LOL OK ! I guess I'm relying on the Potassium content being beneficial more than the sugars.
If you were to use it, would you spray it on the buds or mix it in the water for the roots?
Any info on supplying it to the Male plants too ?
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Molasses ~ When & Why ?
- Thread starter Wildlifer69
- Start date
LOL OK ! I guess I'm relying on the Potassium content being beneficial more than the sugars.
If you were to use it, would you spray it on the buds or mix it in the water for the roots?
Any info on supplying it to the Male plants too ?
Owl Mirror
I apply molasses at the rate of 1 tsp. per gallon along with fish hydrosylate and seaweed extract once a week as a foliar application. I do the same as a soil drench once every 4 waterings.
In aerated compost teas where I'm trying to grow fungai to facilitate the uptake of phosphorous vs. growing bacteria (who love carbohydrates) the application of molasses is about 1/2 tsp. per gallon.
HTH
CC
I apply molasses at the rate of 1 tsp. per gallon along with fish hydrosylate and seaweed extract once a week as a foliar application. I do the same as a soil drench once every 4 waterings.
In aerated compost teas where I'm trying to grow fungai to facilitate the uptake of phosphorous vs. growing bacteria (who love carbohydrates) the application of molasses is about 1/2 tsp. per gallon.
HTH
CC
Owl Mirror
If it's potassium that you're looking for there are better solutions than molasses. Kelp meal is a far better.
1/4 cup kelp meal tea in 5-gallons of water. Aerate for a day or so and apply both as a foliar application as well as a soil drench.
Check out the N-P-K (*snerk*) of the 2 products.
HTH
CC
If it's potassium that you're looking for there are better solutions than molasses. Kelp meal is a far better.
1/4 cup kelp meal tea in 5-gallons of water. Aerate for a day or so and apply both as a foliar application as well as a soil drench.
Check out the N-P-K (*snerk*) of the 2 products.
HTH
CC
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I can't tell how experienced you are. If your competent and have folier sprayed before go right ahead. But if you are not be careful of all the pitfalls like mold and burn. You need good ventilation, low temps, good humidy control.
Best left to the soil aplication. The sugars are not absorbed by the roots. They feed the soil microbes and make the nutrients more readily available to be absorbed. (short version)
1 tsp/gal with nutrients.
Billy Burroughs
Member
i use it at day 30 2 TBS per gallon and my few other nutes and carbs then do it again on day 45 after day 45 i water with nothing but molasses and water the molasses and water is kinda my flush beings im in dirt doin true organics really no need for a hardcore flush IMO
Thanks everyone, I'm not very experienced so I'll stick with using it in my watering can.
What I have done with my biggest plant is to pour one 2 liter bottle of clear water then, the second two liter I have mixed with 1 TBS and pour on the soil. I feel this allows the soil to become wet first, before adding the second with the molasses.
Is it beneficial to give this to a Male plant?
I just found a good male I will allow to grow and create pollen.
Would this help it grow better or should I only give it clear water ?
What I have done with my biggest plant is to pour one 2 liter bottle of clear water then, the second two liter I have mixed with 1 TBS and pour on the soil. I feel this allows the soil to become wet first, before adding the second with the molasses.
Is it beneficial to give this to a Male plant?
I just found a good male I will allow to grow and create pollen.
Would this help it grow better or should I only give it clear water ?
Isolate that male unless you want a lot of seeds, remember polen will be transported on your shoes and clothes and in the wind. It will find your females from a mile away.
As posted before this site has a good discussion on molasses and sugars.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=130839
When using molasses any brand is ok but make sure it is black strap.
I see no need to water twice, just diluting everything. mix your nuts and sugars and ph and water when your pots are drying out. get an idea of how dry they are by picking up your pots and judge by weigth.
Yeah - but N-P-K in the area of organics isn't what many people think that it is.
But that's a topic for an entire thread.
