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Lumatek

T

The_Core

Hopefully nobody reads this and thinks it says that you can use a 400W bulb in a 1000W ballast if its dimmed down to 400
Right in the manual it says not to use a bulb rated lower than the ballast.
They fire at a little more than the rated W and would damage a bulb rated lower

Tribal, i was reading that and you make alot of sense with your statement. If your ballast is rated at 1000, buy a 1000 watt bulb and dim it down if you need to. Dont buy a 400 watt bulb, turn your dim switch to 400 and try to run a 400. When the Ballast fires up and pushes the power to the bulb its going to be over 400 watt atleast initially. I bought 1000 watt ushios for mine. Does that mean if you put a 1000 watt bulb in and turn it to super lumens it will damage the bulb as its forcing more power to the bulb? I was curious if even using Super Lumens makes enough difference to use that setting?.
 
T

The_Core

Bro I have used Lumateks for years and can't say enough of them. The only time I have ever had one (two) fail was due to my own stupidity....(bad wiring)...and Lumatek replaced both no hassle. The dimmer switch is the cats ass. I won't run anything else. Just my $.02


Gingerale, you have been using Lumateks for years, do you have any experience with fuses blowing or having to replace them? I know Lumateks are built well but if by some chance there is a spike in power and a fuse pops can it be replaced?
 

thegambler

Active member
Let's clear this up.....the buttons on the side are "breakers", essentially like a fuse box that will "pop" for any number of reasons. The fuse(s) inside are not to be replaced and the unit should not be opened or it voids all warranty's. So, the fuses are internal. If pushing the buttons doesn't reset the ballast, it needs to be sent back for repair or replacement.

Lumatek will ask for a receipt for date of purchase. If you do not have one, they will go by the serial number on the ballast for dating and warranty info. Lumatek's address is in Novato, CA and it's easy to find. You can email "Duke", who is a technical consultant at [email protected] for further help, questions, etc.

You'll need to pay for shipping both ways, which for me was $35 each time, but within 2 weeks I had a brand new one.
 
T

The_Core

Let's clear this up.....the buttons on the side are "breakers", essentially like a fuse box that will "pop" for any number of reasons. The fuse(s) inside are not to be replaced and the unit should not be opened or it voids all warranty's. So, the fuses are internal. If pushing the buttons doesn't reset the ballast, it needs to be sent back for repair or replacement.

Lumatek will ask for a receipt for date of purchase. If you do not have one, they will go by the serial number on the ballast for dating and warranty info. Lumatek's address is in Novato, CA and it's easy to find. You can email "Duke", whose is a technical consultant at [email protected] for further help, questions, etc.

You'll need to pay for shipping both ways, which for me was $35 each time, but within 2 weeks I had a brand new one.

Gambler, thanks alot! Exactly the info I needed. Easily understandable!
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
When I called Lumatek and talked to their rep., he told me you could do it either way. This was just after they came out with the adjustable ballasts. I guess they changed their minds. It was not my intent to give anyone advice on a guess. Hope no one ruined a bulb on my account. -granger
 
T

The_Core

Its cool Granger. Information and technology changes day to day, that's why were all here to keep the information flowing!
 
T

TribalSeeds

Tribal, i was reading that and you make alot of sense with your statement. If your ballast is rated at 1000, buy a 1000 watt bulb and dim it down if you need to. Dont buy a 400 watt bulb, turn your dim switch to 400 and try to run a 400. When the Ballast fires up and pushes the power to the bulb its going to be over 400 watt atleast initially. I bought 1000 watt ushios for mine. Does that mean if you put a 1000 watt bulb in and turn it to super lumens it will damage the bulb as its forcing more power to the bulb? I was curious if even using Super Lumens makes enough difference to use that setting?.

No... Its not giving it more power. Its supposed to be 10% more efficient though. Its recommended to use Super Lumens when the bulbs are almost ready to be replaced though.
On the 400W dial a watt there is a 250W super lumens setting and a 400W super lumens setting for both bulbs.
Ive used super lumens on new bulbs without incident. It may have decreased the bulbs life though.
Ive also been told never to use super lumens on a MH bulb, but Ive used it on a MH conversion bulb on accident and my house didnt burn down...
 
