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Mini-split outside temp advice.

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
Do you have enough clearance behind your compressor? I had mine ice up once after I moved it too close to a wall. Scooted it back a foot and never had a problem again.
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
check your airflow, if the coils and filters are clean check charge... how long is your lineset? thay come precharged for 25 ft... if its longer you could be undercharged. edit: are they quick connect lines or did you braze them? there could be a restriction in the line also....
 

Del Davis

New member
The compressor was about a one and a half feet from the wall, I moved it out a bit farther. The coils on it were a little dirty also so I went ahead and cleaned it as well. There was a list of error codes and what they mean under the lid so I'll have that to reference if I see one.

The lineset is 25ft and quick connect. I don't have the equipment to check the charge but if I end up needing to I may get some and try to figure out how to do it.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
So, I'm starting to think it might not have as much to do with outside temperature. It started doing it again during the day when it was warm out. I have a setup that sends me a text on my phone if the room gets over 90* so I can go and deal with it right away. It seems like it just cant keep up after a while when all the lights are on.

.


check the inside head unit tube blower, this is what blows cold air out.
turn it off and gently pry open the cover to the blower.
see if it's fouled with mold.
you can see a tiny spot of mold in this pic
picture.php


also pull off the plastic housing cover and check to see if the AC coil fins are clean.

the line icing up can be a few things
1 like asslover said is low refridgerent
another cause is blockage of air flow over the fins on the coil the inside the head unit
OR
the most common cause is your tube blower is clogged with mold it can't draw air over the fins fast enuff.
here's a moldy tube blower on my mr slim
picture.php

a quick way to check the blower is set it the fan on hi
and put your hand to see if its pushing the air out enuff

good luck
:smoke:
 

Del Davis

New member
The blower did have some of that and looked similar to the first pic, I was able to clean it last night with some pipe cleaners, not sure how i'd go about removing the whole blower but I was able to get it pretty clean through the slot in the front. The fins on the inside unit were clean but the outside ones where dirty and I cleaned them today.

I looked at the remote again and the fan speed was set on auto so I changed it to full speed. I also turned on the Turbo function. It seems to be blowing pretty strong now.

When it happened during the day the other day I was able to turn it off right away unlike the night when it first happened. I think that prevented the lines outside from icing over again.

It hasn't happened in a while so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that some of this helped.

Thanks!
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
If gnome could write up a brief how-to on cleaning the blower tube on a Breeze unit I know I would sure appreciate it. Whadaya say buddy? Or even just getting the plastic housing off...
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
If gnome could write up a brief how-to on cleaning the blower tube on a Breeze unit I know I would sure appreciate it. Whadaya say buddy? Or even just getting the plastic housing off...

i haven't really needed to clean the blower.
we talked about this last year, only part of the plastic housing comes off to expose the top of the unit so you can get to the coil/fins and the raceway for the condensate water to run thru.
BUT
it doesn't give you anymore access to the tube blower..
I still have that PDF download i told you about last year
it has the exploded diagram.
if you want it let me know, or anyone that has either the 12Kbtu or 24Kbtu
it's gonna be one pita to clean it when it comes time.
I'm thinking those Q tips with the long wooden skewer type handle on it

thing is, I can actually remove the blower assembly on my mr slim in 5 minutes.
looking at the exploded diagram on the breeze is a major piece of work probably not worth the effort
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
in that video the guy is working on a mitsu mr slim
he's pulling the entire motor assembly to get the tube blower out.
he's doing it the hard way.

I talked to a mitsu service rep,
he told me to pull the cover and the water tray out to access the blower,
you'll see a set screw on the right hand side of it,
you have to peek up in there to see it and a flash lite helps.
pull it(screw) out and from there you can gently pry on the housing on the left side i think,
and remover the blower and skip all the extra hassle that guy is doing.

if you don't want to remove the blower on a mr slim here's a quick way to access it for cleaning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quRVwYVBlb4
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
i would clean and inspect as per gnomes advice here. you should be able to get a parts diagram from friedrich to help you dissemble the unit without too much bullshit.

a fouled blower wheel is something i had not considered. makes sense seeing as how these units tend to have less in the way of filtration owing to low static pressure.

you may or may not need to buy a torx set. probably not for the plastic housing.


regarding a possible low charge.

its possible, though as i understand electronic expansion valves, this should not happen. perhaps your unit does not incorporate an EEV unlike most mini splits?

EEV's from what i understand, operate usually operate with a temp sensor on the evaporator. meaning as the temperature drops inside the eaporator, the controller should compensate by closing the EEV further, thus reducing the flow of refrigerant.

i suppose its possible the EEV is maxed out? closing down as far as it can?
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
i suppose its possible the EEV is maxed out? closing down as far as it can?


That was part of my thought when I mentioned a restriction... debris gets caught in the expansion valve or further down on the liquid line, a filter drier could be plugged.. (if there is a filter drier)
 

Del Davis

New member
Thought I'd give an update. It's been running great for the past week without any issues, including through some cold nights. I ended up cleaning the evaporator blower fan and the condenser coil, insulated the lines, moved the condenser further from the wall, and changed the evaporator fan from auto to full speed. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
how much gunk did you remove? was it clearly the issue at hand?

fwiw, your system will not dehumidify as well at the very high fan speed so you might pay close attention to the humidity going forward.
 

Del Davis

New member
The blower wasn't that dirty but the condenser coil did have a good amount of gunk in it. I'm not positive exactly what the issue was but it happened three or four times and then after doing the stuff I did it's been running fine for the past week with all my lights on.

I'll keep an eye on the humidity, I also run a dehumidifier which should pick up any slack from the AC.
 
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I am wanting to install a 2 or 3 zone split mini in my cabin. I'm no AC guy but am 63 and been remodeling as a contractor for over 30 years. Here's my dream:
1. Talk me thru which unit I need. I have been shopping a lot and am fairly familiar with the different units available.
2. Find someone I can call while shopping the pawnshops for tools and buy the rest new.
3. Be available to call while I am installing. I will only call during the days/hours you approve. I guarantee I won't be a PITA.

Any takers? PM me please.
TY

4. Provide fair compensation for the help via PayPal or mail a Lowes gift card.
 

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