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Mk2 GTi

White Tee

Member
So just kicked off my second grow, have gone from seed this time, went with some Fast Nevilles from female seeds

Here they are 12 days from when they surfaced:-

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Sowed them in Westlands seed and cutting compost with some perlite mixed in. Didnt bother pre-soaking them, but still got 4 out of 5 to sprout (was after 4 plants, so it worked out ok)

Im changing the nutes im using this time, ive got my hands on some Bio Vega and Bio Flores from canna. Have got some mycorrhizal fungi working its way to me in the post (its called Vaminoc, anyone ever heard of it?), along with some rapadura sugar (in place of molasses) and some Maxicrop liquid seaweed

Im thinking probably feed the rapadura and Maxicrop at low doses once a week up until maybe week 3 of flower before increasing it gradually up unitil flush. Then again, ive read some like to flush with molasses, so i still unsure. Any advice here would be more than welcome

All they have been fed so far is a quater strength feed of the Bio Vega (today)

Also, im gonna try and do a scrog this time, ive read that these Nevilles like to reach for the skies a little bit, so im going to have to try and brush up on my training skills a bit

wish me luck
 

White Tee

Member
Trapslanted into slightly bigger pots today, added some of the Vaminoc and watered in with a half strength Maxicrop and water mix

I was suprised to see the difference in the size of the rootballs, the two smaller plants were only around walnut sized whereas the two bigger ones were already touching the bottom of the pot. No idea why, the smaller ones only surfaced a day later than the other two

Also noticed that the two little round starter leaves have turned yellow on all of the plants now, is that normal?
 

stonedar

Macro-aggressor
Veteran
I'd wait til next watering, then start in with your feeding. the little round starter leaves feed the plant, when they are out of sugars/nutes they turn yellow and fall off. So will the lower leaves if you don't feed them eventually.

I not familiar with your brand of soil mix but since it says "seed and cutting" in the name chances are it won't have much starter fertilizer in it.

Like I said previously next watering I'd start in with some low dose fertilizer. you are going organic from a bottle, from a nute line that I've seen very few people use online or in real life. If it were me with no one to ask I'd try whatever Canna recommends you do as far as dosage and adjust from what the plants tell you.
 

White Tee

Member
..thanks for the info..

...do you think i should maybe go for half-strength next time, see how they go, then go full strength after or jump straight in with the full amount?

Im still a bit wary of frying them
 

stonedar

Macro-aggressor
Veteran
I have no idea, does Canna give detailed instructions for plants in different stages of growth or does it just say put X ml/L water?
if they give different amounts for different stages of growth I'd probably try what they recommend. if not I'd do like you said go weak.

there is a thread on icmag about your nutes, no one in that thread has a clue either.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=99402
 

White Tee

Member
Well, tending my plants over Christmas has been a right bollock ache. Finally managed to get some time alone with the girls last night to do some work and take some pics.

I repotted up into too smaller sized pots last time really, I knew it as I was doing it but couldnt be arsed to go buy some bigger ones, oh well

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Still can't get over the size difference, I suppose that's the difference between seed and clones, hope this isn't going to get in the way of my scrog ambitions

Speaking of scrog, do u think my scrog pots are gonna work? Have still to get some mesh for the top but I'm fairly pleased with them, they should do the job anyway (they'd f*kin better the time it took me to make em!)

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stonedar

Macro-aggressor
Veteran
looks great, I'm impatient I'd have to lower those screens. maybe put some bricks under the short pots...

I wouldn't think that would be enough passive intake, do you intend to drill more holes?
 

White Tee

Member
The intake is a bit ropey, but its not as bad as it looks in the picture. The holes increase in size towards the back of the cab, I did this as my intake is at the front of the lower chamber and I wanted to try to keep the airflow even across the cab. My mistake was not factoring in that it was technically a 2 chamber system, but its ok for now.

Thought about setting the screens lower but was scared of not being able to get under them to do maintanance, but now I'm worried that when I flip they're gonna use them screens as a lauchpad to try to break through the roof. Think I'm gonna try topping them, hopefully that will slow em down a bit.

When is best to top when scrogging?
 

White Tee

Member
So they have just completed four weeks now and im running into a couple of problems.

Firstly, even though ive now proped her up a bit, the little runt is still lagging behind the others, who are already at the bottom of the screen now. I was thinking maybe if I let them keep growing until the runt reaches the screen then top them all, taking 1 node off the runt, and however many off the other 3 to bring them down to the top of the screen, do you think that would work?

