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My underground bunker, 2000w cooltube setup
- Thread starter BudBunker
- Start date
that spidermite product looks great.......i wouldn't wish spidermites upon my worst enemy they are one of the worst things that can happen.....the only thing worse would be a LEO infestation....hahahaha.....but not funny, really......take my wife, please......-gp
G
Guest
Very nice find on the spidermite juice, BB. I can say from expirience that the no-pest strips CAN rid the plants of mites...I would at least add them as a back-up. I always have at least two in the room as preventive measure.. Lookin good on the buds bro, can wait to see that G13 finished...peace.
BudBunker
Active member
900doses said:
See thats the problem with the strips. If I added them as a backup, the toxic levels wouldnt be high enough to kill them, because i am venting constantly(a must for me).
After not very long they would build tollerances to the chemical, and soon it wouldnt have any effect, even in large concentrations.
Not to mention that im in my growroom latley for around 8 hours of the day, and that stuff is very hazzardous to your health.
Peoiple also think that the strips dont leave any chemicals or residue on the buds. This is not true. The plants actually absorb the chemicals, and its harder to flush out than a spray. At least this is what I was told.
BudBunker
Active member
Day 48
Black licorice macro - this stuff is just COVERED in trichs. Smells like pineapple.
And yes I know there is a hermy in there. There is a couple on the black licorice, but non on any g13's
G13 macro- I am so very impressed with this strain. I took some late cuttings, hope they root. Look at the size of the calyx swelling.
Black licorice macro - this stuff is just COVERED in trichs. Smells like pineapple.
And yes I know there is a hermy in there. There is a couple on the black licorice, but non on any g13's
G13 macro- I am so very impressed with this strain. I took some late cuttings, hope they root. Look at the size of the calyx swelling.
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BudBunker
Active member
SHit. Found a couple of rotting buds. 5 small infections total on 2 differant plants. Today I am planning on starting the flush. I picked through alot of the buds peeling them apart and looking inside. Each one is only about a bowl of rotten weed, about an inch from the tip of the buds. I just cut the tops off of the infected buds.
How many days of flushing should I give them?
How many days of flushing should I give them?
dociron
Active member
BudBunker said:
My thought, only subjective,, ok?
I would flush now, and cut all nutes,,
your trichs appear cloudy now,, they will continue to ripen from here,
nutes or not, just my take on what I see,, if you have probs, then that's ok,
it's that time any ways. Total dark for 24-48 hours,, keep the fans running, dehumidifiers too,, hell,, even drain the buckets too, lol, they are done, brother, you done good.
all the best,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, dociron
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BudBunker
Active member
Started the flush this morning. I also put my dehumidifier In the growroom. I am not venting the warm exhaust from it, rather letting it heat the room. I also plugged in my 1000/1500 oil heater. Let em both run last night. They are still on now, I wlill check around noon if temps are getting too high. I also cut back on watering to only 1 time per 6 hours.
Are you sugesting cutting the lights now? I was thinking that it would take at least 3 days to flush them. I really dosed them up with Phosphorus last week.
What does the 24/48 hour dark period do? I have done it in the past but only because it was suggested.
Also my trainwreck needs another 2 weeks preferably. It looks like the budrot woudnt be able to set into it easily, its not dense like the g13. I gotta rig up a drying room, or a small area for the trainwreck to still get light.
What temps are optimal for drying?
Also, I wondering if the rot is able to continue infection during drying?
Are you sugesting cutting the lights now? I was thinking that it would take at least 3 days to flush them. I really dosed them up with Phosphorus last week.
What does the 24/48 hour dark period do? I have done it in the past but only because it was suggested.
Also my trainwreck needs another 2 weeks preferably. It looks like the budrot woudnt be able to set into it easily, its not dense like the g13. I gotta rig up a drying room, or a small area for the trainwreck to still get light.
What temps are optimal for drying?
Also, I wondering if the rot is able to continue infection during drying?
if you find any rot, remove it and a good chunk of unaffected tissuefrom around it..if you miss any it can spread through the lot-even when hanging...
Bud rot will spread while drying... all bud rot must be cut away and infected plants must be dried seperatly, also all rotten bud material must be taken far away and dumped/buried.
