What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

KungPOW!!! makes a FLIP/FLOP

D

DB2004

From what I've seen, too many people are building flip/flops with the wrong relays that are not capable of handling the voltage spike and constant voltage powering the lamp. I also see people using copper wire rated at 300 volts. This wire is meant for residentail wiring and has a maximum rating of 300 volts, not 600 volts. Before you attempt to build any device that requires high voltages, be very sure you know what you're doing. I custom build flip/flops, timers, load centers, controllers, thermal shutdowns for any application. PM me here or send an email to [email protected].

Best Regards

DB
 
nUt_jOb said:
Ok I set out to do this my way.. its not everyones way but its mine..

This is my setup for the cheap and easy 1 ballast to 2 light flip flop. I am using a 600 watt digital ballast to power two lights with this flip flop. Its cheap and easy just like me. I have tested it and it works, I expect it will continue to do so for quite some time. I will post here if I have any issues.

Supplies:

1 - Relay (DPDT 120VAC with a 15A [1/3 HP] rating) {$8}
1 - 10 foot 14 guage extension cord {$7}
1 - Electric project box {$9}
1 - Female Cord adapter {$3}
1 - Male Cord adapter {$3}

Total cost $30

And that 30 bucks is much better than another $260 digital ballast! Anywho, relays say how they should be wired on them (if they dont.. dont buy it!!). Dont expect the person in the store you go to to have any idea what DPDT (double pull double throw) means. Also dont let them lead you astray.. many dumbasses that work at radiocrack dont know their ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to real electrical goodies anymore. All they know is COMISSION and they will sell you anything. so.. know before you go!

You can look at the pics and see I have the output of the ballast coming into the box and getting tossed between two outputs. If you look closely at the sexing of the connectors you can see I set it up where if I dont want to use the flip box I can plug one light directly to the ballast (like if I am cleaning up one room between cycles and dont need it lit for a couple days). You will notice two other unwired relays in the box... they are for the future

I used some grommets around the electrical cords and fancy connectors that I found at the bottom of my goodie bin to connect to the relay. Also note and this is...

IMPORTANT: I took these pictures before connecting all the ground wires (green wires) as to be more pleasing to the eye and easier to understand. I have since connected all the ground wires to each other!

The relay(s) is superglued to the box and it aint goin anywhere. Also I superglued the cords at the box penetration points to make it all nice and rugged.

This project is not too difficult for an amature but if you are having second thoughts then do a little more research or ask questions here.. I will be happy to help!










Could I use this exact design for my 400w HPS?
Or would I have to get a different relay?

Could you draw out a skematic of all the wiring including the box, the light, timer, and bulbs?
Its allittle confusing.
Thanks.
 
D

DB2004

Do not use those style of relays. They get too warm inside, they're sealed, and not rated for 5000 volt spikes. 1000 watt bulbs require 500V volt spike to ignite and the capacitor maintains a 500 to 600 volt for the bulb. They will short out, there is only one style of relay to use.

Best Regards

DB
 
G

Guest

Are you saying "ice cube relays" are not what you want to use?Or do it have it bassackwards.
 

BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
Sumo says:
I thought hps lights had a fire up stage when they first start. How does the ballast fire up the other set of lights unless it is turned off and back on?
After the "flip" the ballast can sense an unlit bulb and it engages the startup capacitor automaticaly.


Regarding so called "cube" relays: They will work for a while, then one day it sticks in one direction and your plants get 24 hour light in one room and 24 hour dark in another until you catch it. Do not use these type relays on anything bigger than 400 watt lights.

Use the heavy duty open frame relays for trouble free operation.
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

OK I agree with that,a definate purpose lighting contactor is the best thing,its just a fancy term for a relay.
 
Great tutorial, thank you everyone for adding so much good info.

I have a problem with how many flip flops are built. As you can see from this foto I borrowed from Kung Pow's post, the ballast is suppose to plug into this female outlet. That means that at some point you are going to need a male plug that can potentialy be hot. This is a very dangerious situation, as I can tell you from my experence. You always want the electricity to be in a female connector so you don't have charged prongs just waiting to give the shock of a lifetime to someone.

How many do it:
12202plug_in_view-thumb.JPG


How it should be done:
1971009.jpg


These puppies are pretty expensive, if you can to go on the cheap, use male adaptors on the end of a cord.

GWG
 
What we did to fix that problem is just cut all the OEM ballast cords and use heavy gauge extension cords with standard plugs.
We put the male ands @ the end of the socket cord and normal heavyduty outlets on the relay box.
 
Right, I know. But then, if the cord isn't pluged into the flip flop you've got a 600volt 10 amp tazer! Am I correct? This seems like a major electrical hazard to me. So I'm saying, put a female on the end of the ballast cord and a male on the flip flop.

Make sense?

Also, nice to see you sad247! I saw you quite a bit on OG, but not since then. Glad to see you're alive and free.

GWG
 
Last edited:

mrparanoid

New member
So I wired up one of these guys this weekend. The kung pow special that is. Unfortunately I only have 1 hps bulb, but will be getting another bulb to test with. I am running a sun system 1000 watt hps setup. I wired in the bulb to the relay, and when I turn the ballast on, the bulbs kicks on as normal. Then I flip to an empty outlet, and the bulb turns off as expected. Now when I flip back, the light doesnt kick on again. I have to turn the ballast off and back on for it to work. Any ideas why this isnt working? Is it because I don't have a 2nd bulb? This seems like it could in fact happen if one of the bulbs burns out. Any advice/help is appreciated.
 
How long are you waiting before you flip it back?
HID lights need time to cool down before they can be relit. It just takes too much energy to reignite the arc when the tube is still 6000 deg. Generaly it takes 15 to 20 minutes for the arc tube to cool down enough to be relit.

Answer you question?
 
Glad it worked out for you, and good luck with your new flipflop! Its a great way to keep a low profile, improve ballast life and safe money!

GWG
 

mrparanoid

New member
Will be hooking a power meter up to this guy soon, interested in seeing what, if any, spike there is. Mainly wondering if it would be a a big deal to flip/flop 4000 watts. Will post my findings in the coming days hopefully.
 

reaperz

Member
i still dont understand the start up phase and where that went. dont each bulb need to be warmed up in order to be used.

basically does a flipflop still create a power spike needed to warm up the bulb each time they are used? eg 2 power spikes every 24 hours _________-________-________-________-???

smooth power draw :joint: , lets you mind rest at night lol
 
Last edited:

Ono Nadagin

Active member
GWG... that recessed recepticle you posted a pic of... couldnt you do it with the type for PC and elctronics like this one... it would make it easy to make the power cords for the light also since the cords are premade
 
G

Guest

So did anyone ever find out if you can run one of these with Digital Ballasts? I would love to build one of these right now while I am still working at a company that entitles me to massive discounts on electronics and supplies. I have a 600W Digital HPS and will be moving into a bigger space in the next year or so hopefully and would love to be able to run 2 cabinets off my one ballast. LMK what you guys have found out, thanks!
 

reaperz

Member
reaperz said:
i still dont understand the start up phase and where that went. dont each bulb need to be warmed up in order to be used.

basically does a flipflop still create a power spike needed to warm up the bulb each time they are used? eg 2 power spikes every 24 hours _________-________-________-________-???

smooth power draw :joint: , lets you mind rest at night lol
anyone???
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top