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My plants dont look too good
- Thread starter greencalyx
- Start date
75 in the day, 65 at night
Hillbilly69
Well-known member
What linde said, a good flush, transplant in fresh dirt, then feed-water-water-feed ect. Use your fertilizers recommended doses, make sure you add some cal mag with distilled water. Ideal water/nutrient mix PH in soil is actually around 6.3, so your not far off. Just watch that you don't over or under water, and just watch them kick out of it (they don't look terrible, they will come back from this). The new growth should start looking better.
Do you have any kelp extract? Mixing a little kelp with your plain water days can help bring them back.
Good luck!
Do you have any kelp extract? Mixing a little kelp with your plain water days can help bring them back.
Good luck!
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Ok I flushed them yesterday and will transplant tomorrow once they dry a bit.
So a bunch of the plants are really pale looking (looking N deficient) but also showing clawing leaves like N toxicity. How should I interpret this? I am already foliar feeding with Epsom salt for the mag deficiency, should I also add a bit of NPK to the spray? Or is this just really far progression of mag deficiency?
Here's an example. Looks much paler in person with the bottom leaves almost white from chlorosis, but even the new growth on top is very pale green
So a bunch of the plants are really pale looking (looking N deficient) but also showing clawing leaves like N toxicity. How should I interpret this? I am already foliar feeding with Epsom salt for the mag deficiency, should I also add a bit of NPK to the spray? Or is this just really far progression of mag deficiency?
Here's an example. Looks much paler in person with the bottom leaves almost white from chlorosis, but even the new growth on top is very pale green
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linde
Well-known member
They're definitely perking up. I'd remove those old bottom leaves and focus on your new growth. Those old leaves won't come back no matter what u give them. They won't bounce back to health over night I'd let them chill out til u transplant them and assess them then. Definitely an improvement already from what I can see.
Hillbilly69
Well-known member
As linde said, clean them old leaves up, transplant then give them a light feed of PH'ed nutrients. You'll have to baby them a little over next few weeks but they'll bounce back. Hold back on the foliar feed for a bit too. Starting to perk up already. The transplant will help...
No offense to anyone, however what I like to do is clear up the problem and let them outgrow the damaged leaves first.
The plant needs nitrogen, and removing older leaves only means the deficiency will move on to younger leaves.
After new growth overgrows them, you can removed them.
The plant needs nitrogen, and removing older leaves only means the deficiency will move on to younger leaves.
After new growth overgrows them, you can removed them.
Hillbilly69
Well-known member
Good point TM, should clarify that only the dead, shriveled leaves shoul be cleaned up. Nothing that still has any green on it. There was mention that some leaves were white, not much nutrients left in those, all they are doing is sucking up water...
linde
Well-known member
I disagree burnt yellow leaves don't photosynthesize. They are dead. Remove them
Ca++
Well-known member
The idea of wet and dry, is black and white, with no grey area. It elicits an almost digital decision making response. Where one's preconceptions of dry, comes from summer days and fresh towels. It's more accurate to say we buy compost in a dry state. A state where it's ready to be watered. We may see the surface get drier as we wait for the greater bulk of our plant pot to get to this dry state. However, it's not towel dry we are looking for. In towel terms, it's still damp.
If you are spending time in this dry state, then you make transporting some important things difficult. Some of which are just washed along on the tide. Things you may of fed, can loose interest in staying soluble if the water leaves. Soil has a good cec, so shit stucks, and can displace lesser sticky shit. The roots are doing their best to get water, when you add an abundance. Unstuck shit and your fresh feed go rushing in through open flood gates, and collapse is common.
What they will like, is proper water management, with a basic feed. No amendments, as that is just straying from the path.
Often its nice to fill a pot with fresh compost, and weigh it. Then the scales can tell you when to water again. No green fingers required. Just procedure. Writing stuff down, opens doors. If you know dry weight and wet weight, then every day you can see the weight they drank. Knowing this, you can feed a days worth of water. This is very useful to know when potting up or working with sick plants. There is little worse than giving a plant a few days worth of water in one go. They can stall, as the water looses it's oxygen. Equally, knowing a days worth of water, means you won't come to them over-dry.
Where green fingers are failing, a scientific approach offers another chance. I personally favour weighing, over testing my skills.
If you are spending time in this dry state, then you make transporting some important things difficult. Some of which are just washed along on the tide. Things you may of fed, can loose interest in staying soluble if the water leaves. Soil has a good cec, so shit stucks, and can displace lesser sticky shit. The roots are doing their best to get water, when you add an abundance. Unstuck shit and your fresh feed go rushing in through open flood gates, and collapse is common.
What they will like, is proper water management, with a basic feed. No amendments, as that is just straying from the path.
Often its nice to fill a pot with fresh compost, and weigh it. Then the scales can tell you when to water again. No green fingers required. Just procedure. Writing stuff down, opens doors. If you know dry weight and wet weight, then every day you can see the weight they drank. Knowing this, you can feed a days worth of water. This is very useful to know when potting up or working with sick plants. There is little worse than giving a plant a few days worth of water in one go. They can stall, as the water looses it's oxygen. Equally, knowing a days worth of water, means you won't come to them over-dry.
Where green fingers are failing, a scientific approach offers another chance. I personally favour weighing, over testing my skills.
Hillbilly69
Well-known member
Well said Ca++, I only water by weight, takes a while to get the hang of it, but when you do plants love it.
True, however as long as they're not falling off, the plant is still taking nutrients from them. If there's even a tinge of green to them, there are still nutrients in there the plant can use.
This is the thing with mobile nutrient deficiencies, they'll keep on going until they're resolved or all the leaves are gone.
BTW a major cause of plant distress/death is doing too much, and not letting it sort out it's problems without interference. The biggest thing we can do is create the right environment (medium, air, moissture, etc.) for the plant to grow in and then step aside.
This leaf death is a natural reaction by the plants' systems, reallocating nitrogen to the growing parts of the plant, until it once again can take up nitrogen from the air (NO3) or the medium (higher pH).
However much it pains the grower to look at it.
linde
Well-known member
Each to their own. Everybody has different techniques. I'm not criticizing your growing styles. I'm simply stating what works best for me.... carry on!True, however as long as they're not falling off, the plant is still taking nutrients from them. If there's even a tinge of green to them, there are still nutrients in there the plant can use.
This is the thing with mobile nutrient deficiencies, they'll keep on going until they're resolved or all the leaves are gone.
BTW a major cause of plant distress/death is doing too much, and not letting it sort out it's problems without interference. The biggest thing we can do is create the right environment (medium, air, moissture, etc.) for the plant to grow in and then step aside.
This leaf death is a natural reaction by the plants' systems, reallocating nitrogen to the growing parts of the plant, until it once again can take up nitrogen from the air (NO3) or the medium (higher pH).
However much it pains the grower to look at it.
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jackspratt61
Active member
Show us the roots if you can?
I can show pics of the rootball once i transplant later today
For now, the soil is pretty dry again. Drier than I was expecting. I may have to give them another little sip before I transplant to help hold things together.
I planted in two nursery pots stacked with Mason jar rings between as spacers, and the drainage holes offset to keep soil from leaking out.
Anyway, I took a few of those pots apart for the first time, and here's how the drainage holes look. And that is one of the smaller plants.
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Hillbilly69
Well-known member
Those babies were root bound, they'll be happy about the transplant! Roots are a good color so it certainly wasn't root rot from over watering. Keep up what your doing and they'll come around...
