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MAYBERRY (BLUE STAR S1) M-22 breeders cut
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
Thank you for your detailed response.
I’m still undecided on what medium to use in the PPK system I’m going to build and note your comments with interest.
I stumbled across your “Wicked” thread last year and realised instantly that it was the inspiration that I was seeking. I sourced the best approximation of the required parts as I could and was just waiting for my then current run (dtw) to finish. I felt an anticipation and excitement I haven’t felt for many a year. Fate, as it often does, decided to play a hand though, and I found myself waking up one morning with a stiff neck. Nothing too unusual with that, as it wasn’t a particularly unusual occurrence for me. What was unusual, though, was that it just got worse and worse as the days went by until I was forced to get an MRI. Turns out I have a torn disc and bilateral stenosis, amongst other things, which is rather painful and a hindrance to manual work. I therefore decided to carry on as was until able to carry out the work required to adopt the PPK. Hopefully that time is almost upon me and I look forward to making the transition over the next few weeks.
The above may be of minimal interest to you but I just wanted to let you know that your work has put a fire back in my belly that has been missing for a good few years, and I find your posts on the PPK and LEDs very informative.
Unfortunately chunky perlite seems to be unobtainable over here, the largest size I can find is 3 - 8 mm. I was considering using a combination of perlite, coco and hydroton, though I believe that you’re using just hydroton in the tailpiece. Also, Jacks isn’t available here. I’ve contacted Haifa but they don’t seem to have any distributors anywhere near me either, I will find something, I just resent paying the inflated prices of the conventional nutrients pushed by the industry.
Regards.
I’m still undecided on what medium to use in the PPK system I’m going to build and note your comments with interest.
I stumbled across your “Wicked” thread last year and realised instantly that it was the inspiration that I was seeking. I sourced the best approximation of the required parts as I could and was just waiting for my then current run (dtw) to finish. I felt an anticipation and excitement I haven’t felt for many a year. Fate, as it often does, decided to play a hand though, and I found myself waking up one morning with a stiff neck. Nothing too unusual with that, as it wasn’t a particularly unusual occurrence for me. What was unusual, though, was that it just got worse and worse as the days went by until I was forced to get an MRI. Turns out I have a torn disc and bilateral stenosis, amongst other things, which is rather painful and a hindrance to manual work. I therefore decided to carry on as was until able to carry out the work required to adopt the PPK. Hopefully that time is almost upon me and I look forward to making the transition over the next few weeks.
The above may be of minimal interest to you but I just wanted to let you know that your work has put a fire back in my belly that has been missing for a good few years, and I find your posts on the PPK and LEDs very informative.
Unfortunately chunky perlite seems to be unobtainable over here, the largest size I can find is 3 - 8 mm. I was considering using a combination of perlite, coco and hydroton, though I believe that you’re using just hydroton in the tailpiece. Also, Jacks isn’t available here. I’ve contacted Haifa but they don’t seem to have any distributors anywhere near me either, I will find something, I just resent paying the inflated prices of the conventional nutrients pushed by the industry.
Regards.
greyfader
Well-known member
hey alpha666, thank you for the kind words!
the 3-8 mm perlite sounds good. that's about what i'm using. every perlite manufacturer uses different terms to describe their product.
float it to separate fines. the fine particles go to the bottom and the good stuff floats.
i think i have the same neck problem as you. i'm waiting on the xray report now.
i also have lumbar stenosis at 3 and 5.
let me know if you start a grow and i'll be there for questions if you like.
later
the 3-8 mm perlite sounds good. that's about what i'm using. every perlite manufacturer uses different terms to describe their product.
float it to separate fines. the fine particles go to the bottom and the good stuff floats.
i think i have the same neck problem as you. i'm waiting on the xray report now.
i also have lumbar stenosis at 3 and 5.
let me know if you start a grow and i'll be there for questions if you like.
later
Hi Delta how are u?
