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Master Kush bag seed from dispensery.

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Thanks, I was really hoping to have you on to watch this grow but she turned out to be a he. Chopped him up this morning. I'll let you know when I have another plant growing with mainly Foliage Pro...

Your plant looks about as healthy as a plant can get, nice. I'll have to read up on Osmocote, never heard of it. So I guess your off the foliage pro?

Now, I swear I have root aphids.... I found a fly in one of my traps and its not looking good. Yep, maybe I am giving a little too much TLC and now I'm a grower/hypochondriac. I think I have every disease and pest there is...

Root aphids might explain why my plants yellow mid flower. This is my main obstacle at the moment, figuring out the last few weeks of flower....


Week 5 flower (my second grow, my latest arent this bad but I still feel something is wrong)
View attachment 18909568

Week 7

View attachment 18909569


Week 8

View attachment 18909571

All gardeners are afraid of doing the "aw shit"s now and then, especially when tackling something new. Try putting in acres of an ag crop for the first time hoping it works out. (and it did)

Relax, you're doing great.

Stressed/necrotic leaf tips suggests salts burn. Less is more like I said. Don't over feed your faves.

I have many foods based on what I'm doing and my target. Osmocote or any of the slow release prills are maintenance free. I use them on my greenhouse trees and pots like pineapples/herbs/maters and on any newly planted field tree including grape vines. Once applied all you is water. I've grown outdoor cannabis and used Osmocote. Some brands include Polyon and Nutricote.

Osmocote.jpg


Orange variety I grafted on a key lime tree. That tree gets about 14 oz. in February only. As with trees, it's hard to burn plants including cannabis since it's slow release.

CitrusMarch6.jpg

Polyonsend.jpg


UB
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Wrote this ditty years ago, is still at some forums.

Plant Moisture Stress - symptoms and solutions (revised May 30, 2011)

Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems: "Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!" or, "My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?" Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell exactly what the culprit is, and unfortunately the solution the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis‑diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I'll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

1. Over‑fertilizing ‑ the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, leaf tip curl/burn and copper colored round spots is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant's tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the PPM imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root's epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks ‑ as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leech (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

2. High Heat ‑ the plant is losing water via it's leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad‑bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels ‑ the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish‑green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located to close to HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.

3. High Light ‑ yes, it's true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand‑in‑hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receives less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.

4. Overwatering ‑ this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. A lot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes as a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

5. Underwatering ‑ not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (1 teaspoon per gallon of liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift ‑ it's time to water. Don't wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. Soil should stay moist (not wet) at all times. Wet/dry cycles cause more problems than you think they might solve.

Happy gardening,

Uncle Ben
 

singlecoiled

Active member
All gardeners are afraid of doing the "aw shit"s now and then, especially when tackling something new. Try putting in acres of an ag crop for the first time hoping it works out. (and it did)

Relax, you're doing great.

Stressed/necrotic leaf tips suggests salts burn. Less is more like I said. Don't over feed your faves.

I have many foods based on what I'm doing and my target. Osmocote or any of the slow release prills are maintenance free. I use them on my greenhouse trees and pots like pineapples/herbs/maters and on any newly planted field tree including grape vines. Once applied all you is water. I've grown outdoor cannabis and used Osmocote. Some brands include Polyon and Nutricote.

View attachment 18909788

Orange variety I grafted on a key lime tree. That tree gets about 14 oz. in February only. As with trees, it's hard to burn plants including cannabis since it's slow release.

View attachment 18909789

View attachment 18909801

UB

Nice, I grow one plant at a time in a very small space. That bag would last me for a few centuries !

Thanks for the tip on over application of salts, you hit the nail right in the head ! I was following bro science on my second grow and using Cha Ching, Open Sesame, and Beastie Bloomz on top of full strenght Fox Farm nutrients. It was around this time that I read your posts and I picked up Dynagrow. My plants are doing MUCH better, but I think I've gone in the opposite direction and have been underfeeding mid to late flower.

