Is there any chance of Harvesting a pure 20-24 week Sativa at 45 degree?

[romanoweed]

Had another Idea, but unshure if works. One could cut a Plant in two basically, i mean to cut the Branches on the Shadow-side of the Plant completely, once they form. That way, you create a Plant wich recieves basically more Sun per Branch in average.


The Qusetion is now: will Branches Transport their Sun-energy to their Neighbour-branches..? If so, then it should work cause you heightend the average Sun-energy.
I ment you would heighten Sunintensity that way, not?

 

[TheDarkStorm]

Ther was one of the older heads on here that used to grow allsorts of tropical sativas in the uk in a glass conservatory extension on his house....probably heated in winter..plants going from 14-22 weeks...but the plants wer impressive an actually finished just using natural light

 

[romanoweed]

so they were Rocketfuel? smoked yourselve? Wich Strain exactly


I lately saw, ok ATTENTION normal Genetics, 8 Weekers, wich grew with just 2 Hours Sunlight, but they smelled and looked really really goood. Didnt smoke but apperance was quiet perfect

 

[Donald Mallard]

so they were Rocketfuel? smoked yourselve? Wich Strain exactly


I lately saw, ok ATTENTION normal Genetics, 8 Weekers, wich grew with just 2 Hours Sunlight, but they smelled and looked really really goood. Didnt smoke but apperance was quiet perfect

without the intense sun im doubting they would be comparable to one grown in its habitat ,
but still likely appreciated by folks who cant access the real deal id imagine , very novel and probably sought after given it would be quite rare ...

 

[romanoweed]

Hey again.

I had a funny Problem. I grew Vietblack, Hoabac , Cambodian99 last Year. I made seeds, and was happy they just finished in Time.

The seeds of them i grew again, cause i got to less, but this Year the whole 3 Strains are like 3 Weeks later.. and dont appear to finish..

I have only one Explonation: This summer was ultrabeautiful Weather around floweringtriggertime, and therefore took longer to trigger.

What are the known tricks to avoid belated triggering. I heard foliar Spraying different Nutes?

 

[TychoMonolyth]

Hey again.

I had a funny Problem. I grew Vietblack, Hoabac , Cambodian99 last Year. I made seeds, and was happy they just finished in Time.

The seeds of them i grew again, cause i got to less, but this Year the whole 3 Strains are like 3 Weeks later.. and dont appear to finish..

I have only one Explonation: This summer was ultrabeautiful Weather around floweringtriggertime, and therefore took longer to trigger.

What are the known tricks to avoid belated triggering. I heard foliar Spraying different Nutes?

Spraying heavy nutes just stress your plants which might be speeding it up. HOWEVER, you'll have that shit in your buds. I wouldn't do it.

I heard of an old timer trick where you split the stem (stem splitting) to speed finishing.

Apparently it is supposed to increase trichome production. I'm not very sure about that though. But I have to say, a plant of mine that split down the middle was further along than the rest (35 GG4 plants in the wild). Again I was in the middle of my harvest so I wasn't paying much attention or comparing buds.

I might try it on a few next season.

I've attached pictures I found to show you how to do it.

 

[romanoweed]

thanx for any anwser, i feel i might loose the WHOLE lowgenertion vietblack do to this problem, they are late, very late-

So, you bind the stem together above splitting, and below. Then split it between, and later open the above bindings and further split till you are at the top of the Mainstem, and literally split the Topbud till you are trough?

 

[art.spliff]

Low to the ground worked great for that plant. Removing branches that receive little light may help with mold.

 

[TychoMonolyth]

thanx for any anwser, i feel i might loose the WHOLE lowgenertion vietblack do to this problem, they are late, very late-

So, you bind the stem together above splitting, and below. Then split it between, and later open the above bindings and further split till you are at the top of the Mainstem, and literally split the Topbud till you are trough?

