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Malawi Gold

I

I-Shence

Hey!

2 weeks in flower

Latest male and female:

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And other females:

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I

I-Shence

Thank you Jahgreen!
6 females and 3 males atm.Maybe I'll select 2-3 best smelling and early trich producton females and 2 best smelling males.

Peace!
 

Hemphrey Bogart

Active member
Veteran
I wish I had more time/space to explore this line. This plant is from a pack of Afropips MG I got in '09. Smells like carrots and something else that I can't describe. Haven't harvested it yet, so don't know how it smokes.

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HB.
 

conlarazon

Well-known member
Veteran
hello

hello

Come here some African Buzz Seedsman ... one has tried it, say it is authentic Malawi ...

regards
 

ahortator

Well-known member
Veteran
Hello

I have seen pics of Malawi Gold from three diferent seedbanks and sources and the three have wide fingered leaves.

I don't know if it is something new or if it is a trait in this strain. But I thought that Malawi was a school book example of pure sativa.

Greetings
 
My 5 Malawi Golds in soil in one milk cardboardbox. They go into one 16L bucket and under 12/12 soon. Not hijacking this thread! :)
 

Rastak'

Member
Happy to see a special dedicate thread to this reproduction I-shence !!

They are all in good health !!
How much time is complete flowering for them ???

Blessings...
 

VanVulpen

Well-known member
Veteran
I 've been messing around with the Malawi's as well :) African Buzz is well different, a much more compact growth, and ACE of course wich everyone is looking forward to see next year...

The Malawi's are particulary sensitive to feeding, here are some pics with a seedplant of mine feeling unconfortable in regular soil and one of her clones for wich i had only used composted leaves from the forest :tiphat:

 
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grandsrin

Active member
I 've been messing around with the Malawi's as well :) African Buzz is well different, a much more compact growth, and ACE of course wich everyone is looking forward to see next year...

The Malawi's are particulary sensitive to feeding, here are some pics with a seedplant of mine feeling unconfortable in regular soil and one of her clones for wich i had only used composted leaves from the forest :tiphat:


Hi van vulpen, thank you for the info about the differents betwin seedman and afropips malawi .
I was interested in it, and i dont know wich one buying.

take care GS
 
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I don't know what tha f*** those seeds were, but I highly doubt they were MalawiGold... They started flower under 2 weeks. Stayed like under 20cm and do not stretch at all. 2 hermied, 1 male, 2 females. Might cull em soon, but let em hang around until I transfer some new habitants in.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
What I have found, is that if you want to grow the tropical sativas, and want to do so within a sane flowering period, you have to do the following things:

1) Pruning

I grow upto the 6th node, then prune the top and the lower branches until I there are 4 branches left. (They make a cross if you look at them from above, and all get lots of light.) I grow them out, then flower until they've stopped stretching, and then prune 2/3 off te branch from the stem. This really concentrates bud growth at the upper part of the branches. It also creates light penetration at the center of the plant, and also increases air circulation. A big reason for the long flowering time, is that bud growth gets evenly distributed across many long branches, much of which do not receive equal shares of light.

2) Feeding

At flowering, I basically stop feeding them any Nitrogen (N retards flowering), until they show some N deficiency, in which case I give them some worm tea. I only feed a bloom food like Green Sensation (Plagron, NPK 0-9-10), similar products being Ripen, PK 13/14, etc. And some seaweed for good measure. (I grow on soil that has lots of solid organic nutes in them.)

3) Starving/drying

Once you get the bud size you want, you stop feeding and just water. When all the nutes in the fan leaves and smaller leaves have been absorbed by the plant, you stop watering for a day or three, and then harvest. This really reduces the dangers of late stage bud rot.

4) Other

I have found that stress to the main stem really increases potency of the bud, in my opinion. Also, if you grow in organic soil, you cannot flush out nutes, you can only exhaust the nutrients that are in the soil. If you grow outside in the ground, the only option may be partial girdling - removing part of the bark from the stem. Girdling is likely what was used to starve Malawi Gold of nutes, creating the famous Malawi Gold effect. Another technique is 'crucifixion', where you split the stem and infuse a stick or toothpick (some use nails, but I don't like embedding metals in what is a consumer product).

This increases the stress at a time that the buds are already formed, and stress at this time speeds up ripening as well.

Lastly, I like to harvest sativas before any amber trichomes show up. This really puts the emphasis on the Sativa nature of the high.
 

Thule

Dr. Narrowleaf
Veteran
The Malawi Gold is indeed a robust sativa plant. The leaves start out wide-ish but they never overlap. Infact they fit perfectly, like cut with scissors. At later stages they look amazing, just look at my avatar. They grow into nice colas, big resinous calyxes that fill in surprisingly fast. After 90 days, you'll know they pack a punch. The stems have a pale green colour, even in lower temps. No red colours on the leaves or buds either, unlike some Congolose for example. In other words, no signs of indica, just beautiful robust sativa. I want to grow them again! They love a big rootspace but stay compact when started at 12/12, I fed with ash and guano only, lots of guano twice and no nute burns. Try 'em!
 

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