mattkilla420
Member
Heres a few shots of what i was asking about. I dont think its nute burn thats why i was concerned i have yet too see this in my few months of growing..
If Joe or anybody could assist that would be very brotherly.
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Joe's Fresh Guide to Sick Plant Diagnosis
- Thread starter joe fresh
- Start date
Heres a few shots of what i was asking about. I dont think its nute burn thats why i was concerned i have yet too see this in my few months of growing..
If Joe or anybody could assist that would be very brotherly.
^^^thats either nute burn or not enough nutes...i grow in soil/soiless mixes, and what i would do is check ph and ec runoff and see where you are with those compared to the water you are pouring in. from there we can get a better diagnosis.
because in all reality it does look like nute burn, but could also be lockout depending where your numbers are...but my money is on nute burn
because in all reality it does look like nute burn, but could also be lockout depending where your numbers are...but my money is on nute burn
's... what I would bet on also, when everything looks healthy but there is burn on the leaves... usually an overdose of nutes
can't really tell from the pics but from ¥our description, it sounds like P deficiency... the dark spots get crispy and break?
Phosphorous Deficiency
As a rule, phosphorus deficiency symptoms are not very distinct and thus difficult to identify. A major visual symptom is that the plants are dwarfed or stunted. Phosphorus deficient plants develop very slowly in relation to other plants growing under similar environmental conditions but without phosphorus deficiency. Phosphorus deficient plants are often mistaken for unstressed but much younger plants. Some species such as tomato, lettuce, corn and the brassicas develop a distinct purpling of the stem, petiole and the under sides of the leaves. Under severe deficiency conditions there is also a tendency for leaves to develop a blue-gray luster. In older leaves under very severe deficiency conditions a brown netted veining of the leaves may develop.
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
No the dark spots don't get crispy. I think this is a fungi infection not deficiency.
The black mold eventually covers the whole leaf. Then spread to steam to next leaf...
After time infected leaf become yellow without deformation.
This leaf was scanned 1 week before I apply 0,5 %(1 teaspoon to 1liter) mixture of backing soda and water.
This is an outdoor plant.
The black mold eventually covers the whole leaf. Then spread to steam to next leaf...
After time infected leaf become yellow without deformation.
This leaf was scanned 1 week before I apply 0,5 %(1 teaspoon to 1liter) mixture of backing soda and water.
This is an outdoor plant.
S
SeaMaiden
First, I'm going to strongly suggest you not upload pictures to a site like imageshack. It actually got a pop-up on me that froze up my browser, and I'm running Ubuntu Linux, can't imagine what it might be like for someone running Windows.
Second, at first I thought black spot disease (Septoria spp of fungus). It doesn't look like that to me, but I do see those black spots. I'm going to suggest you begin treating with H2O2, see if you can kill the fruiting bodies.
Third, if you can at all, try to incorporate plant extracts into your nutrient regimen as foliar applications. Along with feeding the plants (yours are showing N+ along with P- based on the very dark green coloration of the leaves along with very reddened petioles) they go a long way toward helping prevent disease and pest. Overall plant health goes a long way toward preventing disease and pests, but that's always a work in progress, isn't it?
Fourth, if H2O2 solutions don't work, I would suggest moving toward a cupric solution. It's what I used to eradicate the black spot on some gifted clones a few years ago that came from California's central valley, and lemme tell ya, the case of black spot they came with was difficult to eradicate. Had to use the highest application rate to get it done.
Fifth, have you tried using Google Scholar to search on just the symptoms? It's how I've resolved most, if not all of my problems.
mattkilla420
Member
Thanks for the help guys. After few days I've decided it was jute burn. funny thing was that was only part of the plant that looked like that. I so i was thinking immobile deficiency. thanks for clearing things up. My partner called me freaking out( which is better than letting it go unattended). We cut nutes back a little bit and things are fine. Think we are about to start flushing what do u guys use to judge when u need to start. this is an unknown strain so i have no idea when it's done . I got it out of a bag of snowcap and from pictures I've seen its pretty close matching. So I'm calling it snowcap. What do u guys look at, to know when to flush. If u don't mind me asking on here that is, Joe.
