G
Guest
I have 5 gallon e&f buckets and when the water covers the clay pebbles,these little white bugs come up and then go back into the pebbles when the water goes down (what can they be)
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G
Guest
no they look like aphids. but they are not on the plants
G
Guest
Sounds like GNats to me too. they are nasty bloody things.
G
Guest
Could be thrips ... lil bastards.
Mo,
Mo,
G
Guest
Do thrips come out of the soil when its wet??
R
Ronley
Do they fly?
I had these white flying insects last year that were awful. finally they went away when I cut down the whole garden and started anew.
Also winter started and so the cold helped to get rid of them.
I had these white flying insects last year that were awful. finally they went away when I cut down the whole garden and started anew.
Also winter started and so the cold helped to get rid of them.
if they fly its got to be gnats or white flys..... more then likely its gnats...
gnats like fungi thats why there breeding in the droton id drop in sum sm-90 in your rez.
it will kill off the bac's,fung's & the larva
& we work so hard to build up bac's & fung's to help are plants then shit like this happens... it happen to me on my last grow......
gnats like fungi thats why there breeding in the droton id drop in sum sm-90 in your rez.
it will kill off the bac's,fung's & the larva
& we work so hard to build up bac's & fung's to help are plants then shit like this happens... it happen to me on my last grow......
G
Guest
Yup, as long as its not in flower.
otherwsie Neem I reakon.
otherwsie Neem I reakon.
G
Guest
Hey Mine(Neem) says to use within 8 hours, does anyone use it after this??
G
Guest
Everyone could be right and yes thrips can fly and they do come out of the soil when wet. That is where they gestate like most other pests. All answers are good Neem works good as a preventative but be careful because it can burn young leafs. I only treat my soil with it. Again all answers are viable. Good job on trying to figure t out before just dumpng all kinds of shit on them.
Mo,
Mo,
G
Guest
Greenlight has a neem that is omri certified available at Lowes. Saw it a few days ago.
Good Luck.
Mo, :friends:
Good Luck.
Mo, :friends:
G
Guest
Help!!!Help!!!!
Help!!!Help!!!!
I have what looks like to be a gnat larve infestation and I am not sure how to handle them. I noticed gnats in my grow room from time to time and it just never regitered with me that they cannibolizing my buds.
I already have lost two giant Blue13's because I didn't react fast enough. I have NEVER had any bugs at all so I was ignorant as to what they were doing to my plants. The plants were a total loss, a QP or so down the drain, oh well live and learn.
I grow 100% hydro in hydrtron.
Can I apply a neem oil dilution on plants that are already a month or so into flower?
It does not seem to have spread to any other plants but I assume I need to do a preventitve treatment on them to be sure.
Any suggestions, I am wide open
Thanks in advance
Tex
Help!!!Help!!!!
I have what looks like to be a gnat larve infestation and I am not sure how to handle them. I noticed gnats in my grow room from time to time and it just never regitered with me that they cannibolizing my buds.
I already have lost two giant Blue13's because I didn't react fast enough. I have NEVER had any bugs at all so I was ignorant as to what they were doing to my plants. The plants were a total loss, a QP or so down the drain, oh well live and learn.
I grow 100% hydro in hydrtron.
Can I apply a neem oil dilution on plants that are already a month or so into flower?
It does not seem to have spread to any other plants but I assume I need to do a preventitve treatment on them to be sure.
Any suggestions, I am wide open
Thanks in advance
Tex
G
Guest
Are they actually in the buds TK or just around the edges of the pots. Neem is some pretty tough stuff even diluted it can damage young tender leafs. Not sure bout buds never sprayed it on buds before. It sure does have a foul odor I wouldn't want on my buds. HAvew you tried to kill one and view it under a microscope. The ones used to check trics will work. That way you know exactly what you have. I fight a never ending battle on thrips. When I think they are gone, they pop back up.
Good Luck on your fight.
Mo,
Good Luck on your fight.
