Links and helpfull info for outdoor growing in Ireland.

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General soil map of Ireland.

http://www.agresearch.teagasc.ie/johnstown/Soil%20maps/General%20Soils%20map/Map.pdf

This will give you a rough idea of what type of soil is in your area, soil reports and maps for most counties are availabe on the Teagasc website.

Latitude.

The geographical alignment of Ireland indicates latitude of 53 o 00' N and longitude of 8 o 00' W. The particular latitude of Ireland suggests its location in Northern Hemisphere. The country of Ireland has integrated the five-sixths part of Ireland Island amid the North Atlantic Ocean. This terrain is located to the west of Great Britain.
The country of Ireland contains 70,280 square kilometers of area in the Western region of Europe. The gently sloping plain land of this country is encompassed by hills and crags. Numbers of marine cliffs are found on the western coastal zone. The characteristic of Ireland's climatic condition is its average consistent temperature. The ‘maritime temperate' climatic condition of Ireland is featured by gentle winter season along with humid and slightly cool summer. Almost half of the seasons are Cloudy. The latitude and the longitude of Dublin the capital of Ireland are 53 o 20' N and 6 o 15' W respectively. The time followed in Iceland is as per UTC (0).

Knowing your latitude is helpfull when it comes to picking a strain that stands a chance of finishing.

Weather and Day light.

Ireland’s weather is notoriously variable, so providing charts with temperature averages can be a bit tricky. In general, you can expect warm weather (often with high humidity) during the height of summer, occasionally interrupted by thunder storms, and cloudy and rainy weather during the winter. Snow falls in the mountains, but rarely in the cities and towns at lower elevations. Even in winter there are sunny days. The shoulder seasons of spring and autumn are even more unpredictable, as you can experience a bit of everything in very short periods of time.

Temperature

RAINFALL

7day agri. forecast
http://www.met.ie/agri-environment/agri_agri.asp

Day light hours.

http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~subaqua/sun_rise_set_ireland.html

Hope this is helpfull.

 

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[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]SOIL TYPES AND HOW TO TEST THEM[/FONT]


[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]

Soil can be described in many different ways, such as heavy, light, sandy, clay, loam, poor or good. Scientists typically describe soil according to its:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Color[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Compaction[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Moisture content[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Organic content[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]pH[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Profile[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Structure[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Temperature, and[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Texture[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Although each of these factors is important, three factors (texture, organic content and pH) are more important than the others. Regardless, we will provide a brief overview of all nine factors below.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Color[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil color can provide information about organic matter in the soil, drainage, biotic activity, and fertility. The chart below can give you some insight into the condition of your soil just from its appearance. To identify the color of your soil, you should take a garden spade or shovel, and dig a shallow hole, at least 3" - 4" deep, and gauge the color (you should do this quickly before the sun can dry it out).[/FONT]


[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Condition[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Color[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Dark[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Moderately dark[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Light[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]organic matter[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]high[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]medium[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]low[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]erosion factor[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]low[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]medium[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]high[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]aeration[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]high[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]medium[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]low[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]available nitrogen[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]high[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]medium[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]low[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]fertility[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]high[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]medium[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]low[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Compaction[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]To be healthy, a soil needs to be able to breath and water needs to be able to move through it reasonably easily. Compacted soils don't allow much air to circulate to the root zone and water (rainfall or irrigation) tends to just run-off. This increases erosion and strips away vegetation and topsoil. A normal, loosely compacted soil helps to absorb and retain water, releasing it slowly, and allows the root zone of plants to "breath". These soils are generally more productive, since plants can grow much more readily. Dense, highly compacted soils typically have less plant growth, which increases runoff.[/FONT]