I'm adjusting my lights and have been backing them off a bit. I may try less power next grow to see if I can reduce yellowing in flower. I have a feeling your right on target here. May try flower at 90% power this go.

Your tips on watering are great, I'm learning but I dont care what anyone says, watering is NOT an easy thing and it takes time to understand drainage, salt buildup, and how a simple gardening pot works like a whick. My tip to new growers who almost always over water is this... I tell them to kill their plant by not watering it.. In many cases a whole week or more goes by without any water and guess what. The plant gets healthier and healther ! Its very easy to overwater...I'm still f-ing up and I know better.

Fail safe watering method for me is a scale. I weigh wet and dry and know exactly how much water is in the pot. (Ive gotten to the point where I dont need a scale, I just know by picking the pot up, but this took time.

Thanks again for the Dynagrow tip. Learning from you, I could really use any good nutrient line. I'm learning how to listen to my plants and understanding what they really need. I just dont like paying for the cool labels with a dog wearing a hat etc...

Dynagrow (or something like jacks)= coffee...... You grind it up, add boiling water and you have great coffee.... VERY CHEAP

Bro Science Nutrients= Keurig cup. Thats right, they figured out a way to charge 20X the price for something that should be cheap. Its just coffee.
 
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singlecoiled

Active member
Soaked a Northern Lights seed from Nirvana last night. I germinate one seed at a time and so far every Nirvana seed has popped. The seed I soaked last night I've had for years, we'll see. I'm impressed with Nirvana, not sure why they have a bad reputation.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Trust me on this one - if you have plenty of root and foliage mass it is almost impossible to over water cannabis. The wicking power of the roots and transpiration will be at such a high rate you'll be watering often, maybe even twice daily. Overwatering is not the issue. The exclusion of air is.

DO NOT let the soil get dry cause when you do you create a condition whereby it is very hard to retain the moisture holding capacity of the soil especially in peat based soils. You'll also create dry pockets throughout the rootball. If the rootball has pulled away from the side of the pot, it's no bueno. Best re-hydration method is to fill up a sink, set the pot in it and fill up the sink until the water soaks up thru the drain holes, bottom up, NOT top down this time. Some Ivory liquid soap (not Dawn, please) squirted/mixed in acts as a surfactant releasing the soil particle tension which is repelling water. It's a like/like ion thingie. Remember, opposites attract.

Again, just use one complete (9-13) elements) product and quick fucking around with all the bro science stuff LOL. :D Most of the stuff you see around here looks like its been abused....according to what's popular.

You're on the right track when it comes to weaning yourself off forum mindset.....

Good luck,
UB
 
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singlecoiled

Active member
Trust me on this one - if you have plenty of root and foliage mass it is almost impossible to over water cannabis. The wicking power of the roots and transpiration will be at such a high rate you'll be watering often, maybe even twice daily. Overwatering is not the issue. The exclusion of air is.

DO NOT let the soil get dry cause when you do you create a condition whereby it is very hard to retain the moisture holding capacity of the soil especially in peat based soils. You'll also create dry pockets throughout the rootball. If the rootball has pulled away from the side of the pot, it's no bueno. Best re-hydration method is to fill up a sink, set the pot in it and fill up the sink until the water soaks up thru the drain holes, bottom up, NOT top down this time. Some Ivory liquid soap (not Dawn, please) squirted/mixed in acts as a surfactant releasing the soil particle tension which is repelling water. It's a like/like ion thingie. Remember, opposites attract.

Again, just use one complete (9-13) elements) product and quick fucking around with all the bro science stuff LOL. :D Most of the stuff you see around here looks like its been abused....according to what's popular.

You're on the right track when it comes to weaning yourself off forum mindset.....

Good luck,
UB

Thanks, and yes I do tend to let things dry out quite a bit. Maybe I'm still learning but I swear the extra dry days do the plant good. If in doubt, I always go an extra day without water. Sigh, I guess I still have learning to do..

