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Is there any chance of Harvesting a pure 20-24 week Sativa at 45 degree?
- Thread starter romanoweed
- Start date
romanoweed
Well-known member
compare to trip weed .. . cause it doesent need to be 20 to 24 weekers, but it need to be 100 procent on par with trip weed.
this thread is rather about 20 week sativa at 45 degree
this thread is rather about 20 week sativa at 45 degree
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gorilla ganja
Well-known member
Mid. September +20 weeks takes you till about the mid. February.
If you can go that long without a killing frost, you have a chance.
Maybe on the coast near the ocean, but even there probably a slim chance.
I agree with other's try and tame a 16 or less weeker before you try something so extreme.
Peace GG
If you can go that long without a killing frost, you have a chance.
Maybe on the coast near the ocean, but even there probably a slim chance.
I agree with other's try and tame a 16 or less weeker before you try something so extreme.
Peace GG
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
If you want speedy weed outdoor at 45º, have you tried veging the biggest Trainwreck clone you can manage and then harvesting it at like 6-7 weeks? That might be an easier way to get what you want if what you're looking for is tons of young, clear trichomes. Have you considered the possibility of growing psychedelic mushrooms? That might be an even better way (making your own LSD is notoriously difficult, but doing so is also clearly not outside the realm of possibility).
I don't understand the meaning of the competition you are on, but for a competition you need to have a lot of acknowledgment and clear ideas.
Have you ever smoked trip weed? Was it a 24 weeks sativa? Start answering that. Otherwise I forecast disappointment and failure.
Such sativas aren't made for a place at 45º latitude. If you are lucky you'll get lawn, and even if you are able to perform a forced flowering (or another method) and you don't get lawn, you aren't getting what you wanted.
Good luck with that.
troutman
Seed Whore
2 years ago I tried a Haze hybrid I made that goes 18-20 weeks with a few plants outdoors at 46N
as a test. One plant became a male and the others which I suspect were females never sexed out
at all. Like I said before, a light deprivation greenhouse is your best bet.
Even if you flowered a pure Sativa plant indoors and transplanted it outside it would
reveg under the natural photoperiod you're planning to use and yield nothing major.
Think about it. If it was possible why would people be playing with Autos and short flowering plants?
Who wouldn't want a field of pure Sativas?
as a test. One plant became a male and the others which I suspect were females never sexed out
at all. Like I said before, a light deprivation greenhouse is your best bet.
Even if you flowered a pure Sativa plant indoors and transplanted it outside it would
reveg under the natural photoperiod you're planning to use and yield nothing major.
Think about it. If it was possible why would people be playing with Autos and short flowering plants?
Who wouldn't want a field of pure Sativas?
romanoweed
Well-known member
A Light deprivation thingy would be much better to do in early spring. (around March). I wouldnt have to cut my Summerevening into 2 pieces(longhotsummernight s). The Method wich Mr young stated would be much mor handable then, when nights are long enough to bring SE asians into flower. So deprivation wouldnt make sense wouldnt it?
First time i heard this, i actually didnt get the meaning of this idea... The idea is to flower your Plants shifted to the earlir.! About 6 months earlier! in March--northern Hemisphere--
And there are two things to consider then:
1:Your plants would get more Sunlight while flowerng, and actually if you pre-Summer-shifted-to-the-earlyflower , wich i dont know how long i have to perform to permanently let them stay flowering, but maybe 1,5 months, then i would actually give more lightintensity, yet even warmth to my plants.
2: like pinkus stated, pure equatorial sativas naturally given dont go into flower close to 12 hours daylight only, wich is in north: at 45 degree or else? 22.03. Then it is 12 hours light... everywhere north every degree. Everything before this date is under 12 hours light. So my question is how long i have to let plants be under this date to make them flower, if even possible. Cause i heard some PURE realy pure tropical plants derivering from at exact 0 Degre latitude naturally given dont react to sunlight and are simply autoflowering, or just react very little to it.
I would like to hear if thats all true, if anyone has seen something like this done, cause it seems far the most easy task to get:
More intense Sunlight at flowering stage, and natural one, wich i heard pure sativa dislike when indoor lights are very unnatural in spectrum, but not shure. Probably Lights are intense enough? and the only time you need a solution against couldness is before the 22 march, for an unknown time , and probably they need an extra indoor lightsource cause this actually imitates days from 22. 06 to 22. 09 ... the time after Mid-Summer to Mid-autum ,in asia or whatever continent! wich is extreamly hot i guess and sunny bright (bright meaning intensitywise(from Mid-summer, not duration wise bright(to mid-autumn)) ! Probaly the brightness should be imitated in this period too.
