medikush
Member
Or How to Exterminate an entire Population naturally.
Medikush's Final Solution -- 6 Million Mites - The Extermination of an entire population. Step by Step Instructions for doing it naturally.
Preliminary MAIN important thing ot do...Stay on top of the life cycle. Above 80 degrees and they hatch eggs every two days.....1 million mites equals 100 million 1 week later, do not let it get to this...under 70 degrees and they only hatch every 5-7 days, and it's much easier to get on top of their life cycle and eliminate them entirely with lower temps. Get it below 70 NO MATTER WHAT, or AS LOW AS POSSIBLE.
1. Do you have 1 or 2 rooms? 1 room Flowering and you buy clones at a club or get them from a friend...or B. you vegg your plants in one room, then flower out in another and always have a room with vegging plants ready for the next cycle? Or C. You veg in one room for a while, then flower in the same room afterwards?
2. Determine the extent of the problem. A. Is it Just starting out? B. Is it full blown infected every plant? C. Is it widespread and out of control with webbing?
These are the first 2 things to consider. Very important to determine the correct answer here.
In step 1, if you answered 1 room, then you have few problems to worry about in the long run and it will be alot easier. If you answered B, it will be VERY difficult, but possible and this is the way I have had ot deal with it. If you answered C. that is the medium, actually, and it will be difficult but not nearly as difficult as if you were in situation B.
In step 2, if you answered A., then take each plants and look at it under the 400 or 600 or 1000 watt (preferably) light that you have. Remove all "un-infected" plants (which means ABSOLUTELY NO MITES OR EGGS) and remove them completely from the proximity, at least 8 feet apart from any other plants or preferably in another room entirely if possible, but not necessary. In order to determine whether or not the plants have any eggs or mites you need to have REAL GOOD eyes and look under the leaves on EACH LEAF on the plant, and that means EVERY SINGLE LEAF. Obviously this is MUCH easier to do with little plants instead of large bushes but it can be done either way. It takes hours to do this properly and if you have over 50 plants it can take a couple days to do, working 8 hours a day, and if the plants are bushes it can take even longer, but it needs to be done right away.
Look at each leaf from under the plant, meaning sit down on the ground and look up at the leaf with the light shining through the leaf...and look for ANY dark blemishes AT ALL.....inspect each dark spot, each TINY little white dot (eggs) and each little area of the leaf......watch for a moment on each leaf and give it a brief moment to meditate on...watch for ANY movement at all.....if there is ANYTHING at all moving, remove the leaf completely. (If you have thrips and NOT mites, bypass this step and do NOT remove every leaf with anything moving....just the ones with 30% or more damage to the leaf surface...back to the REAL problem....
Now take each leaf you remove and DO NOT place it on the ground, but rather place it in a bag spreyed on the inside with neem and pyrethrum. MAKE SURE TO HAVE 2 THINGS HANDY. Bug Buster concentrated Pyrethrum, and Green light concentrated Neel oil. Use as directed. Do NOT use bombs, as they burn the plants due to freezing from aerosol spray....many people think that Pyrethrum hurts plants and I used to believe this but it's not true, it's just that I was using and many other people use bombs and the aerosol burns (freezes) the leaves...this causes what looks like burn on the leaves....
Now when you place the plants back down in some area, make sure the leaves from each plant are NOT touching the other plants next to it. They can be close, but NEVER touching...these are under "suspicion of harboring enemy spies" now...
Next step, spray with a mix of the concentrated Neem and Concentrated Pyrethrum (mixed with water appropriately according to instructions, of course) with pump sprayer of some kind, which will make it much easier on the hands than a handheld sprayer, unless the plants are very little, then a little water sprayer will work even better, actually.
Spray under the leaves, and on top, but MAKE SURE TO SPRAY UNDER THEM AS WELL. Next, remove and move to a higher elevation above the ground, even if you have to place a pot under each pot, that's good enough. the idea is to make it a far journey in each mites conscience (they know exactly how far away the next plant is if they have to walk and it's miles for them...they smell the distance away...it's eerie. Just do it, and take my word for it, it helps)....Next.
Do this each day with the apraying the plants with the concentrates...it's o.k., I have done this for two weeks straight and it doesn't hurt them. Just don't spray too heavily and try not to let much get in the soil or resevoir, if you have a water or nutrient fee, make sure it's covered when you do this. If you are not too comfortable doing thi sdaily, do it every other day, but don't go more than a day without doing it, no matter what.....if possible.
Repeat the search for mite dissidents and holdouts like before, EACH 4-5 days, and NO LONGER. Each plant MUST be inspected, and EACH LEAF inspected every 4 or 5 days NO MATTER WHAT. Then repeat all other processes again. Each time you do this, you will find the population eliminated by a large percentage.....YOU HAVE TO BE PERSISTANT, and view this as ALL OUT WAR!!! It's either them or your garden, and I know it aint gonna be my garden. It takes lots of time, but every hour in the garden doing tis say to yourself, and realize just ho whappy you will be when they are gone....and your getting closer each day, day by day, and they WILL BE GONE EVENTUALLY.
