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Manure tea and miracle gro
- Thread starter yourbuddy
- Start date
analogcricket
Member
Personally, I'd use the manure tea and dump the Miracle Grow! I would rather stick to the organic but thats just my two cents. Mix the two and I'll bet you burn your girls.
Yeah...mixing the two together....'burnville'. I let manure tea stand for a few days then use a paint mixer (you can stir manually, as well) to mix up, create oxygen before pouring on plants. Then water, using manure tea every 4th or so watering. Better to go weak on tea than too hot and have your plants fry.
Light tan/brown water color....good.
Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method.
Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals.
Quick method – For the quick method, steep one ounce of nettles in one cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method.
Long range method – You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill ¾ of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process.
Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals.
Quick method – For the quick method, steep one ounce of nettles in one cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method.
Long range method – You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill ¾ of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process.
Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
analogcricket
Member
thanks aridbud,
just wondering what the benefits of nettle are?
just wondering what the benefits of nettle are?
Nettle particularly as tea has the highest amount of N available in a green plant around 12% , also the highest amount of digestable iron from any plant . Obviously the N isn't as high as a chem but nettle also has a very wide range of trace elements & minerals that plants seem to love . For flower Comfrey is the best .
You will not find a better organic feed for canna , in fact some years ago on the UK Outdoor thread I challenged anyone to beat me using chems v my organics on growth rates , no one managed to beat me on plant or yield .
analogcricket
Member
any info on the comfrey? should i tea with it in flower as well?
awesome thanks!!
I have also read that young stingin nettles have a lot of some plant hormones that are said to promote growth. I do not know if this is true, but i have used it on outdoor autoflowers and i saw greener plants and less disease on the leafs. I used the stining nettles in bucket method and let it stay 7-14 days then mixing it with water again to control the strenght.
At latitute 61 its hard for me to say if it increases yield as i am still experimenting with getting good strains to finnish without mold or other problems. But i noticed atleast less disease wich in my case increases yield.
At latitute 61 its hard for me to say if it increases yield as i am still experimenting with getting good strains to finnish without mold or other problems. But i noticed atleast less disease wich in my case increases yield.
Comfrey....hmmmmm. Sounds good to me!! Being avid organics....saw this, and being inquisitive...;o)....found on garden.about.com:
Comfrey is a tall, perennial, herb plant, also known as boneset because it was used to heal broken bones. In fact, the word comfrey comes from the Latin word for "grow together. It is a member of the Boraginaceae family, which also include borage, forget-me-nots, lungwort and Brunnera. ........................
"With its deep taproot, and large root system, comfrey pulls its nutrients from way down in the subsoil, where most other plants can't reach. Comfrey is high in just about every nutrient a plant needs, including the big 3, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium and many trace elements.
Its high carbon to nitrogen value means that it does not deplete nitrogen from the soil, as it decomposes. In fact, it becomes a good source of nitrogen. And it has more potassium than composted manure. ..........
To use on established plants, dilute 1 part comfrey fertilizer in 15 parts water. Use to water and to foliar feed your plants. When feeding young plants whose roots could be damaged by strong fertilizer, you may want to dilute it further.
Two alternative methods.
1.Drill a hole in the bottom of the large container, before adding the leaves. Place a smaller container under the hole in the larger container, to catch the drippings.
2.You could add some water to steep the leaves in, but this producing a very strong odor. You are basically allowing the leaves to rot in the water and the high nitrogen content in the leaves assists in rapid rotting. Since this solution is already somewhat diluted, you will only need to mix this liquid with 3 parts water. Used straight, it can be too strong for the roots.
To lessen the odor, use a container with a top. A top and a spigot would be ideal.
•Used as Mulch Add a layer of leaves as a mulch, at the base of plants and in planting beds. You can chop them first, to speed their decomposition, or leave them whole. If the leaves are dry and try to fly away, wet them down and top them off with a layer of compost.
•In Compost You can toss excess comfrey leaves and plants into your compost and still benefit from the released nutrients, when you use your finished compost. This is the best use of the stalks. It even acts as an activator and helps to speed up the composting process.
•In the Soil Line the bottom of planting holes and even containers with a couple of leaves, then plant as you normally would. The leaves will slowly decompose and release their nutrients - with no odor.
•Leaf Mold Because comfrey leaves decompose into a liquid, they cannot be used alone, to make leaf mold. However mixed with other types of shredded leaves they will again act as an accelerator and you will have lovely, earthy, nutrient rich leaf mold in record time. Leaf mold can be used as a fertilizer, a side dressing or even a potting soil.
Comfrey is a tall, perennial, herb plant, also known as boneset because it was used to heal broken bones. In fact, the word comfrey comes from the Latin word for "grow together. It is a member of the Boraginaceae family, which also include borage, forget-me-nots, lungwort and Brunnera. ........................
"With its deep taproot, and large root system, comfrey pulls its nutrients from way down in the subsoil, where most other plants can't reach. Comfrey is high in just about every nutrient a plant needs, including the big 3, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium and many trace elements.
Its high carbon to nitrogen value means that it does not deplete nitrogen from the soil, as it decomposes. In fact, it becomes a good source of nitrogen. And it has more potassium than composted manure. ..........
To use on established plants, dilute 1 part comfrey fertilizer in 15 parts water. Use to water and to foliar feed your plants. When feeding young plants whose roots could be damaged by strong fertilizer, you may want to dilute it further.
Two alternative methods.
1.Drill a hole in the bottom of the large container, before adding the leaves. Place a smaller container under the hole in the larger container, to catch the drippings.
2.You could add some water to steep the leaves in, but this producing a very strong odor. You are basically allowing the leaves to rot in the water and the high nitrogen content in the leaves assists in rapid rotting. Since this solution is already somewhat diluted, you will only need to mix this liquid with 3 parts water. Used straight, it can be too strong for the roots.
To lessen the odor, use a container with a top. A top and a spigot would be ideal.
•Used as Mulch Add a layer of leaves as a mulch, at the base of plants and in planting beds. You can chop them first, to speed their decomposition, or leave them whole. If the leaves are dry and try to fly away, wet them down and top them off with a layer of compost.
•In Compost You can toss excess comfrey leaves and plants into your compost and still benefit from the released nutrients, when you use your finished compost. This is the best use of the stalks. It even acts as an activator and helps to speed up the composting process.
•In the Soil Line the bottom of planting holes and even containers with a couple of leaves, then plant as you normally would. The leaves will slowly decompose and release their nutrients - with no odor.
•Leaf Mold Because comfrey leaves decompose into a liquid, they cannot be used alone, to make leaf mold. However mixed with other types of shredded leaves they will again act as an accelerator and you will have lovely, earthy, nutrient rich leaf mold in record time. Leaf mold can be used as a fertilizer, a side dressing or even a potting soil.
tokersmoke
Member
Great info!!!
Isn't organic growing about creating soil life? Doesn't chem ferts kill off any soil life?
YES & YES
steaduecf65
New member
Sounds like bullshit to me.
