Maxibloom or Flora Nova: better ph buffering?

[Carl Carlson]

Someone posted links to the results of the tests done by Canada. Apparently they test nutrients to be sure they match what the label guarantees is in the bottle.

I don't know where the links are (last week or something) but when you look up FNB it has "Potting Mix" as one of the ingredients.

According to that same fertilizer database from the state of Oregon, Pure Blend Pro grow contains potting mix too. They don't seem to have the listing for PBP bloom hydro.

http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=211

 

[slowandeasy]

Been using Maxi-Bloom this whole run. Like it better than FNB for DWC, way more clean rez and very stable. Tip, pre-mix your Maxi-Bloom a day ahead...to make sure it fully dissolves. Also, been using Magi-Cal @ 100 ppm. This has helped with the minor spotting from cal-mag def, as my strain is a cal mag whore. Also going to try Floralicious+ next run as a side by side. Good luck

 

[Guest 18340]

I use Maxibloom and Floralicous+ exclusively and am blown away every time I harvest.
I'm sure I could pull slightly more weight if i use other brands or formulas, but it does not get anymore idiot proof than Maxibloom, imho...

 

[Carl Carlson]

ok I just checked a few other products.

According to the Oregon database, both Calmag+ (Botanicare) and Thrive Alive Green (TechnaFlora) contain "potting mix" too.

 

[slowandeasy]

I use Maxibloom and Floralicous+ exclusively and am blown away every time I harvest.
I'm sure I could pull slightly more weight if i use other brands or formulas, but it does not get anymore idiot proof than Maxibloom, imho...

What methods have you used Maxi-Bloom in? I think you do Coco right? Do you ever veg with it? Gonna get some Floralicous+, do you use it the whole grow?

 

[dongle69]

That Oregon database is screwed.
There is no potting mix in FloraNova or Pure Blend Pro, or the other products they are listing.

 

[Guest 18340]

What methods have you used Maxi-Bloom in? I think you do Coco right? Do you ever veg with it? Gonna get some Floralicous+, do you use it the whole grow?

Yes, I veg with it to. I use it the same way one would use Lucas's 8/16 ratio, from beginning to end.
I do use coco, i've also used it in soil with as good results as anything else I use in soil.

 

[Carl Carlson]

That Oregon database is screwed.
There is no potting mix in FloraNova or Pure Blend Pro, or the other products they are listing.

i agree with you. these listings can't be right. they've got potting mix, IBAA and NAA as non plant food ingredients in way too many products on the list.

 

[*mistress*]

from imagination, w/ tap water ~6.5, 1 tbsp/gal, all gh:

flora nova bloom - 5.9-6.2 ph
maxi bloom - 5.2-5.7 ph
bio thrive bloom - 6.2-6.5+ ph...

'potting mix'?

maybe not...
maybe they make flora nova that thick to deter precipitation...

from: Nutrient Binding
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3151227&postcount=6

Why are some nutrients split into an “A” and “B” formulas?

Nutrients are split into two formulations because the phosphorus, calcium and sulfur nutrients need to be separated from each other. If this is not done, then the calcium and phosphorus, as well as the calcium and sulfur, in high concentrations, will react with each other to form calcium phosphate (cement) and calcium sulfate (gypsum). Both calcium phosphate and calcium sulfate precipitate out of solution, forming a white precipitate (which will usually fall to the bottom of the reservoir), and are unavailable to the plants. This will cause phosphorus, calcium and sulfur deficiencies in the plant. Once these nutrients are mixed together in the reservoir they are at lower concentrations and also a pH balanced nutrient mix will prevent the three nutrients from reacting with each other. This is another reason why balancing pH is extremely important.

Some nutrients are one part such as FloraNova Grow and Bloom, are extremely thick and need to be shaken well before mixing into the reservoir. If these nutrients aren’t shaken well before use then the precipitates that have formed at the bottom of the bottle aren’t remixed into solution. This will cause deficiencies, slow growth and reduced yields.