If i was you i would cut it all now before the real probs start, look at it this way: you have gained knowledge and experience and that is something you cant put a price on.
DO NOT CURE BUDS WITH BUD ROT!!!
GrowDoc
If i was you i would cut it all now before the real probs start, look at it this way: you have gained knowledge and experience and that is something you cant put a price on.
DO NOT CURE BUDS WITH BUD ROT!!!
GrowDoc
BudBunker
Active member
Ive considered cutting them, but i think i can push a couple more days. The infected plant is in the corner with almost void airflow. I put a new fan on the area, and a heater. I really want to get the ferty taste out. These plants are still very green, they could probably even go 2 more weeks.
Why trash the rotten stuff? I have been told by people at OG that the rotten stuff is good for bubblehash.
Im having a problem with the humidity. I cant get it below 50% lately. stays areound 65%, at 80f. It has been so wet outside, and my intake is only 4 feet from fresh air.
I think my problem is because I need to vent so much. After I cut them humidity shouldnt be a problem, My plan is to have my fans on a timer to go on for 15 minutes every hour or so. There will be a dehumidifier and a heater in the drying room.
Why trash the rotten stuff? I have been told by people at OG that the rotten stuff is good for bubblehash.
Im having a problem with the humidity. I cant get it below 50% lately. stays areound 65%, at 80f. It has been so wet outside, and my intake is only 4 feet from fresh air.
I think my problem is because I need to vent so much. After I cut them humidity shouldnt be a problem, My plan is to have my fans on a timer to go on for 15 minutes every hour or so. There will be a dehumidifier and a heater in the drying room.
I don't use my moldy bud for anything even the compost pile. Rotten or moldy bud probably shouldn't be used in hash making. Did you know that pathologists scraped aspergillus niger from the inside of a seventeen year old stoner's skull that had died prematurely?? I don't mess with it at all....
3legdog
Active member
hello
hello
Sorry to hear of the bit of mold, but you are growing underground & i can imagine the RH is steadaly high...just as you said. I run my flower room in the 60s rh all summer with no problems ...i just have several oscillating fans helping some & grow strains that are fairly mold resistant. I don't think my rh has dropped below 60% for at least the past 3 mos. & in the winter it goes down to 20-30%rh
. I sure enjoy grown' in the winter in the mountains . Lastly with a dehumidifier i doubt you will also need a heater of any sort since the exhaust from the dehumidifier will heat a small area up quite quick....this for your dryn' area.
I also wanted to add those pics are GReat & your macros are
.... no doubt very handy with the camera & thanks for sharing w/ us all. Take care 3ld
hello
Sorry to hear of the bit of mold, but you are growing underground & i can imagine the RH is steadaly high...just as you said. I run my flower room in the 60s rh all summer with no problems ...i just have several oscillating fans helping some & grow strains that are fairly mold resistant. I don't think my rh has dropped below 60% for at least the past 3 mos. & in the winter it goes down to 20-30%rh
. I sure enjoy grown' in the winter in the mountains . Lastly with a dehumidifier i doubt you will also need a heater of any sort since the exhaust from the dehumidifier will heat a small area up quite quick....this for your dryn' area.I also wanted to add those pics are GReat & your macros are
.... no doubt very handy with the camera & thanks for sharing w/ us all. Take care 3ld
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G
Guest
Perhaps a sulfur burner will help the mold prob on the next run / great room & your methods look sound with good looking results / thanks for the work involved in showing us you in action,
BudBunker
Active member
Thanks guys, and to clarify my last 2 posts;
I have my ventilation going 24/7. The timed exhaust was refering to after the grow, drying. It would seem if I let the dehumidifier work for a bit, then exchange the air on a timed basis, it would be alot dryer, instead of venting 24/7.
There wont be any lights on, so my guess is the humidity will try to raise even more.
Well today it seems no new mold has formed. I have checked well.
I have my ventilation going 24/7. The timed exhaust was refering to after the grow, drying. It would seem if I let the dehumidifier work for a bit, then exchange the air on a timed basis, it would be alot dryer, instead of venting 24/7.
There wont be any lights on, so my guess is the humidity will try to raise even more.
Well today it seems no new mold has formed. I have checked well.