If you have stage B infection, then repeat the process of removing uninfected plants from the immediate area. Next, REMOVE ALL LEAVES with obvious mite damage....if the damage is pretty bad on most leaves but no real webbing yet, then remove only 30% of the fan leaves and only remove the ones with the worst damage...spray each plant as in stage A. Repeat all processes as in stage A, but each 4 or 5 days after new leaves have a chance to grow in, repeat the leaf removal on OLD LEAVES that were left on before but had damage and could no tbe removed because the plant might have been harmed from having too many leaves removed at once.
If you have stage C infection.....Your flat out FUCKED! Haha, just kidding....but be prepeared to do battle like in "Apocalypse Now".
Get yourself an Air Compressor, and each day, blow off as many mites as you can and pretend your gassing them to death...
This is important because if there are thousands and they have webs at the tops of the plants near the lights and such, you WILL NEED TO DO THIS to reduce the populations....you can finish your harvest but you need ot do this daily to save things from complete destruction.....BLAST THEM WITH AIR, it works great...then pull your harvest and clean up the room as best you can because you aren; teven going to be close to finish yet....most likely with populations that large dormant eggs are everywhere including in your pots, or resovoir, etc...remove all ties, sticks and dirt or water and clean everything each time now completely.....
Now the next crop coming in should either be completely clean and you'll need to watch carefully for the first sign of posssible infection....or you have plants taken from moms that are infected and you need to not only clean them up but keep them clean.....
This may take several cycles to clean up completely because clones that are taken from heavily infected plants are usually heavily infected themselves, however, it's MUCH easier to clean them up and keep them clean when they are small.....so NOW IS YOUR GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY.....reduce their numbers as much as possible on little plants by using your fingers to lightly "rub" ther undersides where you see living walking problems...do this until the babies are big enough to get a spray of the concentrates (about 1 week after transplant from clone should do it to be safe)
Now all steps will need to be CONSTANTLY REPEATED until sucess is achieved.
Sucess will eventually be achieved, NO MATTER WHAT!!!
I have used this method and developed it myself, to completely eliminate mites now 3 times from my garden. The first time was from a FULL BLOWN outbreak with clusters of mites on top of my flower tops, a sight that would bring a grown man to tears.....
I have achieved sucess where others say it's "Impossible". As a matter of fact, I have been told over 3 times by different growers that it is "Impossible" to do what I have done. Countless time i have heard mites referred to as the problem that requires such drastic solutions that you HAVE TO tear everything down.....
That's simply NOT true,just follow the instructions carefully and you'll be on your way.
Best of luck, and remember....Take NO Prisoners, and Show NO Mercy!!!!
__________________
Medikush's Final Solution -- 6 Million Mites - The Extermination of an entire population. Step by Step Instructions for doing it naturally.
Preliminary MAIN important thing ot do...Stay on top of the life cycle. Above 80 degrees and they hatch eggs every two days.....1 million mites equals 100 million 1 week later, do not let it get to this...under 70 degrees and they only hatch every 5-7 days, and it's much easier to get on top of their life cycle and eliminate them entirely with lower temps. Get it below 70 NO MATTER WHAT, or AS LOW AS POSSIBLE.
1. Do you have 1 or 2 rooms? 1 room Flowering and you buy clones at a club or get them from a friend...or B. you vegg your plants in one room, then flower out in another and always have a room with vegging plants ready for the next cycle? Or C. You veg in one room for a while, then flower in the same room afterwards?
2. Determine the extent of the problem. A. Is it Just starting out? B. Is it full blown infected every plant? C. Is it widespread and out of control with webbing?
These are the first 2 things to consider. Very important to determine the correct answer here.
In step 1, if you answered 1 room, then you have few problems to worry about in the long run and it will be alot easier. If you answered B, it will be VERY difficult, but possible and this is the way I have had ot deal with it. If you answered C. that is the medium, actually, and it will be difficult but not nearly as difficult as if you were in situation B.
In step 2, if you answered A., then take each plants and look at it under the 400 or 600 or 1000 watt (preferably) light that you have. Remove all "un-infected" plants (which means ABSOLUTELY NO MITES OR EGGS) and remove them completely from the proximity, at least 8 feet apart from any other plants or preferably in another room entirely if possible, but not necessary. In order to determine whether or not the plants have any eggs or mites you need to have REAL GOOD eyes and look under the leaves on EACH LEAF on the plant, and that means EVERY SINGLE LEAF. Obviously this is MUCH easier to do with little plants instead of large bushes but it can be done either way. It takes hours to do this properly and if you have over 50 plants it can take a couple days to do, working 8 hours a day, and if the plants are bushes it can take even longer, but it needs to be done right away.
Look at each leaf from under the plant, meaning sit down on the ground and look up at the leaf with the light shining through the leaf...and look for ANY dark blemishes AT ALL.....inspect each dark spot, each TINY little white dot (eggs) and each little area of the leaf......watch for a moment on each leaf and give it a brief moment to meditate on...watch for ANY movement at all.....if there is ANYTHING at all moving, remove the leaf completely. (If you have thrips and NOT mites, bypass this step and do NOT remove every leaf with anything moving....just the ones with 30% or more damage to the leaf surface...back to the REAL problem....
