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Let Me Run My No-Till Plan By You

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
Large chunks of oyster shell could be a areation source with long term Ca slowly becoming available. But not the same as powdered. It's all about surface area.

Aragonite is expensive and only comes from one or two places. Hi calcium lime is cheap cheap cheap. Depends on the cost for a small amount you need.


If you don't add castings dont sweat it. Just make sure you use the highest quality humus source you can find, weither it be castings or compost.

Always add worms. Nothing better in a no till situation. I notice plants do not get root bound with worms. My little 4" pots all have worms and the never get root bound. As long as you provide nutrition in a topdressing the worms will eat old roots and the top-dress to feed the plant. Then the old roots just get turned into castings.

Worms are the backbone of my notill/recycled experience.

As bigdaddy pointed out constant watering is key. You want them to be wet all the time. If 1 is bone dry and 10 will not hold any more water, you want to bounce between a 4 and 8.

As bigdaddy has noticed your nitrogen cycle and microbes take a hit drying out and it take time for them to get going again.

Never never never let them dry out.

Biochar is a specially made charcoal (not to be confused with the cooking charcoal) that increases the nutrient storing compasity and creates homes for microbes.

It should never be used raw. First you should charge it by either soaking it in a bucket with fish hydrolyze or something similar or mixing with you compost for a week before you make your mix.

Biochar is so absorbent that if added raw it will soak up all the notes in your soil and kill hour plants.

Biochar is not needed, and if you add it only use at 10% of your total mix.

I would mix a extra 10 gals. You will need some extra for clones/little ladies and smaller pots.

Oh and ALWAYS use a thick mulch. It will feed the worms and help keep the soil.moist. another valuable tool in notill/recycled gardening.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
Large chunks of oyster shell could be a areation source with long term Ca slowly becoming available. But not the same as powdered. It's all about surface area.

Aragonite is expensive and only comes from one or two places. Hi calcium lime is cheap cheap cheap. Depends on the cost for a small amount you need.


If you don't add castings dont sweat it. Just make sure you use the highest quality humus source you can find, weither it be castings or compost.

Always add worms. Nothing better in a no till situation. I notice plants do not get root bound with worms. My little 4" pots all have worms and the never get root bound. As long as you provide nutrition in a topdressing the worms will eat old roots and the top-dress to feed the plant. Then the old roots just get turned into castings.

Worms are the backbone of my notill/recycled experience.

As bigdaddy pointed out constant watering is key. You want them to be wet all the time. If 1 is bone dry and 10 will not hold any more water, you want to bounce between a 4 and 8.

As bigdaddy has noticed your nitrogen cycle and microbes take a hit drying out and it take time for them to get going again.

Never never never let them dry out.

Biochar is a specially made charcoal (not to be confused with the cooking charcoal) that increases the nutrient storing compasity and creates homes for microbes.

It should never be used raw. First you should charge it by either soaking it in a bucket with fish hydrolyze or something similar or mixing with you compost for a week before you make your mix.

Biochar is so absorbent that if added raw it will soak up all the notes in your soil and kill hour plants.

Biochar is not needed, and if you add it only use at 10% of your total mix.

I would mix a extra 10 gals. You will need some extra for clones/little ladies and smaller pots.

Oh and ALWAYS use a thick mulch. It will feed the worms and help keep the soil.moist. another valuable tool in notill/recycled gardening.

Uuuge (in my best Donald Trump voice) help! You sir, are the shit.

Thank you!
Tri_Cho_Me
 

Shovelhandle

Active member
10 gallons should work fine. You are correct though, it's a little on the small side. And I know of several indoors no-till gardens that work fine.

Why don't you think the benefit will be realized?

Cheers,
Tri_Cho_Me

No-till FARMING prevents soil erosion and protects and maintains the soil biology (worms, beetles, bacterial and fungi) that my be destroyed by tilling under. The benefits occur the second season and thereafter. Growing in bags, how does that relate to tilling or not tilling a field?

So to me the no-till indoor grow makes no sense. Now the organic, living medium mix and all is great but the term just doesn't apply.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
No-till FARMING prevents soil erosion and protects and maintains the soil biology (worms, beetles, bacterial and fungi) that my be destroyed by tilling under. The benefits occur the second season and thereafter. Growing in bags, how does that relate to tilling or not tilling a field?

So to me the no-till indoor grow makes no sense. Now the organic, living medium mix and all is great but the term just doesn't apply.

Does it matter? It's a method, that's it. It's not like I was trying to convince anyone I was doing this with 25 acres...

Good day,
Tri_Cho_Me
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
I call mine limited till.

The advice about worms in the containers is good, I can't imagine not having worms in my containers. I agree it is the backbone of no till. Anybody advising against the practice either hasn't done it or is doing something seriously wrong!
 
I call mine limited till.

The advice about worms in the containers is good, I can't imagine not having worms in my containers. I agree it is the backbone of no till. Anybody advising against the practice either hasn't done it or is doing something seriously wrong!

I'm totally gonna start using #limitedtill on insta now :yes:
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No-till FARMING prevents soil erosion and protects and maintains the soil biology (worms, beetles, bacterial and fungi) that my be destroyed by tilling under. The benefits occur the second season and thereafter. Growing in bags, how does that relate to tilling or not tilling a field?

So to me the no-till indoor grow makes no sense. Now the organic, living medium mix and all is great but the term just doesn't apply.