Mo,
G
Guest
Thanks Mo, yeh, they were all over, inside and out of my buds. The buds kind of started to yellow and the ends of the hairs were turning black and curling under, so I thought my nutes or ph is out of whack because I have not had any bug problems until now.
Where do they come from?
I looked at them under the microscope and they look like little white blobs just chowin down, stacked ontop of each other. I am not sure that they are not mites because they look basically the same to me.
I don't see any signs of them on any other plants but I want to be proactive. All the other plants look extreamly healthy and uneffected.
I got a fruit and vegetable freindly neem oil product that says it is safe to apply to food crops with no problems or residuale buildup but I don't know.
Is there a fog or bomb you can use?
Thanks in advance
Tex
Where do they come from?
I looked at them under the microscope and they look like little white blobs just chowin down, stacked ontop of each other. I am not sure that they are not mites because they look basically the same to me.
I don't see any signs of them on any other plants but I want to be proactive. All the other plants look extreamly healthy and uneffected.
I got a fruit and vegetable freindly neem oil product that says it is safe to apply to food crops with no problems or residuale buildup but I don't know.
Is there a fog or bomb you can use?
Thanks in advance
Tex
G
Guest
I don't know bout a insecitcide bomb, I have never use one. The neem should be ok, like I said it will damage the tender young shoots a little. It burns your hands a little if you get it on them. I have sprayed buds before with organic insecticide it evaporates pretty quick and it only kills while it is wet. In other words once it drys it's ability to kill pests is gone. I then sprayed with plain water to rinse off the residue. Keep in mind I am no expert only from my own expierence. I bought one of those Flora Misters, it allows you to spray the under side of the leafs without to much trouble once you get used to it.
Hope this helps.
Mo,
Hope this helps.
Mo,
g13
Member
Here are some things you can try.Should help.They are outside tips but you can try inside.Don't think it would hurt hope all goes well.
Always observe some basic rules when you try any of these, even though they are natural, damage can occur. Use homemade remedies with caution and as a last resort.
Spraying basics
1. It is best to use any type of spray in the early morning or the cool of evening. Do not spray when temps are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit! Your plants may "burn" or have a reaction to what you are using in excessive heat. This is known as "phytotoxicity"
2. Always perform a test on a small portion of the plant material first. Wait 24 hours to observe any negative reaction. Proceed if there is no damage.
3. Really and truly...more is not better. If you are not getting good results don't increase the strength of these remedies without testing first.
4. Target just the area you need to treat. Be careful... try not to harm the good guys! You don't want to run off your allies.
5. When working with sprays or dusts always protect your exposed skin and face. Some of these ingredients can be very irritating to your skin, eyes and mucous membranes, especially any hot pepper sprays.
Clover underplanting:
Target insects: Aphids, root flies and cabbage butterflies.
To reduce insect damage in the brassica family underplant with white clover (T. repens) or subterranean clover (Trifolium subterranean). works via masking the distinct scent of brassicas.
Elder Leaf Insecticide:
Target insects:Aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles, peach tree borers, and root maggots. It is particularly effective against midges. Elder leaves also have fungicidal properties and may be useful against mildew and blackspot diseases.
To make: simmer 8 ounces of leaves in 16 ounces of water for 30 minutes. Stir this thoroughly, then strain. Take 16 ounces of warm water and mix with 1 tablespoon of castille soap. Add soap mixture to the elder water, spray as needed. Note: Set your sprayer to a coarse or large droplet setting as this mixture will tend to plug a fine setting.
Garlic Spray
Target insects: Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also help to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it will remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic contains naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial agent and fungus preventative. Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also help to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it will remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic contains naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial agent and fungus preventative.
Try our Garlic Barrier!
To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24 hours or longer. Strain.
Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castille soap to this.
Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1 pint of water and spray.
When working with oil sprays you want to monitor the climate conditions so your plants won't get phytotoxic burn. Use this simple equation: Take the current outdoor Fahrenheit temperature then add to this the percentage of humidity, if the total is more than 140 don't spray.