Nice ladies you always have
I will try to not to bother you but I have few questions for you jeje
I have Running for about a year and a half a ppk systems, before that I use for about 15 years soilless mix and a try a lot of nutrients at the end using Advanced Nutrients Connoiuser line, I change for a DWC for a brief of time because I found your hiper large tread of ppk that I start from page 1 and took about 3 month to get to the end ajajaj what a ride so decided to change to ppk asap this is what i have
2 identical rooms 4x5m aprox 2 Double ended hps mounted on a light movers, co2 enclosed
16 Sites, each one is a black square bucket and above a 4 gal round container with a 4 inch pvc pipe
Total aprox water per system 200 liters
I use Perlite with Vermiculite to contain some water I use 2.5 perlite(the same you use) to 1verm Ratio aprox and I water every 15 min for 1 min 24hrs
ALso I have an all style ppk system that I 3d printed so from cloning, vegging and flowering just easy pz ajaja thanks, would love to send you the models and pics or 3d printed parts if needed, Im redesigning the flange to conect the pvc with the container for easy handling would love your input but this for later jeje
im going to the questions because I could go on an on talking of the system jeje
QUestion 1: Im about to install a refill container and want to get the correct input PPM in flowering, they love betwenn 810 and 850 ppm, If I go below 800 they show deficiencies and if I go above 900 the got over fert on the light side burnt tips, the total water is 200 liters in 24hrs they consume 60-80 liters aprox and the ppm goes up by 50 points so if you have in hand the formula to calculate the correct input and have a stable general reservoir
question 2: Im Using jack nutrients both parts, I see that you are using yara calnit i will switch as soon as i finish the jack I se yara have more CA they will love also I see you are using more things stated in this tread a few post above would you mid to sahre brands and ratios of feedings?
question 3: In vegetative Im using Leds im preparing the nutrients with a 1:1 volume ratio and the ladies like 1000ppm and I just add A handfull of epsopm salt and they are fine but I want to know if you are putting something else on your led adventures.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge I would like to chat more and talk how easy is your ppk
Cheers
Nice ladies you always have
I will try to not to bother you but I have few questions for you jeje
I have Running for about a year and a half a ppk systems, before that I use for about 15 years soilless mix and a try a lot of nutrients at the end using Advanced Nutrients Connoiuser line, I change for a DWC for a brief of time because I found your hiper large tread of ppk that I start from page 1 and took about 3 month to get to the end ajajaj what a ride so decided to change to ppk asap this is what i have
2 identical rooms 4x5m aprox 2 Double ended hps mounted on a light movers, co2 enclosed
16 Sites, each one is a black square bucket and above a 4 gal round container with a 4 inch pvc pipe
Total aprox water per system 200 liters
I use Perlite with Vermiculite to contain some water I use 2.5 perlite(the same you use) to 1verm Ratio aprox and I water every 15 min for 1 min 24hrs
ALso I have an all style ppk system that I 3d printed so from cloning, vegging and flowering just easy pz ajaja thanks, would love to send you the models and pics or 3d printed parts if needed, Im redesigning the flange to conect the pvc with the container for easy handling would love your input but this for later jeje
im going to the questions because I could go on an on talking of the system jeje
QUestion 1: Im about to install a refill container and want to get the correct input PPM in flowering, they love betwenn 810 and 850 ppm, If I go below 800 they show deficiencies and if I go above 900 the got over fert on the light side burnt tips, the total water is 200 liters in 24hrs they consume 60-80 liters aprox and the ppm goes up by 50 points so if you have in hand the formula to calculate the correct input and have a stable general reservoir
question 2: Im Using jack nutrients both parts, I see that you are using yara calnit i will switch as soon as i finish the jack I se yara have more CA they will love also I see you are using more things stated in this tread a few post above would you mid to sahre brands and ratios of feedings?
question 3: In vegetative Im using Leds im preparing the nutrients with a 1:1 volume ratio and the ladies like 1000ppm and I just add A handfull of epsopm salt and they are fine but I want to know if you are putting something else on your led adventures.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge I would like to chat more and talk how easy is your ppk
Cheers
greyfader
Well-known member
high maco! nice to meet you and thank you for trying this system and for the kind words.
sounds like a nice setup you have. i would love to see what you have done.
"QUestion 1: Im about to install a refill container and want to get the correct input PPM in flowering, they love betwenn 810 and 850 ppm, If I go below 800 they show deficiencies and if I go above 900 the got over fert on the light side burnt tips, the total water is 200 liters in 24hrs they consume 60-80 liters aprox and the ppm goes up by 50 points so if you have in hand the formula to calculate the correct input and have a stable general reservoir"
this sounds like you are not using a float valve to control the water level and not feeding from an elevated tank.
the ppk can be operated that way. i assume you are topping off and correcting daily?
if so, you are doing a lot of unnecessary extra work.
i designed this system to create extreme long-term solution stability when using the elevated volume tank and a float valve.
the grow I just did here was done with absolutely no solution removed for the entire grow. input only.
