I recently went through all of this including the confusion. I was interested in a 4 light timer by green-air that advertised it ran 4 1000 watt light @ 120 on a 40 amp breaker. I was bewildered that they would push it that high on the 80% rule, it took me a while to grasp. I had the timer wired in on a single pole 40 amp breaker with 8-3 wire, junction box in the middle and grounded. It works great! All lights going on and off smooth as butter. I am guessing something in the timer makes it worth $325. When turnign on they all turn on at the same time but during bulb warmup you can tell there was a small delay.
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JefersonAirplan
Member
I have 1200 watts of lights and a 5000btu a/c on, 2 fans, and 2 water pumps, all on a 20 amp circuit. You will be fine just on 20amps.
D
dongle69
Okay so by "they" you mean you, right?
Why didn't you just say that nowirenuts was you, like in another thread I was reading?
Certainly you can't be the only person or company on earth that can provide a proper custom lighting controller.
To say that it will never fail is a bit impossible as well.
I'm glad that you can provide quality work, but you aren't the only one.
Even the "cheap" controllers can work well.
What CAP controllers have you run and what problems did you have?
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I am not sure why you guys need these controllers in the first place. I have used the Intermatic or Dayton metal water heater 40 amp timers for many years and they work perfect. I use the mechanical timers but they also make the digital ones. You can install as many receptacles as you need.
Its the same or similar as what we used to install on commercial jobs... Total cost - 60 to 80 bucks. I'll put up a picture if interested.
If you wanted to use a specific digital timer then I could understand....
Its the same or similar as what we used to install on commercial jobs... Total cost - 60 to 80 bucks. I'll put up a picture if interested.
If you wanted to use a specific digital timer then I could understand....
S
sparkjumper
Thanks Ventura,the WH40 is the best timer to use.And not all cap is crap,I've used my PPM-3 for over 2 years without problems.And contacts making a "slapping" sound is totally normal and not an indication of cheap or faulty equiptment haha.What noise do you expect them to make when the contacts close?
Danknuggler
Active member
Please explain how this will work for me having a 30 amp dryer oulet to work with?
I used a MLC-4 with 4KW (240V) no problem on a 30-amp circuit, now I'm using 8 1KW 240 lights on an MLC-8T and a 50-amp circuit, have neve3r had a problem with either. The 4 light unit I ran for 4 years straight without a hiccup, and I've been on the 8-light model for almost a year with no problems either.
GorillaGrower
Member
I'm not even close to knowing how to find an electrician.. much less being one.. but to try and answer your all s question to the 80% rule. When you use a loadcenter that has contactors.. the circuit that is made with the lights is considered a different type and then doesn't fall underneath the 80% rule. I think.. "think" it is called an intermittent circuit.
And as far as the slap of the contactors.. just because a loadcenter makes a minor sound twice a day. doesnt mean that mechanical contactors are crap. Doesn't your room have like twelve things makin noise too?
And as far as the slap of the contactors.. just because a loadcenter makes a minor sound twice a day. doesnt mean that mechanical contactors are crap. Doesn't your room have like twelve things makin noise too?
Well the 80% rule is for continuous use, which I believe is anything over 30 minutes of duty. The overall load however is typically tied directly to a single 240V breaker, so it all counts in one way or another. The only things that are intermittent in my room are waterpumps and air conditioners, everything else is on 24X7 so it's vastly continuous usage.
If you can't get a new circuit out of your electrical panel, which is what would be preferred, then you could just run your wire from the dryer outlet to the room where the timer is needed. Your amps is limited by whatever circuit breakers you are using and the wiring. Look in the panel to see what the breakers are for the dryer outlet. You are limited doing it this way to 240 volts only...
30 amps at 240 volts - (10-2 romex wire with ground)
Turn off the breaker first, make sure it is off before you connect the wire to the dryer outlet, do that last after the timer is finished. No chance to get shocked that way...
Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaHwy View Post
I am not sure why you guys need these controllers in the first place. I have used the Intermatic or Dayton metal water heater 40 amp timers for many years and they work perfect. I use the mechanical timers but they also make the digital ones. You can install as many receptacles as you need.
Its the same or similar as what we used to install on commercial jobs... Total cost - 60 to 80 bucks. I'll put up a picture if interested.
If you wanted to use a specific digital timer then I could understand....
Ventura I do exactly what you do - install outlets exactly where I want them, run them back to a trusty commercial grade Intermatic which is then connected to the power source. Cheap, reliable and easy IF you are a professional electrician or have access to one. But I believe these pre-made, and expensive, units are perhaps the best option for the folks who need plug-and-play gear.
T
Teeg420
Sparky101 stop spamming in my thread.
Called the hydro shop and they said "oh sorry if we didn't warn you ahead of time, yea you should run a 50 amp breaker and 6/2 wire.
I also have a litte grey box water heater timer, it says 40 amp max was wondering if i put a 50 amp breaker and bigger wire will the relay be able to handle 8k or will something catch on fire?
What are the max loads those contactors can handle?
Called the hydro shop and they said "oh sorry if we didn't warn you ahead of time, yea you should run a 50 amp breaker and 6/2 wire.
I also have a litte grey box water heater timer, it says 40 amp max was wondering if i put a 50 amp breaker and bigger wire will the relay be able to handle 8k or will something catch on fire?
What are the max loads those contactors can handle?
fsttimes81
Member
Funny was just looking at this thread because it is weird these boxes have no neutral?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/search.php?searchid=8334748
http://www.icmag.com/ic/search.php?searchid=8334748