Example: Temperature of 80 degrees plus humidity of 67 percent equals 147, don't spray. You also do not want to spray when temps are above 80F.
Great Fleabane: (Inula conyza) the leaves and roots of this plant make a strong general insecticide. It is also a nice addition to the perennial flower bed.
To make: Take one cup of leaves and or roots. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil and pour over the fleabane, put a lid on this and let it steep for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture, let cool. Mix in a 1/4 teaspoon of pure soap such as castille, spray.
Horseradish Pesticide
How about some alternative uses for this invasive plant?
Target insects: Aphids, blister beetles, caterpillars, Colorado beetles, whiteflies and soft-bodied insects. Maybe even slugs.
To make: Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, add 2 cups of cayenne peppers, a 1 inch piece of chopped horseradish root, and 2 cups of packed scented geranium leaves, any kind. Let mixture steep for 1 hour, cool, strain and spray. Note: this can be made without the scented geranium leaves if you don't have them to spare.
NOTE
enn State University announced in 1995 that minced horseradish holds promise in decontaminating wastewater and now says it may clean contaminated soils as well!
Penn State's center for Bioremediation and Detoxification reports that minced horseradish combined with hydrogen peroxide can completely remove chlorinated phenols and other contaminants found in industrial wastes. Experiments involve applying the mixture directly to tainted soils or growing horseradish in contaminated soil and rototilling the roots just before applying hydrogen peroxide!
The cleansing properties of horseradish have been known for more than a decade, however creating a purified form has been far too expensive. This method has proved to be just as effective, but at a fraction of the cost!
Lime Spray
Target insects: Cucumber beetles, mites and general purpose.
To make: Mix 1 ounce of hydrated lime, 32 ounces of water and 1 teaspoon of castille soap. Use up to twice a week.
Marigold Spray (use pot marigold: Calendula officinalis)
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, leaf cutting and chewing insects, like leaf cutting bees on your roses and lilacs.
To make: Mash 1 cup of marigold leaves and flowers. Mix with 1 pint of water. Let soak for 24 hours. Strain through cheesecloth. Dilute further with 1 1/2 quarts of water then add 1/4 teaspoon of castille soap. Spray target areas.
Orange Peel Spray
Oranges and other citrus fruit contain natural ocurring pesticide compounds called limonene and linalool. These compounds can be used as a treatment for soft bodied pests such as aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs and as an ant repellant.
To Make: Pour 2 cups of boiling water over peelings of one orange. Let this steep for about 24 hours. Strain the mixture into a glass jar and toss the peels into the compost. Use this liquid as a spray mixing in a few drops of castille soap on target insects or on ants and their nests. Smells nice too!
Pepper and Herb Dusts
Target Insects: General
Peppers and certain herbs contain the compound "capasaicin" which will irritate and repel many insects. Cayenne, chili, dill, paprika, red and black peppers can be used as dusts. Purchase the cheapest you can find, or grow hot peppers and dill in your garden. Dry them and pulverize them in a food processor. Sprinkle on moist plant foliage and the surrounding soil.
Pepper Spray
Target insects: All-purpose
Just like the pepper dusts a spray made from hot peppers will release the capasaicin compound to repel insects.
To make:Mix 1/2 cup of finely chopped or ground hot peppers with 1 pint of water. Let this sit for 24 hours. Use as is for a soil drench application or strain the mixture through cheesecloth until you have a clear liquid. Add a few drops of castille soap and use as a foliar application. Keep away from your eyes and skin when using.
Tomato or Potato Leaf Spray
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles and flea beetles.This will kill earworms and maggots and acts as an antifeedent for other insects.
Plants belonging to the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes etc.) have large amounts of compounds called "alkaloids" in their leaves. These compounds are water soluble and can be extracted by soaking chopped leaves then using as a spray. The toxicity of the alkaloids may account for only part of their effectiveness. The sprays may also attract beneficial insects that follow the chemicals in these plants as a cue in searching for their prey.