First time i heard this, i actually didnt get the meaning of this idea... The idea is to flower your Plants shifted to the earlir.! About 6 months earlier! in March--northern Hemisphere--
And there are two things to consider then:
1:Your plants would get more Sunlight while flowerng, and actually if you pre-Summer-shifted-to-the-earlyflower , wich i dont know how long i have to perform to permanently let them stay flowering, but maybe 1,5 months, then i would actually give more lightintensity, yet even warmth to my plants.
2: like pinkus stated, pure equatorial sativas naturally given dont go into flower close to 12 hours daylight only, wich is in north: at 45 degree or else? 22.03. Then it is 12 hours light... everywhere north every degree. Everything before this date is under 12 hours light. So my question is how long i have to let plants be under this date to make them flower, if even possible. Cause i heard some PURE realy pure tropical plants derivering from at exact 0 Degre latitude naturally given dont react to sunlight and are simply autoflowering, or just react very little to it.
I would like to hear if thats all true, if anyone has seen something like this done, cause it seems far the most easy task to get:
More intense Sunlight at flowering stage, and natural one, wich i heard pure sativa dislike when indoor lights are very unnatural in spectrum, but not shure. Probably Lights are intense enough? and the only time you need a solution against couldness is before the 22 march, for an unknown time , and probably they need an extra indoor lightsource cause this actually imitates days from 22. 06 to 22. 09 ... the time after Mid-Summer to Mid-autum ,in asia or whatever continent! wich is extreamly hot i guess and sunny bright (bright meaning intensitywise(from Mid-summer, not duration wise bright(to mid-autumn)) ! Probaly the brightness should be imitated in this period too.
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Let's be real tree,,, Sativa type autoflowers are a reality... and a great option for northern growers...amazing product really grown in the north flowering under 16 hours of intense summer sun.... really some of the best bud I ever had,,,I timed a container plant to finish out June 20- July 20.for most intense summer sun.,,,it was a SSH auto..... Amazing Pot came of it that would satisfy any weed snob.
You need to get practical experience growing cannabis before you talk about 20 week flowering times at 45 degrees N. First get strains that will finish at your latitude, preferably late September but you can probably manage into mid October. There are banana belts in Eastern Europe along the Danube, as Koondense mentions yoss33 has grown some beautiful Zamaldelica but that's the exception not the rule, the guy has tons of experience which is key. And Zamaldelica is 'only' 14 weeks, 20 weeks you're into January and you'll be smoking grey mold.
Because of a seed screw up I ended up with a tropical narrow leaf variety, I'm around 45 degrees N. It didn't begin flowering until the end of September, unlike the temperate adapted strains I normally grow which are almost done at that time. I got lucky, no hard frosts but contstant clouds and rain. It flowered about 15 weeks, harvested around Christmas time. Mini, mini, scruffle buds. Certainly not 'trip weed'. Here's a couple pics.
You can see the weather damage, there's mature resin but it's been degraded by moisture, wind, and rain. It has a sweet fruity smell along with a grassy, hay, shake, type smell. No way it goes another 5 weeks to make 20 weeks flowering. I'll write up a smoke report when I try it, still curing it's too harsh at this point.
The biggest problem is not only is there low light intensity, the days are much too short. By the winter solstice the sun is up for 9 hours. It's so low in the sky it's blocked for most of the day by the landscape. And the weather is cloudy, foggy, overcast most of the time. Even though the plant had incredible resistance to boytritis it still had quite a bit of mold and the stem was rotting.
This has been reported over and over, many people have tried and failed growing equatorial strains in the north for longer then you've been alive. I feel like I did the best anyone could possibly do. The reason Thai and other equatorial strains have the reputation they do, as magical amazing trippy cannabis, the equatorial sun does something special. It's very rare to see someone grow them properly indoors either, the indoor lighting lacks the intensity they need.
There's a lot of tropical strain fans around here and there's always lots of positive feedback and congratulations when someone finishes a 20 week flowering plant inside. Deservedly so, it's hard as hell. But if you look closely at the pictures you see the plant is a shadow of true self, sick and dying, squirting out it's last few calyxes and hairs. It's a treat to the cultivator and appreciated by the connoisseur but it ain't much.
Then you look at the few tropical growers, usually in Queensland or Africa or a tropical island, and you see huge beasts with giant colas. THAT's how you get trip weed, not struggling to nurse a dying plant to squeeze out a bit of resin before it expires. There are exceptions but they're almost always master growers with years of experience who put in the time and dedication needed. They've mastered growing cannabis and are looking for a challenge, usually with a long breeding program.
You'll have much better luck working with nature, starting with strains adapted to your climate. Then spend a few years breeding, preferably indoors and out, crossing the strains with highs you like with the quicker flowering ones. And you'll be surprised, when you grow your own cannabis it's usually 'trip weed', you don't have to flower a plant for 20 weeks to get strong psychoactive effects. I do just fine with my hybrids, it makes a big difference having fresh live material as opposed to someone else's commercial stomped on, passed around stuff. But then I've spent years collecting seeds, growing stuff out, experimenting and getting better and better. And I know I still have a long way to go..
