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Is this how new growth is supposed to look?
- Thread starter kronik
- Start date
Jayoharejee
New member
i vegged for one month and mine was about half that size so id say it looks fine to me.
It's been mentioned here somewhere that the curling new growth could be attributed to a root bound plant. I can't really tell how big your pot is, but that plant makes it look tiny. Might be a place to start.
Good luck.
Good luck.
B
bighogg
it kinda looks like you might be burning the top. how close are you hanging the light? what kind of light?
Sativa Soul
Member
I experience this curling too if I keep my plants too long in small pots. So I think it has to do with being root bound.
Amber Trich
Active member
This plant does look root bound but I don't think that's what causing the top to look like that.
"Big ridges between veins along with curled leaf fringes [down] signify temperature stress coupled with salt build up." -Jorge Cervantes, Marijuana Horticulture Indoor/Outdoor Medical Growers Bible
The tip looks like it is physically crispy and would crumble in your hand.
Could you have over fed? How close was the plant to the light and what was the canapy temp?
I think you should cut the top as indicated:
The bottom of the plant looks nice and lush. You'll do fine with out that messy top.
I'd give it some nice clean water. Quality of water can be a real issue with ph and salt build up.
A transplant will help too, I'd do it the day after cutting the top or the other way around, just to not stress it out too much.
Moving the light up was also a very good suggestion and I'd put a thermometer right at canapy level to make sure you dont go above 85 again.
Good luck!
"Big ridges between veins along with curled leaf fringes [down] signify temperature stress coupled with salt build up." -Jorge Cervantes, Marijuana Horticulture Indoor/Outdoor Medical Growers Bible
The tip looks like it is physically crispy and would crumble in your hand.
Could you have over fed? How close was the plant to the light and what was the canapy temp?
I think you should cut the top as indicated:
The bottom of the plant looks nice and lush. You'll do fine with out that messy top.
I'd give it some nice clean water. Quality of water can be a real issue with ph and salt build up.
A transplant will help too, I'd do it the day after cutting the top or the other way around, just to not stress it out too much.
Moving the light up was also a very good suggestion and I'd put a thermometer right at canapy level to make sure you dont go above 85 again.
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips guys....
I don't she she's rootbound as originally I had her in a 4x4x4 rockwool cube before placing her in that pot... the roots weren't even sticking out of the cube yet.
After the transplant, she took off like mad....
I was planning on transplanting before going 12/12.
As for the light, I am using an air-cooled 400w CMH bulb so I can get pretty close - 4-6" - my hand feels fine underneath... plenty of ventilation. Temps in the room range between 75-82f.
Could have something to do with overfertlizing... I was having a heck of a time with the rockwool, hence the transplant to soil (the moonshine mix - no ferts, just water... everything is in the soil).
If I don't do anything and just leave the plant, could I kill her?
Thanks!
kronik
I don't she she's rootbound as originally I had her in a 4x4x4 rockwool cube before placing her in that pot... the roots weren't even sticking out of the cube yet.
After the transplant, she took off like mad....
I was planning on transplanting before going 12/12.
As for the light, I am using an air-cooled 400w CMH bulb so I can get pretty close - 4-6" - my hand feels fine underneath... plenty of ventilation. Temps in the room range between 75-82f.
Could have something to do with overfertlizing... I was having a heck of a time with the rockwool, hence the transplant to soil (the moonshine mix - no ferts, just water... everything is in the soil).
If I don't do anything and just leave the plant, could I kill her?
Thanks!
kronik
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Amber Trich - I would LOVE to top as I have other plants in the same room that are much shorter....
but is it not too late to top? She's been vegging for almost 2 months...
Also, I thought topping was always done right above the last node... if I top where you indicate, that would be a couple of nodes down...
Thanks,
kronik
but is it not too late to top? She's been vegging for almost 2 months...
Also, I thought topping was always done right above the last node... if I top where you indicate, that would be a couple of nodes down...
Thanks,
kronik
Amber Trich
Active member
I think it's safe to prune/top anytime during veg. I've never had or heard of problems from this. I continue lightly pruning until the second week of flowering(though usually from the bottom).
It is nice to top right above a node, but it can be any node you want. I've never had bad luck cutting multiple nodes from the same branch.
