Mixing White & Multi Spectrum Chip LEDs to Grow MedMan Silver Skunk BX1
- Thread starter PetFlora
- Start date
I see how I confused you. I edited the post. Check it again.
Our weather this year is approaching record highs, with only a few days of dips into mid-upper 60 nights, low-mid 70 days
Room has open beam ceiling, only 4" separates the suns intense heat. Typical mid day temps are 83-85, as is the room. Night maybe 72*s
When I'm home, I turn the ac on for a few hours during hottest part of the day, or until room temp drops to ~ 75*
The balmy weather does take its' toll on a grow and grower
Our weather this year is approaching record highs, with only a few days of dips into mid-upper 60 nights, low-mid 70 days
Room has open beam ceiling, only 4" separates the suns intense heat. Typical mid day temps are 83-85, as is the room. Night maybe 72*s
When I'm home, I turn the ac on for a few hours during hottest part of the day, or until room temp drops to ~ 75*
The balmy weather does take its' toll on a grow and grower
hey petflora
- 1.6 ml 35% h202 every 2-3 days
- more ice packs more often
- airstones in the rez
- water chiller (ouside the room)
med-man
Food Grade 35% is tres expensive
Do you think beauty supply grade at that low amount would be ok? I buy it for general purpose cleaning/disinfecting @ ~ $11/gallon. Have plenty on hand. The only things that oogie builds up in (clogs) are the Hydro Halo rings. I have clean/flush them every couple weeks
4" air stone discs are under each pump 24/7 + nutes are recycling through 160 gph pump over polished ornamental rocks, cascading back into the rez. + some magnetic magic
I call it my High Performance Rez
Haven't found a reasonably priced water chiller + monthly energy cost is high on them
Do you think beauty supply grade at that low amount would be ok? I buy it for general purpose cleaning/disinfecting @ ~ $11/gallon. Have plenty on hand. The only things that oogie builds up in (clogs) are the Hydro Halo rings. I have clean/flush them every couple weeks
4" air stone discs are under each pump 24/7 + nutes are recycling through 160 gph pump over polished ornamental rocks, cascading back into the rez. + some magnetic magic
I call it my High Performance Rez
Haven't found a reasonably priced water chiller + monthly energy cost is high on them
Now, this is amazing to me.
Barely 24 hours later...
View attachment 259168
I dropped 7 seeds in ~ 4 ozs water with a couple drops of Neptune Seaweed Plant Food
24 hours later all seeds cracked
Yesterday I put them in super starter cubes
and placed them under 2 ufo 90s: 3 watt diodes- all white; one is 5000K the other 3500K
Lights are ~ 3ft above the seedlings; 24/0
This morning they have all broken out
I reseated the one on right side that practically grew out of the cube
Barely 24 hours later...
View attachment 259168
I dropped 7 seeds in ~ 4 ozs water with a couple drops of Neptune Seaweed Plant Food
24 hours later all seeds cracked
Yesterday I put them in super starter cubes
and placed them under 2 ufo 90s: 3 watt diodes- all white; one is 5000K the other 3500K
Lights are ~ 3ft above the seedlings; 24/0
This morning they have all broken out
I reseated the one on right side that practically grew out of the cube
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For some reason I am unable to add another photo to my previous post.
Here is pic with lights
View attachment 259179
Here is pic with lights
View attachment 259179
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I'm posting this here, as it might help someone from exeriencing the same problem...
Not happy about it, but I had to harvest at least 10 days early- no signs of amber
I made only 2 changes in the last 5 days
1. I put a ladies footie on each pump to keep them clean (I used men's nylon sox in the past, but they are bigger than necessary
2. I started adding jugs of frozen water, reducing the rez temp from ~ 80 to ~ 70
One of the jugs had a label which was barely submerged into the nutes, so not likely, but the footies...