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Secondly, theres the health of my plants, they're starting to look a bit sickly

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Any ideas on what this might be?

I was thinking either too much/little N or maybe a Mg def?

Your thoughts are appreciated
 

White Tee

Member
...nobody have any ideas what might be causing this then?

Had exactly the same problem with my last grow, lower leaves always yellowing from the tips back before dying and dropping off, which got worse the further into flower they got

Could it be something to do with my water? Think we have fairly hard water here, and wondered if this might have something to do with it?

Found this about my water, dunno if it will mean anything to anyone here -


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Analysis) (Typical Value) (UK/European Limit) (Units)
Hardness Level Hard No Standard Applies
Hardness Clark 14 No Standard Applies Degrees Clark
Hardness French 20 No Standard Applies French Degrees
Hardness German 11 No Standard Applies German Degrees
Aluminium 10.46 200 μgAl/l
Chloride 49.15 250 mgCl/l
Chlorine 0.29 No Standard Applies mg/l
Coliform bacteria 0 0 no./100ml
Colour 0.93 20 mg/l Pt/Co
Conductivity 503 2500 μS/cm at 20°C
E.coli bacteria 0 0 no./100ml
Fluoride 0.63 1.5 mgF/l
Iron 10.25 200 μgFe/l
Manganese 1.68 50 μgMn/l
Nitrate 23 50 mgNO3/l
Odour 0 Acceptable to customers and no abnormal change Dilution Number
Pesticides 0 0.5 μg/l
pH 7.28 6.5 - 9.5 pH Value
Sodium 5.88 200 mgNa/l
Taste 0 Acceptable to customers and no abnormal change Dilution Number
Plumbing Metals
Copper 0.01 2.0 mgCu/l
Lead 3.65 25 μgPb/l
Nickel 1.34 20 μgNi/l


(Recent customer's report) regarding calcium hardness as an average of 68.25.

Magnesium 4.19mg.
Sodium 33.92 Na.
sulphate 60.98 SO4.
Anions Carbonate 51.26

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------



...again, any help would be much apreciated

:thank you:

:thank you:

:thank you:
 

White Tee

Member
Have done a little more looking and it seems I have really hard water. If you look at my previous post my water company states that my water has a German Standard degrees score of 11, which is off the "scale" (pardon the pun :) )


Classification hardness in mg/L hardness in mmol/L hardness in dGH/°dH
......................................................................................................
Soft.........................0–60.......................0–0.60...............0–3.36
Moderately hard......61–120...................0.61–1.20........3.42–6.72
Hard.......................121–180..................1.21–1.80.......6.78–10.08
Very hard................≥ 181........................≥ 1.81.............≥ 10.14


Im guessing that all that calcium is causing a magnesium lockout, so Im gonna be giving them a daily foliar spray of epsom salts for the next few days and hopefully they will pick up
 

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
Hi White Tee

Interesting thread title, loved my 8v ;)

If it is small scale, you can add a bit of rainwater, RO or Distilled water to lower the effect of the ultra hard water, all I can say as I am not a soil grower.

Going to keep an eye on this, was after a pack of these FS NH, they are claiming an amazingly short flowering time for them, a friend has the original breder cut and it is really long flowering and stringy looking, it better be something very special of it is heading for El Bin.....
 

White Tee

Member
Well, Ive been a busy boy today.

Finally finished my scrog pots, had to add a shed load more wire tie round it all as it was a bit loose and a bit flimsy, but while I was at it added some little "wings" on the side to stretch the net right up to the wall, hopefully this will let me make full use of my space


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Im pretty pleased with the result, just hope it does the job!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


Im going to give up on the little plant, I had her propped up to the light to give her every chance of making it but shes just not interested and seems to be getting futher behind if anything, I wont be ripping her but she'll get flipped with the other 3 regardless of what she has on the screen. Maybe she'll stretch a bit now shes a bit out of range of the light, who knows?

Had a friend come round and top the other 3 last night at around what was to become screen height. I still dont know if I should top the runt or not, I think it will depend on what progress or lack of it is made over the next week or so, but obviously it will also depend on how much I fill the screens up before flipping, something which Im still a bit unsure of

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


The general health of my plants is still shit.

They've looked like they've been suffering a little nute burn , but remembering the soil being a bit hot from my 1st grow, I knocked off the feeding when repotting them, and they seem to be improving in this sense, the top leaves are starting to look a little less dark now. I might even give them a half strength feed next time I water, dunno, what do u think?