[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]The rate of infiltration of water is an excellent indication of soil health. You can measure the water infiltration rate very easily:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]First, get a large, empty coffee can and cut off the bottom.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Second, beginning about 3" up from the bottom, mark the inside of the can every �" with a permanent marker, being careful not to cut your hand on the edges of the can.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Drive the can about 3" into the ground until the first mark is level with the ground (placing a board on the top of the can and pounding the board with a hammer will help drive the can into the ground. Be careful not to irrigate the area first, since this will prevent you from getting an accurate measurement of the infiltration rate.)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Fill the can with water clear to the top and begin timing the rate of infiltration. Measure the amount of water that has drained into the soil at the end of each minute for the first ten minutes. Determine the rate of infiltration in inches per minute by dividing the total number of inches of water that drained away in the can by 10 minutes. Knowing the actual water infiltration rate for your yard is critical if you want minimize the amount of water you use.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Repeat the experiment at several areas around your yard, being careful to record each location and its infiltration rate. If the infiltration rates at each location vary considerably, then draw a quick sketch of your yard, and plot the infiltration rate for that area. If you install an automated sprinkler system, you can adjust the emitters in each area to only deliver the amount of water that can infiltrate in a given amount of time. This will eliminate irrigation run-off from your yard or garden, while ensuring adequate soil moisture for plants.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Sand is the largest particle in the soil. When you rub it, it feels rough. This is because it has sharp edges. Sand doesn't hold many nutrients or water. Silt is a soil particle whose size is between sand and clay. Silt feels smooth and powdery. When wet it feels smooth but not sticky. Clay is the smallest soil particle. Clay is smooth when dry and sticky, or plastic when wet. Soils high in clay content are called heavy soils. Clay can hold a lot of nutrients, and some kinds can hold quite a bit of water, but the structure of clay doesn't let air and water move through it well. Most of the water in a clay soil is so tightly bound to the clay particles that plants can't get it loose.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Moisture[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]The amount if moisture found in soil varies greatly with the type of soil, climate and the amount of humus (organic material) in that soil. The types of organisms that can survive in your soil is largely determined by the amount of water available to them, since water acts as a means of nutrient transport and is necessary for cell survival. Soil moisture can be estimated visually, although this is quite imprecise. Soil moisture can also be determined by a soils laboratory. Soils labs typically dry a sample in an oven or on a hot plate (approximately 225� F for 24 hours) and compare the weight of the soil before drying to the weight after drying. The moisture content is reported as percent moisture on a weight basis. Several irrigation system manufacturers have developed soil moisture indicators that can be used to control irrigation more precisely, turning the system on only in areas where more water is needed and then only for the minimum time necessary to get the soil moisture back up to the desired level.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Organic Content[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]The organic content of soil greatly influences the plant, animal and microorganism populations in that soil. Decomposing organic material provides many necessary nutrients to soil inhabitants. Without fresh additions of organic matter from time to time, the soil becomes deficient in some nutrients and soil populations decrease. The amount of organic material can be determined by ignition. Organic material is made of carbon compounds, which when heated to high temperatures are converted to carbon dioxide and water. In the ignition process, a dry solid sample is heated to a high temperature. The organic matter in the soil is given off as gases. This results in a change in weight which allows for calculation of the organic content of the sample.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Oven-dry the sample to remove water (see soil moisture). Weigh a crucible and lid, evaporating dish and cover, or other covered container. Place approximately 10 grams of soil sample in the container, cover it and weigh the sample, container and cover. Place the container on a metal stand and heat it with a propane torch. Allow the fumes to escape, but not the soil particles. Heat the sample strongly after most of the gases have escaped; continue heating until there are no visible fumes. Cool the container, lid, and sample. Reweigh and calculate the percent of organic material.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil pH[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Most people think that rainwater has a pH of 7, so it comes as something of a shock when they learn that rainwater (if its not polluted) has a normal pH of about 6 - 6.5, which is slightly acidic. This is due to dissolved carbon dioxide from the air, which reacts with water to form a dilute acid (carbonic acid), much like the carbon dioxide in soda. It should then come as no surprise that most plants grow their best at around the same pH*. You can determine the pH of your soil very easily using a universal indicator solution or pH paper, available at most hardware stores in the pool supplies section. To determine the pH, just put a small amount of the soil to be tested in a clear or white container, being careful not to touch the sample. Pour a small amount of universal indicator over the soil, then match the color of the indicator solution (not the soil) with the pH color chart. If you decide to use pH paper, pour a small amount of water on the soil sample. Touch the pH paper to the sample and match to color of the paper to the pH color chart.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial](*Please note that some plants, such as rhododendron, camellias, azaleas, blueberries, ferns, spruce, pines, firs, and red cedar prefer soil that is more acidic, with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0. Other plants, such as beech, mock orange, asparagus and sagebrush tolerate soils with a pH 7.0 to 8.0. Above a pH 8.5, the soil is too alkaline for most plants, while if the soil pH is below 3.5 it will be too acid. You should also note that each layer of soil may have a different pH, which means that pH can vary within the soil, although the differences are usually not too great.)