I would not suspect the nylon, BUT, each footie has a ~ 1/2" x 1" tab at the heel, made from some sort of flexible material, both of which were completely submerged
No doubt china made- bought at Wally world
What I noticed in just 2 days was, the main stalks and branches all turned a pale yellow beige + leafs started drooping/dying
Fresh Nutes ~ 250ppm, pH 6.0
Yesterday morning, I noticed the rez had a small amount of soapy looking bubbles mixed in with the air bubbles
I immediately drained the rez and flushed with RO water
This morning no recovery, so I harvested.
View attachment 259322 View attachment 259323
Not happy about it, but I had to harvest at least 10 days early- no signs of amber
I made only 2 changes in the last 5 days
1. I put a ladies footie on each pump to keep them clean (I used men's nylon sox in the past, but they are bigger than necessary
2. I started adding jugs of frozen water, reducing the rez temp from ~ 80 to ~ 70
One of the jugs had a label which was barely submerged into the nutes, so not likely, but the footies...
I would not suspect the nylon, BUT, each footie has a ~ 1/2" x 1" tab at the heel, made from some sort of flexible material, both of which were completely submerged
No doubt china made- bought at Wally world
What I noticed in just 2 days was, the main stalks and branches all turned a pale yellow beige + leafs started drooping/dying
Fresh Nutes ~ 250ppm, pH 6.0
Yesterday morning, I noticed the rez had a small amount of soapy looking bubbles mixed in with the air bubbles
I immediately drained the rez and flushed with RO water
This morning no recovery, so I harvested.
View attachment 259322 View attachment 259323
I think I figured out what happened
I cleaned the Hydro Halo rings by soaking them in a mixture of Dr Bonner's pure soap + Arm & Hammer Washing Powder + H2O2
Although I rinsed them, apparently not enough, which would account for the bubbles and even though the rez pH was fine (6.0) the roots got soaked with washing powder residue
So the moral of the story, thoroughly rinse your HH rings
Hopefully, the footies over the pumps will prevent algae build up inside them
I cleaned the Hydro Halo rings by soaking them in a mixture of Dr Bonner's pure soap + Arm & Hammer Washing Powder + H2O2
Although I rinsed them, apparently not enough, which would account for the bubbles and even though the rez pH was fine (6.0) the roots got soaked with washing powder residue
So the moral of the story, thoroughly rinse your HH rings
Hopefully, the footies over the pumps will prevent algae build up inside them
All 6 seedlings are pushing on 2"
Not sure how long to keep them under 24/0
I usually do this for a week then cut back 20/4 until they are ready to flip
Thoughts?
Lights
We're getting closer to very bright future with leds
COB emitters are game changers. Think mini hps, but with directional light (no reflected loss + much less heat)
See links below to a good example eshines 5G. Now it can be improved by replacing the multi-chips with COBs + a few other things, BUT...
It is user friendly. and simple to replace emitters- YEAH!
DIYers are proving that a combination of NW or CW @ ~15%, surrounded by WW *~50% 3000k + 50% 2700K) works quite nicely (amazing actually)
Cobs are more efficient than multi-chips, PLUS, being all one spectrum, their life expectancy is both greater while the light is uniform
Improvements would include:
* driver moved outboard to minimize heat
* Note emitter layout on 160 v 320. The 160 will provide more uniform coverage
* Daisy Chain
* 2 o/o switches one for the 4 outside emitters. This to be employed once fruit is established
Plants in vegetative stage do not need as much WW as they do once fruiting begins
Remote is an unnecessary expense
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Zmxkc2W_Xo
http://www.eshinesun.com/growsun/growsun-series.html
Hope this helps
Not sure how long to keep them under 24/0
I usually do this for a week then cut back 20/4 until they are ready to flip
Thoughts?
Lights
We're getting closer to very bright future with leds
COB emitters are game changers. Think mini hps, but with directional light (no reflected loss + much less heat)
See links below to a good example eshines 5G. Now it can be improved by replacing the multi-chips with COBs + a few other things, BUT...
It is user friendly. and simple to replace emitters- YEAH!