Because of a seed screw up I ended up with a tropical narrow leaf variety, I'm around 45 degrees N. It didn't begin flowering until the end of September, unlike the temperate adapted strains I normally grow which are almost done at that time. I got lucky, no hard frosts but contstant clouds and rain. It flowered about 15 weeks, harvested around Christmas time. Mini, mini, scruffle buds. Certainly not 'trip weed'. Here's a couple pics.
You can see the weather damage, there's mature resin but it's been degraded by moisture, wind, and rain. It has a sweet fruity smell along with a grassy, hay, shake, type smell. No way it goes another 5 weeks to make 20 weeks flowering. I'll write up a smoke report when I try it, still curing it's too harsh at this point.
The biggest problem is not only is there low light intensity, the days are much too short. By the winter solstice the sun is up for 9 hours. It's so low in the sky it's blocked for most of the day by the landscape. And the weather is cloudy, foggy, overcast most of the time. Even though the plant had incredible resistance to boytritis it still had quite a bit of mold and the stem was rotting.
This has been reported over and over, many people have tried and failed growing equatorial strains in the north for longer then you've been alive. I feel like I did the best anyone could possibly do. The reason Thai and other equatorial strains have the reputation they do, as magical amazing trippy cannabis, the equatorial sun does something special. It's very rare to see someone grow them properly indoors either, the indoor lighting lacks the intensity they need.
There's a lot of tropical strain fans around here and there's always lots of positive feedback and congratulations when someone finishes a 20 week flowering plant inside. Deservedly so, it's hard as hell. But if you look closely at the pictures you see the plant is a shadow of true self, sick and dying, squirting out it's last few calyxes and hairs. It's a treat to the cultivator and appreciated by the connoisseur but it ain't much.
Then you look at the few tropical growers, usually in Queensland or Africa or a tropical island, and you see huge beasts with giant colas. THAT's how you get trip weed, not struggling to nurse a dying plant to squeeze out a bit of resin before it expires. There are exceptions but they're almost always master growers with years of experience who put in the time and dedication needed. They've mastered growing cannabis and are looking for a challenge, usually with a long breeding program.
You'll have much better luck working with nature, starting with strains adapted to your climate. Then spend a few years breeding, preferably indoors and out, crossing the strains with highs you like with the quicker flowering ones. And you'll be surprised, when you grow your own cannabis it's usually 'trip weed', you don't have to flower a plant for 20 weeks to get strong psychoactive effects. I do just fine with my hybrids, it makes a big difference having fresh live material as opposed to someone else's commercial stomped on, passed around stuff. But then I've spent years collecting seeds, growing stuff out, experimenting and getting better and better. And I know I still have a long way to go..
In the trip weed thread thai bliss mentions nanan-bouclou as a great early sativa. Long flowering indoors but triggers early enough to finish in his location outdoors (southern oregon I think?).
I have not tried but it is on my list of strains I would like to attempt outside in michigan.
I have not tried but it is on my list of strains I would like to attempt outside in michigan.
romanoweed
Well-known member
at thereverend nice bush.. this looks good for my eye. And they look like, dont wanna claim, but very close to some seedsman mama thai, wich someone also mentioned.
This was not a 20-25 week sativa, but a 16 week Hz hybrid at 50 N from July till end of October.
romanoweed
Well-known member
flowering shifted 6 months towards spring to gain more sun intensity.. still the most lucrative. I read i can just use normal lamps very close to plants to actually veg them. will try maybe just veg them like that, they have just to grow up, go into flowering, and have full summerlight for flowering.
Something says me still even in summer our light is weaker than equatorial one.. Found a curious, but actually, yeah why not.. good idea:
they bundle light to make electricity... its like 1000000 degre celcius in the boudled spot. so its more intense sun ...right?
Something says me still even in summer our light is weaker than equatorial one.. Found a curious, but actually, yeah why not.. good idea:
romanoweed
Well-known member
voila
romanoweed
Well-known member
before:
after:
after:
romanoweed
Well-known member
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gorilla ganja
Well-known member
romanoweed- It's probably cheaper and easier to just buy some land near the equator and grow there. Really cheap for the most part, especially in the jungle away from a beach.
Peace GG
Peace GG
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Next time you see a rear projection TV in the garbage by the side of the road, grab it.
Inside, you'll find a Fresnel Lens
Build a frame for it
Avoid the focal point or...
Special note:
Home and office windows block most UVB rays, which your plants need.
Personally, I'd start flowering it indoors super early and finish it outdoor. Get the timing right.
Inside, you'll find a Fresnel Lens
Build a frame for it
Avoid the focal point or...
Special note:
Home and office windows block most UVB rays, which your plants need.
Personally, I'd start flowering it indoors super early and finish it outdoor. Get the timing right.
Dude, put up some lights or grow some vermontman seeds until you do.