When I said I told someone to kill their plant by not watering, it was actually a good tip. Extreme over watering would have killed their plant anyway but the point is that many dont realize how much water some soil can hold.

My second grow, I weighed my pot at 11 pounds dry, out of the Fox Farm bag. Not totally dry, but not drenched either. My plants were suffering a bit, seemed to slow down a bit after watering, so I decided to see if she would dry out more than 11 pounds before watering.... 3 days later I weighed without watering and the soil came in at around 7 pounds. (and the plant was happy as a clam).. (note: dry weight out of bag 11 pounds, watered around 14-15 pounds. Dried out to 7 pounds.... Thats a lot of water, maybe not enough perlite..... in the end I was watering at around 8 pounds and all went well from then on.

Again, just use one complete (9-13) elements) product and quick fucking around with all the bro science stuff LOL. :D Most of the stuff you see around here looks like its been abused....according to what's popular.

Thanks, I've been listening ! Foliage Pro should cover this...


Best re-hydration method is to fill up a sink, set the pot in it and fill up the sink until the water soaks up thru the drain holes, bottom up, NOT top down this time. Some Ivory liquid soap (not Dawn, please) squirted/mixed in acts as a surfactant releasing the soil particle tension which is repelling water. It's a like/like ion thingie. Remember, opposites attract.

Thanks, I'll try this. This one goes in my grower notes, never seen it.
 
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CharlesU Farley

Well-known member
Nice, I grow one plant at a time in a very small space. That bag would last me for a few I'm a bit pressed for time right now
I'm pressed for time right now but someone I respect referred me to this thread. I grew in a 2x5-ft closet with a thousand watt MH light for decades. I know how to get the maximum amount of cannabis out of a minimal amount of space.

When I've got a little bit more time, I'll respond more in depth.
 

singlecoiled

Active member
I'm pressed for time right now but someone I respect referred me to this thread. I grew in a 2x5-ft closet with a thousand watt MH light for decades. I know how to get the maximum amount of cannabis out of a minimal amount of space.

When I've got a little bit more time, I'll respond more in depth.

Thanks much, glad to know Im not alone using a small space. I like the challenge!

This grow is stopped for now, it turned out male but I have a seed starting. (fem this time) So no worries if your busy.

Much appreciated ! I cant believe how good the people are here, so many silly posts from me and I havent been roasted yet. Its not like this on other forums-----
 
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William76

Well-known member
Yea,killing the 2 at the start was ur mistake,bet 1 was a female,with regs or unknown sex seeds,plant a few extra,u can sex them before they get to big,76
 

William76

Well-known member
It's also strain dependant,some strains u can tell sex in veg after 4/5 weeks(Cindy 99 etc,)and other strains like haze etc can take till a few weeks into flower to tell sex,76.
 

singlecoiled

Active member
It's also strain dependant,some strains u can tell sex in veg after 4/5 weeks(Cindy 99 etc,)and other strains like haze etc can take till a few weeks into flower to tell sex,76.

Its also IDIOT dependant too.... When you do this, you chop all the preflowers off and it takes A LOT more time to determine sex... It took 9 weeks Veg for the first pre flower to show and I had to go 12/12 ... I only had two pre flowers on the entire plant when I learned it was male...

Note to self.... (idiot) DONT ever do this again with a reg seed ! Its a shame too, I was liking the way the tri spoke manifold was coming along.... The plant was about to explode.


5th.JPG
 
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mack 10

Resin Herder
Veteran
Its also IDIOT dependant too.... When you do this, you chop all the preflowers off and it takes A LOT more time to determine sex... It took 9 weeks Veg for the first pre flower to show and I had to go 12/12 ... I only had two pre flowers on the entire plant when I learned it was male...

Note to self.... (idiot) DONT ever do this again with a reg seed ! Its a shame too, I was liking the way the tri spoke manifold was coming along.... The plant was about to explode.


View attachment 18910308
Also a lot of the plants hormones are at the top of the plant, so chopping it down could of confused it.
 

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