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for help everybody. This baking soda mix is working but not completely 
The mold is decreasing but i don't think soda will stop it.
Is h202 solution or cupric solution dangerous to health ?
My plants are already 2nd week in flowering. Do you have any bio solution, without damaging the buds. This is not commercial grow so I don't want any heavy residue.
I heard that garlic also help, do you have any good recipe for mixture ?
The mold is decreasing but i don't think soda will stop it. Is h202 solution or cupric solution dangerous to health ?
My plants are already 2nd week in flowering. Do you have any bio solution, without damaging the buds. This is not commercial grow so I don't want any heavy residue.
I heard that garlic also help, do you have any good recipe for mixture ?
SunSimulator
Member
Hey Joe great thread ... How u been.. great to see ya !
FarmerGreen
Member
WTFuck is going on here?
WTFuck is going on here?
So I was pretty determined not to have to post here, but they have finally gotten the better of me and I am admitting defeat.
What is it? Magnesium, iron? I can't for the life of me figure it out.
They are about 2 months old, growing under 250W HPS. The crazy thing is I have two different soil mixes going on. One is straight out of the bag from the grow shop, something called terrazilla, supposed to be the best available round here. The other is approx 33% Coco, 33% worm castings 33% perlite. I thought I would be growing some monsters.
Almost immediately after transplanting (from seed) they went real pale, more even than the pic suggests, and slowed right down. I perservered for a while thing they were getting used to the light and backed off my watering because I was worried I may have over watered.
When I got sick of waiting I introduced worm casting tea to my water. Little change.
Then after a solid dry out I went with a half strength mix of all purpose plant food- MiracleGrow maxfeed
They showed a little bit of improvement so I upped the dosage.
They are definitely better than they ever were, but still very yellow and very slow. But it is not even, some parts of the plants are much greener and bigger than others. Can bad bulbs affect things at all?
The PH has a tendancy to be high, but I feel like I am on top of that and am keeping it for the most part around 6.5
I'm pretty much writing off this grow and flipping to flower so I can just finish, it is really dragging on now.
Temps hover between 60 and 75, humidity depending on the day is about 55%
(also how do I make my pics come up as pics and not attachments? Uploader wont let me)
WTFuck is going on here?
So I was pretty determined not to have to post here, but they have finally gotten the better of me and I am admitting defeat.
What is it? Magnesium, iron? I can't for the life of me figure it out.
They are about 2 months old, growing under 250W HPS. The crazy thing is I have two different soil mixes going on. One is straight out of the bag from the grow shop, something called terrazilla, supposed to be the best available round here. The other is approx 33% Coco, 33% worm castings 33% perlite. I thought I would be growing some monsters.
Almost immediately after transplanting (from seed) they went real pale, more even than the pic suggests, and slowed right down. I perservered for a while thing they were getting used to the light and backed off my watering because I was worried I may have over watered.
When I got sick of waiting I introduced worm casting tea to my water. Little change.
Then after a solid dry out I went with a half strength mix of all purpose plant food- MiracleGrow maxfeed
They showed a little bit of improvement so I upped the dosage.
They are definitely better than they ever were, but still very yellow and very slow. But it is not even, some parts of the plants are much greener and bigger than others. Can bad bulbs affect things at all?
The PH has a tendancy to be high, but I feel like I am on top of that and am keeping it for the most part around 6.5
I'm pretty much writing off this grow and flipping to flower so I can just finish, it is really dragging on now.
Temps hover between 60 and 75, humidity depending on the day is about 55%
(also how do I make my pics come up as pics and not attachments? Uploader wont let me)
Attachments
well, looking at what i see, it looks to be a mix of ph imbalance and root rot...or maybe one or the other or both...
the wilting i see is very commmon with root rot/pythium, and all the diff defs i see leads me to think ph imbalance. that said, and along with what you said, i think you did over water and caused some root rot, and also water logged soil will swing ph especially in colder weather(under 25C).
i would check the roots and see what they look like...im sure your problem starts here
