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Most effective synthetic insecticide

Chunkypigs

passing the gas
Veteran
I grow outdoors in upstate NY about as close to wilderness as you can get with heavy pest pressures in general but they never take much of my crop, mostly just chewing up some fan leaves during veg.

insects control other insects in a natural spot and then there are other creatures also controlling the insects like birds and frogs etc.

plant in narrow plots, cages around your plants give birds a place to perch and they will clean house.

I only spray indoors as a last resort to save moms, once my plants go outside they are cleaned up by nature and I've only lost one big plant to whiteflies a few years ago, buds were full of them at harvest but they only hit the blue dream.

I don't use any sprays for bugs or mold outdoors, I control plant heath with soil tests and proper element targets.

place saucers with water through your patch and you won't need to kill rodents either, they chew plants to access moisture, not to get high or eat salad.

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SKVA, Josh, SFV, ECSD.JPG


92 OG Kush

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Mac 1

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Cherry Pie


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Forum Cookies

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OK the Chem 91 had a couple bugs fukkin' not worth spraying for tho...

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mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
I got the borg from strainly clone seller, 2 spot spider mites that were hardened in Colorado warehouses and immune to everything. Just lost thousands of dollars worth of top shelf genetics after 7 month battle. Went back and forth between fighting them and fighting mold from all the spraying. At the end in 5 X 5 tent had 2 no pest strips for 4 days and they were still running around. Going to bug bomb rooms a few times then release predatory mites when I start up again in a month or so.
Loc dog...listen, of your every dealing with mites especially super mites ( built up immunity red mites)....its expensive but this will smoke there ass...FORBID 4F from bayer, now after this application theyvwill be gone. BUT larvae/eggs will still be active, thus, will come back, day after FORBID 4F You want an avacide, a real avacide, and the problem gone my friend. I feel your pain, i had some dos si dos 33 i was running, found a pheno that had a rare triat of growing 2 mains...so it tops itself out the gate....well had many of clones and original ...red dots tookem down...and i took a major loss. Forbid .....8 0z is like nearly 300.00 but its very effective. Most effective miticde ive ever seen. Sorry for your loss dude.

To the new york guy, very nice indeed my friend. What size holes are in that second pic.

And wow...92 OG? Oh yes, now those are genetics. Nice work
 

Chunkypigs

passing the gas
Veteran
1/2 oz of micronized sulfur per gallon water works great also and won't hurt the person spraying it.

keep your kush clean.

Chem D

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ECSD

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OG Kush

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Headband

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bugs everywhere but they won't destroy your crop outside, they only take a little bite...

SFV OGK

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gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
mountain outlaw. Bugs will definitely attack weak plants more so then healthy plants. Fact. but certain plants almost seem to be a magnet to bugs. Bugs are also opportunists, so a meal is a meal. So with that said a healthy plant will be harder for some sucking insects to break thru the leaf surface. it is also said that super healthy plants with a high brix level deter sucking insects. it has also been said that higher brix leaf sap/ juice can also become toxic to certain sucking pests. the amount of nutrient in the sap is to much for certain bugs to digest and or becomes ovewhelming. So get the plants heatlhy an keep them healthy.

if you got bug runners that travel the plant stalk use tangle foot on the base of the stem. some bugs travel the stalk feed during the day , go back to soil at night or to lay eggs.
to dry out.

M-Pede is a great insecticidal soap that will dry the bugs exoskelton, crack and dry or bleed out. It will dry out live eggs. the high potassium after the bug digests the leaf tissue is said to cause major disruption in the intestinal tract an often kill the bug. M-pede will also suffocate bugs, spores an hyphae. it will temporarily change the ph of the leaf surface to deter fungi from growing.

If you choose a systemic product, try to foliar and not water in. in some of the research ive read watering in tends to have a significantly longer half life of the chemical. also maybe spray at night to deter spraying any beneficial insects.

targeting an insect with a biofungicide is a helpful approach too
 
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mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
Well you said a load there..because i believe it....listen to this...been observing.

ANY skunk , afghan genetic i got...they BARELY touch....now got some heavy kush genetics and thats the ones they DECIMATE...i even put a few cucumber seedlibg and peppers beside the infested ones...they didnt even touch the vegtables, i tell ya friend...i been growing a while, and firther down south it was always spider mites you had to battle....up here in these mountains and hollars, the aphids are out of control....my compost pile is full of em..which im making thread on .

My big plant mix is clean so im taking strongest of what i got left from this group, gently ( im like a surgeon transplanting) washing roots in a solution of some sort and replanting in there final homes in the big mix...then gonna lightly treat with a light rinse and a very light foilar.

Sending word to order M-pede now. Thabks for the time you took my friend.
Mountaonoutlaw -out
 

mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
Also done a medium drench with neem extract (double dose) and didnt flush..let it sit....now seems to have significantly reduced juvenile population , but adults were not affected....im gonna go Imid route on this but i want just Imid....most widely available products have imid (at very low levels...very low) and other chems i dont need....gotta use bayer but bayer instecticides aint cheap, but ....you gotta pay for the right stuff these days.

I got 2 more groups , so im hoping i can not imid those, but Imid at lower concentrstjons is ok during early veg. I jist gotta get em under control before flower as i dont chem any of flowers only veg...anynways...gonna be a rough season but we gone prevail, usually do.