CC
this may be helpful/interesting:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=117375&highlight=foliar+feeding+flowering
Foliar feeding in flowering
the particular molasses used contains 730mg of potassium + calcium. calcium is difficult to translocated in plants, at times. potassium can be used quickly too, during flowering.
ph 7.0 influences opening of stomata, along w/ low temps, low c02, low light, and low vpd (high rh). the high rh applied thru spray itself.
ppm>250. can go up to 500, but save that for gh kool bloom foliar @ week 6... actually just cut root feed (~1000 ppm, ph 6.0-6.2) w/ water, to get 250 ppm, ph 7.0-8.0, and spray couple times per wk.
usually spray as soon as light comes on. this is also time of lowest water uptake. very easy to influence plant @ critical time of ~1-2 hrs after lights on. thats when they register diff, root moisture, ambient temps, etc.
in imaginary garden, use couple drops of unscented baby oil (per 32oz sprayer)as surfacant.
periodically use pro-tekt (potassium silicate) as foliar. primarily as stock strengthener and as pest prevention. they dont like silica...
yes, spray actual fruit... they can handle it as long as air flow is @ maximum. ideally, this means that if a lighter is lit in garden, wind will blow it out. does not mean that air is directly on plants. is laminate+turbulent air flow, like in cleanroom. all moisture on plants should be gone in >5 minutes after full 32oz of spray used. that is this standard. here, is 2 mins...
the fruit does not suffer, as long as voracious air circulation+dehumidification. they need 20% oxygen just like they need c02. rain occurs lots in nature; doesnt just up and kill outdorr plants. may be acid rain too...
gardeners seem to coddle plants. here, they get ran thru tons of experiments. the mums that thrive could probably make it to mars and take over!
theyll be fine w/ foliar up to wk 6. they love the kool bloom [liquid 0-10-10] foliar. instant flower swell+no n to get in way...
hope this helps. enjoy your garden!
Thanks Mistress, very helpful
Johnny Rotten
Member
Owl, P is not potassium, it is phosphorous. K is potassium, and it should be 1-0-4 for kelp meal. Kelp is the shiz. Leave the molasses for the end of flowering.
Thanks, I knew I shouldn't be getting stoned during science class ;>}
So during flowering you do not want Nitrogen or Phosphorous.
Would using 0-0-46 in an extremely diluted wash be more beneficial ?
I bought a small bag of that and soak about a dozen of the nodules in my water overnight.
Then swish it around and suspend the portions which have dissolved off them.
I'll soon be getting a gift certificate which I can use to buy some of this Kelp.
5 bottles per 115g
My bottle reads: Serving size: 1 tablespoon (15 ml), servings per container: 24
355 ml divided by 15 ml = 24 tablespoons
1 Tablespoon [US] = 3 Teaspoon [US]
3 x 24 = 72 teaspoons
If you have 115 gal., that would only be 1.59 bottles.
I paid $3.29 for one bottle, seems like a reasonable amount to invest.
I broke it down above so you wouldn't overload your system with 4 times the amount suggested.
Oh thank you very much! I thought your bottle read 1 tsp per gallon, my mistake! Yeah I buy a couple bottles every trip to the grocery store, so I don't end up buying ten at a time or anything wacky lookin.
Oh thank you very much! I thought your bottle read 1 tsp per gallon, my mistake! Yeah I buy a couple bottles every trip to the grocery store, so I don't end up buying ten at a time or anything wacky lookin.
Oh thank y
no problem, just didn't want you to end up with a vat of syrup ;>}
btw, I like your avatar !
Hehe thanks bro, that's my old hippy stepdad's pin on my roomates boob! Suited me pretty well
A better serving for the plant is 1tsp/gal. 1tbs/gal is three time that amount and really unneeded, IMO.
It also is beneficial to the plant through all stages, as it helps all nutrient uptake.
It also is beneficial to the plant through all stages, as it helps all nutrient uptake.
I'm agree with HD use it for entire growth begining to end.
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