I had a Swazi I let go a long long time. Several hard frosts and a couple deep freezings. I harvested about this time of year. The fan leaves took a beating, but the buds were perfectly fine.

I even had a few plants get snowed on. Always, the fan leaves didn't do well, but the buds always survived it perfectly. Some were amazing.

GG4 bud in December. This one rodelized because of the stress. That's not a bad thing

Low to the ground worked great for that plant. Removing branches that receive little light may help with mold.

Absolutely. The days where you get a little frost in the morning, then warm sun to melt it, is a mold magnet.

 

[romanoweed]

Haa, you should seen my Plants. They looked just dead for last Month, brown grey, not even the mini-budleaves green, BUT the seeds finished. I know how to Seedrun at absolute limit.

I strongly suggest they just took longer to trigger. So, how do you force the trigger? I wouldnt mind fertilizer on my seeds, or does it hurt em (heavymetals?) ?

 

[Sunshineinabag]

Did anyone try such a crazy thing? I mean you would shure harvest a tiny bud, but would that turn out?
Any experiences at around 45 degre north.. middle europe?

I see 2 main Problems and one wich might be no problem:
1: Here it often only snows around end of december, so frost could kill plants, but i have hope cause i often heard that thais are extremly frost resistant. So maybe it would live until end of december if you lucky and it doesent earlier.
2. Light intensity: in their natural habitat sativas have high light intensity, and i multiple times heard in indoor growing you need stronger lamps as average. So this seems unsolvable.
3: no problem seems to be mold, cause in their habitat sativas have still higher humidity than here, so they are mostly humidity resistent.

So the biggest problem stays lightintensity.
But on the floweringtime side i just would consider harvesting very early, wich would make a little harvest, not tasting as good, but early harvest TO A CERTAIN DEGREE can eventually even intensivy some sativas trippyness.
Aswell there is a soulution of prevegging for about two months indoor to gain an earlier harvest. But i think i heard some lineges arent impressed by preflowering as much as others if i racall this right. But how much can you shorten harvet time? is there a limit? Cause otherwise this seems the easiest soulution for theharvest-time-problem. Easy seems to be that if i recall right , that in early vegetation you have a big variety of Lamps wich can be used. Aswell lighting cycles seem rather unimportant. I even heard plants dont need pure dark at night , but some said sativas can hermie if not dark at night.. so if that hasent effect on hermies, then you could even just install some lights in the corner of your bedroom.
And the expences for 2 months wouldnt be that great, so easy and quiet cheap.

So if anyone has any tipps how to grow a puure 20 to 24 week flowering sativa please tell. I dont care for Taste, just wanna know if someone managed to get some strong sativa at around 45 degree north? And i never heard someone talk closer about that topic elswhere, so i would have a clue after it.

Thanx

Gotta say maybe start em indoors in a nice veg environment.....then introduce like say 2_3 weeks after last frost?

 

[TychoMonolyth]

Haa, you should seen my Plants. They looked just dead for last Month, brown grey, not even the mini-budleaves green, BUT the seeds finished. I know how to Seedrun at absolute limit.

I strongly suggest they just took longer to trigger. So, how do you force the trigger? I wouldnt mind fertilizer on my seeds, or does it hurt em (heavymetals?) ?

Won't hurt the plant, but you should try to keep the poison out of your lungs. lol

 

[romanoweed]

yuhuu, FINALLLY I found old pure SE Asia lines. But im out of Ideas how to finish seeds. Those will take really 20 Weeks, not like THIS Vietblack

This Year i found out 2 Things: every Line seemed to finish later this Year (3 different Lines) . I already had some Feeling the unbelevable clear Blue Sky around August would prevent them sensing the shortened Daylengts. And that seemed exactly to happen. All Lines were like 3 Weeks later..

Secound Thing i found out: I planted one Line in pure Compost. Well, they could keep basically all Leaves till the last Day, without becoming brown. I read that especially Micronutrients are important to keep Plants healthy in extreme Conditions.
The Difference was extreeme between even a newly bought Soil-Spot. Probably its like Humans need propper Vitamin C otherwise getting a Cold.