the ph has floated back and forth between 5.7-6.1 without any adjustment from me.
if i may make another assumption. when your ppm goes up your ph goes down?
using a float valve does more than just keep the proper water level in this device.
it also functions as a nutrient injector system.
the system has two bodies of solution. one is the recirculating part on the floor and the other is the elevated volume tank.
as the recirculating part is consumed by transpiration and evaporation the float valve is continuously correcting the recirculating solution by feeding unused solution into the recirc reservoir.
continuously blending fresh, ph-corrected solution into the reservoir.
since you are using jack's 5-12-26 i again assume that you are familiar with the 3-2-1 feed formula.
per gal of water, which is 3.785 liters you add 3gr jacks, then the 1gr mag sulfate, and lastly the calcinit.
it's important to mix in this order to prevent a precipitation event.
so, i start every new grow by mixing the nutrients in the recirc reservoir in place.
then i fill the elevated volume tank with the same solution.
the 3-2-1 will come out to around 1000 ppm or ec2.
i start 7-8" rooted clones in this. i get no overferting issues at all. just rapid green growth. lush growth.
the best practice for operating this system is to observe the trend of the recirc reservoir.
first, i want to say before i forget, that the solution strength during veg and for the first 2.5 weeks of flower during the stretch phase, will be pulled down sharply because of the heavy consumption of nitrogen.
after this phase the same solution will be pulled upward in solution strength.
when in the veg stage using high-intensity lights you will input 1000 ppm but when you read it in the recirc reservoir it can be as low as 600ppm.
sometimes people freak out a little and radically increase the strength in the recirc part but really this is a perfectly normal condition in veg under high-intensity lighting.
it just means the plants are functioning at a high metabolic rate and are rapidly pulling nutrients out of the solution.
the best practice is to let the elevated tank and float valve continuously adjust the solution for you.
i don't use or recommend add-back or topping strategies in this device. i feed everything from the elevated tank. i don't partially top the elevated tank either. i let it run completely out before filling and mixing nutrients again.
back to observing trends. it is common in flower, especially late flower, for the solution to rise too high in strength.
i don't let it get over about 1200 ppm in the recirc part. the best practice for controlling this accumulation in flower is to use a lower input strength when you mix the next load in the elevated volume tank.
for example, you might want 1000ppm but you are showing 1100ppm. so when mixing the next tank you cut the overall strength of the starting 3-2-1 solution by using 90% of the 3-2-1.
if it is 1200 ppm and you want it to trend towards 1000ppm you might cut the 3-2-1 to 80%, and so on.
this is called steering the solution. it works not only with nutrient strength but also ph control.
if your ph is trending upward you use a little more ph down than the starting dose.
i like to set everything first at 5.8 ph and then observe the recirc solution again. if it is steadily creeping up you use a little more ph down. if it is trending downward you use a little less.
again, mixing in the elevated tank, not the recirc reservoir.
there is nothing wrong with mixing 5-5.2 ph in the elevated tank if that is what it takes to keep the recirc solution between about 5.7- 6.2. but mix at 5.8 the first time as a reference point.
i use 85% phosphoric acid as ph down.
never use ph up in this device. if you have a condition where the ph is falling sharply and continuously you have some kind of issue and should dump the reservoir and start over again with a fresh solution.
i don't keep any ph up in stock.
if you are using RO water you may not need to use PH correctors at all.
i hope this answers question #1 for you. i'll be back later to answer the others.
sounds like a nice setup you have. i would love to see what you have done.
"QUestion 1: Im about to install a refill container and want to get the correct input PPM in flowering, they love betwenn 810 and 850 ppm, If I go below 800 they show deficiencies and if I go above 900 the got over fert on the light side burnt tips, the total water is 200 liters in 24hrs they consume 60-80 liters aprox and the ppm goes up by 50 points so if you have in hand the formula to calculate the correct input and have a stable general reservoir"
this sounds like you are not using a float valve to control the water level and not feeding from an elevated tank.
the ppk can be operated that way. i assume you are topping off and correcting daily?
if so, you are doing a lot of unnecessary extra work.
i designed this system to create extreme long-term solution stability when using the elevated volume tank and a float valve.
the grow I just did here was done with absolutely no solution removed for the entire grow. input only.
the ph has floated back and forth between 5.7-6.1 without any adjustment from me.
if i may make another assumption. when your ppm goes up your ph goes down?
using a float valve does more than just keep the proper water level in this device.