DIYers are proving that a combination of NW or CW @ ~15%, surrounded by WW *~50% 3000k + 50% 2700K) works quite nicely (amazing actually)
Cobs are more efficient than multi-chips, PLUS, being all one spectrum, their life expectancy is both greater while the light is uniform
Improvements would include:
* driver moved outboard to minimize heat
* Note emitter layout on 160 v 320. The 160 will provide more uniform coverage
* Daisy Chain
* 2 o/o switches one for the 4 outside emitters. This to be employed once fruit is established
Plants in vegetative stage do not need as much WW as they do once fruiting begins
Remote is an unnecessary expense
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Zmxkc2W_Xo
http://www.eshinesun.com/growsun/growsun-series.html
Hope this helps
Since roots are already protruding outside the 1/2 size starter cube it was time to move to phase 2: the bubbler
I posted step-by-step pics so anyone can see how to do this.
To minimize root rot, I cut starter cubes in half, and water with a meat baster, or eye dropper.
Once the seedlings outgrow the plastic egg tray, they are moved into 3" net pots, 6 of which fits into a 4g tote
I combine small and medium size polished ornamental stones (Dollar Store) in the net pots. First I put a single layer of 'flat' stones on the bottom of the net pots, followed by the plant.
The rocks on the bottom forces the roots to grow sideways, which makes for a stronger anchor for the main stem. I then cup the plant and begin infilling with stones, being very careful not to hit the delicate stems
The stones keep the developing roots cool and allow any additional top feeding to quickly drain into the bubbler.I use a 15 liter per minute 4 head air pump + 4 large oxystones. Note the pic also has a 4" disc, which throws more air, BUT, it is too light, and floats. Figure out how to keep it on the bottom and it's an even better option
I keep the water line right at the bottom of the net pot until roots start exiting, then lower the water line
Nutrients
I like Hydroponic-Research V + B it is a one step powder. It works great, and I am not paying shipping cost for water, PLUS, I have an RO. Water comes out ~ 20ppm. At this stage I mix @ ~ 200ppms, and we're off
View attachment 259553 View attachment 259554 View attachment 259555 View attachment 259556 View attachment 259557
I posted step-by-step pics so anyone can see how to do this.
To minimize root rot, I cut starter cubes in half, and water with a meat baster, or eye dropper.
Once the seedlings outgrow the plastic egg tray, they are moved into 3" net pots, 6 of which fits into a 4g tote
I combine small and medium size polished ornamental stones (Dollar Store) in the net pots. First I put a single layer of 'flat' stones on the bottom of the net pots, followed by the plant.
The rocks on the bottom forces the roots to grow sideways, which makes for a stronger anchor for the main stem. I then cup the plant and begin infilling with stones, being very careful not to hit the delicate stems
The stones keep the developing roots cool and allow any additional top feeding to quickly drain into the bubbler.I use a 15 liter per minute 4 head air pump + 4 large oxystones. Note the pic also has a 4" disc, which throws more air, BUT, it is too light, and floats. Figure out how to keep it on the bottom and it's an even better option
I keep the water line right at the bottom of the net pot until roots start exiting, then lower the water line
Nutrients
I like Hydroponic-Research V + B it is a one step powder. It works great, and I am not paying shipping cost for water, PLUS, I have an RO. Water comes out ~ 20ppm. At this stage I mix @ ~ 200ppms, and we're off
View attachment 259553 View attachment 259554 View attachment 259555 View attachment 259556 View attachment 259557
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Thanks Bud!
Wait until you see the F & D with High Performance Rez in action.
Shit, I missed the pic of the roots exiting the cube. The prior post pics is maxed out
So...
View attachment 259562
Wait until you see the F & D with High Performance Rez in action.
Shit, I missed the pic of the roots exiting the cube. The prior post pics is maxed out
So...
View attachment 259562
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Is it possible to change this threads' title?
I have regained my sanity, or lost it...
