Brand? Like Ace Hardware hydroponic nutrients?
They'll let anyone make a line of nutes these days...
LED and BUD QUALITY
- Thread starter Thread starter Tropical Sun
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They'll let anyone make a line of nutes these days...
Yea i know ..I have to have it the wrong way around
I have to have it outside the tent, no room in side there. i know it’s not good for the motor. but it’s on the lowest possible setting so there isn’t much load on it
It has a controller unit but even on the lowest setting it’s a bit too much to run full time all year around
Aristoned
Active member
Two from MG and one from “expert gardener”?
Idk, it has 24:8:16 so I figured it would be a good nursery to mother nutrient. The 18:18:21 is good for mothers and carries some Mg and the 15:30:15 is for flowering.
Then GH Cal/Mag just in-case.
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Ca++
Well-known member
If you have an AC fan, slowed through voltage lowering, the power consumed doesn't drop much. Even though the speed did. This can lead to overheating, as the slower fan has a reduced volume of air though it. Air that should cool it. It's not commonly seen, but further blocking it, wouldn't be helpful. You could engineer a solution though. Duct added to your extract system, that joins the fans outlet, to it's inlet. This recirc route, lets the fan shift it's air volume, just round in circles. Through the added recirc duct, that will loose heat through its walls. If your extract system was #mm in size, and the recirc that same #mm, then the bypass virtually stops air passing through from tent to outside. You would have to throttle the bypass down (with a butterfly duct valve for example) in order to make the fan get air from the tent. As air from the tent is hard work, when the bypass is so damned easy.
If you have an EC fan, forget a recirc duct. Your fan is truly running on low power. Thermal problems abated. Block it with whatever you choose. Fancy drilled pipe. A sock. Nylon stocking filter. Or a butterfly valve. If you search for instances of me saying butterfly, you may find a recent thread where I linked to some. $20 ought to cover it.
Ca++
Well-known member
The Mg increase talk, came from a reputable grower, who was guessing the future it seems. Simply put, further chlorophyll production would use more Mg, as it's at the center of that molecule. It was a reasonable idea, but straight after Mg, we then need N, and soon enough trial and error showed us that more of everything was needed, to grow more of everything. Back then I myself was looking at what an LED feed would look like, beside an HID feed. Many were saying it looked like calmag, and let us not forget that stuff adds the Mg spoke of, the Ca for lower temps, but secretly a lot of N also. Just no PK, so it was fine in veg. Manageable through bloom. Ultimately is was probably wrong though. The plants seemed to adapt quicker than we did, and feeds never changed to meet the change in lighting.
The haters just want someone to justify them spending way too much on nutes lol
Ca++
Well-known member
I was using the 24:8:16 as a locally available N supplement. Calnit is controlled here.
Some soil feeds hang on to the idea that luxury P is good, but it seems the users of these, often run half strength. Their is a big P misunderstanding hanging on from the past. People using magnitudes more than they should. To detrimental effect. One of the first reasons to apply excess, is to make them stretch. For seed they store a good dose. It doesn't taste great though. It's Chemically. It really needs keeping in check. One route is starting high, as it's in demand for storage, and we want happy plants. Later make them use some of it.
Perhaps 2 parts 18 18 21 to one part 13 0 37 (potassium nitrate) could make 16-12-30 which is close to my numbers.
Edit: We can't buy decent amounts of Pot-nit in the UK, as it raises flags.
The good thing about my ventilator set up is that the carbon scrubber is made with carbon granules, it’s not a paper filter, so and there isn’t much resistance when air is pushed through it
Ca++
Well-known member
The typical mixed flow (TT) fan has it's airflow halved by the appropriate filter. It's why I use a centrifugal. They're not even half as bothered by the filter. Even so, if the bypass can offer enough flow to satisfy the fans capacity, then the fan has nothing left to give. The carbons small resistance, however small, needs comparing to that of the bypass, to see how the fan will ratio out it's efforts between them.
Have my fan out my tent, and recently split it to draw from two filters. One in the tent, one in the room. I put a butterfly on the tent filter, as I wanted heat and rh, but the room still under strong negative pressure. The disparity between the filters was eye opening. I put the butterfly on the wrong filter. The one in the room, now holds a bubble-wrap jacket around half of it. So as it make the tent one take in air. The tent has 3 passive inlets, but the resistance to flow that the tent offers, made the fan mostly use the other filter. So I'm not throttling the tent filter to slow it. I'm trottling the room filter to make the tent one do enough.
A recirculating bypass gets sucked upon as hard as the filter, but the bypass is also being blown down. It has the fan at both ends.
If the red route can satisfy the fan, the blue route needs the filter taking off, to get near half the fans flow. If the filter can drain half the fans power (as is typical) The bypass gets most of the air. A filter is a lot more than no filter.
Perhaps helpful to someone.
You might have heard wrong – it's usually more calcium.
Have you got an expanded view of that chart?
Aristoned
Active member
Plenty of calcium in tap water!
The tap water I have seems to work fine for my plants, if it didn’t I would get a reverse osmosis filtration system.
Not really; not all tap water has calcium and the amount can vary wildly. Further, it's not in a form readily available to plants and needs to be broken down by microbes to be plant available nutrition. In this way it's very similar to calcium sulfate, aka gypsum.
For instance, my tap water is EC 0.052 and that's the aggregate, not just the calcium fraction. Even if it was all calcium, it's not nearly sufficient for plant growth.
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
That’s why I tell people to get a water report before going ro.
For sure; RO does me no good at all.
Aristoned
Active member
Most of the US has calcium deposits, it is the main source of contamination. It isn’t a problem for my plants in my area, I didn’t test the ppm I just read the plants.
I’m not saying it is only calcium or that the amounts are the same, just that calcium is the most prominent from my recollection.
Yep, if it doesn’t help then spend the money on something else that will improve your system.
Same. I haven’t tested my water but the plants like it just fine.
Ca++
Well-known member
Most bottled feeds are formulated to fit around tap. There is an expectation of EC0.4 for the Canna range, for example. If you use RO, they will sell you the stuff you take out, to put it back again.
Bro Science:
Gypsum might take some work with microbes, but taps likely calcium carbonate. It raises pH, and the acid lowers the pH by cancelling it. Nitric is the better choice, as it full disassociates in solution. Phosphoric is half as good. This is why Phosphoric buffers better. It's not as available to do some work, so isn't depleted so much. Meaning, in part, that your pH is lower because of it's presence, rather than because it smoked the carbonates off as co2 bubbles. Which leave over time, raising the pH again
The use of RO and calnit doesn't offer the same stability. Of pH or EC. I have the option to use RO, but my tap water is better.
Bro Science:
Gypsum might take some work with microbes, but taps likely calcium carbonate. It raises pH, and the acid lowers the pH by cancelling it. Nitric is the better choice, as it full disassociates in solution. Phosphoric is half as good. This is why Phosphoric buffers better. It's not as available to do some work, so isn't depleted so much. Meaning, in part, that your pH is lower because of it's presence, rather than because it smoked the carbonates off as co2 bubbles. Which leave over time, raising the pH again
The use of RO and calnit doesn't offer the same stability. Of pH or EC. I have the option to use RO, but my tap water is better.
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