it also functions as a nutrient injector system.
the system has two bodies of solution. one is the recirculating part on the floor and the other is the elevated volume tank.
as the recirculating part is consumed by transpiration and evaporation the float valve is continuously correcting the recirculating solution by feeding unused solution into the recirc reservoir.
continuously blending fresh, ph-corrected solution into the reservoir.
since you are using jack's 5-12-26 i again assume that you are familiar with the 3-2-1 feed formula.
per gal of water, which is 3.785 liters you add 3gr jacks, then the 1gr mag sulfate, and lastly the calcinit.
it's important to mix in this order to prevent a precipitation event.
so, i start every new grow by mixing the nutrients in the recirc reservoir in place.
then i fill the elevated volume tank with the same solution.
the 3-2-1 will come out to around 1000 ppm or ec2.
i start 7-8" rooted clones in this. i get no overferting issues at all. just rapid green growth. lush growth.
the best practice for operating this system is to observe the trend of the recirc reservoir.
first, i want to say before i forget, that the solution strength during veg and for the first 2.5 weeks of flower during the stretch phase, will be pulled down sharply because of the heavy consumption of nitrogen.
after this phase the same solution will be pulled upward in solution strength.
when in the veg stage using high-intensity lights you will input 1000 ppm but when you read it in the recirc reservoir it can be as low as 600ppm.
sometimes people freak out a little and radically increase the strength in the recirc part but really this is a perfectly normal condition in veg under high-intensity lighting.
it just means the plants are functioning at a high metabolic rate and are rapidly pulling nutrients out of the solution.
the best practice is to let the elevated tank and float valve continuously adjust the solution for you.
i don't use or recommend add-back or topping strategies in this device. i feed everything from the elevated tank. i don't partially top the elevated tank either. i let it run completely out before filling and mixing nutrients again.
back to observing trends. it is common in flower, especially late flower, for the solution to rise too high in strength.
i don't let it get over about 1200 ppm in the recirc part. the best practice for controlling this accumulation in flower is to use a lower input strength when you mix the next load in the elevated volume tank.
for example, you might want 1000ppm but you are showing 1100ppm. so when mixing the next tank you cut the overall strength of the starting 3-2-1 solution by using 90% of the 3-2-1.
if it is 1200 ppm and you want it to trend towards 1000ppm you might cut the 3-2-1 to 80%, and so on.
this is called steering the solution. it works not only with nutrient strength but also ph control.
if your ph is trending upward you use a little more ph down than the starting dose.
i like to set everything first at 5.8 ph and then observe the recirc solution again. if it is steadily creeping up you use a little more ph down. if it is trending downward you use a little less.
again, mixing in the elevated tank, not the recirc reservoir.
there is nothing wrong with mixing 5-5.2 ph in the elevated tank if that is what it takes to keep the recirc solution between about 5.7- 6.2. but mix at 5.8 the first time as a reference point.
i use 85% phosphoric acid as ph down.
never use ph up in this device. if you have a condition where the ph is falling sharply and continuously you have some kind of issue and should dump the reservoir and start over again with a fresh solution.
i don't keep any ph up in stock.
if you are using RO water you may not need to use PH correctors at all.
i hope this answers question #1 for you. i'll be back later to answer the others.
Last edited:
greyfader
Well-known member
"question 2: Im Using jack nutrients both parts, I see that you are using yara calnit i will switch as soon as i finish the jack I se yara have more CA they will love also I see you are using more things stated in this tread a few post above would you mid to sahre brands and ratios of feedings?"
when mixing nutrients, after the jack's, calcinit, and epsom salts, i add to the liquid feed, per 30 gallons,
30 ml of Mr Fulvic or 1ml per gal.
then a heaping teaspoon of soluble seaweed powder. i'm using Maxicrop. per 30 gals.
i ph correct it all together.
i fill the grow container with straight perlite first.
then i put about 3/8 to 1/2" layer of worm castings on top and using gloved hands i mix it into about the top 2-2.5" with claw fingers.
in the grow above i used an 8 oz cup of diatomaceous earth on top of the 6 gals of medium and i work it into about the top 1/2".
the top watering works it into the system with each watering. when i de-pot the roots there are visible worm castings and DE in the medium as well as in the reservoir pool below.
that's it.
i tried vermiculite earlier and i don't recommend you use it with the DE as together they can form a dense, hard mass in the medium.
there are two negatives when using perlite alone. it has no cation exchange capacity. and it dries down too rapidly. too airy.
