LED Custom 140

[guest456mpy]

knna , I wrote journals documenting my initial build on another site. I will not quote it publicly because I respect Gyspy Nirvana and do not wish to steer traffic from his site. My reference to Heitz's law was to support our mutual work and to show the best is yet to come. Once again LEDGirl's gear certainly wasn't the worst, only her boastful claims that she was using the most advanced technology. which she wasn't.

That's all you'll hear from me on the subject! I'm old, retired and am inclined to leave the serious studies to you and SupraSPL.

Best of luck and good karma to you both!

 

[SupraSPL]

Thanks blim and hempy! Because of the newest LEDs KNNA got his hands on I decided to tear down the 140 watter and retrofit it with the 660nm reds and the new LX bin whites. The new lamp will use 6 heatsink modules and will dissipate about 250 watts.

I had to redo the traces because I wanted to run the reds separate so now the 635s have their own string, the 660s have their own string and the whites have their own. The reds will be run at about 450mA and the whites at 700mA.

I decided to scrap the blues for now to see if I could improve color mixing. The GD whites have a nice blue peak at 440nm so hopefully it will control stretching well enough. The first three modules are already done and I can't wait to give them a try.



Another new project is a small vegging lamp that dissipates 40 watts with 6 small modules. It is replacing about 80 watts of CFL. I am already seeing faster growth even with the lamp running at half power 20 watts. I can't say enough good things about LED for vegging, KNNA is right on!



One more small 30 watt test with the old LED before it got tore it down and some of the girls gave amazing results. One Puna Budder girl gave up 1.5 grams per watt and the bud was top notch sticky dense and dank. I am excited to see what the new lamps can do because we are still zeroing in genetics, soil, ferts, water and curing so much to look forward to! This girl gave 7.5 grams of cured bud from 5 dissipation watts, chopped at 9 weeks. It was in a 1.5 liter pot with reused soil and fed Blue Mountain Organics liquid ferts + organic blackstrap molasses. Two buds in the center were chopped before the pic. Looks like it would have yielded better if it was kept tighter but hell I am not complaining.

 

[joe4444]

SupraSPL, Hempyguy, knna, blimblom, DIYer:

I started writing a response and then realized it was mostly off topic as this is more of a technical conversation, and I don't want to hijack the thread. Hempyguy started this thread, so I'm posting there instead. You guys all seem to know your stuff, so I want to pick your brains. I hope to see you over there. Thanks!

 

[SupraSPL]

Finally got 5 of 6 modules refitted with the 660nm and the LX whites. Once all 6 are done it will dissipate 250 watts and draw about 280 watts input power. From what KNNA has been reporting the red/white combo should be a good all around spectrum and since I like a wide variety of strains that is perfect. The color mixing is slightly better than the red white blue I was using before.

 

[Weezard]

Brilliant!

Brilliant!

Finally got 5 of 6 modules refitted with the 660nm and the LX whites. Once all 6 are done it will dissipate 250 watts and draw about 280 watts input power. From what KNNA has been reporting the red/white combo should be a good all around spectrum and since I like a wide variety of strains that is perfect. The color mixing is slightly better than the red white blue I was using before.

It did seem more patriotic than pragmatic.

This beast, I like.
Have not personally found any advantage to white leds over jus' blue, So, I'm sittin' up an payin' attention to this build.
Nice work, Supra.

Aloha,
Weeze

 

[SupraSPL]

THNX Weez. I have two vegging areas, one that includes red white blue and one that is just red/white. So far they are both performing very well but it is too soon to decide if one is more efficient or effective than another.

As far as flowering goes the red/white combo might be going the wrong way in terms of efficiency. But if it falls short in some way it will be easy to swap out a few white for a few blue since they can both run on the 700mA string. I would not be surprised if some strains preferred more blue or white than others and it would only take a few minutes to switch the colors or modules as needed.

I have been meaning to track you down are you working on anything new lately. Also have you had the chance to try any local Puna?

 

[blimblom]

christmass is early lol lol

vegging area only with red white??? thats an interesting experiment at what density did you use them (w/r ratio)??

PS your construction is pure poetry

 

[Weezard]

Consider me tracked down.

Consider me tracked down.

THNX Weez. I have two vegging areas, one that includes red white blue and one that is just red/white. So far they are both performing very well but it is too soon to decide if one is more efficient or effective than another.

A man after me own heart.
He wants to know sumpin', he tries sumpin'.

As far as flowering goes the red/white combo might be going the wrong way in terms of efficiency. But if it falls short in some way it will be easy to swap out a few white for a few blue since they can both run on the 700mA string. I would not be surprised if some strains preferred more blue or white than others and it would only take a few minutes to switch the colors or modules as needed.

And we all learn sumpin'

I have been meaning to track you down are you working on anything new lately. Also have you had the chance to try any local Puna?

All kine sing, brah.
(berry busy mind, yah?)
But, it's late n I'm 'bout outta steam.
My brain gets ticked off, if I no let it dream.

Took a clue from the natural order of things and filled my ice cube tray with aerated water.
(Makes very cloudy cubes)

My new easy germ method.

Poke a hole in treated coco,
inna beeg, red, plastic, cup.
Place a seed into dat hole,
an' make da pointy end, point up.

Slap an ice cube on dat pile.
Den burn one an' wait a while.
Both my thumbs r inky black.
Used to was, I couldn't grow Jack.

Nature's what it's all about.
Now dem pricey seeds ALL sprout.

Think about it.
Makes a certain, deranged kinda sense, yah?