Here this Pic was around 5th November, Vietblack:

They slightly curled leaves, but NOT bad. Resinproduction did also not compleetly stagnate this Year, So: Give them Plants a coompleete Feeding, not just Macronutrients! Seaweed is acording my Research cheap, and you may do it yourselve with any Lake/Riverweed?.. (wich grows in any Lake River)

This year like sayd the Vietblack spot kept its Leaves, and i had to harvest BECAUSE the Temperatures went below freezing, wich would killed the Seeds, while freezing/tawing multiple times . I found out the point where a portion of Cell-membranes would burst its minus 3 Celsius / or 26.5 Farenheit.
Watched Weatherreport, wich were pretty accurate (sometimes slightly off).
But the plant looked like they would been going otherwise.. But had to prevent Cellburst in Seeds, and harvested.

How much temperaturedifference can a Plastic-greenhouse make, if its clouded ? i think not that much..

Any ideas and observations are welcome

 

[romanoweed]

I would have to heighten Temperatures by 5 Degree/or 10 Farenheit and they may make it. Does a plastic Greenhouse doo that?

 

[chilliwilli]

Think every kind of cover will help keep temps a little higher. Wrap in cloth or plastic foil for the night. But keep mold in mind with cover.
Best option for growing sativas in the north would be a geothermal greenhouse but that would cost.
Some winefarms try to save their grapes from early frost by burning wet biomass to produce thick clouds of smoke. Don't think thats a usable options.

 

[romanoweed]

yes, im always low in money. i shurely need the cheaper solution.

The other Option is to lightdep, BUT i heard, if you stop early, before 23 September, Plants can percieve an Increase in Daylength. This baffles me a bit, since pure Sativa would gone into flower before that? And the sudden increase gives them wrong Impulse.. Mamamia. And you are therefore left with deprivating from 1st Juli till 23 September. Man..

Oh your Covering-Idea is good. Covering the Greenhose in Night. Im just thinking i could actually make a small isolaed DARK Room , and place them inside as soon as it gets below freezing, wich here is always rather at night. PERFECT IDEA MAN! I heared the someone managed to have a crowded Greenhouse without ventilation, just only at night, and plants did not die. And i could make it very crowded. During the day i place them outside. Also, i could place a small Heater inside, and cause it is a thick fat cover, it would be very effective. I read Propagane heating doese not need to be ventilated out.

yeah burning biomass would be dangerous to bee found i guess.. but i will look it up

 

[chilliwilli]

That sounds very nice. I actually meant to wrap the plant like you would do with a rose in winter. but your idea is better

 

[romanoweed]

But its not enough, if your daytemperatures below freezing.. Wich happens here in January.

I found some good Info. Basically many many People use bubble wrap. The bigger the bubbles the better the Isolation. Just average bubble Wrap. Big pricedifferneces at Stores. Also look for UV resistency for Longlivity, and deinstall it when not used, cause it can be dmaged from uv in 3 Years.


I heard someone saying it made 5 Celsius / 10Farenheit Difference in Winternight.
But searching for more reports.

The best thing i heard, you can use fat Candles to heat. One Person told each fat Candle would raise Temperature by 1 Celsius / 2Farenheit !

What i still didnt find out if People actually use no ventillation, i have read Winter-greenhouse Topics, but none mentiones Ventilators. They only open Doors sometimes cause mold.. Im bit confused?

Otherwise all sounded better than i thought, especially reported Temperaturedifference at night.

Lets geek out abit on Wintergreenhouses.

 

[romanoweed]

bubble wrap with extra big bubes

 

[chilliwilli]

I think there has to be some air exchange else plants will suffer but too much in winter will drop inside temps significant.
A compost pile in the gh could keep temps up and also provide extra co2(also the fat lamps)