To make: Soak 2 cups of chopped tomato leaves in 1 pint of water overnight. Strain this mixture then add another pint of water and 1/4 teaspoon of castille soap a sticker. Spray foliage and soil as needed.
Sugar Drench
Target insects: Bad nematodes! Sugar also adds trace minerals to the soil.
Mix 1/2 a cup of sugar with 1 gallon of water. Stir to dissolve sugar. Pour on the soil around plant roots where you have had nematode problems or use as a treatment prior to planting.
Wormwood Spray
Target insects: Aphids, caterpillars, crawling insects and slugs. May repel snakes.
Caution is advised when using wormwood sprays around plants as it can inhibit growth. Best results are obtained when spraying directly onto the target insect when possible.
See page on wormwood for more details.
To Make:
8 ounces wormwood leaves
4 pints of water
1 teaspoon castille soap
1.Simmer wormwood leaves in the water for 30 minutes. Stir, strain, and leave to cool.
2.Add the castille soap to wormwood mixture and use to spray.
Yarrow Tea
Target insects: Aphids and soft-bodied insects. Also an excellent plant tonic!
Yarrow has insecticidal properties and is also an excellent natural fertilizer. Try mixing this with strong coffee to make a more powerful brew. Yes, coffee, caffeine makes the insects hyper and confused. See: Companion planting: Yarrow. Yarrow is also one of the ingredients used in Golden Harvest fertilizer.
To make:Soak 1 cup of yarrow plant pieces in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours or more. Brew it in the sun like tea. Strain and mix with 1 gallon of water. Mix in strongly brewed coffee and 1/4 teaspoon castille soap. Spray on aphids and other soft bodied pests every 1-2 weeks. Or use as a preventative
Always observe some basic rules when you try any of these, even though they are natural, damage can occur. Use homemade remedies with caution and as a last resort.
Spraying basics
1. It is best to use any type of spray in the early morning or the cool of evening. Do not spray when temps are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit! Your plants may "burn" or have a reaction to what you are using in excessive heat. This is known as "phytotoxicity"
2. Always perform a test on a small portion of the plant material first. Wait 24 hours to observe any negative reaction. Proceed if there is no damage.
3. Really and truly...more is not better. If you are not getting good results don't increase the strength of these remedies without testing first.
4. Target just the area you need to treat. Be careful... try not to harm the good guys! You don't want to run off your allies.
5. When working with sprays or dusts always protect your exposed skin and face. Some of these ingredients can be very irritating to your skin, eyes and mucous membranes, especially any hot pepper sprays.
Clover underplanting:
Target insects: Aphids, root flies and cabbage butterflies.
To reduce insect damage in the brassica family underplant with white clover (T. repens) or subterranean clover (Trifolium subterranean). works via masking the distinct scent of brassicas.
Elder Leaf Insecticide:
Target insects:Aphids, carrot root fly, cucumber beetles, peach tree borers, and root maggots. It is particularly effective against midges. Elder leaves also have fungicidal properties and may be useful against mildew and blackspot diseases.
To make: simmer 8 ounces of leaves in 16 ounces of water for 30 minutes. Stir this thoroughly, then strain. Take 16 ounces of warm water and mix with 1 tablespoon of castille soap. Add soap mixture to the elder water, spray as needed. Note: Set your sprayer to a coarse or large droplet setting as this mixture will tend to plug a fine setting.
Garlic Spray
Target insects: Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also help to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it will remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic contains naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial agent and fungus preventative. Aphids, cabbage loopers, grasshoppers, June bugs, leafhoppers, mites, squash bugs, slugs and whiteflies. May also help to repel rabbits! Never use oils sprays on Blue Spruce as it will remove the blue waxy coating on the needles! Because garlic contains naturally occurring sulfur it also acts as an antibacterial agent and fungus preventative.
Try our Garlic Barrier!
To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24 hours or longer. Strain.
Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castille soap to this.
Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1 pint of water and spray.