Here is the elephant in the room that no one has considered
Don't confuse any R/B or multi-spectrum emitter first generation grow results with what will likely happen in subsequent generation seeds/clones, namely: genetic alterations, due to improper spectrums that are likely to negatively affect all subsequent seed generation
Genetic Predisposition
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetic_predisposition
Plant and animal genetics will change/adapt due to environmental stresses- and rarely for the betterment
Human and animal predispositions include; heart disease, cancer, scurvy, hip dysplaysia, allergies... to name a few well known subsequent generation genetic alteration/health issues.
Unless the cause changes, predispositions are likely to develop
IMO, this is compounded because mj is a fruiting plant, therefor having a greater need for a balanced spectrum throughout it's life, although that balance is tilted toward blue spectrums in veg, and red in flower
Think how commercial fruit and vegetable agricultural practices of not replenishing the soil with proper macros or micro has impacted not only the taste, but the nutritional value of the foods we eat
At least 10 years ago, the Department of Agriculture stated that agricultural top soil (top 6") is dead
Nutrients is energy, and so is light
So whether I am growing with hot5s or leds, make mine predominantly WHITE
I have regained my sanity, or lost it...
Here is the elephant in the room that no one has considered
Don't confuse any R/B or multi-spectrum emitter first generation grow results with what will likely happen in subsequent generation seeds/clones, namely: genetic alterations, due to improper spectrums that are likely to negatively affect all subsequent seed generation
Genetic Predisposition
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetic_predisposition
Plant and animal genetics will change/adapt due to environmental stresses- and rarely for the betterment
Human and animal predispositions include; heart disease, cancer, scurvy, hip dysplaysia, allergies... to name a few well known subsequent generation genetic alteration/health issues.
Unless the cause changes, predispositions are likely to develop
IMO, this is compounded because mj is a fruiting plant, therefor having a greater need for a balanced spectrum throughout it's life, although that balance is tilted toward blue spectrums in veg, and red in flower
Think how commercial fruit and vegetable agricultural practices of not replenishing the soil with proper macros or micro has impacted not only the taste, but the nutritional value of the foods we eat
At least 10 years ago, the Department of Agriculture stated that agricultural top soil (top 6") is dead
Nutrients is energy, and so is light
So whether I am growing with hot5s or leds, make mine predominantly WHITE
O-M-G It's Here
O-M-G It's Here
Surfin the net for where to buy cobs I came across this DIY thread
O-M-G It's Here
Surfin the net for where to buy cobs I came across this DIY thread
IMO no need for the regular bulbs as overheads, drop or side lighting maybe, but
Feast your eyes on this...
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/DIY-LED-grow-light
Feast your eyes on this...
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/DIY-LED-grow-light
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Anyone interested in buying/building an led panel/light should subscribe to www.ledmagazine.com
The current issue has awakened me to not buy any fixed diode/emitter lights at this time, and likely never
One article blows up the 50,000 hour life expectancy BS. It might be true, but not as a useful light to grow mj. There example shows the same light new v 5000 hours. 5000 divided by 15 (av hours per day between V & B)= 333 days. Nooooooooooooooo!
I am going to go with either a manufactured light where cobs are easily replaced by the owner, or a DIY using Molex receptacles + COBs; see my post # 37
[/FONT]
The current issue has awakened me to not buy any fixed diode/emitter lights at this time, and likely never
One article blows up the 50,000 hour life expectancy BS. It might be true, but not as a useful light to grow mj. There example shows the same light new v 5000 hours. 5000 divided by 15 (av hours per day between V & B)= 333 days. Nooooooooooooooo!
I am going to go with either a manufactured light where cobs are easily replaced by the owner, or a DIY using Molex receptacles + COBs; see my post # 37
[/FONT]
Bit of both
As you know, not much going on at the moment, although the young leaf are reaching toward the lights
No real reason to post daily seedling pics
Pretty much all the lead up is out of the way
As you know, not much going on at the moment, although the young leaf are reaching toward the lights
No real reason to post daily seedling pics
Pretty much all the lead up is out of the way
