in these mixes as N gets depleted quickly by coco. For this reason I generally follow the feeding schedule as normal and then add 5mL/gallon "BioThrive Grow" through the 2nd week of flower for 6 week plants and through the 3rd week for 8-12 week plants. This helps stave off the yellowing that can occur.
d.I have also noticed that slightly 'overwatering' plants in coco mixes rarely stifles them and usually even when the soil is always either wet or moist they benefit from frequent watering.
e. Pure non-amended coco will almost definitely need Floralicious Plus. The same advice as coco mixes applies but in farther extremes. This mix will be easy to flush so don't be afraid to fertilize through the later points in flowering.
f. If using a reservoir, maintaining a water temperature below 65 is not an option, it's a must. This is a well fermented product and S.C.O.B.Y.'s will form even in the some of the darkest containers.
gee...I think that's all I've got for now.
GO
Hey everybody,
I've been using GO in different soil/soilless mixes for about two years now and I love the flavor and vigor, but it can do some tricky stuff. I've noticed the following things:
a. Use Molasses. Consider Floralicious Plus. Molasses, especially organic Blackstrap is packed with micros and very available carbohydrates and plenty of P and K. Plants love it.
b. If watering in amended soilless with <20% coco follow the feeding schedule, water with clean water every 1-2 waterings and things will be great, flush hard in the last few weeks of flower just like normal.
c. If watering in amended soilless with 20-60% coco follow the feeding schedule and add another 5-15% depending on how much/what brand coco you are using. Definitely use Molasses. Flowering transition fertilization is critical in these mixes as N gets depleted quickly by coco. For this reason I generally follow the feeding schedule as normal and then add 5mL/gallon "BioThrive Grow" through the 2nd week of flower for 6 week plants and through the 3rd week for 8-12 week plants. This helps stave off the yellowing that can occur.
d.I have also noticed that slightly 'overwatering' plants in coco mixes rarely stifles them and usually even when the soil is always either wet or moist they benefit from frequent watering.
e. Pure non-amended coco will almost definitely need Floralicious Plus. The same advice as coco mixes applies but in farther extremes. This mix will be easy to flush so don't be afraid to fertilize through the later points in flowering.
f. If using a reservoir, maintaining a water temperature below 65 is not an option, it's a must. This is a well fermented product and S.C.O.B.Y.'s will form even in the some of the darkest containers.
gee...I think that's all I've got for now.
IwannatokeNbone
Member
the grow box of this stuff for like 40 bucks is kind of dope but i looked at the feed chart last night and i was no way jose, its gotta make some intersting n tasty smoke though being so clean n vegan.
I've not had luck, maybe you can look at my thread and give me nutrient advise
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=200360
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=200360