[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil Profile[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]If you really want to know about your soil, the best way to start is to obtain a cross-section of the various layers. This can be done fairly easily if you use a soil core tool. A soil core tool is little more than a hollow tube 2 to 4 feet in length with a handle and cross piece like a shovel to help push it in. Once the tool has been inserted into the soil, it should be turned to loosen the soil and then pulled out. The resulting soil core can be easily examined to identify the various layers (each layer is also called a horizon) in the soil, the aggregate of which is called a soil profile. To determine a soil horizon, you simply mark where the soil changes color and/or general appearance.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Many soils have three major layers or horizons, top soil, subsoil and parent material. Depending on where you sample, the top zone may be comprised of actively growing plants and dead plant materials (for example, if you sample in your lawn.) The top soil is typically darker colored and usually has more organic matter, higher biotic activity, abundant roots, and commonly lower in nutrients than underlying layers. The first inch of top soil may be lighter in color because many of the nutrients may have been leached out by water, and organic material may have been partially oxidized by sunlight and heat. The soil immediately below the first inch is usually somewhat darker, has many roots, moderate organic matter, and provides most of the nutrients for the plants. The next major layer is the subsoil. This layer is typically 1 to 2 feet below the surface and is characterized by a lighter color with much fewer, larger roots. The subsurface layer generally has less clay than the topsoil. The third layer, which may not be observable, is the parent material. This consists of unconsolidated, slightly weathered rocky materials from which soil develops. It is characterized by limited biotic activity and very few roots.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil Structure[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil structure tells how the soil affects the movement of water, air and root penetration into the soil. The geometric shapes of the soil determine how it is put together. Words such as blocky (the blocks of soil are large, with the same number of cracks going horizontal as vertical), granular (the blocks of soil are small, with the same number of cracks going horizontal as vertical), columns (the blocks of soil and related cracks are generally longer in the vertical direction than in the horizontal), and plate-like (the blocks of soil and related cracks are generally longer in the horizontal direction than in the vertical), describe soil structures. To determine the structure of your soil, carefully break apart each layer and match its characteristics with the appropriate structural type shown below.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]STRUCTURAL[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]TYPE[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]WATER PENETRATION[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]DRAINAGE[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]AERATION[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]columns[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]good[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]good[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]good[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]blocky[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]good[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]moderate[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]moderate[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]granular[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]good[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]best[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]best[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]plate-like[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]moderate[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]moderate[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]moderate[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil Temperature[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil temperature has a significant role in helping to determine the rate of plant growth, and whether a plant will even survive. The temperature in your soil changes greatly with depth. To measure soil temperature, find an area that is not in direct sunlight. Using a thermometer, measure the air temperature at shoulder height. Hold the thermometer still for about one minute (make sure your fingers are not on the thermometer bulb), read and record the air temperature. Next, measure the temperature at the surface of the ground. Put the thermometer flat on the ground and record the temperature after one minute. To determine the temperature below the ground surface, use a dowel that you have marked at 1 inch, 2 inches, 6 inches and 12 inches. Start by pushing the dowel into the ground till you reach the 1 inch mark. Remove the dowel and insert the thermometer for one minute, then remove the thermometer and quickly record the temperature. Repeat this procedure to obtain temperature readings at 2 inches, 6 inches and 12 inches. Take temperature readings at different times throughout the day at the same location. To compare with soil temperatures for areas in direct sun, just repeat using the same procedure but select an area that gets full sun. You will note that the soil temperatures in these areas are typically much higher than in the shaded areas.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil Temperature[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Conditions during growing season[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Less than 40� F[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]no growth, bacteria and fungi are not very active[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]40� F to 65� F[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]some growth[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]65� F to 70� F[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]fastest growth[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]70� F to 85� F[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]some growth[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]above 85� F[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]no growth[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Soil Texture[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Sandy soil absorbs more than two inches of water per hour. It is very porous, with large spaces between soil particles. Little water is retained and the sandy soil dries out quickly. Loam soil absorbs from .25 inches to 2 inches per hour. The soil is loose and porous and holds water quite well. Clay soil absorbs less than .25 inches of water per hour. Clay soil is dense with few air spaces between particles and holds water so tightly that little water is available for plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Characteristics of Different Soil Types[/FONT]


