Magnesium Or Nitrogen Def??

[stihgnobevoli]

as ive stated like 3 times i havent ferted them any. ive just been using plain water. in mg soil. which i flushed 2:1 like 2 weeks ago in this thread.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53392

ill flush again i guess i didnt get all the nutes.

 

[Blackvelvet]

Why shouldnt i pee on my flowers? nitrogen is nitrogen it only becomes a problem when you're over doing it. before you say im over doing it see my previous sentence.

Nitrogen is not nitrogen. Nitrate nitrogen is what your after. This never harms plants and they can store it no problem. Pee would be urea which is about the same as ammonia nitrogen. This is actually toxic to plants in large amounts. If you had a hydro setup with just ammonia/urea nitrogen, the plants would die. Trust me I did this experiment in college.

Now to your problem plants, you need to add small amounts of calcium and magnesium in your water when dolomite lime begins to run out which is happening by now with repeated waterings or never was included in your soil mix in the beginning. Even with dol. lime in the mix, add cal mag every third watering or so to keep levels up. Find a fert high in nitrate nitrogen and little urea or ammonia and use that. I found one in lowes by looking around and reading the ingredients. It should also contain all the micros: iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum. You can add a small pinch of table salt to get chlorine. Then to this add 1/4 teaspoon of both calcium nitrate or powdered gypsum (pick one) and epsom salts per gallon of water. Your calcium source could also be calcium chloride but the rate depends on the net weight on the bottle. If you find this pm me and we can get a rate. So now your plants have complete nutrition with everything they need to grow.



Leaching mg soil with long term nutes that last 3 months or something like that advertised on the bag is hopeless. You should repot into neutral soil like promix that does not have these long term nutes in them.

Ph is very important. After you have mixed up a batch of ferts, adjust ph to about 6 using a ph up or down.

Your plants should receive weak ferts with every watering. Make sure about 20% of your fert water pours out the bottom of the pots. You want runoff.

To test your ph, water/fert your plant well till runoff occurs. Wait 30 minutes . Then apply a small amount of distilled water to the pots...like just a couple ounces. Catch this runoff on a saucer or something similar. Test this ph. Ph 6 works for both soil and soilless grows. If you can't afford a ph meter to test liquids, get ph test strips from the aquarium section of a petstore or better a brew your own beer/wine store. A range of 4-7 on the strips is okay but a range around 5.5-6.5 would be better. Probe meters you jam in the soil are really poor. Don't waste your money.

If your plants are experiencing toxic amounts of ammonia/urea nitrogen, calcium will help.

Thats all I can think of now. Thanks for your kind words before. :wink: Good luck.

 

[Brian1975]

Urea free orchid fertilizer(20-10-20) at Lowe's, just like BV said. I use it for veg. Also has micronutrients (no boron though) already in there. Cheap too, it cost me $3.77 for a half lb (227grams). Worked well for me.

 

[hedphlegm]

regarding your question about whether or not to chop fan leaves, i found this article to be very helpful in that determination. What I glean from it is that it's fine to chop fan leaves that have already begun to yellow a bit, but otherwise the gain from chopping healthy fan leaves just to give more light exposure to lower bud sites would be in vain according to the inverse square law. The added distance the light has to travel just to make it to the lower bud sites (compared to the distance it had to travel to reach the fan leave above it) ends up negating much of the benefit. This (again, according to the article) would be due to the fact that the fan leave being removed is a much better photosynthetic energy producer than the bud sites being uncovered which, due to being farther away, end up receiving a good deal less light. Plus you have to factor in the stress to the plant caused by any chopping. Hope this helps!

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1546.htm

 

[Verite]

i havent seen a ph meter under $50. i think you forgot a 0. i dont understand your last post legion. all the leaves on my plant are green, theres a couple that touched the lightbulbs and got burn spots.

You arent looking hard enough. You could two for $50.

http://www.beermonstersguidetoalcoholicbeverages.com/items/4415554365.html

 

[Blackvelvet]

Urea free orchid fertilizer(20-10-20) at Lowe's, just like BV said. I use it for veg. Also has micronutrients (no boron though) already in there. Cheap too, it cost me $3.77 for a half lb (227grams). Worked well for me.

Boron is in there...must be a misprint on the label.

 

[pandoras_box]

I'm not an expert on growing plants, but my common sense would say that it wouldn't be beneficial to pee on soil or plants. Plus, I was just thinking ...that plant is sucking it up and I really wouldn't want to smoke your piss man lmfao... j/k

 

[Stinkymutt]

looks dry?

looks dry?

Well what little i can see in your pots , your soil looks a lil dry. Do you know what your humidity is? Im not the brightest bulb on the tree but it looks like a simple overheating/humidity problem and mabey water? The leaves are looking more wilted than burned . Also the PH thing. In my experience using potting mix the PH is already neutral. i have tested and tested PH with my "expensive" tester and have found very little variance in PH. I only check it in my mix now if I see a problem. I do test my nute mixes if I switch brands to see what I am putting in the mix as far as PH. Miracle grow soil is buffered as I happened to have a bag and just looked at it!
peace
mutt

 

[Stinkymutt]

LMAo oh yeah the pee thing! Its not just Pee , think of all the Bile acids and little nasties that get flushed out through your bladder!