If it were me, I'd cut that whole tip off right away. Especially since the other plants are shorter.
If you leave it as is, I doubt the plant will die. It will, however, have to grow out of that burn, and that could get crazy. IMO It will be easier and more productive for the plant to not have to figure that out.
Again, I think you should get a high/low thermometer right under the light at canapy level, just to be absoluetly sure. 78-82 degrees is quite nice, but 4-6" sounds very close, so I would want to know my exact canapy temp range.
Keep a close eye and keep loving those plants, you'll get a good feel for what to do.
It is nice to top right above a node, but it can be any node you want. I've never had bad luck cutting multiple nodes from the same branch.
If it were me, I'd cut that whole tip off right away. Especially since the other plants are shorter.
If you leave it as is, I doubt the plant will die. It will, however, have to grow out of that burn, and that could get crazy. IMO It will be easier and more productive for the plant to not have to figure that out.
Again, I think you should get a high/low thermometer right under the light at canapy level, just to be absoluetly sure. 78-82 degrees is quite nice, but 4-6" sounds very close, so I would want to know my exact canapy temp range.
Keep a close eye and keep loving those plants, you'll get a good feel for what to do.
B
bighogg
yes you can get that close, but you are STILL going to burn the top. so either move up the light and go flower or cut the top and turn to flower 10-14 days later.
BTW your plant looks GREAT! quit fretting. if you don't believe me that's fine cause you're just going to burn the top of the plant. i mean you will lose a healthier top cola but the rest of the plant will grow fine. if you think you have over fertilized and the blown the pH, then flush with water.
from my experience and cruising these boards, most people are doing basic things incorrectly.
1. over watering -- creating a lack of oxygen, which both promotes pathogens and suffocates the plant.
2. over illuminating with HID's no need to get carried away!! trust me.
3. under illuminating with CFL's you can practically put the bulb on the leaf
4. over fertilizing -- thus blowing the pH and causing nutrient lockout
5. poor environmental conditions. air movement, air quality, temperature and humidity.
if you focus entirely on those things (plus pathogen prevention and/or control), you will do better than most.
PH imbalance (twisty leaves) causing Molybdenum deficiency (reddish pink patches)
A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient.
Sorry to disagree bighogg, but that plant does not look great. It looks sick and will get worse. You are right about the light burn. It's not the thermal heat that is the problem, it is the radiant light energy that overheats the leaf internally, from the light source being too strong, like when you can feel the heat of the sun through a closed glass window.
Back your light off. You are not getting added benefit from it being too close and are actually harming the plant. Too much of a good thing.
Someone mentioned rootbound and this is one reason why your ph could be out. The more rootbound your pot, the higher the ph goes. This is how I can tell a plant is getting close to needing a transplant.
A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient.
Sorry to disagree bighogg, but that plant does not look great. It looks sick and will get worse. You are right about the light burn. It's not the thermal heat that is the problem, it is the radiant light energy that overheats the leaf internally, from the light source being too strong, like when you can feel the heat of the sun through a closed glass window.
Back your light off. You are not getting added benefit from it being too close and are actually harming the plant. Too much of a good thing.
Someone mentioned rootbound and this is one reason why your ph could be out. The more rootbound your pot, the higher the ph goes. This is how I can tell a plant is getting close to needing a transplant.
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Thank you all for the excellent replies!! I have learned a lot in this thread, based on which I am going to do the following:
1) Top based on the line Amber Trich suggested.
2) Move the light up to about 10 in from the top and hang a thermostat via twine so that I know the exact top canopy temp.... keep lowering the light until the maximum allowable temp (I'm going with 82f) is exceeded.
3) Begin LSTing the plant to keep the height down.
4) Transplant to a bigger pot before going 12/12.
Again, thanks a lot for helpie this newbie out!!
Peace,
kronik
1) Top based on the line Amber Trich suggested.
2) Move the light up to about 10 in from the top and hang a thermostat via twine so that I know the exact top canopy temp.... keep lowering the light until the maximum allowable temp (I'm going with 82f) is exceeded.
3) Begin LSTing the plant to keep the height down.
4) Transplant to a bigger pot before going 12/12.