Also got something im gonna spray surronding brush, but not inside plots, try to do some population control....
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
frequent applications of spinosad every 5 days or so can really knock down spider mites. but you gotta reapply every 3-5 days till u get the ones u missed or just hatched. trick is to interupt their reproductive cycle. when plants are smaller i make solution in a bucket of m-pede and dunk the plants.
 
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44:86N

Active member
Conserve (Spinosad) works great on thrips, too.

For all-out control on insects, TriStar®8.5 SL insecticide --- translaminar, systemic, broad spectrum.

Mites: Judo, also translaminar and systemic, hits many species of mites.
 

mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
Well the root aphids and flies won, group 1 is gone, i decided pull plug on em...

Used some neem drench which looked like it reduced numbers...then dia earth, plants showing even more signs of typical root damage symptoms.

Soon as a watered , and the dia earth washed away....within second flies swarmed the each plants right there in front of me
..never seen anything like it....too many of em back here and too dense forest surronding i guess.

Got to re evaluate
 

Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Pylon is the answer to mites and thrips. They make a foliar as well as a fogger. I always run a pylon fogger before i bring material into a new space. Never used the foliar. Havent seen a mite, thrip, or aphid in many many years using the foggers preventatively.
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
Well the root aphids and flies won, group 1 is gone, i decided pull plug on em...

Used some neem drench which looked like it reduced numbers...then dia earth, plants showing even more signs of typical root damage symptoms.

Soon as a watered , and the dia earth washed away....within second flies swarmed the each plants right there in front of me
..never seen anything like it....too many of em back here and too dense forest surronding i guess.

Got to re evaluate
Is your location very hot and dry, I have never had pest problems like this outdoors, definitely never in veg?
 

SolarLogos

Well-known member
I know prevention is not the answer to the question you are asking, but last year I had an oleander bush I cut down and apparently didn't get all of the roots and new shoots came up at the beginning of my outdoor season. The tender new shoots were immediately covered in aphids the entire grow season. I had 100 plants in pots on my back patio, starting just 4 feet from the infested young oleander. I did not get a single aphid on my plants.

Put out decoy plants that mites or aphids prefer more than cannabis.
Best of luck my friend
SL
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
Im being preventive and using some light neem oil sprays and pyrthem .

But say all hell broke loose and you had to choose your go to all around most effective synthetic...what would it be?

Malathion..triazicide, permthin, ortho 3 in 1, or perhaps something not mass marketed. Please, im all ears
Use 100% inorganic nutes and medium, clean everything including the tent/room with bleach in between runs and you should never see a bug in your grow.


Organic grows 9 times out of 10 use some kind of insecticide.
 

CannaT

starin' at the world through my rearview
Outdoor grow is outdoor grow the best you can is pray to Lord for good weather and thats it.
Every commercial crop that is grown outdoors is dipped in various chems from daily food to Cannabis.
If not its home,shelter or food source for various bugs and pets.
Thats the way it is....

While growing outdoors before good hack is to put bigger water source somwhere between plants
some barrel or something like that.

It will attract all kind of various animals.
But down side of this is that will also tract other big animals like deers and goats,wild boar...so its good to protect some plants white some spiky wire.

Also hummanoid thiefs are worst animals of all.
Only AK than help there is no other pesticide for that. 🙃

Indoors for larger scale no 1 is keep it clean.
And second I was doing preventive foliar vertimec(Abamectin)
when I put clones in flower I turn all off fans sprey all plants and room.
Than just turn on fans for 48h...and after 48h I start flowering and turn lights on.
And keep rooms clean...general cleaning with bleach and detergents after every cycle..everything.
Never had any issue with pets ever.
 
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mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
Finally some good replies, i appreciate it fellas and dually noted. I got some Imid for the gnats and aphids....gonna send word for pylon....group 2 is gonna make it damn it,!

Biscotti Mint
Afghan x skunk #1
Afghan x skunk x mexican sativa
White widow x haze
Critical mass

I got soil prepped and sun baked...done majjor perimeter spray and then another one,

All soil that was used for group 1 is quarantined at the moment and subject to fire.

I got a few og cheese and white widow im about to save. Gonna gently wash roots and dunk in peroxide solution...then in water solution...then in baccilius from southern ag garden friendly fungicide....then they go to new 20 gallon fabric pots with new soil. They were suppose to go to 30 gal, but thats reserved for champions.
 

mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
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Gonna try save some of these....
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This here ak48 been through hell notice brown spotting...the first top inches of soil looks clear, the little bastards moved deeper
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The og cheese are still holding out but stunted ...gonna do surgery, and see whats all at bottom of root ball. I also got southern ag pyrenthin to hit bottom of leaves...
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
View attachment 18850015
Gonna try save some of these....
View attachment 18850020
This here ak48 been through hell notice brown spotting...the first top inches of soil looks clear, the little bastards moved deeper
View attachment 18850021
The og cheese are still holding out but stunted ...gonna do surgery, and see whats all at bottom of root ball. I also got southern ag pyrenthin to hit bottom of leaves...
Keep us posted. We are learning from you friend.
 

mountainoutlaw

Well-known member
Scientific testing, mountain man style. Here we have soil termites and some aphids....
Jar one...old school dursban , banned in 2001. Jar two..good ole Imidacloprid at 1.47% gonna use a mere 5ml per gallon. (Same stuff in frontline for dogs, actually made from nicotine)
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