[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]It can be argued that no two soils are ever exactly alike. Although this is true, it is useful to group soils into categories. Three major categories of soil dominate our area. These are:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Sandy soil[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Loam soil, and[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Clay soil[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]To figure out what type of soil you have, there are several easy methods. The first, called the rope test, requires that you squeeze a moist, but not muddy, one inch ball of soil in your hand. Then rub the soil between your fingers. Sandy soil feels gritty and loose. It won't form a ball and falls apart when rubbed between your fingers. Loam soil is smooth, slick, partially gritty and sticky and forms a ball that crumbles easily. It is a combination of sand and clay particles. Clay soil is smooth, sticky and somewhat plastic feeling. It forms ribbons when pressed between fingers. Clay soil requires more pressure to form a ball than loam soil, but does not crumble apart as easily.[/FONT]


[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]A second test is called a jar test and is very easy to do. Here's what you'll need:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]1 clean quart jar and tight fitting lid[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]clean water[/FONT]
• [FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]soil sample[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]First, find an empty, clean quart jar (an old mayonnaise jar works very well for this test.) Fill the jar about 2/3 full with clean water.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]

[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]

[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Next, take a sample of soil (break the large clods apart so it will fit through the jar opening) and fill the jar and water until the jar is nearly full, leaving about �" of air space at the top. Screw on the lid and shake it vigorously for a minute or two, until all the soil particles are broken down into suspension in the water.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Now, allow the suspended soil to settle for about a minute, and place a mark on the side of the jar at the top of the layer that has settled out. This is the sand layer is comprised primarily of sand and larger particles. Set the jar aside, being careful not to mix the sand layer that has already settled and wait approximately an hour. Now, place a mark on the side of the jar at the top of the next layer to settle out. This is the silt layer. Again, place the jar aside for a full day, being careful not to shake or mix the layers that have settled out. After 24 hours, or when the water is once again clear (more or less), place a mark on the side of the jar at the top of the final layer. This is the clay layer. The percentage of each layer tells you what kind of soil you have.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Type of Soil[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Example of Test Jar[/FONT][FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Sandy soils are found throughout Southern California, but are very common near the mountain foothills, along rivers and streams and certain coastal areas. Sandy soils are typically comprised of approximately 80 - 100% sand, 0 - 10% silt and 0 - 10% clay by volume. Sandy soils are light and typically very free draining, usually holding water very poorly due to very low organic content.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]

[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Loam soils are also common in Southern California, particularly in the valleys and flat areas (flood plains) surrounding rivers and streams. Loam soils are typically comprised of approximately 25 - 50% sand, 30 - 50% silt and 10 - 30% clay by volume. Loam soils are somewhat heavier than sandy soils, but also tend to be fairly free draining, again, due to typically low organic content.[/FONT]

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]

[/FONT]​

[FONT=Comic Sans MS, Arial]Clay soils are very common in certain areas, particularly around urban areas where fill soils have been used to establish grade in subdivisions and developments. Clay soils are typically comprised of approximately 0 - 45% sand, 0 - 45% silt and 50 - 100% clay by volume. Clay soils are not typically free draining, and water tends to take a long time to infiltrate. When wet, such soils tend to allow virtually all water to run-off. Clay soils tend to be heavy and difficult to work when dry.[/FONT]

 

[ResinKing]

Excellent read and very good information. Did you ever grow in a glass/greenhouse in Ireland , im sure very decent buds could be pulled this way and give you protection from rainfall if its persistant.