All it means is letting the soil sit in a large container without remixing it between harvests. It is not trying to compare with no-till farming. It is (IMO) the only way to preserve soil microbial hierarchy.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
All it means is letting the soil sit in a large container without remixing it between harvests. It is not trying to compare with no-till farming. It is (IMO) the only way to preserve soil microbial hierarchy.

Do you think my 10 gallon Smart Pots will be big enough? I know some others have voiced their opinion, but would love to hear yours. What about the recipe? Look ok?

Tri_Cho_Me
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
No till also incorporates the beneficial nature of other plants. White clover can add up to 20 ppm Nitrogen. That's a lot of nitrogen that is fixed. Great for starting and maintaining less aggressive plants. My gardens usually start plants at about 23 ppm Nitrogen, give or take.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
No till also incorporates the beneficial nature of other plants. White clover can add up to 20 ppm Nitrogen. That's a lot of nitrogen that is fixed. Great for starting and maintaining less aggressive plants. My gardens usually start plants at about 23 ppm Nitrogen, give or take.

Thanks for the great info man!

What do you mean when you say "nitrogen that is fixed"? Just that they are constantly giving off nitrogen because it's growing in the same pot?

Thanks for taking the time to stop by!
Tri_Cho_Me
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
10/29 Update

10/29 Update

Hey guys,

I finally was able to shell out some more money to get my no-till plan in motion. Four, 10 gallon Smart Pots. Decided to go with a pre amended soil mix from Build-A-Soil. I just had to add peat moss, pumice and compost. I couldn't find pumice locally, so I opted for lava rock instead. Filtered out many of the larger lava rocks.

I also purchased a fish tank bubbler for 5 gallon bucket teas. I need to research a ton more on these. Still unfamiliar with what Im going to be feeding and watering with.

So, last night, the dirt went in and I broadcasted down some white clover and crimson clover. Our worms are on their way and will be added upon arrival. 1,000 red wigglers. Probably wont do them all in the pots, but that is the least amount we were able to get through the mail.

I dont think the plan is to plant any cannabis yet. We need to wait for our first round to flip to flower before we start vegging the next round. Especially since my veg cabinet (See link in signature) is small and my pots are so big! There is definitely going to be minimal space in there.

Thanks for stopping by!
Tri_Cho_Me
 

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quader

New member
Hey guys,

I finally was able to shell out some more money to get my no-till plan in motion. Four, 10 gallon Smart Pots. Decided to go with a pre amended soil mix from Build-A-Soil. I just had to add peat moss, pumice and compost. I couldn't find pumice locally, so I opted for lava rock instead. Filtered out many of the larger lava rocks.

I also purchased a fish tank bubbler for 5 gallon bucket teas. I need to research a ton more on these. Still unfamiliar with what Im going to be feeding and watering with.

So, last night, the dirt went in and I broadcasted down some white clover and crimson clover. Our worms are on their way and will be added upon arrival. 1,000 red wigglers. Probably wont do them all in the pots, but that is the least amount we were able to get through the mail.

I dont think the plan is to plant any cannabis yet. We need to wait for our first round to flip to flower before we start vegging the next round. Especially since my veg cabinet (See link in signature) is small and my pots are so big! There is definitely going to be minimal space in there.

Thanks for stopping by!
Tri_Cho_Me


Hey bud. That air pump isn't going to give you enough o2 for more than 1gal of tea at a time. Look into creating an air lift setup.
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
Hey bud. That air pump isn't going to give you enough o2 for more than 1gal of tea at a time. Look into creating an air lift setup.

I guess I'll play it by ear and if it doesn't work out, I can grab another. No biggie. Thanks for the heads up though. :)

Tri_Cho_Me
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
Update

Update

Mycelium!!

"The vegetative part of a fungus or fungus-like bacterial colony, consisting of a mass of branching, thread-like hyphae."

Tri_Cho_Me
 

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Rodehazrd

Well-known member
Hello tri_cho_me
Your notill idea sounds like the logical conclusion for those of us focused on growing the microherd I have been reusing some media with good luck. My question is what size is best for a notill depth. Is there a need for more than 16 " ?
Nice thread guys good info.
Rodehazrd
 

Tri_Cho_Me

Member
Hello tri_cho_me
Your notill idea sounds like the logical conclusion for those of us focused on growing the microherd I have been reusing some media with good luck. My question is what size is best for a notill depth. Is there a need for more than 16 " ?
Nice thread guys good info.
Rodehazrd

I guess I wouldn't look at size from a depth perspective. Generally, at least in the US, pots are measured in gallons. I am using 10 gallon Smart Pots, and I think that is close to the smallest you would want to do no-till. Maybe 7 gallons?

That's just my opinion though. I have seen people run, what I would call organic pots, that are basically no-till but it's not truly no-till since they're potting-up throughout the life cycle. Which defeats the purpose of no-till. I mean I've literally seen straw and cover crop used in SOLO cups...

Now, something you could argue for not needing a lot of depth for no-till, is worms. The popular Red Wiggler generally sticks to the upper most couple inches of soil and mulch layer. If you just had Red Wigglers, yes, a shallow pot would work, but I would think it would then need to be super wide so the roots have room.

I am thinking about adding to my Red Wigglers with some regular earthworms. They tend to go deeper than the Red Wigglers. Some people have an affinity with European earthworms, as they supposedly decompose stuff faster. I might just go snag some outside come Spring. They're not of the European variety, but I'm ok with it. I'm not vermicomposting, they're just going in the pots to live in harmony with everything else.

Anyway, hope this helps! And check out my no-till diary in my signature!

Tri_Cho_Me
 
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