both the worm castings and the DE have significant cec's.
and topdressing the perlite like this helps retain moisture in the top of the container. the roots move into the top area of the container rapidly.
the DE is a proven, readily available source of silicate for the plant.
and it's a great non-toxic pest control tool. no fungus gnats at all.
the best part is that all this shit is cheap.
when mixing nutrients, after the jack's, calcinit, and epsom salts, i add to the liquid feed, per 30 gallons,
30 ml of Mr Fulvic or 1ml per gal.
then a heaping teaspoon of soluble seaweed powder. i'm using Maxicrop. per 30 gals.
i ph correct it all together.
i fill the grow container with straight perlite first.
then i put about 3/8 to 1/2" layer of worm castings on top and using gloved hands i mix it into about the top 2-2.5" with claw fingers.
in the grow above i used an 8 oz cup of diatomaceous earth on top of the 6 gals of medium and i work it into about the top 1/2".
the top watering works it into the system with each watering. when i de-pot the roots there are visible worm castings and DE in the medium as well as in the reservoir pool below.
that's it.
i tried vermiculite earlier and i don't recommend you use it with the DE as together they can form a dense, hard mass in the medium.
there are two negatives when using perlite alone. it has no cation exchange capacity. and it dries down too rapidly. too airy.
both the worm castings and the DE have significant cec's.
and topdressing the perlite like this helps retain moisture in the top of the container. the roots move into the top area of the container rapidly.
the DE is a proven, readily available source of silicate for the plant.
and it's a great non-toxic pest control tool. no fungus gnats at all.
the best part is that all this shit is cheap.
greyfader
Well-known member
"question 3: In vegetative Im using Leds im preparing the nutrients with a 1:1 volume ratio and the ladies like 1000ppm and I just add A handfull of epsopm salt and they are fine but I want to know if you are putting something else on your led adventures."
i would use the 3-2-1 formula. i measure with a gram scale. it will come out to about 1000ppm at the .5 conversion or ec2.
nothing else is used throughout the life of the plant. only the ingredients listed.
i want to make it clear that i never, at any time, removed any solution from this system. input only from the 7" clone to the finished flower.
30 days of veg and 56 days of flower totaling 86 days of continuous liquid feed.
very low labor inputs, very conservative on water and nutes, and extreme solution stability over long periods of time.
i would use the 3-2-1 formula. i measure with a gram scale. it will come out to about 1000ppm at the .5 conversion or ec2.
nothing else is used throughout the life of the plant. only the ingredients listed.
i want to make it clear that i never, at any time, removed any solution from this system. input only from the 7" clone to the finished flower.
30 days of veg and 56 days of flower totaling 86 days of continuous liquid feed.
very low labor inputs, very conservative on water and nutes, and extreme solution stability over long periods of time.
Hi Delta how are you?
Thanks for the responses, And lets say im lazy
and wanted to hold the wheel of the ppk just to feel it and know it, im ready for autopilot, Im toping with straight RO water or with nuts but believe this is nothing compared to hand watering every girl jejeje
And like you I never change water only refill acordingly and I also dont have ph problems, the first week of transplant the ph rise I guess is the vermiculite but after the week i get it around 5.8-.9 its stays there for the rest of the grow and the water I top I put as is no ph adjusted and cero problems
Im taking notes of your responses to apply, also I will make a new thread in the growings system of the forum to show the ppk that I have and get your input i will let you know because dont want to hijack your thread.
Thanks read you soon
Thanks for the responses, And lets say im lazy
and wanted to hold the wheel of the ppk just to feel it and know it, im ready for autopilot, Im toping with straight RO water or with nuts but believe this is nothing compared to hand watering every girl jejejeAnd like you I never change water only refill acordingly and I also dont have ph problems, the first week of transplant the ph rise I guess is the vermiculite but after the week i get it around 5.8-.9 its stays there for the rest of the grow and the water I top I put as is no ph adjusted and cero problems
Im taking notes of your responses to apply, also I will make a new thread in the growings system of the forum to show the ppk that I have and get your input i will let you know because dont want to hijack your thread.
Thanks read you soon
are you using the window screen at the bottom of the tailpiece?
greyfader
Well-known member
hey buddy, yes except don't use regular window insect screen as it can clog.
this is vent screen from lowes. it's fiberglass with about a 1/8" mesh i cut them to fit the inside of a 2" or larger tube or ziptie the material outside using 1.5" tube.
Attachments
thanks!
