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Lemon N Lime Jones

Disso

Active member
I must admit, I was expecting thinner leaves for some reason.
Looking good dude.
They will likely thin out somewhat in flower, but those definitely are some fat ol' indica lookin leaves as of right now! The one I popped, overall it grew and smoked more or less like some pretty heavy indica. Surprised me a little too, given the parentage.

I suppose the Casey Jones used may have leaned more towards the ECSD side, although this is pure speculation. Its just hard to imagine OJD's SSSDH (which he has described as 80:20 SSH:SD), paired with a trainwreck/thai heavy Casey, producing such chunky progeny. Perhaps yours will finish with a bit more sativa influence than my one did.. still early days.

Again, I only grew a single plant of the LnL Jones (only had 1 seed!), so really can't speak with any authority. Just sharing my (limited) experience. Take it for what it is.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
IMG_20240529_171931_HDR~2.jpg

2 huge plants whose stretch is out of control and a slightly shorter one. I'm going to have to cut these right back before flowering, I guess they lean to the oriental express side of the Casey and the haze side of the sssdh.
Internodal distancing is a nightmare and really quite thin stems. I would have repotted these before now, but I'm afraid of the following growth. I'll repot at onset of flowering, post cut back. Being someone else's seeds, I obviously don't know this line or how to get the best of it. I've done ojds ecsdxsssdh before, but these are very different. I'm going to have to get creative with these.
 

ojd

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ICMag Donor
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View attachment 19010150
2 huge plants whose stretch is out of control and a slightly shorter one. I'm going to have to cut these right back before flowering, I guess they lean to the oriental express side of the Casey and the haze side of the sssdh.
Internodal distancing is a nightmare and really quite thin stems. I would have repotted these before now, but I'm afraid of the following growth. I'll repot at onset of flowering, post cut back. Being someone else's seeds, I obviously don't know this line or how to get the best of it. I've done ojds ecsdxsssdh before, but these are very different. I'm going to have to get creative with these.
Casey Jones is very vigorous growing and stretches a few weeks into flowering, SSSDH is even more vigorous and more Sativa so a wild Sativa is expected when growing the Lemon N Lime Jones ?.

SSSDH if grown large before flowering i normally top a week or so before flowering.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Well I knew the risks, I'm just hoping to find something similar to the ecsdxsssdh that I lost. There's somewhere between 0% and 50% (average 25%) genetic diff between the two lines. So yeah I did know this could be the case, and I'm in no way slating the line, but I have to report honestly on what the plants are doing, not for my sake, but so people can plan ahead when they grow it. I know I would do it differently next time. At the end of the day though, once warned, these things can be managed, it's the taste and effect that matters. Something I can't comment on for around 80-90 days yet. So all I can really show right now, is their nature in veg, which is to grow grow grow. In fact if someone grows with netting, this strain would fill it out very quickly.
 

mr.brunch

Well-known member
Veteran
Lovely stuff mate 👍👍

Just in case it’s helpful, the smaller compost suppliers are still allowed to sell the peat based compost… I went to the compost centre Woking, they have a website (I believe there are other outlets) and got their evergreen compost which is peat based and only £6 for 60L … they deliver too.
They also sell 100L bags of straight peat for about £8 but you have to mix that with other compost.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Oh I didn't know that. Peat is brilliant for water only or minimal nutes grows, but now I've paid through the nose for the bottles, and found a compost that works well with them, I'll probably stick with what I've got. I'm starting to think it's less about that perfect medium, and more about the selected clones compatibility with what it's grown in. One sibling may do better in one set up and another in another. So the chosen girls I have now, are probably better suited to this, than the girls I used to run in peat.
For instance, my chemmy Jones loved peat, but it wasn't great in the stuff I use now. My Hamlet clone that I still have, isn't performing that well in this stuff, but all the G13 crosses I run love it.
So I may let the Hamlet go too.
So I guess I'm not looking for "the best cut" from these seeds, but rather one that does the best in my set up, if that makes sense.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Clones taken, 4 from A and C, only two from B? B received one less topping and was still the shortest. Some leaves removed from all.
They are at least sexually mature now, each of them have now thrown a pistil or two, and that's at 24/0 lighting. So I'm prepping them for flower. I set the timer to 20/4. I can't drop it too quickly or they will full on enter flowering. I need to wait until roots show to fully switch to flower, don't want to risk not getting a cutting of the best.
Front middle :A, Back left :B, Back right: C.

IMG_20240601_133305_HDR~2.jpg
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Ok I just looked in on them. There is an issue developing.
B is loving life,
IMG_20240602_193148_HDR~2.jpg


C is unhappy with something
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But A is outright protesting about something
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They all have the same size pot, the same compost, the same nutes, the same light, and have all been side by side the whole way through. I have no idea what the issue is? Any thoughts?
 

