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MH vs HPS in bloom

FunkBomb

Power Armor rules
Veteran
Those bulbs with both HPS and MH look great, but at $180 there is no way I'd go for that. I think I will have to give those Sunmaster warm deluxe MH a shot after seeing those C99s geeeez.

-Funk
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
i'm using sunmaster warm deluxe...the k range is 3200...i'm seeing at least 25-33% more frost, and the calyxes are swelling bigger than ever before, also i saw no loss in density at all, in fact the buds were harder than ever...there are tons of variables to sort out but those two are factors i can directly attribute to the bulb, i also had a pretty huge weight gain over previous harvests, i have yet to do the numbers but almost a gram per watt, that is likely attributed to better cloning practices over previous runs however, when you flower from clone like i do, the amount of roots the clones have can influence the quality of the run more than everything else combined...i mention it only too say i don't think mh cost me any yeild at all, and probably did help at least a little...

as far as i'm concerned the sunmaster warm deluxe mh is superior to my hortilux eye hps for budding, in almost every possible way i can measure...for me this means i definitely wont be going back, and will be recommending everybody i get into the game use metal halide for flowering...
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thats interesting sloth,
I don't think the particular K rating is as important as just bumping it up out of the HPS range.

looking at vapedg13's pics of his stuff is amazing,
he's using a cheapo sylvania BT56 Mh with a 4000K rating.

my grow that inspired me to write this thread was using a super HPS horti eye(pure waste of good $$ imo, I'll explain below)
and the other bulb used was a solarmax 1000w Mh---> 7200K
now that's a blue damn bulb!!
I also use a summaster cool deluxe 1000w 6000K
I'm using both of these on a grow that just went into bloom.

now about the horti super hps eye being a total waste of $$.

Ive been using these very cheapo HPS bulbs that came with the very cheap lite-hood-cooltube-timer-and Mh+hps bulbs kits i bought a few years back.
the HPS bulbs did very good IMO and then a thread made me want to invest into the horti eyes here on IC that showed plants XXXtimes the size grown under the horti eyes compared to his other bulb, there was zero difference using that xpensive ass'd bulb next to the cheep cheeep cheeeep HPS $30 no name bulb that came with my kit
I wonder how much he was paid for that thread...:jerkit:

anyways like you sloth, my buds under the solar max super blue 7200K were much bigger and denser and there was less stretch.
the yield was 40grams hps against 61grams MH
thats a difference worth noting.. eh :smoke:
potency was about the same and thats a subjective thing, I'm surprised you had a increase thats worth noting.
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
yeah,
xpensive for sure hammer...
if you really think on it those dual spectrum bulbs aren't doing you any favors, really a waste of money if you think on it.
in a 1000w dual spec. bulb you get a 400w mh and a 600w hps
BUT your going to have to keep it the 1000w distance from your plants
so both the 600 and the 400w are going to be much further out if they're own *optimal distance zones*
what a waste :joint:
that is so far fetched its not even funny 1000's are one fcking unbelievable bulb pentetration like no other efficient cost wise???
on paper it says 600 watts are more efficient again , i question that bigtime 1000 watts 30" from tops will pretty much give plants its max power place a 600 3 feet above a plant and see how efficient it really is ?????
you be surprised how much you lost in that 600 at that height.
Now back to 1000's you can have a 1000 12" "from tops of plant as long as you got cold air movement inbetween tops and bulb or you can run diffused set ups where you dont have to worry about radiant heat period i run my 1000's not one but a few 18" from tops and it appears there doing fine ???? what do you think
?????
And that's open reflector :peacock::artist:
 

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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The biggest diferance I see is the quality of the parts used.. I also dont like Horti's they dont last on my Lumateks. I get 6 months max then they color shift to blue. The best bulbs I have used so far are Osram Plantastar. I still have 1 that still fires its over 2 year old. I dont use it anymore. I keep all my old bulbs for emergency use...Im using 1k Digilux
(75$)and 2 600 hps Plantastar(72$) right now..