T

TribalSeeds

Talk about a near disaster with bulbs! Last night I decided to reduce my light hours by 30mins, so I set the digital timer connected to my light controller for 7:30, but I had it set for for off @ 7:30PM... Whats fucked is its set to turn on at 8:00PM. Anyway I went in there at 11:30am and the lights were on but the fan was off!
The glass on the hoods was hot enough to cook eggs! The plants looked beautiful and the temp was 72! So I guess my high temp shutdown device is worthless.
Fuck me! Those bulbs must be hot... Hopefully they dont blow out before I finish up here.
 
T

The_Core

No... Its not giving it more power. Its supposed to be 10% more efficient though. Its recommended to use Super Lumens when the bulbs are almost ready to be replaced though.
On the 400W dial a watt there is a 250W super lumens setting and a 400W super lumens setting for both bulbs.
Ive used super lumens on new bulbs without incident. It may have decreased the bulbs life though.
Ive also been told never to use super lumens on a MH bulb, but Ive used it on a MH conversion bulb on accident and my house didnt burn down...

Thanks Tribal for clearing that up. I will make sure I user the super setting only when the bulb is almost used up all its hours. Thats good to know about not using the MH on the super lumens setting, I guess its not designed for that type of bulb?
 
T

The_Core

Talk about a near disaster with bulbs! Last night I decided to reduce my light hours by 30mins, so I set the digital timer connected to my light controller for 7:30, but I had it set for for off @ 7:30PM... Whats fucked is its set to turn on at 8:00PM. Anyway I went in there at 11:30am and the lights were on but the fan was off!
The glass on the hoods was hot enough to cook eggs! The plants looked beautiful and the temp was 72! So I guess my high temp shutdown device is worthless.
Fuck me! Those bulbs must be hot... Hopefully they dont blow out before I finish up here.

So your bulb and reflector were just cooking up, I wonder how much damage is done when an enclosed light bulb like that just gets super hot and isnt ventilated? Atleast you caught it before I destroyed your bulb or plants!
 
T

TribalSeeds

I think it has something to do with the difference with how the bulbs fire... Im not sure exactly, but Ive read it from several different sources and tend to try and follow advice because I dont know much about electronics.
I actually never use the Super Lumens. Im looking into buying a box of bulbs so that I can just toss them every cycle.
 
T

TribalSeeds

So your bulb and reflector were just cooking up, I wonder how much damage is done when an enclosed light bulb like that just gets super hot and isnt ventilated? Atleast you caught it before I destroyed your bulb or plants!

Yea I suck! The first thing I did was kick on the fan. I meant to go back out there when the lights were shutting down because I wanted to swap in the mh conversion for the last couple of weeks. Shit was so hot I didnt even think about touching the bulbs
 

mistic

Member
Hi guys.

There were few doubts about if u can use lower wattage bulb with your ballasts... I had same problem and got answer from http://www.lumatek.co.uk - solid informations I belive...

Here u got few examples:

400w
Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 250W or 400W HPS or MH lamp
Voltage: 230V 50/60Hz
Current: 1.80A
Input power: 415W
Output power: 400W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165~265V
THD: <8%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating Frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Env. temp.: -25~50°C(-13~122°F)
Enclosure temp. rise ((Δt) 29°C (84.2°F)
Env.IP require: >IP23
To light a 250W lamp; set control to 250W and boost output by 10% by switching to 250SL.
To light a 400W lamp; set control to 400W and boost output by 10% by switching to 400SL or dim down to 250SL or 250W.


1000w
Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 1000w, 750w or 600w HPS lamp or 1000w or 600w MH lamp
Voltage: 220-240V 50/60Hz
Current: 4.50A
Input power: 1060W
Output power: 1000W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165 to 265V
THD: <10%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Environment temperature: -25 to 50°C (-13 to 122°F)
Ta 30°C 86°F
Tc 70°C 158°F

To light a 600W lamp; set control to 600W.
To light a 750W lamp; set control to 750W and dim down to 600W.
To light a 1000W lamp; set control to 1000W and boost output by 10% by switching to 'Super Lumens' or dim down to 750W or 600W.


