Is it worth battling spider mites to save genetics or nah?

[unnamedmike]

Abamectina + basf cascade if the plants are growing, permisilis + californicus if flowering. An aspirin per gallon of irrigation water usually helps restore vigor. (This lowers the pH, be careful) Wettable sulfur is a great tool too, and is a cannabis nutrient. A table spoon per gallon.

 

[revegeta666]

S

People like to think big when it comes to predators pouncing on their nemesis - however think small. Fungi, bacteria, sugar.

I like to ferment sprouted hempseeds/microgreens with raw sugar and water, and that deals with a lot of insect infestations. Once every 2 weeks for extra energy, and 3 x per week if there is an infest infestation to get rid of.

No offense to you but if you think you are going to erradicate a spidermite infestation like that you are sorely mistaken. If you have a few thrips or white flies then fine, but a spidermite infestation is a different level of pain in the ass.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

S

No offense to you but if you think you are going to erradicate a spidermite infestation like that you are sorely mistaken. If you have a few thrips or white flies then fine, but a spidermite infestation is a different level of pain in the ass.

Have you tried it? Mites aren't invincible. The near daily application of water alone is going to disrupt them and their webbing. And the powdery mildew that usually gets tracked by them.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

In veg, mites are stupid easy to eradicate. The key is to kill all unhatched eggs every 3 days till the breeding cycle has been interrupted. 5 applications, 3 days apart.

Personally, I have used isopropyl alcohol and water with a bit of soap to remove multiple infestations from other growers. Most claiming them to be 'resistant' mites needing extra nuking or switching up insecticides. None ever survived 1oz 70% or higher iso to a gallon of water and a bit of surfactant.

Destroys roots, so make sure to cover them when fully drenching your plants.

I get CHS symptoms from the aza in neem oil, like a lot of folks (though usually less severe reactions than I do lol). Aza stays in the plant over 60 days, so I strongly recommend against it. (Loudly against for 10+ years now)

 

[Rodehazrd]

A wise man once said "there's two kinds of growers those fighting mites and those in denial"
I spray with Green Cleaner a soy product it gets all it hits. I use it at least every 2 weeks bugs or not. After you see those dudes up close its easy to go OCD on them. It's good for PM too. I have gotten a phytotoxic reaction using neem but not yet with GC. A 1-16 vinegar solution for dipping rooted clones has been helpful too. Cover the pot with a kitchen bag to keep the soil in and dip all but the pot shake and repeat twice more, I dip 18" plants in a 6 gallon bucket before the stretch.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

3 kinds... those who have mastered their eradication.

 

[revegeta666]

Have you tried it? Mites aren't invincible. The near daily application of water alone is going to disrupt them and their webbing. And the powdery mildew that usually gets tracked by them.

No organic solution that I have tried has worked but predators. They aren't invincible but they are known for quickly adapting to pesticides. The third time they are sprayed with the same pesticide they won't care anymore. Let alone an organic one. At least that has been my experience.

Heavy use of pesticides in agriculture has made spidermites resistant to almost everything but abamectine which is not sold freely in my country anymore, but for agricultural use.

I assume most here are American so it could be that spidermites are worse where I live in western Europe. Because most local growers I know have had a similar experience.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I have personally witnessed mite free plants among mite infested plants. The difference was plant health.

No mite (ok, I have never battled russets) is resistant to isopropyl alcohol and water. The eggs and webs dissolve while the mites absorb the iso and die, there is no resistance which can develop.

Oh yeah, should go without saying but... make sure to locate and remove the original source of infection or you will also start thinking about 'resistant' mites. lolol

Anyone tried this on russets yet?

 

[revegeta666]

I have personally witnessed mite free plants among mite infested plants. The difference was plant health.

No mite (ok, I have never battled russets) is resistant to isopropyl alcohol and water. The eggs and webs dissolve while the mites absorb the iso and die, there is no resistance which can develop.

Oh yeah, should go without saying but... make sure to locate and remove the original source of infection or you will also start thinking about 'resistant' mites. lolol

Anyone tried this on russets yet?

First result in Google when searching for 'resistant' spidermites (university of Michigan, USA):

How to handle resistant spider mites in your greenhouse

Managing spider mites in ornamental greenhouses has become more challenging due to resistance to some miticides. Learn what products and spray methods may work for you.

www.canr.msu.edu

In this article:
Managing spider mites in ornamental greenhouses has become more challenging due to resistance to some miticides. Learn what products and spray methods may work for you.