Disso

Active member
People often would like for these things to be simple e.g. mag deficiency = need more calmag = problem solved. Rarely does it work like this however. I'll try to keep this concise but there's a bit to consider;

'B' leaf looks like a classic magnesium deficiency, but I notice the tips of serrations appear to be burning similar to A, but much more mild. 'A' very much looks indicative of pH/problems at the root zone.
On both accounts, I suspect this is more about other factors, rather than just a simple deficiency.
You're gonna have to do the bulk of the sleuth work as you obviously know more about your environment and plants than us, but I can offer some thought starters that may be useful.

-Light: What PPFD/DLI are they receiving? You can drive plants pretty hard when they are in peak health but when any one factor begins to get compromised, the plants can no longer be driven so hard without issues.

-Root space/zone: How much soil are they in and how long have they spent in there? Do the roots still have much room in there? Do the containers have drainage holes? Runoff pH? Pest issues?

-Watering: Over/underwatering? Drainage issues impacting root zone and nutrient uptake?

-Airflow/Fans: Are they getting enough fresh air (co2) for them to handle the light intensity? Is there a (relatively) strong fan hitting these two problem plants more than the 'C' plant? 'Wind burn' (too much fan intensity) can mimic various issues/'deficiency'.

It really pays to look at things holistically and consider many factors. Some plants are more fussy/finicky, or just simply more vigorous than others, and you may see issues with some and not others due to this. That can be simply genetic, or because the differences in genetics have sparked differences in how you care for them, perhaps a combination of both.

On my current run, I had a similar situation, with the more vigorous plants kicking a bit of a fit when they ran out of room in their 4.7L containers. I think the other thing with larger plants in relatively small pots, is it can become more challenging to nail watering as your window for ideal watering times becomes smaller.

Hope that helps and you get it figured out! Cheers.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
It's odd, large plants in little pots isn't something I normally struggle with
IMG_20240603_104129_HDR.jpg

The only issue is getting light to the under and inner leaves. This one is a black G# x ecsdxsssdh. I do treat her in any way that's convenient at the time and she just chugs along.
I think the issue is less about nutes or roots, and more about the light. I doubled the intensity and clearly, these like things to change slowly, rather than that quickly. I'll drop the light intensity and increase it more slowly. See if that improves things. If not I'll repot them. But I never use drainage holes. Causes far more issues that it solves. I also insist that keepers aren't finicky.
Plant B may just turn out to be the keeper of this round.
 

Disso

Active member
It's odd, large plants in little pots isn't something I normally struggle with
I wasn't necessarily suggesting that was the problem here, but just one of many points for consideration and was at least the case for me recently, although I grow in water only organic soil so its a bit of a different dynamic.

I think you're probably on to something with the light intensity though by the sounds of it.
With that being said, I just about guarantee your plants would be at least a little healthier in more soil volume, although there's probably diminishing returns at some point unless you're talking about planting straight into the earth. Not struggling vs. Peak health.. I guess it just depends what your goals are.

Anyway I won't harp on about it, don't wanna come across like some soil volume spokesperson, some industry shill to sell you more growing medium LOL ;)
Everyone has different priorities in growing and different constraints/situations to work with so often its more about preferences and differences than right and wrong.

I am curious though, what are these issues that drainage holes cause? Genuine question. I've never heard anyone cite issues with them before is all so its news to me, but I'm always down to learn something new.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Oh I'm not intending to leave them in small pots, it's just the second I up-pot them, I know they will go on a crazy growth spurt, and being in tents rather than a greenhouse, I just don't have the room for that, so I'm not repotting until I'm ready to flower them. And I can't do that until the clones have rooted. So my aim right now is to stall them until they can go into circulation proper.
The holes thing 😁. Well ignoring the whole virus thing (anything new needing quarantine even in seed form) whereby it can be spread by ground water, there's also the leaching of nutes from soil and running away in the run off water. Thereby reducing the nutes available in the soil for roots. Then you have to add more nutes to keep them happy. Which is a pain. I'd rather only add what's needed and not what I previously washed away.
Then there's also the fungus gnat issue, where they can get access to wet soil through the bottom of tubs with lots of drainage holes, but without, they have to travel through an upper layer of dry crusty compost most days, unless I just watered, which is something they dislike so much, I no longer suffer from them.
No holes just makes more sense all round, so long as someone is confident they won't over water and drown the roots.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Still waiting for cuttings to root before repotting them.

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On the right there's A, top, B middle and C bottom. Ignore the others, they're other keepers.

IMG_20240610_164228~2.jpg

A,B and C, left, middle and right.

I've cut them back again to reduce hight, I may cut them again before flower. There's lots of sites still they can branch from, but they seem to need encouragement to branch, preferring instead to reach for the light.
 
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