Again, thanks a lot for helpie this newbie out!!
Peace,
kronik
This place is like Harvard for potheads. You'll learn a shitload more - just keep reading.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
Don't top it, you will arrest the growth. No reason to top it.
If you don't check and correct your ph you won't fix this problem.
You must observe your plants when lowering the light. Just because the temp says 82 doesn't mean that the plant can withstand the radiant light energy. They could still burn, even if it feels cool to the touch. Think heat from the sun on your arm, when you are in a car behind glass.
If the leaves and tops start curling upwards, it is too hot and/or light is too intense.
If you don't check and correct your ph you won't fix this problem.
You must observe your plants when lowering the light. Just because the temp says 82 doesn't mean that the plant can withstand the radiant light energy. They could still burn, even if it feels cool to the touch. Think heat from the sun on your arm, when you are in a car behind glass.
If the leaves and tops start curling upwards, it is too hot and/or light is too intense.
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Amber Trich
Active member
I think topping will redirect growth not arrest it. People grow high yeilding bushes every day.
Why not top it???
I'ts still in veg and all the other plants are shorter...
Heady Pete: What your saying seems very valid and most of your posts are informative. But how would topping arrest growth?
Why not top it???
I'ts still in veg and all the other plants are shorter...
Heady Pete: What your saying seems very valid and most of your posts are informative. But how would topping arrest growth?
Topping it won't solve the problem, and IMVHO it's not a great idea to do pruning work on a sick plant. Get it healthy first before exposing it to any stressors. You need to find out WHY it has the Mo def. I'm leaning towards lockout myself.
Let's look at possible causes:
-Your plant is cramped in the small pot and soil chemistry is outta wack as a result
-Your plant has been sitting in the same soil for too long and its properties have changed, but your watering/feeding approach has not
-The buffer in the soil is used up and your pH has dropped
-There is an excess of one or more other fertilizer components in your soil
-The soil is too wet and the roots are not oxygenated enough
-The pot is sitting on a cold concrete floor (is it?) and micronutrient uptake is not efficient as a result
Let's then look at possible solutions:
-Put the plant in a larger pot of fresh soil, after first going through a correct flush process on that one and letting it dry out again
-Adjust your fert solution to balance observed changes in the runoff pH
-Flush out salt buildups with ~9 gallons of water set to a pH that will balance the runoff and bring the soil back in range, and then water with a half strength COMPLETE fert with micros, and even give a foliar application of a Micro supplement (I like the GH Micro at ~5mL per quart for a foliar stopgap measure).
-Make sure the next pot has more drain holes than you think you need, including some on the sides, and relatively large, like a half inch diameter.
-Prop pots up off cold surfaces for better temp control in the root zone and better drainage. This also controls fungus gnats, btw- it deprives them of their breeding area which is the wet nasty muck sitting under pots.
Let's look at possible causes:
-Your plant is cramped in the small pot and soil chemistry is outta wack as a result
-Your plant has been sitting in the same soil for too long and its properties have changed, but your watering/feeding approach has not
-The buffer in the soil is used up and your pH has dropped
-There is an excess of one or more other fertilizer components in your soil
-The soil is too wet and the roots are not oxygenated enough
-The pot is sitting on a cold concrete floor (is it?) and micronutrient uptake is not efficient as a result
Let's then look at possible solutions:
-Put the plant in a larger pot of fresh soil, after first going through a correct flush process on that one and letting it dry out again
-Adjust your fert solution to balance observed changes in the runoff pH
-Flush out salt buildups with ~9 gallons of water set to a pH that will balance the runoff and bring the soil back in range, and then water with a half strength COMPLETE fert with micros, and even give a foliar application of a Micro supplement (I like the GH Micro at ~5mL per quart for a foliar stopgap measure).
-Make sure the next pot has more drain holes than you think you need, including some on the sides, and relatively large, like a half inch diameter.
-Prop pots up off cold surfaces for better temp control in the root zone and better drainage. This also controls fungus gnats, btw- it deprives them of their breeding area which is the wet nasty muck sitting under pots.
image reaper
Member
stinkyattic said:
pay attention to StinkyAttic, she knows her stuff
reap, it says you have the last post on this thread, but I can't see it 
