Long time grower, BAFFLED, Help please!

[moose eater]

I feel your pain. Jousting with 'ghosts' that won't properly announce themselves is a pain in the ass.

Keep plugging. Hopefully it will show itself, you'll slap yourself in the forehead upon realization that it was in plain view all along, and all will be well in Oz again!!

Good luck!!

 

[Vanilla Phoenix]

Looking like a virus to me. I had a virus....or something similar not too long ago. I tried everything....miticides, fungicides, Zerotol 2.0, sm90, lowering/raising ec, pH adjustment, using new medium,.....you name it I tried. Shit went on for the better part of a year.

I couldn’t even figure out how it was spreading. I would have an infected plant that would be touching a noninfected plant and it wouldn’t get it. Then a healthy plant that wasn’t even close to an infected plant would get sick!!

I finally figured out that it was spreading by the scissors I was using for pruning. I would prune infected plants and then use them on healthy plants and boom...after a couple weeks, healthy plant would be sick.

The only thing that got rid of my problem was throwing out any plants that even looked like they had a symptom. I then bleached everything down. And to this day, I keep a spray bottle filled with straight ISO rubbing alcohol and spray my shears with it before and after I prune a plant. And never prune a different plant without spraying and wiping down my shears first.

Haven’t seen any sick plants in over a year. I know how you feel. I’ve beat russets before and ppl think they’re bad. Atleast you know wth you’re fighting! That virus situation was the worst thing that has ever happened to my grow in the 20 yrs I’ve been at it.

My symptoms looked a bit different than yours. My symptoms were leaf curling, blistering, single branches dudding out, no trichs in bloom, no density, branches snapping easily in veg, and slow growth. If you’ve tried everything else... I’d prob start thinking about tossing infected plants.

If you go into my albums and look at the Hammers Kush pics...that’s the plant that brought the virus in. If your plants in veg look like that....oof!

Hope everything works out dude. I’m prob gonna have nightmares tonite just talking about this. Lol. It’s the worst

 

[Gauss]

.

 

[YukonKronic]

Radon gas? Radon detectors are cheap usually...

 

[TanzanianMagic]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=499612&d=1563088535

Just to repeat:

- The edges of the leaf are most affected
- The leaves are deformed
- The leaves have some chlorosis

What virus attacks the edge of the leaf?

This is from insects feeding on the leaf. That is why the edges are most affected. That is why the leaves are deformed.

What you need is a magnifying glass or microscope to see if there are any mites or tiny specs of any kind on your leaf.

 

[pinkus]

Just some information from some medical classes: Alcohol is vastly inferior to bleach for killing pathogens. If you CAN use bleach instead of alcohol for a particular purpose, do it.

 

[carson]

Nothing is being eaten in these pictures, IMO. I have the same problem. The leaves are mutated, which causes the twisting and weird growth. Just a few leaves here and there in my case. I think it's a feed or PH issue but maybe it is a virus. Been showing up more frequently in my garden and on more strains.

 

[RED 1]

Water supply is turning your medium into "bad soil",eventually
Inert metals present in rooting system,plant goes into lockdowns,shows in leaves sometimes early,other times well into flowering

 

[redlaser]

Older thread, but I would second the water testing and do a slurry test on the run off, and do it separately for the new coco, and let the coco set in water 24/36 hours and test it again. Often it’s too salty and needs rinsing.

I grow in peat and pumice, and even after rinsing the pumice with triple its volume of water it will hit 1.2 ec on a 500 scale after 24 hours

Excess water will make nutrient deficiency issues as another possibility

I’ve ph tested straight perlite, and it’s neutral after an hour, like it is supposed to be, but after 24 hours it’s 7.5 ph, and after 48 hours it’s up to 7.7. If too much moisture is maintained in your medium ph could be getting close to those numbers.

 

[Creeperpark]

my opinion

my opinion

Don't use tap water "ever" if you want to grow good weed. All city water has to be modified into safe drinking water. They put stuff in it to raise the pH so it won' t leach out heavy metals from pluming pipes and poison children. Also they put stuff in to kill any living organism that's in the water too. If the City water systems used acidic water, people would have stomach problems and have heart burn all the time.

When water hits the ground and percolates through the ground it picks up a lot of stuff. The City water systems don't clean that because it costs too much. Their reasoning is up to 500 ppm in drinking water is safe for drinking. However its bad for growing.

Your problem may be caused by what's left in the tap water then adding cal-mag on top of that. If you have a starting water that has more than 120 ppm, then you may need to hold off on adding the cal-mag. If you add a full dose of cal-mag on top of tap water your starting water has to much Carbonates and is blocking the receptor sites. Your soil may be contaminated now and flushing won't help.

Clubroot; Pythium species; Fusarium species; Rhizoctonia species; Sclerotinia and Sclerotium species – are soilborne diseases caused from environmental issues.

Try growing one pole bean plant in the grow to help show you disease symptoms. A bean plant has a nitrate building capacity and can tolerate carbonates differently than weed. If you have a fungus it will show on the bean plant too if not then its the water.