When working with oil sprays you want to monitor the climate conditions so your plants won't get phytotoxic burn. Use this simple equation: Take the current outdoor Fahrenheit temperature then add to this the percentage of humidity, if the total is more than 140 don't spray.
Example: Temperature of 80 degrees plus humidity of 67 percent equals 147, don't spray. You also do not want to spray when temps are above 80F.
Great Fleabane: (Inula conyza) the leaves and roots of this plant make a strong general insecticide. It is also a nice addition to the perennial flower bed.
To make: Take one cup of leaves and or roots. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil and pour over the fleabane, put a lid on this and let it steep for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture, let cool. Mix in a 1/4 teaspoon of pure soap such as castille, spray.
Horseradish Pesticide
How about some alternative uses for this invasive plant?
Target insects: Aphids, blister beetles, caterpillars, Colorado beetles, whiteflies and soft-bodied insects. Maybe even slugs.
To make: Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil, add 2 cups of cayenne peppers, a 1 inch piece of chopped horseradish root, and 2 cups of packed scented geranium leaves, any kind. Let mixture steep for 1 hour, cool, strain and spray. Note: this can be made without the scented geranium leaves if you don't have them to spare.
NOTE
enn State University announced in 1995 that minced horseradish holds promise in decontaminating wastewater and now says it may clean contaminated soils as well!Penn State's center for Bioremediation and Detoxification reports that minced horseradish combined with hydrogen peroxide can completely remove chlorinated phenols and other contaminants found in industrial wastes. Experiments involve applying the mixture directly to tainted soils or growing horseradish in contaminated soil and rototilling the roots just before applying hydrogen peroxide!
The cleansing properties of horseradish have been known for more than a decade, however creating a purified form has been far too expensive. This method has proved to be just as effective, but at a fraction of the cost!
Lime Spray
Target insects: Cucumber beetles, mites and general purpose.
To make: Mix 1 ounce of hydrated lime, 32 ounces of water and 1 teaspoon of castille soap. Use up to twice a week.
Marigold Spray (use pot marigold: Calendula officinalis)
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles, tomato hornworms, leaf cutting and chewing insects, like leaf cutting bees on your roses and lilacs.
To make: Mash 1 cup of marigold leaves and flowers. Mix with 1 pint of water. Let soak for 24 hours. Strain through cheesecloth. Dilute further with 1 1/2 quarts of water then add 1/4 teaspoon of castille soap. Spray target areas.
Orange Peel Spray
Oranges and other citrus fruit contain natural ocurring pesticide compounds called limonene and linalool. These compounds can be used as a treatment for soft bodied pests such as aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs and as an ant repellant.
To Make: Pour 2 cups of boiling water over peelings of one orange. Let this steep for about 24 hours. Strain the mixture into a glass jar and toss the peels into the compost. Use this liquid as a spray mixing in a few drops of castille soap on target insects or on ants and their nests. Smells nice too!
Pepper and Herb Dusts
Target Insects: General
Peppers and certain herbs contain the compound "capasaicin" which will irritate and repel many insects. Cayenne, chili, dill, paprika, red and black peppers can be used as dusts. Purchase the cheapest you can find, or grow hot peppers and dill in your garden. Dry them and pulverize them in a food processor. Sprinkle on moist plant foliage and the surrounding soil.
Pepper Spray
Target insects: All-purpose
Just like the pepper dusts a spray made from hot peppers will release the capasaicin compound to repel insects.
To make:Mix 1/2 cup of finely chopped or ground hot peppers with 1 pint of water. Let this sit for 24 hours. Use as is for a soil drench application or strain the mixture through cheesecloth until you have a clear liquid. Add a few drops of castille soap and use as a foliar application. Keep away from your eyes and skin when using.
Tomato or Potato Leaf Spray
Target insects: Repels asparagus beetles and flea beetles.This will kill earworms and maggots and acts as an antifeedent for other insects.
Plants belonging to the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes etc.) have large amounts of compounds called "alkaloids" in their leaves. These compounds are water soluble and can be extracted by soaking chopped leaves then using as a spray. The toxicity of the alkaloids may account for only part of their effectiveness. The sprays may also attract beneficial insects that follow the chemicals in these plants as a cue in searching for their prey.
