MynameStitch said:
so they have all what they need? i don't have to worry? just a little flush?
k, thank you.
Can i take them into flower?
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is she sick?
- Thread starter gramsci.antonio
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so they have all what they need? i don't have to worry? just a little flush?
k, thank you.
Can i take them into flower?
I would not put them into flower right now, they are stressed and wait till they get better before sticking them into a different cycle, you don't want to put any more stress on them yet.
could this have been due to the use of blackstrap molasses?
B
British_Bulldog
Hi Antonio,
The biggest thing you can do to help your plants right now, is to trim off all the lower budsites, which are hidden under the canopy, will never get any decent light, and will hinder production of buds at the top.
If you trim them all off, the energy of the plant will be redirected to the bud sites at the top, which are in good light, and so you'll end up with massive heads, instead of small-medium heads, and loads of undeveloped popcorn underneath.
Once you've done that and seen how much of a difference it makes, you'll always do it in future!
Peace
The biggest thing you can do to help your plants right now, is to trim off all the lower budsites, which are hidden under the canopy, will never get any decent light, and will hinder production of buds at the top.
If you trim them all off, the energy of the plant will be redirected to the bud sites at the top, which are in good light, and so you'll end up with massive heads, instead of small-medium heads, and loads of undeveloped popcorn underneath.
Once you've done that and seen how much of a difference it makes, you'll always do it in future!
Peace
B
British_Bulldog
And regarding flowering them, you should trim off all the lower bud sites over the course of the next 2-3 days in stages - i.e. not all off at once, as it's too much stress, but in 3 goes.
Then you can put them in flower.
My advice on feeding is this, as I've done exactly the same grow as you before:
- feed 1/2 strength flower nutrients NOW, to those plants, to prepare them for the changeover to 12/12
- forget the blackstrap molasses unless you're really confident in using it, which it doesn't like like you are: I've done 40% perlite, 60% coco grows with Canna nutes and PK13/14 in the past, no Cannazym, trimmed off lower bud sites, fed moderately and according to plant needs, and have had fantastic results.
- keep the light as close to the tops as you can without burning or light bleaching. Some light bleaching is acceptable though with the bud sites right next to the light (when you're flowering with the 400W), as the loss in production from them will be outweighed by the increase in production from the rest of the budsites.....find the absolute maximum light penetration they can take.
- start feeding PK13/14 when the buds start growing, i.e. after the stretch at about week 2-3 of flower with DP Powerplant.
So:
Start of Week 2 Flowering, add 1/5 strength PK13/14, and adjust pH to 5.8
Start of Week 3 Flowering, add 1/4 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 4 Flowering, add 1/2 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 5 Flowering, add 3/4 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 6 Flowering, add full strength PK13/14 ----------"-----------
Start of Week 7 Flowering, feed plain water at pH 5.8
Start of Week 8 Flowering, feed plain water at pH 5.8
2 weeks flush is good for those nutes, and by the end of week 8 flower, it'll be finished, with huge, properly flushed, tasty buds.
Do all that m8, see the difference.....and prepare to be Amazed!!
Peace
Then you can put them in flower.
My advice on feeding is this, as I've done exactly the same grow as you before:
- feed 1/2 strength flower nutrients NOW, to those plants, to prepare them for the changeover to 12/12
- forget the blackstrap molasses unless you're really confident in using it, which it doesn't like like you are: I've done 40% perlite, 60% coco grows with Canna nutes and PK13/14 in the past, no Cannazym, trimmed off lower bud sites, fed moderately and according to plant needs, and have had fantastic results.
- keep the light as close to the tops as you can without burning or light bleaching. Some light bleaching is acceptable though with the bud sites right next to the light (when you're flowering with the 400W), as the loss in production from them will be outweighed by the increase in production from the rest of the budsites.....find the absolute maximum light penetration they can take.
- start feeding PK13/14 when the buds start growing, i.e. after the stretch at about week 2-3 of flower with DP Powerplant.
So:
Start of Week 2 Flowering, add 1/5 strength PK13/14, and adjust pH to 5.8
Start of Week 3 Flowering, add 1/4 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 4 Flowering, add 1/2 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 5 Flowering, add 3/4 strength PK13/14 ---------"-----------
Start of Week 6 Flowering, add full strength PK13/14 ----------"-----------
Start of Week 7 Flowering, feed plain water at pH 5.8
Start of Week 8 Flowering, feed plain water at pH 5.8
2 weeks flush is good for those nutes, and by the end of week 8 flower, it'll be finished, with huge, properly flushed, tasty buds.
Do all that m8, see the difference.....and prepare to be Amazed!!
Peace
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British_Bulldog said:
That's my booster regime with PBP. Put your money in bloom ferts, there's no magic bullets in veg. Of course I can skip the one step about the pH since I'm in a mix that does it for me. I'm not a slave to it.
feed 1/2 strength flower nutrients NOW, to those plants, to prepare them for the changeover to 12/12
You don't want to switch over to bloom ferts right away, you chance your plant in not having enough nitrogen to last out flowering. The plant does not change over to flowering right away, takes around a week to do so, so for the first week you always want to use a grow fert.
As for the molasses, this is not what caused your problem, your problem is you had lights too close and you are using too much nutrients to close together.
Molasses is a booster and I would not use it right now, save it for when your plants fully flower out.
NO bleaching should be acceptable, at this you are causing damage to the leaves and those leaves help make the plants food, you want as many leaves as possible on your plants. Not to mention if its doing damage to your leaves, it's going to damage bud sites as well.
You don't want to switch over to bloom ferts right away, you chance your plant in not having enough nitrogen to last out flowering. The plant does not change over to flowering right away, takes around a week to do so, so for the first week you always want to use a grow fert.
As for the molasses, this is not what caused your problem, your problem is you had lights too close and you are using too much nutrients to close together.
Molasses is a booster and I would not use it right now, save it for when your plants fully flower out.
NO bleaching should be acceptable, at this you are causing damage to the leaves and those leaves help make the plants food, you want as many leaves as possible on your plants. Not to mention if its doing damage to your leaves, it's going to damage bud sites as well.
Ok sorry for not floating around but i started studying german and with my trainings i've been really busy.
I switched to 12/12 the 14 febr, this is a photo of the 16th:
But i have some problem.
Ferting with:
5 liters of water (tap+ro)
17 ml of canna A+17 ml of Canna B
Some ph down ([email protected])
10 ml of cannaboost
Here's a lower leaf with some problems:
what should i do?
I switched to 12/12 the 14 febr, this is a photo of the 16th:
But i have some problem.
Ferting with:
5 liters of water (tap+ro)
17 ml of canna A+17 ml of Canna B
Some ph down ([email protected])
10 ml of cannaboost
Here's a lower leaf with some problems:
what should i do?
Very small nitrogen deficiency is what is being shown in the leaf, no cause for concern right now, do not mess with it.
