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Lap Does LEDs - My DIY Quantum Board Cabinet

G

Gr33nSanta

Lapides said:
I dont know if I've just never looked that closely at my plants this early or what, but I've got a fair amount of resin going on both plants at day 15 -

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that is not rare, a lot of strain produce copious amounts of resin early. your plants look great! sorry for my ignorance, what do you mean with CO3 and CO4? or was that a joke?

Ive never ran CO2, fresh air 24-7 has always worked well for me I can't imagine changing the way I do things. Still curious about it all, who knows some day I might run a legit greenhouse.
 
Lapides

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
Too easy

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X

x86ricer

New member
Absolutely Amazing

Absolutely Amazing

Just stumbled onto this thread and i have gotta say I am quite impressed. Seem like a perfect personal grow.

Lapides (and everyone else), would you recommend the 3500k or 4000k spectrum? I really want to make a light like this that can be used for Veg and Flower. Still trying to figure out what will be the best method. Using the rigid constant current strips or the flex strips from a reel.

When considering the flex strips, I thought one of their main benefits of using the current limiting resistors on the strip was so you could use a standard 24v power supply instead of a constant current supply. Not to mention that you can cut them to the length you need. Well as long as that length lines up with the cut points. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

While researching the rigid constant current strips I ran across an interesting product with 5000k(90CRI) and 2700k(90CRI) on the same strip. Its the Bridgelux BXEB-TL-2750G-3000-A-13
strip.

Data Sheet: https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/def...le White Linear Data Sheet 20171002 Rev A.pdf

What seemed interesting to me other than the 90CRI is that they kept the two led colors on their own circuits. This way you could adjust the proportions of each kelvin rating to your liking. The spectrum in the data sheet looks pretty promising.

I would be interested to know what you guys think. I won't be able to afford to do this more than once, so I have to make sure I do it right the first time.
 
Lapides

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
The 3500k samsungs I can say for sure veg and flower VERY well. I have a light made with the 4000k too. Plants veg very well under that one too but I havent flowered under it yet so I can't say for sure how well it will do.

When I was planning this project, in my head I wanted the light that will give me the most lumens per watt and at the time these samsungs were the one. The 3500k are rated at 201lm/W and the 4000k are 207lm/W. Those numbers crush the Bridgelux ones by quite a bit as they're only 135lm/W.

The first light was made with the rigid strips and the 2nd one was made with the reel. You don't have to solder with the rigid strips which is nice, but you have to glue or screw them on to your heatsink which I really don't like too much. The flexible stuff sticks right on there and you can cut them to size.
 
Dislexus

Dislexus

the shit spoon
Veteran
So this current run is still under the 3500k for flowering?

Hey do you have live worms in your bed? Did you till/cycle out the dirt after your last harvest, or is it no-till? I've been making worm tea lately with store bought castings and now I feel myself being sucked into farming them dammit.
 
Dislexus

Dislexus

the shit spoon
Veteran
I see some intravenal necrosis on some leaves, I think your plants have a lead deficiency. I used to live in Flint, Michigan and never had the problem then, but since I've moved I have been getting leaded soil from a nearby superfund site -- they just let you take all you can carry for free! You could also try adding old paint chips to your worm bins. Just trying to help. I find it really adds weight to my final harvest.
 
Dislexus

Dislexus

the shit spoon
Veteran
Vanilla Phoenix said:
Adding paint chips could turn your soil mix to a cement like consistency....I'd be careful. Lol
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You're using the newer latex-based paint chips, that's why. Gotta use the old lead-based paint chips. You can find plenty of primo chips in old inner city neighborhoods. Below 4 ft or so on the walls will usually have spots of missing chips painted over using the latex-based paint, so its best to harvest your lead-based paint chips from 5 ft and higher.
 
C

CannaBruh

Member
Cannabis is great at soil remediation, mmmm lead

Your grow looks fantastic Lapides, LED for the win

One of these days you might try defoliation after the stretch and compare to your other runs?
 
nameless

nameless

bowlbreath
Veteran
CO4 is good but the real secret elite CO is CO#5

CO5 + lead paint = win.

in all seriousness lap your grow looks perfect! if you ever open up a biz and sell those lights ill be first in line. i might see if i cant build one myself one handed... gonna go back and look at your thread.

i would also be curious to see you defoliate for a comparison.
 
S

St. Phatty

Active member
nameless said:
in all seriousness lap your grow looks perfect! if you ever open up a biz and sell those lights ill be first in line.
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That's just what I was thinking !

Also, the modular approach seems new. Most lights are 1 light to cover a 4x4 area or something. But what if a grower has a 5x4 area - they need one whole light, and a 1/4 light (a single strip of LED's). Your design solves that problem, you would just need a way to attach the extra strip to the main light.

What are you using for DC power ? For my own LED project attempts, I used computer power supplies. That got a little more complicated with the power supplies that don't have an obvious power switch. The work-around is to connect the green wire to the black wire. I usually use a paper clip for that.
 
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