Kiloz
Member
seriously. dirt is a PITA. the only advantage i could see is not needing to ph and to just feed water.
and quality of course
seriously. dirt is a PITA. the only advantage i could see is not needing to ph and to just feed water.
and quality of course
Great thread, thanks for sharing Green_science!
What square footage are you covering per 600w?
"specialty" bulb or generic GE, philips, sylvania?
Have you looking into commercial style air handling units for environmental control in larger rooms? Obviously you've got it dialed and understand what you need to do to tweak your system from season to season but perhaps certain aspects of such a system could be useful.
Love the no walkway, pure sea.
Respect.
In for the EPICNESS!
Lovely work as usual GS, maybe it's because its late and I'm high but I don't see where you have your oscilatting fans placed.
What are the temps outside when you are using 2 x 12" passive intakes with a 12" extractor (what m3/hr?) to keep 8/9/10 600's cool? I'm assuming your intake air comes directly from outside
Thanks for showing this has gave the lift I needed
Thank you for you're kind words DHF, not sure I mentioned 1k bulbs bud, if I did I didn't mean to, there is 364 plants under 64 x 600w in the flowering room and 16 x 600w in the veg chamber, making for a total of 80 x 600w or 48KW, I must admit to never reading a Heath Robinson thread however I have glimpsed at some of his pics and am aware of who he is, over the years I just come to the conclusion that sacrificing air exchange for temp control was/is not the best solution, and that if it is possible, and I understand it isn't for everyone, then maintaining high air flow and using heaters is preferred.
Now for air exchange, I have been using the same extraction fans for a good many years along with growing through a good many summers and winters (which here are pretty consistent from year to year) I nearly exclusively use 600w bulbs and my setups in way of light>space and extraction/intake are nearly identical from the smaller ones right up to the bigger ones, that being 2 x 12" passive intakes (or just under) to each 12" extraction and 1 extraction per 8/9/10 lights I always space lights very similarly in my ops, the height of the ceiling won't really even be considered unless it's extreme, (very tall/short) as it doesn't make much of a difference as everything, in terms of dictating environment, is happening below that level and I use osc fans, along with careful placement of intake/extraction heaters, to keep things consistent throughout the space.
In bloom I run my lights through our night times I know that using my usual method with familiar equipment and scaled setups,that I can cool the room even on the warmest summer nights.
So that's how I control high temps during the hotter season, of coarse this makes me explaining controlling high temps during the winter months redundant, which leaves controlling low temps during hotter and colder seasons needing explaining, what I usually do is have 2 x 2kw rads per extraction.
In the winter months 1 of these rads will be set for example, to 79 degrees on a digital thermostat the other set to for example 73 degrees, also on a digital thermostat.
Now in the winter if the room drops below 79d then 1 radiator will come on, this keeps my grow room day time temps fluctuating around 79d, once lights go it means it is day time outside of the grow room so I have the benefit of warmer air coming in during lights out, once temps drop below 73d in the room during lights out (which they will do in winter) then rad 2 comes on, now I know 2x2kw heaters set up like this on a winters day (aka grow rooms night) is sufficient, relevant to my intake/extraction (which is always the same), to keep the room above 70d but not powerful enough to warm it to or above 79d, of coarse we don't want a negative temp DIF, if it were an extremely cold winter I may have a 3rd rad set to for example 71d.
Does all this cost a lot more than a fan controller....yes of coarse,
but for me the benefits far outweigh the negatives, constant strong negative pressure, abundance of co2 at all times, lots of high flowing air movement keeping plants thick and strong, the ability to run higher room humidity (if you so desire) all whilst protecting you against mold, and finally (which is very important to me) being able to (safely) really dial in your day/night temp DIF, which of coarse you know all about DHF, but for others whom don't, closing that gap between night/day temps is used throughout the horticulture industry to keep internodal spacing to a minimum.
So thats pretty much it DHF using my usual methods I can get really damn close to a very good replicated environment before tweaking which can then finish it off (if need be), playing with radiator thermostats, as you say aux fans which can of coarse be plugged in to fan controllers , adjusting heights of lights, etc etc, but thanks to pretty predictable weather where I live and a little experience doing these things, I can pretty much go into a room measure it and write a list off the top of my head, more than capable of summers, and oversized for winters.
Respect for you're questions DHF and everyone else. hope I have answered them and shed some light on my methods.
GS