 

[Cookie monster]

Hiya resin,

I've vegged plenty of plants in the greenhouse but rarely finished any plants in it because of the high humidity.
All that warm moist still air in my greenhouse is a recipe for mould i'd need to install fans and run a dehumidifier 24/7.

 

[tonto]

great read, thanks for the work put in.

this has also backed up my suspicions on how definitively fucked i am, but ill go on.

 

[Cookie monster]

"this has also backed up my suspicions on how definitively fucked i am, but ill go on."

How'd you mean tonto?

 

[tonto]

im sitting under a dark spot, with shit soil as well

 

[Cookie monster]

Some more on soil.

Some more on soil.

Here's some more stuff that might help sort out your soil tonto.

A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its physical properties, such as water retention, permeability, water infiltration, drainage, aeration and structure. The goal is to provide a better environment for roots.
To do its work, an amendment must be thoroughly mixed into the soil. If it is merely buried, its effectiveness is reduced, and it will interfere with water and air movement and root growth.
Amending a soil is not the same thing as mulching, although many mulches also are used as amendments. A mulch is left on the soil surface. Its purpose is to reduce evaporation and runoff, inhibit weed growth, and create an attractive appearance. Mulches also moderate soil temperature, helping to warm soils in the spring and cool them in the summer. Mulches may be incorporated into the soil as amendments after they have decomposed to the point that they no longer serve their purpose.
Organic vs. Inorganic Amendments

There are two broad categories of soil amendments: organic and inorganic. Organic amendments come from something that is or was alive. Inorganic amendments, on the other hand, are either mined or man-made. Organic amendments include sphagnum peat, wood chips, grass clippings, straw, compost, manure, biosolids, sawdust and wood ash. Inorganic amendments include vermiculite, perlite, tire chunks, pea gravel and sand.
Not all of the above are recommended by Colorado State University. These are merely examples. Wood ash, an organic amendment, is high in both pH and salt. It can magnify common Colorado soil problems and should not be used as a soil amendment. Don't add sand to clay soil -- this creates a soil structure similar to concrete.
Organic amendments increase soil organic matter content and offer many benefits. Organic matter improves soil aeration, water infiltration, and both water- and nutrient-holding capacity. Many organic amendments contain plant nutrients and act as organic fertilizers. Organic matter also is an important energy source for bacteria, fungi and earthworms that live in the soil.
Application Rates

If your soil has less than 3 percent organic matter, then apply 3 cubic yards of your chosen organic amendment per 1,000 square feet. To avoid salt buildup, do not apply more than this. Retest your soil before deciding whether to add more soil amendment.

Wood Products

Wood products can tie up nitrogen in the soil and cause nitrogen deficiency in plants. Microorganisms in the soil use nitrogen to break down the wood. Within a few months, the nitrogen is released and again becomes available to plants. This hazard is greatest with sawdust, because it has a greater surface area than wood chips. If you plan to apply wood chips or sawdust, you may need to apply nitrogen fe
If you plan to apply wood chips or sawdust, you may need to apply nitrogen fertilizer at the same time to avoid nitrogen deficiency.

Sphagnum Peat
Sphagnum peat is an excellent soil amendment, especially for sandy soils, which will retain more water after sphagnum peat application. Sphagnum peat is generally acid (i.e., low pH) and can help Gardeners grow plants that require a more acidic soil.

