southpaw
Member
Whew... okay, deep breaths everybody.
One. T5s, under optimal growing conditions with healthy plants and good ventilation, belong no more than three inches away from the tops. Your plants will not burn unless the tips of their leaves are touching the bulbs. 1 inch might have been cutting it close, and you may not have been getting good airflow between the bulbs and the tops, but that is not the cause here. For right now though, with your plants suffering lockout symptoms, I'd go ahead and raise the lights. No point forcing growth when the plant is stressed.
Two. Nothing about the yellowing pattern here says Mg deficiency. It started at the tops of your plants and at the growth tips, and also is yellowing out your leaves from the base to the tip. Mg makes leaves chlorotic from the edges inward (between the veins), and tends to affect old leaves first.
That stuff aside.
Was your "flower soil" preferted in any way? Even if it wasn't, you used products that in all likelihood shot P levels way over where they need to be. Bio Root contains P from rock phosphate, and all worm casting products contain P because worms enrich this element greatly with their digestion. There is really no reason to use a "root stimulant" on plants this young anyhow, and all that P has locked iron uptake at the rootzone.
My .02.
A quick fix would be to get them out of that overferted soil, and transplanted into a fresh mix, preferably something very, very light on nutes but with a good organic worm casting. They are just big enough that I could see them surviving a transplant, although I'm always leery of transplanting young plants with underdeveloped root balls.
If you decide against that, find a B1 product with iron, or better yet a kelp product, and foliar feed them with a very dilute spray. This won't fix the rootzone imbalance, but it will give them a quick shot in the arm of iron. As for watering, a B1/ iron/ zinc mix at no more than half the recommended label dose, and with runoff to about the volume of the container. Make sure the PH of the water is right around 6.5 to 7. This will leech the soil of some of that excess P.
Hope this helps. Your plants will be just fine.
One. T5s, under optimal growing conditions with healthy plants and good ventilation, belong no more than three inches away from the tops. Your plants will not burn unless the tips of their leaves are touching the bulbs. 1 inch might have been cutting it close, and you may not have been getting good airflow between the bulbs and the tops, but that is not the cause here. For right now though, with your plants suffering lockout symptoms, I'd go ahead and raise the lights. No point forcing growth when the plant is stressed.
Two. Nothing about the yellowing pattern here says Mg deficiency. It started at the tops of your plants and at the growth tips, and also is yellowing out your leaves from the base to the tip. Mg makes leaves chlorotic from the edges inward (between the veins), and tends to affect old leaves first.
That stuff aside.
Was your "flower soil" preferted in any way? Even if it wasn't, you used products that in all likelihood shot P levels way over where they need to be. Bio Root contains P from rock phosphate, and all worm casting products contain P because worms enrich this element greatly with their digestion. There is really no reason to use a "root stimulant" on plants this young anyhow, and all that P has locked iron uptake at the rootzone.
My .02.
A quick fix would be to get them out of that overferted soil, and transplanted into a fresh mix, preferably something very, very light on nutes but with a good organic worm casting. They are just big enough that I could see them surviving a transplant, although I'm always leery of transplanting young plants with underdeveloped root balls.
If you decide against that, find a B1 product with iron, or better yet a kelp product, and foliar feed them with a very dilute spray. This won't fix the rootzone imbalance, but it will give them a quick shot in the arm of iron. As for watering, a B1/ iron/ zinc mix at no more than half the recommended label dose, and with runoff to about the volume of the container. Make sure the PH of the water is right around 6.5 to 7. This will leech the soil of some of that excess P.
Hope this helps. Your plants will be just fine.
to transplant them at the moment, so I guess the foliar feed (by B1 did you mean the vitamin?) I'll try to find somthing with Iron, feed via the leaves and give the youngsters a good flush as you advised. 