The efficiency of the 600 is a well known fact my friend.. You dont have to agree with it but its true all vendors will confirm this.. Its not the penetration of the bulb that makes them more efficient. It's the way they use the electricity that makes them more efficient. Watt for watt the 600 uses it better then the 1k's..If you do a little research you will find the info...
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
The biggest diferance I see is the quality of the parts used.. I also dont like Horti's they dont last on my Lumateks. I get 6 months max then they color shift to blue. The best bulbs I have used so far are Osram Plantastar. I still have 1 that still fires its over 2 year old. I dont use it anymore. I keep all my old bulbs for emergency use...Im using 1k Digilux
(75$)and 2 600 hps Plantastar(72$) right now..

The efficiency of the 600 is a well known fact my friend.. You dont have to agree with it but its true all vendors will confirm this.. Its not the penetration of the bulb that makes them more efficient. It's the way they use the electricity that makes them more efficient. Watt for watt the 600 uses it better then the 1k's..If you do a little research you will find the info...

my friend to be quite honest it all comes down to yield Period 600's more effieicent cost wise perhaps yield wise good luck my previous yield was 5 plant 4.75 pounds dry 2k it all comes down to producing buds like this on 5 gallon bucket ??? and not one but 650 + that my friend is being efficient
would love to see 600's compete to that not going to happen specially producing lower buds like this
hahaha just have to look at a 600 watt bulb compared to a 1000 watt bulb your talking 88,000 lumen compared to 150,000 lumens if you can control the radiant heat you will by far blow a 600 out of the water
 

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DrFever

Active member
Veteran
hammer your more then welcome to join my thread its pretty much day by day updates 5 x 15 scrog 3 k what do you think i will yield ???? trust me dude vegged 5 weeks 120.00 a month on light lets just say 160.00 a month 5 weeks veg so 320 for veg 6 weeks flower another 160 = 480 total costs and that is inrreality over what i would pay anyways ??
for power costs yield 7 - 9 pounds not bad @ 2800 a pound lets round it off min harvest lol 7.5 pounds dry = 21,000 $$$$ 12 plants you think 600's would pull this out of 12 plants 5 week veg ??????
 

vapedg13

Member
Veteran
Those bulbs with both HPS and MH look great, but at $180 there is no way I'd go for that. I think I will have to give those Sunmaster warm deluxe MH a shot after seeing those C99s geeeez.

-Funk


haha... mh can produce fat nugs but it is strain related

005-33.jpg


heres a nice oz+ top
003-35.jpg
 

DrFever

Active member
Veteran
LOL....amen to that brother, not even worth my time to go there :jerkit:

Here is a grow i did and to be honest my Very first indoor grow EVER 2000 watts MH and HPS grow only thing i had was de humidifier and exhaust fan
72 plants vegged 5 weeks 6 pounds dry figure that out for GPW
 

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the gnome

Active member
Veteran
i'm using sunmaster warm deluxe...the k range is 3200...i'm seeing at least 25-33% more frost, and the calyxes are swelling bigger than ever before, also i saw no loss in density at all, in fact the buds were harder than ever...there are tons of variables to sort out but those two are factors i can directly attribute to the bulb, i also had a pretty huge weight gain over previous harvests, i have yet to do the numbers but almost a gram per watt, that is likely attributed to better cloning practices over previous runs however, when you flower from clone like i do, the amount of roots the clones have can influence the quality of the run more than everything else combined...i mention it only too say i don't think mh cost me any yeild at all, and probably did help at least a little...

as far as i'm concerned the sunmaster warm deluxe mh is superior to my hortilux eye hps for budding, in almost every possible way i can measure...for me this means i definitely wont be going back, and will be recommending everybody i get into the game use metal halide for flowering...it's just the best way, and anybody doing combinations of hps and mh is wasting their time, if they would nut up and switch out all their hps bulbs for sunmaster warm deluxe bulbs they will get as good or better yeild, with higher potency, better looking buds...it's not a dangerous experiment, and will only do good things for your plants and wallet...

