New Breaker switch or switches??

[mister c]

I need more juice, so I am thinking of putting a new 30 amp(or higher)circuit.

I need to be able to run 4 1000 watts(120v).

Any suggestions on how someone would do it if they needed 4 more lights.

The breaker box is full of open slots. I only have 1 20 amp circuit on it right now. So plenty of room....

Would you do a couple mediocre sized circuits or 1 big one.

And I am also real hazy on wiring an outlet to the box??

 

[Greenjag]

I always make a point of putting my lights on at least two seperate circuits. If one trips out then at least the plants don't go dark at an inappropriate time. Especially important if you leave your grow unattended for periods of a day or more during vegging.

I'd love to help you wire up your breaker box (it's pretty easy when you know how) but I'm not sure if UK standards are applicable to US (apart from the obvious voltage difference!). Post a pic of your box and I'll see if it's the same layout as ours.

Ps. It's 1am here now so I'll come back to this tomorrow.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

wiring a new circuit is really basic when you break it down. Safety first, cut the power off to the panel from the main breaker.

a 120 circuit: ground (bare wire) to ground bar, white to neutral, black to breaker.

a 220 circuit ground to ground bar, white to neutral, black to breaker, red to other side of breaker.

On the outlet itself, 110V ground to ground screw, nuetral to one screw, hot (black or red) to other screw.

On a 220 outlet ground to ground screw, and black to one screw, red to the other screw. Basically 220 uses two hots and no neutral on most circuits unless the device needs it.

When you run the wire out of the panel use a wire clamp so it doesnt rub on the sharp edge of the hole.

And if you have the room, and are running a new circuit, why not just run the lights on 220? Its just as easy

 

[testpilot]

If you're intent on doing your own wiring for whatever reason, an NEC code book can be helpful.

Er....If you're working on the main panel, even if you flip the top breaker OFF the two lugs at the top ARE STILL LIVE. Be careful working in there. To be safe you can cut service at the disconnect while working also.

This may or may not work for you, but I normally:
1. Select and mark outlet locations
2. Install exposed work boxes, cut/bend conduit. I use deep 4x4's with 10-2 wire.
3. Pull each run back to breaker panel
4. Wire outlet end, close up exposed work box
5. Flip the main breaker or disconnect service.
6. Add new breaker and wire in your outets to it

NOTES:
1. If you're using exposed work boxes, you will also be grounding the housing. Use either the provided dimple with a screw or get some ground clips. I attach a short 7-8in length pigtail to the housing and one to the ground terminal on the outlet then just twist together when installing.

2. The actual wiring will depend on whether you chose 3 or 4 wire outlets (choose based on your equipment). My equipment runs on three-wire so that's what I run. Yamaha_1fan described a 3-wire circuit above. 4 wire gives you 240V AND 120V with a ground.

3. A basic 240 is two 120's 90 degrees out of phase and a ground. If you look at an empty panel, you'll see the the red/black alternate down each side. Each represents a phase at 120V. The potential between the two phases ends up being 240. From either of those two to ground, you should see 120. A 240V breaker will normall be 2 poles and takes up two spots right next to each other (think black & red alternating, right?)

I'm rambling...it's kind of hard to describe it all. I suppose it may be easier to get your runs pulled, then check back in here before wiring in your outlets, then double check again before tying into the breaker if you're unsure of how to do this.

 

[testpilot]

Didn't realize you wanted 120V. Wiring is similar but you're referencing neutral (i.e. you only connect 1 wire to a hot leg, the other goes to the neutral bus.) for your 120, rather than another phase for 240.

Also, I forgot to mention. Polarity matters. Your outlets will probably have brass/silver/green screws. Generally, hot=brass, neutral=silver (I always forget though, so double check).

If you're running all 4 off the same circuit, you'll be connecting outlets together. Let me know, and I'll pull a faceplate off mine to show you the pigtails since it's easier than explaining.

 

[Guest]

I would run a 10 wire 2 pole 30A circuit to a WH40 timer and from their run 12 wire to 4 receptacles mounted in a box.Did I say I would?I meant I did.Thats what I'd do for 3 or 4 1K HID's

 

[mister c]

On a 120 (unfortunately)

When you guys say "white to neutral" is that the buss bar? Or???

And I bet you guys know how much this costs?? Fairly cheap I think?? ( 2, 30amps and 2, 4 plug outlets)

And last but not least what the fu!! is the work box? Is it the breaker box or an outlet?

 

[testpilot]

An exposed work box is the type you see in garages and shops. It's usually metal, and mounted to the surface rather than recessed and mounted to a stud. You can connect emt conduit (the metal tubes that run along the walls and ceilings) through the knockouts in the top/sides of the box.

When you guys say "white to neutral" is that the buss bar? Or???

One is a neutral bus and one is a ground. You'll probably see bare copper or green wires connected to the ground since there's already some wiring in there.

120V is 1 hot, 1 neutral and a ground.
3-wire 240V is 2 hots and a ground.
4-wire 240V is 2 hots, a neutral (as reference for 120V to either hot leg) and a ground.

And I bet you guys know how much this costs?? Fairly cheap I think?? ( 2, 30amps and 2, 4 plug outlets)

Wire is expensive.

 

[testpilot]

I would run a 10 wire 2 pole 30A circuit to a WH40 timer and from their run 12 wire to 4 receptacles mounted in a box.Did I say I would?I meant I did.Thats what I'd do for 3 or 4 1K HID's

If your ballasts can run on 240V, thats also an option. What he's saying is use 10-2 wire (10 gauge, 2 conductor, 1 ground = 3-wire 240V) and a 30A double pole breaker. Run directly into a timer and wire 15 or 20A 240V receptacles from the outputs of the timer. That way you run all 4 outlets from a single timer.