Manure vs. Compost

Fresh manure can harm plants due to elevated ammonia levels. To avoid this problem, use only aged manure (at least six months old). Pathogens are another potential problem with fresh manure, especially on vegetable Gardens. Compost manure for at least two heating cycles at 130 to 140 degrees F to kill any pathogens before applying the manure to vegetable Gardens. Most home composting systems do not sustain temperatures at this level. Home-composted products containing manure are best used in flower Gardens, shrub borders and other nonfood Gardens.
During composting, ammonia gas is lost from the manure. Therefore, nitrogen levels may be lower in composted manure than in raw manure. On the other hand, the phosphorus and potassium concentrations will be higher in composted manure. Modify fertilizer practices accordingly. Salt levels also will be higher in composted manure than in raw manure. If salt levels are already high in your Garden soil, do not apply manures.

Factors to Consider When Choosing an Amendment



There are at least four factors to consider in selecting a soil amendment:

• how long the amendment will last in the soil,
• soil texture,
• soil salinity and plant sensitivities to salts, and
• salt content and pH of the amendment.

Longevity of the Amendment



The amendment you choose depends on your goals.

• Are you trying to improve soil physical properties quickly? Choose an amendment that decomposes rapidly.
• Do you want a long-lasting improvement to your soil? Choose an amendment that decomposes slowly.
• Do you want a quick improvement that lasts a long time? Choose a combination of amendments

Soil Texture

Soil texture, or the way a soil feels, reflects the size of the soil particles. Sandy soils have large soil particles and feel gritty. Clay soils have small soil particles and feel sticky. Both sandy soils and clay soils are a challenge for Gardeners. Loam soils have the ideal mixture of different size soil particles.
When amending sandy soils, the goal is to increase the soil's ability to hold moisture and store nutrients. To achieve this, use organic amendments that are well decomposed, like composts or aged manures.
With clay soils, the goal is to improve soil aggregation, increase porosity and permeability, and improve aeration and drainage. Fibrous amendments like peat, wood chips, tree bark or straw are most effective in this situation


Adding Nutrients
If you find you need to add nutrients to your soil, you’ll have the choice of organic or inorganic. Inorganic fertilizer has some pluses in its favor. It is usually cheaper than organic fertilizer and it acts more quickly. However, it does nothing for the soil and in some cases actually damages the soil with its higher salt content. So inorganic fertilizers don’t actually amend the soil, they simply feed the plant. It is kind of like a human being trying to survive on vitamin supplements and no substantial food. There have also been some recent studies that claim plants build up a resistance to inorganic fertilizers and require more and more of them to get the same results. That organic fertilizers are slower acting is actually a good thing. They release their nutrients over a period of time. There are many good complete organic fertilizers on the market. A complete fertilizer is one that contains all three primary nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. See How To Read a Fertilizer Label for more information on that. You can also get supplemental nutrition from products like manure and fish emulsion for nitrogen, bone meal for phosphorus and wood ashes for potassium. If you’ve had your soil tested, you’ll know what you need to add


Adding Organic Matter
Back to organic matter, this is the only amendment that aids both the fertility and the texture of the soil. Whether it’s animal manure or plant humus, you will be feeding the soil and the whole ecosystem that exists there. The soil in turn will feed your plants.
There are many types of organic matter.

• Compost makes an excellent amendment and if you are composting your garden waste, it’s free.
• Manure can often be obtained from local farms and stables. Manure should be composted and decomposed until it turns dark, crumbly and odorless. Fresh manure has too much ammonia in it and can burn your plants and offend your neighbors.
• Peat moss is cheap and works well to loosen the soil. It is also very dusty. Wet it first to make it easier to work with.
• You can even work grass clipping and other debris directly into the garden bed to decompose slowly. Be sure whatever you put down is free of seed.
• Cover crops or green manure are crops grown on unused soil with the intent of tilling them in and letting them decompose in the garden. The roots keep the soil loosened as they grow and the plants suppress weeds. Cover crops from the legume family, like clover and vetch, also add nitrogen to the soil.

 

[durpoi]

Some great info! kudos