if you look at the graph for my bulb, and then compare it to the graph below it, being extra CAREFUL to pay attention to the numbers, because they don't line up exactly, you will see that this bulb puts out almost the exact profile of what the plant uses, there are no spectrum that cannabis needs that it doesn't produce well, vs hps not producing blues well...blues are the workhorse of the light spectrum, they do all of the growth work...the reds trigger hormonal changes but don't contribute to bud growth in the ways people think they do...this is why new metal halides outperform hps in ALL areas...there is nothing an hps can do that a warm spectrum mh can't do but there is quite a bit that a warm spectrum halide can do that hps can't!
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thats nice the warm deluxe is giving you such great results with the 3000K rating.
my bulbs were on the far end of the spectrum with a 7200K
and looking at vapedg13's beautiful grows his inexpensive Mh bulbs are pushing 4000K.
so its looking like if the strain performs well good under Mh in bloom the color range isn't too speciific as long as its towards the blue end.
so that takes me to wonder how your C99 would do under the 7200k
is your c99 the only strain you plan to run in bloom with Mh?

at any rate its great to see your post with success using Mh in bloom. I think were going to be seeing a lot more successful grows being posted in future here as more people leave their Mh bulbs in when they flip into 12/12 :)
 

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
ive also been running a skunk through there, it has always been kinda poopy, just a seat filler when i couldn't get enough clones from my c99 mom, but under the metal halide it actually looks halfway bomb! i killed the skunk mom but i'm going through a pack of maple leaf indica's right now, so i'll be running them under it soon...

another plus for me is the light makes it super easy to see deficiencies or pests(of which i have neither), and also makes checking trichomes super easy...hps light makes looking for amber trich's a nightmare!@
 
N

noyd666

see solis tek m h globes
600 4k 88.00 aus.
600 6k 88.
600 2k 69. flower all stages. were in sunpulse section, probaly sunpulse globes?.
 

diseasedmind

Active member
@senorsloth How do you think this bulb would stack up against the Warm deluxe? I am looking to get a new bulb, just want the best.

1100 watt Sunmaster 3200k 133,000 lumens

1000 watt Hortilux Blue 6500k 80,000 lumens
 

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Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
I recently bought an Inda-Gro 420 which I will use as a primary with a 430W HPS as a secondary (4-6 hours per day) to really kick the lumens into higher gear. I've got a MH conversion bulb I will possibly run towards the end of the cycle. That is in a 4x4 tent BTW.

I grow a lot of sativas and I definitely think the blue spectrum is a benefit...
 

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
@senorsloth How do you think this bulb would stack up against the Warm deluxe? I am looking to get a new bulb, just want the best.

1100 watt Sunmaster 3200k 133,000 lumens

1000 watt Hortilux Blue 6500k 80,000 lumens
i know lumens don't mean anything, but these have really low lumens compared to most bulbs...i dunno lol i don't know anything about these bulbs i just figured the red spectrum mh was where is it at, still have all the blue that the normal ones have but they also have enough reds for ripening and uv for awesome trichage...i could be wrong, im no expert, but it's working for me...
 

nephrosis

Active member

My MH bulb is on the LEFT! check out the deep red at the far right of the left picture and also check out the red and yellow along with the vegging lights.

Well.... I have been groing for alittle now and from what iv noticed is i personaly think MH is better for entire grow.

I have a 7200k plantmax MH bulb and it has high red/yellow values WHILE also include a high BLUE value! The blue Light is like the plants life line while the red/yellow lights CHANGE the hormones in the plant to allow the plant to produces hormones for flowering (also due to light change)

If you take out the blue spectrum in flowering i have a feeling the plant ends up going into shock and STRETCHES to the HPS light looking for MORE light. <--- THATS why you get a decent stretch when u switch the plants (stretch but no width) but once the stretch stops, its because the plant realizes theres no blue light so it stops stretching and produces the only hormones it has left (flower hormones)

Im not saying this is BAD! its just a technique to use inorder to flower plants and how they do flower.

I bet if you had a FAT multispectrum MH bulb with maybe a deep red spectrum along with red and yellowish spectrum you could get better/healthier plants then switching the bulbs and basicly cutting off certain plant hormones and hindering the quality.


Now what iv noticed with using my MH bulb is that not only do i get a healthy stretch, the stems seem to be WAY HEALTHIER! I have concluded i will be using my MH bulb for the entire veg/flower!


MH also emits UV rays that helps promote healthy resin production (Sun screen).....

check out my 2nd grow and see what happens with a 7200k MH only bulb grow
 

bowzer

Member
Since one of the main factors in the plants growth is genetics, wouldn't it be cool if seed companies specified which light each strain was developed under? That would take alot of the unknowns out of it.
 

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