600w

Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 600W HPS or MH lamp
Voltage: 230V 50/60Hz
Current: 2.70A
Input power: 620W
Output power: 600W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165 to 265V
THD: <8%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Environment temperature: -25 to 50°C (-13 to 122°F)
Enclosure temperature rise (Δt): 35°C (95°F)
Environment IP require: >IP23

To light a 400W lamp; set control to 400W and boost output by 10% by switching to 400SL.
To light a 600W lamp; set control to 600W and boost output by 10% by switching to 600SL or dim down to 400SL or 400W.


I am not sure if I understood that properly... Is "To light a 250W lamp" does mean to light a 250w bulb ? If yes - everything is clear then...

Hope it helps a bit..
greetings

Fire!
mistic
 
N

noyd666

Hi guys.

There were few doubts about if u can use lower wattage bulb with your ballasts... I had same problem and got answer from http://www.lumatek.co.uk - solid informations I belive...

Here u got few examples:

400w
Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 250W or 400W HPS or MH lamp
Voltage: 230V 50/60Hz
Current: 1.80A
Input power: 415W
Output power: 400W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165~265V
THD: <8%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating Frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Env. temp.: -25~50°C(-13~122°F)
Enclosure temp. rise ((Δt) 29°C (84.2°F)
Env.IP require: >IP23
To light a 250W lamp; set control to 250W and boost output by 10% by switching to 250SL.
To light a 400W lamp; set control to 400W and boost output by 10% by switching to 400SL or dim down to 250SL or 250W.

1000w
Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 1000w, 750w or 600w HPS lamp or 1000w or 600w MH lamp
Voltage: 220-240V 50/60Hz
Current: 4.50A
Input power: 1060W
Output power: 1000W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165 to 265V
THD: <10%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Environment temperature: -25 to 50°C (-13 to 122°F)
Ta 30°C 86°F
Tc 70°C 158°F

To light a 600W lamp; set control to 600W.
To light a 750W lamp; set control to 750W and dim down to 600W.
To light a 1000W lamp; set control to 1000W and boost output by 10% by switching to 'Super Lumens' or dim down to 750W or 600W.

600w

Key Specifications/Special Features:

Electronic ballast for 600W HPS or MH lamp
Voltage: 230V 50/60Hz
Current: 2.70A
Input power: 620W
Output power: 600W
Power factor: >0.99
Voltage range: 165 to 265V
THD: <8%
Lamp CCF: <1.7
Operating frequency: high frequency
No audible noise, no flicker
Environment temperature: -25 to 50°C (-13 to 122°F)
Enclosure temperature rise (Δt): 35°C (95°F)
Environment IP require: >IP23

To light a 400W lamp; set control to 400W and boost output by 10% by switching to 400SL.
To light a 600W lamp; set control to 600W and boost output by 10% by switching to 600SL or dim down to 400SL or 400W.

I am not sure if I understood that properly... Is "To light a 250W lamp" does mean to light a 250w bulb ? If yes - everything is clear then...

Hope it helps a bit..
greetings

Fire!
mistic
:biggrin: hi, best imfo you can get ,from factory.:)
 
N

noyd666

:biggrin: hi ,not lumatek, was reading on dig this morn, 600 with smart chips auto adjusts to both lamps,hps and mh. no nobs. and some digital ballests contain and error sensing'' circuit that is meant to detect if thier is bulb failer in the event of bulb failer the ballest will shut down and not restart until user unplugs ballest to reset it . some switch, flip boxs circoitry often misinterpret a light switching cyle as a dead bulb, and switch themselfs off. not handy if your not about,lol.:laughing:
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You should always check with the manufacturer of your ballast about whether or not it is compatible with a lower wattage bulb than the full wattage that the ballast is rated for. Different manufacturers handle it differently, so some are and some aren't.

Regarding Tribal's worries about the lamp being adversely affected because the fan was off - it isn't a factor. The cooling is there in order to keep the environment cool, not the lamp. Most industrial fixtures run totally sealed and gasketed so that dust doesn't accumulate inside.
 
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