As for the problem with the bottom of the plant, Im at a loss here. To me it looks the same as all the pictures of Mg deficiency that I have seen, yet Ive sprayed daily with epsoms salts for around a week now and have seen no change at all. Not bothered doing it today as it seems to be making no difference, do you think I should continue with this or not?

The leaves start like this:-

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...gradually turning to this:-

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Ideas please
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


Also, I got round to adding some more holes for the passive intake. Im now looking at my dubious light trap behing my vent and thinking its trapping more air than light, but thats going to have to wait till I get another free day
 

Elsweeto

Member
I think you might have a calcium def. I'm not sure but the spots on the tips of the leaf serrations make me think that's what it is.
you can add two table spoons of garden lime to 5 litres of water shake it up and let it settle then you can water in the solution.
This will bring up your ph but because your growing in peat its not an issue.
I also think they could be watered more often I've noticed if i miss waterings because of say Christmas (with all its blessing and joys:noway:) getting in the way, the bottom leaves will die off like that.
hope that helps.
 

Veno.Amana

Member
You need to flush these plants, the problem started very early and never gotten fixed
which is why they never got to a better state. You knew the problem which is over fert in the beginning.

Flush your soil and check the run off, make sure your ph and ppm is correct and feed them small dose until they fully recover. Also topping them at this age and in this condition will just make thing worse. leave them alone, let them do their thing and give them the right food, they'll bounce back in no time.

Good luck


Veno.A
 

White Tee

Member
...some update pics...

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...the runt seems to be kicking on now...


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...not sure how much longer before I flip now...


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VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hey man it looks promising - the screens are cool although you could probably lower them a bit next time....
not sure what canopy temps you have in there but by the look of the plants (curling upper leaves) they may be heat stressed. you should try and get a hole cutter to make some bigger passive vents.
if you have hard water then you should use citric acid (organic) to reduce the pH before you water, or try and use some rainwater or something. remember when you water to do so thoroughly so all the soil is wet and you get a little runoff . you might also like to check that your tapwater doesnt contain chloramine. chlorine is fine it will evaporate off if you leave the water in the can for a day or two, chloramine will stay and you need ascorbic acid to neutralise it. the plants are defo not happy about something but should be fine

VG
 

White Tee

Member
I have probably been a little over cautious with the watering this time, I havnt watered till run off with them yet, as I went with bigger pots this time and was worried about having stale water sat in the bottom (although they havnt been left to dry out). I'll step the water up a bit and see if this helps

I have to admit I havnt been letting the water stand before giving it to the girls, they been getting it pretty much direct from the tap. Will see if this also makes a difference

Am already ph'ing the water down to 6 before giving it to them so that shouldnt be a problem

As for the heat, im wondering if this could be anything to do with the bulb being old? This is my second grow with it, and I bought it second-hand. I know they deteriorate in light production over time, but was wondering if they started kicking out more heat in return???


Thanks for the input people
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
sounds like you need a new bulb but this wont affect the heat so much. if you have a regular fan and filter in the top with say a 4" hole then you really need twice this in passive intake. this means if your intake holes are 1" you would need 32 of them to give twice the size and this doesnt take into account friction. basically you need 6 or 8 2" holes in the bottom minimum and you need to measure temps at canopy level (but not in direct light) ideally you want them in the 70's

as for watering you should see a big difference letting the water stand. chlorine will kill your soil life. also any dry soil in the container is no use to the plant so you need to water properly.

cheers

VG
 

White Tee

Member
Took another look at my (im)passive vent today.

Realised I used the wrong equation to find the area of a circle. Now when my maths teacher told me it might come in handy one day, just who wouldve knew? I bet the smart arse couldn't of guessed how I was gonna put it to use though!

Anyway, bored some of the smaller holes out and added a few more at the back which now gives me-

2 x 2 inch dia holes
8 x 1 idh
10 x 0.75 idh
19 x 0.5 idh

A 4 inch dia pipe has an area of about 12.5 inch square, whereas my holes add up to around 28.5 inch square
...this should see me through right?

@vg. I'd planned on putting in several 2 inch holes in the first place, bought a hole cutter (which wasn't cheap) and the thing disintegrated after the first 2.

Also, I've moved the ballast from underneath the cab and put it above, so it is no longer pre-heating the air before it enters the main chamber unlike before
 
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