Now take each leaf you remove and DO NOT place it on the ground, but rather place it in a bag spreyed on the inside with neem and pyrethrum. MAKE SURE TO HAVE 2 THINGS HANDY. Bug Buster concentrated Pyrethrum, and Green light concentrated Neel oil. Use as directed. Do NOT use bombs, as they burn the plants due to freezing from aerosol spray....many people think that Pyrethrum hurts plants and I used to believe this but it's not true, it's just that I was using and many other people use bombs and the aerosol burns (freezes) the leaves...this causes what looks like burn on the leaves....
Now when you place the plants back down in some area, make sure the leaves from each plant are NOT touching the other plants next to it. They can be close, but NEVER touching...these are under "suspicion of harboring enemy spies" now...
Next step, spray with a mix of the concentrated Neem and Concentrated Pyrethrum (mixed with water appropriately according to instructions, of course) with pump sprayer of some kind, which will make it much easier on the hands than a handheld sprayer, unless the plants are very little, then a little water sprayer will work even better, actually.
Spray under the leaves, and on top, but MAKE SURE TO SPRAY UNDER THEM AS WELL. Next, remove and move to a higher elevation above the ground, even if you have to place a pot under each pot, that's good enough. the idea is to make it a far journey in each mites conscience (they know exactly how far away the next plant is if they have to walk and it's miles for them...they smell the distance away...it's eerie. Just do it, and take my word for it, it helps)....Next.
Do this each day with the apraying the plants with the concentrates...it's o.k., I have done this for two weeks straight and it doesn't hurt them. Just don't spray too heavily and try not to let much get in the soil or resevoir, if you have a water or nutrient fee, make sure it's covered when you do this. If you are not too comfortable doing thi sdaily, do it every other day, but don't go more than a day without doing it, no matter what.....if possible.
Repeat the search for mite dissidents and holdouts like before, EACH 4-5 days, and NO LONGER. Each plant MUST be inspected, and EACH LEAF inspected every 4 or 5 days NO MATTER WHAT. Then repeat all other processes again. Each time you do this, you will find the population eliminated by a large percentage.....YOU HAVE TO BE PERSISTANT, and view this as ALL OUT WAR!!! It's either them or your garden, and I know it aint gonna be my garden. It takes lots of time, but every hour in the garden doing tis say to yourself, and realize just ho whappy you will be when they are gone....and your getting closer each day, day by day, and they WILL BE GONE EVENTUALLY.
If you have stage B infection, then repeat the process of removing uninfected plants from the immediate area. Next, REMOVE ALL LEAVES with obvious mite damage....if the damage is pretty bad on most leaves but no real webbing yet, then remove only 30% of the fan leaves and only remove the ones with the worst damage...spray each plant as in stage A. Repeat all processes as in stage A, but each 4 or 5 days after new leaves have a chance to grow in, repeat the leaf removal on OLD LEAVES that were left on before but had damage and could no tbe removed because the plant might have been harmed from having too many leaves removed at once.
If you have stage C infection.....Your flat out FUCKED! Haha, just kidding....but be prepeared to do battle like in "Apocalypse Now".
Get yourself an Air Compressor, and each day, blow off as many mites as you can and pretend your gassing them to death...
This is important because if there are thousands and they have webs at the tops of the plants near the lights and such, you WILL NEED TO DO THIS to reduce the populations....you can finish your harvest but you need ot do this daily to save things from complete destruction.....BLAST THEM WITH AIR, it works great...then pull your harvest and clean up the room as best you can because you aren; teven going to be close to finish yet....most likely with populations that large dormant eggs are everywhere including in your pots, or resovoir, etc...remove all ties, sticks and dirt or water and clean everything each time now completely.....
Now the next crop coming in should either be completely clean and you'll need to watch carefully for the first sign of posssible infection....or you have plants taken from moms that are infected and you need to not only clean them up but keep them clean.....
This may take several cycles to clean up completely because clones that are taken from heavily infected plants are usually heavily infected themselves, however, it's MUCH easier to clean them up and keep them clean when they are small.....so NOW IS YOUR GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY.....reduce their numbers as much as possible on little plants by using your fingers to lightly "rub" ther undersides where you see living walking problems...do this until the babies are big enough to get a spray of the concentrates (about 1 week after transplant from clone should do it to be safe)
Now all steps will need to be CONSTANTLY REPEATED until sucess is achieved.
Sucess will eventually be achieved, NO MATTER WHAT!!!
I have used this method and developed it myself, to completely eliminate mites now 3 times from my garden. The first time was from a FULL BLOWN outbreak with clusters of mites on top of my flower tops, a sight that would bring a grown man to tears.....
I have achieved sucess where others say it's "Impossible". As a matter of fact, I have been told over 3 times by different growers that it is "Impossible" to do what I have done. Countless time i have heard mites referred to as the problem that requires such drastic solutions that you HAVE TO tear everything down.....
That's simply NOT true,just follow the instructions carefully and you'll be on your way.
Best of luck, and remember....Take NO Prisoners, and Show NO Mercy!!!!
__________________