Some nutrients also come in three parts. This is done with some brands of hobby hydroponic nutrient formulas so that the grower can mix the three parts in different ratios to create different solutions for the vegetative and bloom stages, as well as for different types of plants, without having to switch to a different product. Most commercial formulas, however, are two part (you’ll never see a commercial hydroponic farm using a one or three part nutrient formula; they are primarily for hobby growers).

they make fnb thick to prevent precipitation...
bottle instructions for gh seem to work very well.

either w/ small dosage (1 tsp/gal), or larger dosage (1 tbsp/gal)... or middle of 2 tsp/gal... hard to make general nute regime, because every cultivar different.

some 100% i, that only get 18" after 10 wk 2k veg, only like 700 ppm/1.0 ec...

other, can push to 2500ppm/3.6 ec... depend. run same cut over/over, over & find regime for ea. if run diff cut every cycle, maybe 1 tsp/gal to start.

enjoy your garden!

 

[dongle69]

Yes, most one part nutrients are thick because they contain a binding agent, usually a polysaccharide solution.

 

[*mistress*]

Yes, most one part nutrients are thick because they contain a binding agent, usually a polysaccharide solution.

partially to keep micronutrients suspended in solution. as same occurs in molasses. ieg, sugar matter (content) holds mineral matter in solution, & vice versa, seemingly...

generic molasses data:

During the crystallisation cycles the reducing sugars increase to such an extent that no more sucrose can be crystallised, because reducing sugars decrease the solubility of sucrose. Mineral matter tends to hold sucrose in solution, so it is the balance of reducing sugar and mineral matter that determines the theoretical yield of sucrose from sugar cane. The residual syrup is very often referred to as blackstrap molasses.

they want sucrose for sugar, remainder & technically, blackstrap molasses, or what remains of combined mineral+reducing sugar...

Sugars — Total Sugars as Invert (TSAI) — Even though sugar is the primary material extracted from the condensed syrup, a great deal of unextractable sugar is still left in molasses. The sugar level remaining in molasses is generally expressed as TSAI.
What does TSAI mean? Most naturally-occuring sugars exist as single sugar molecules (monosaccharides), or as disaccharides (two sugar molecules joined together). The ratio of monosaccharides and disaccharides in molasses and other
liquids varies. In order to compare molasses with different proportions of monosaccharides and disaccharides, all the disaccharides are hydrolyzed to monosaccharides [by the addition of a molecule of water] is added to replace the
bond between the two sugars.

C12H22O11 + H2O ———— > C6H12O6 + C6H12O6
Atomic 342 sugar+ 360 sugar
Weights 18 water

note that fert comps using poly-saccharrides, instead on mono, but do same function...

& seemingly, why some fert companies add molasses to their solutions, though they @ moments, hesitate to admit this simple chem process, & careful how they admit:
general organics, camg+, calcium magnesium supplement, label:

derived from:
Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, molasses

&

CaMg+ is a blend of fermented calcium and magnesium complexed with organic acids and sugar chelates. These low molecular weight acids may facilitate calcium and magnesium transport into the plant.

key terms being chelating agent (molasses) & interesting they actually put term 'may' on label...

so, sugars seem to hold the required nutrients in solution, w/out allowing them to interact badly (precipitation), & also helps them get thru the cell walls of plants roots/leaves... humic acid also is chelating agent... technically, molasses is a humic acid, as it is simply the 'humus', or remains of the suagr-making process, which comes from sugar cane plants... humus being decaying orgainc matter... the liquid from that, the acid...

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!

 

[mikecar312]

maxibloom seems to be the most cost effective. i did the math according to gh's recommended feed schedule and a 16lb bag ($130 retail) can feed both of my 70 gal reservoirs for a whole year with res changes every 2 weeks. the flora series costs me about $350 a year with res changes every 2 weeks.

 

[Castelvetro]

iim on my second run of floranova bloom as a one part, and a first run with the flora series. i think the most practical and stoner friendly sounds like the maxi bloom though, no shake like floranova, and no hard labour like the flora series that requires two yes two bottles, plus stoners now we wont spill wet stuff, its dry.

 

[serelepe22]

UUUUP!

I used FNB for 2 years now, in soil, hempy bucket and now im starting a DWC

its works great, but i had to dilute the whole bottle with RO water to mix!