To make: Soak 2 cups of chopped tomato leaves in 1 pint of water overnight. Strain this mixture then add another pint of water and 1/4 teaspoon of castille soap a sticker. Spray foliage and soil as needed.
Sugar Drench
Target insects: Bad nematodes! Sugar also adds trace minerals to the soil.
Mix 1/2 a cup of sugar with 1 gallon of water. Stir to dissolve sugar. Pour on the soil around plant roots where you have had nematode problems or use as a treatment prior to planting.
Wormwood Spray
Target insects: Aphids, caterpillars, crawling insects and slugs. May repel snakes.
Caution is advised when using wormwood sprays around plants as it can inhibit growth. Best results are obtained when spraying directly onto the target insect when possible.
See page on wormwood for more details.
To Make:
8 ounces wormwood leaves
4 pints of water
1 teaspoon castille soap
1.Simmer wormwood leaves in the water for 30 minutes. Stir, strain, and leave to cool.
2.Add the castille soap to wormwood mixture and use to spray.
Yarrow Tea
Target insects: Aphids and soft-bodied insects. Also an excellent plant tonic!
Yarrow has insecticidal properties and is also an excellent natural fertilizer. Try mixing this with strong coffee to make a more powerful brew. Yes, coffee, caffeine makes the insects hyper and confused. See: Companion planting: Yarrow. Yarrow is also one of the ingredients used in Golden Harvest fertilizer.
To make:Soak 1 cup of yarrow plant pieces in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours or more. Brew it in the sun like tea. Strain and mix with 1 gallon of water. Mix in strongly brewed coffee and 1/4 teaspoon castille soap. Spray on aphids and other soft bodied pests every 1-2 weeks. Or use as a preventative
KRS Juan
Member
Gnats dont eat plants but their larvae do. The larvae however will only live in or on your growing medium, not the plants or leaves. Full grown gnats will get stuck on sticky buds, but they are brown or black so it doesnt sound like your problem Tex.
If they are eating buds/leaves they are spider mites.
Does nything here look familiar?
http://www.naturescontrol.com/pests.html
I got rid of my gnat infestation by laying about 20 of those sticky yellow strips people use to catch flies across the tops of all my pots. They caught all the adult gnats and no new larvae could be spawned. This was after trying everything from soaps, insectacides, neem, hot shots, nematoads, and anything else I could get my hands on.
I (finally ) got rid of my mite problem using some scary stuff called Avid. 3 drops into a large spray bottle does it and the mites are just flat out gone. You have to wear a mask and gloves, and leave for at least 6 hours, but it does the job and didnt hurt my plants at all. I tried everything mentioned above as well as lady bugs, praying mantis eggs, predator mites, ect. ect.The only problem with this stuff is it can be hard to find and is $100+ a bottle. If you cant find any let me know and I'll aquire some for ya.
Let us know if any pests on the website I mentioned look familiar.
-KRS Juan-
If they are eating buds/leaves they are spider mites.
Does nything here look familiar?
http://www.naturescontrol.com/pests.html
I got rid of my gnat infestation by laying about 20 of those sticky yellow strips people use to catch flies across the tops of all my pots. They caught all the adult gnats and no new larvae could be spawned. This was after trying everything from soaps, insectacides, neem, hot shots, nematoads, and anything else I could get my hands on.
I (finally ) got rid of my mite problem using some scary stuff called Avid. 3 drops into a large spray bottle does it and the mites are just flat out gone. You have to wear a mask and gloves, and leave for at least 6 hours, but it does the job and didnt hurt my plants at all. I tried everything mentioned above as well as lady bugs, praying mantis eggs, predator mites, ect. ect.The only problem with this stuff is it can be hard to find and is $100+ a bottle. If you cant find any let me know and I'll aquire some for ya.
Let us know if any pests on the website I mentioned look familiar.
-KRS Juan-