Did I try any Puna butter?
Where you t'ink dat quality, pidgin, doggerel comes from?

Howzit witchoo brah?

Wee.

 

[SupraSPL]

Hey Weez. Interesting idea with the coco and ice cube. I haven't experimented with coco yet but I plan on looking into it more soon. I have tried TH Seeds Puna Budder and I have no complaints! Great growth and yield. Surprisingly uppy high from an Indica dom. The strangest thing is the variety of aromas I have seen from just 3 females. One is extra dank spicy hashy smell, one is a strange oniony sweet coffee and the other is a sweet koolaid flowery smell. Very unique and unmistakable. The strange aromas carry through to strange tastes in the smoke too. Next up is Mr Nice's Spice have you tried that one?

 

[SupraSPL]

THNX Blimbom. The red/white vegging area is using 4 leds on each module. (1) 635nm (1) 660nm (2) cool white Q4s. They are all on the same string running at the same current at the moment ~350mA. So it is a 1:1 ratio of red/white but the whites are dissipating 50% more than the reds.

This is a sativa dom Qleaner that has been vegging under the red/white module for 2 weeks. The density in the lower area is because this clone was taken during flowering so was revegging, but the stretch up top seems to be under control well enough.



I am noticing a slight interveinal chlorosis but I haven't sorted out why that is. It is vegging damn fast compared to the old fluoros though.

 

[alkalien]

@SupraSPL

had the same problems, could get rid of it by adding Mg. Looks to me like LED plants need more of it...

 

[SupraSPL]

I have been playing around with Epsom salts and it does seem to help. The leaves that get the most light grow the fastest and also show the most deficiency. Stinkyattic always said the Epsom should be foliar fed so I will start experimenting with that. I finally got a PPM meter so I can keep track of how much it takes to solve the problem.

 

[alkalien]

Alle leaves already damaged won't become green again but those salts should do the trick!

 

[knna]

Just be aware that if the leaves which showed signs first were the top ones, usually is not Mg deff but Fe deff. Its mostly caused by high medium ph.

I see medium leaves affected, and it usually happen with Mg and not Fe deff, except if the Fe one is very advanced. Confirms what leaves were the first on showing the intervenal chlorosis, treatment is different for both.

 

[SupraSPL]

True, the parts of the leaves that are totally yellow did not come back but many other parts that were only partially yellowish came back to a deep green.

Good point about the possible iron deficiency. Many plants show this deficiency on upper leaves or whichever leaves are getting the most light. I saw a chart today that said yellowing leaves on top can be S or Fe deficiency.

In some of my reused soil mixes the PH runoff is stuck at 6.8, maybe I used too much dolomite lime when recycling the soil? I thought I would be OK because I use R/O water but if not that could explain an iron lockout in those cases.

On the other hand the plant in the picture above is in miracle grow organic choice potting soil which has a much lower PH ~5-6 (I will verify it next watering) The plant in the pic is less severe than some others that are in my soil mixes.

 

[alkalien]

I found that on youg and small plants Mg def shows on top leaves. Why, I don't have an idea...

Glad the MgSO4 did help you!

 

[knna]

I found that on youg and small plants Mg def shows on top leaves. Why, I don't have an idea...

Glad the MgSO4 did help you!

Yep, it happen sometimes. Seeing if leaves affected are top ones or medium low helps narrowing the cause, but never is safe 100%. Actually, I think it may be Mg, just I wouldnt discard Fe as the problem.

If run off is 6.8 and watering Ph is lower, it can point up to a higher soil ph. Over 6.8 appear problems on Fe avalaibility. So I think you are on the edge. A way to be sure is measure soil ph directly: mix 2 parts distilled water with 1 part soil from one pot (preferably, taking a bit of different parts, included inner ones) (fill 1/3 of a glass cup with soil, and the next with distillerd water). Shake, let rest for a while, repeat 2-3 times and let it rest for at least 1h. After that time, strain and measure water run off, it will be very close to actual soil ph
(some people do it with a coffee maker, put soil on the cup, tap water, heat; let "soil coffee" cool and measure it, its a good way to do it if you dont have distilled water at hand).

Epsom salt works very fast on foliar application. If you apply it this way and problem isnt fixed on a pair of days after it, likely is not a Mg problem. So as single foliar application wont hurt, try it and if it dont work, do it with some algae extract (they are usually rich on iron).

 

[SupraSPL]

Good info on the soil test. I tested a batch that I am composting for reuse and it tested ~6.5. I tried a batch of the Epsoma soil and it came up about 5 and then rose to 5.5 overnight.

Many of the plants are showing healthier new growth now. Unfortunately I changed so many variables I still really don't know what the problem(s) were. I foliar fed with epsom and also foliar fed with Blue Mountain Organics foliar harmony 2-4-2. Also I added Blue Mountain Organics Grow it Green 5-2-5 to the feed water at about 300ppm.

One thing is for sure though, the LED is not causing my issues. This is a Mr. Nice Spice bean that was planted 18 days ago. It was germed in Epsoma Seed starter mix and the cotyledons are still healthy and growing even though it is working on the 3rd and 4th leaf set. It does well under the red white blue section and the red white section.

 

[one Q]

great thread

 

[SupraSPL]

Thanks Q

Spice seedling 24 days since it was planted. Vegged 24/0 under the red/white LED. It is working on its 6th set of leaves hopefully showing preflowers soon. Looks like it is ready for its first shot of ferts and a pot up. Maybe if it was started in a bigger pot (400ml in pic) it could have been even bigger. Surprisingly the cotyledons are still green and growing.