Spider mite develop 'resistance' to pesticides over time and this phenomenon is reaching a critical point, this is a well known fact.

I believe you when you say alcohol works, and there's no resistance to be developed from alcohol, but that's not something I am personally willing to do with my plants. They would much sooner go in the trash. Then again I don't have valuable genetics to keep. I just like to try as many different strains as I can.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

miticides.... not iso.
(Edit: Only used on vegging plants, no residuals show in flower and the plants really appreciate it without any harm at all.)

like saying humans can resist bleach

 

[revegeta666]

miticides.... not iso.

like saying humans can resist bleach

I will keep my predators thanks.

Edit: sorry I was slow to understand what you meant, ok, yes I would agree that alcohol according to your experience is more effective than commercial mite products, and impossible to build tolerance to. I would agree that makes it a much better solution than other chemicals.

I still personally don't think it's optimal compared to predators. But that would be starting the usual chemical/mineral/organic argument, and I'm not about telling others what to do

 

[Wuachuma]

When I started in the industry, everyone was using Avid, Forbid, et al
I dont think gardening is worth the possibility of cancers. So its nice that there are organic options.

Mites of all kinds - spider, russet, broad - can be easily defeated with organic sprays.
The easiest no-hassle option is a couple offerings from SNS. If you look at their labels, its essential oils and a wetting agent.
I blend my own oils to great effect.
You will wasnt something from the mint family, a rosemary, a thyme, clove. Then you want to emulsify this blend properly so the oils dont burn the plant. I like to use potassium silicate. The K-Sil has the added benefit of being a miticide itself in this blend. Add this to water, and spray with the HID lights off - and keep them off for at least 4 hrs(spray around "night time") - I like to use regular room lights as I turn off HIDs then turn off the room lights during routine "lights-off" period so as not to disrupt the diurnal cycle.

 

[Randy Lahey]

"Then again I don't have valuable genetics to keep. I just like to try as many different strains as I can."

Would you like to get ahold of some valuable genetics you would want to keep?

 

[revegeta666]

Would you like to get ahold of some valuable genetics you would want to keep?

You're very kind but I already tried a couple of elite clones and while they were special, I just like to grow new stuff all the time. It's more an OCD kind of thing than anything.

 

[Loc Dog]

People like to think big when it comes to predators pouncing on their nemesis - however think small. Fungi, bacteria, sugar.

I like to ferment sprouted hempseeds/microgreens with raw sugar and water, and that deals with a lot of insect infestations. Once every 2 weeks for extra energy, and 3 x per week if there is an infest infestation to get rid of.

What fungi and bacteria for spider mites?

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

My main issue with predators is they are still in the grow and their excrement and body parts are not exactly a flavor benefit. Same reason I am against ladybugs. I can almost taste a gnat fart in a high wind. lol

That, and 69F/15-20%RH will not allow predators to 'thrive' so they become an unnecessary and repeated expense in my flower room. No worries, I get rid of them and am done. I've not had mites in a few years now, and have not picked up new cuts in that same amount of time.

Were I in an area where they were very alive in the surrounding area, I would definitely invest in several types of predators for the yard around my indoor grow. They are awesome in that arena.

 

[troutman]

Don't give up. It takes time to get rid of pests. Just stay on them and learn as you go.
Next grow, plan ahead with preventatives and you'll do much better from then on.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

What fungi and bacteria for spider mites?

I don't know which fungi or bacteria would work specifically, however this is what I do.

This is a small mini-thread on fermenting sprouted hemp microgreens/sprouts, fermenting them, and their immediate effect on leafminers. It kills leafminers in the leaf within a day. And for people and plants, it is completely non-toxic, even healthy to drink.

Spidermites close to flower

MgSu,Mo,B,Mr Fulvic and mkp as ph down

www.icmag.com

The combination of water sprays, sugars (to many bugs outright sugar is a poison) and the bacteria and fungi beneficial to hemp/cannabis do the rest.

When spraying a plant:

1) work from top to bottom - work with gravity.
2) first use a fine mist to get everything wet, then use a strong spray to dislodge and remove as many bugs as possible. Especially pay attention to the underside of the leaves.
3) also spray the soil and the containers

And after the spray has knocked them back or eliminated them, you can still introduce predators, which will have a a much easier job of it.

I'm going to check out having different plants and their effects on attracting (trapping) or deterring pests.

 

[Randy Lahey]

It is totally worth it when trying to save genetics. Sux your buddy has to deal with that....

 

[mojave green]

Nah