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Is it normal for there to be this much yellowing during flowering?

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
i know everyone already told you its nitrogen def and you should feed more. but if you just transplanted 2-3 weeks ago into soil with fert then i doubt thats nitrogen def. its more likely magnesium def considering what stage of growth you're in. a teaspoon of epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water should fix it, or some lime if you have some.

your third picture says it all. green veins yellow leaf. mag def.
 
Okay so I fed my plants some epsom salt but i dont know if it fixed the problem. The yellow leaves have since died off I still see more yellowing. Heres some more pics. Think it's still a deficiency? Nitrogen or mag?
 

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any ideas people? ive fed my plants all nutrients that could cause a deficiency and im still getting yellow leaves...could it be a bug problem? im finding white pinpoint dots on some of my leaves and i dont know what that could be
 

relief

Active member
Phytophthora (root rot), is a disease that attacks the roots that feed your plant (feeder roots). Feeder roots (small fine roots) are responsible for uptake of N, and micro nutrients. Thats why plants with root rot show deficiency symptoms of magnesium, iron, sulfur and/or nitrate.






This illustration below shows the stages of root rot.


First plant to the left show beginning stages, the next shows intermediate stage and far right shows advanced rot.
phytophthora-lucerne.jpg




I would recommend moving the plants to a partially shaded area and hold back on the watering until they start to green back up. New growth will be greener and older affected leaves will cease to get lighter.
 
it seems like i got contradicting responses. lysol recommended flushing while relief said to hold back on watering. how can i test my plants for root rot?
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
Just read this months new Maximum Yield mag, and there's an article that says (basically)

Stop using PK boosters in flower, or at least leave off the K
Indoor plants need 5 times more N and K in flower than they need K (outdoors, P washes away VERY fast, but not indoors)
Indoor plants perform MUCH better when 3-part nutes are used in a 1-1-1 ratio instead of the popular 3-2-1.

Just thought I'd share, yes you need more N.
 

relief

Active member
it seems like i got contradicting responses. lysol recommended flushing while relief said to hold back on watering. how can i test my plants for root rot?

Go ahead and flush, but after that hold back on the water. If the tips are burning after adding N then only logical conclusion is root rot. Also, if you flush catch the first bit of water that comes out and smell it. If it has a slight septic smell then you know what the problem is.

Heres some plants I was watering too much. July 10th.

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Here they are after I cut back on watering. No nutes have been added (soil has been amended). Taken July 25th.

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Taken yesterday.

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They've gotten darker and darker since I've held back on the water.
 
yeah i can see they are getting darker, its quite a big difference. i actually checked my roots today and they are white and healthy. the soil isnt soggy or smelly. i generally water every 2 days and outdoors the temps range from 85-99. think i should cut back even more on that? could they benefit from some nitrogen?
 

relief

Active member
Are you checking the roots at the top or can you pull the plant out of the pot and check the bottom? The top can be bone dry, white roots and smelling good, but the bottom of the pot could be the exact opposite.
 
Are you checking the roots at the top or can you pull the plant out of the pot and check the bottom? The top can be bone dry, white roots and smelling good, but the bottom of the pot could be the exact opposite.

true, i only checked the top 6 inches or so. is it possible that the tips could be burnt even after i add nitrogen assuming the plant has sufficient amounts of PK and other micronutes that adding those in conjunction with nitrogen caused tip burning from the other nutes?
 
L

lysol

Are you watering only after the pot starts to feel light?

Lets assume it was a N deficiency ( might not be true )... increasing nutrient strength would not fix that, you'd only want to respond by changing the ratios its receiving since it was already burnt. It's also possible N was locked out but I don't see a lot of burning. Your leaves didnt look that droopy to me but looking back I do see one or two that aren't "reaching up", so relief could be right.

As far as contradicting advice in the sticky for this forum it tells not to just blindly follow advice, we're just trying to help based on what you are telling us, but its possible something doesnt show up in the pics, or theres something you didnt notice / tell us, etc...

Also growing weed is counter intuitive in that a single symtom can be caused by a myriad of problems ( http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/sleepyrz/navy/deficiencylist.jpg )

I would treat it as Magnesium lockout

"When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well."

Could attribute to seeing overwatering symptoms.
 
well after looking at that table, i can say i have almost every symptom of nitrogen def. the only thing that wasn't listed was the droopy leaves. ive had more droopy leaves (a lot more) since those pictures were taken and it's definitely not from over watering and im starting to wonder if that can occur in conjunction with a def, or a lockout like you mentioned earlier. thinking back, the only nutes ive added were cal mag about 4 days ago and bio bizz grow and bloom about 3 days ago. its still a little early to see what difference they made but to my eyes the yellowing has at least slowed its just that the leaves are more droopy now.
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
They look hungry to me, have you been feeding em with full strength nutes? Also, I didn't see any nute burn, jus leaves futher on the decline. BC
 
okay i decided im gonna feed them with the biobizz grow/bloom today and see how that goes.

one thing i noticed is that some of my newer leaves are curling on their sides and also all the way around so that the back of the leaf is exposed to the sun. im wondering what can cause this? i got a few more pics and you can see some curled leaves along with a few burnt tips which may or may not be nute burn. i can also take more specific pictures at request if you think it would help a further diagnosis

PS. Thank you to everyone especially lysol and relief, your knowledge and advice is extremely helpful
 

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L

lysol

twisted leafs = PH lockout, I cant tell from your current pics tho, closeup would be better. I do see a lil burn in those last pics but it looks like it was few week old burn

and heres a quote from some orchid supplies I just bought "do not try to make up for not fertilizing by overfertilizing, instead fertilize weakly weekly" ( replace weekly with daily )
 
i checked the pH of the soil with a pH meter and it comes up as 6.9. after looking up a nute chart the only possible nute lockouts are Mn and Iron, of which i dont have the symptoms for. the curling isnt that bad, if you take a look at the second picture with the main kola bud in the foreground, there are two leaves coming off the right and they have a bright green strip on them. that is the underside of the leaf and im not sure if its even something to worry about, just something i noticed.

and your sure it is safe to use biobizz nutes daily? i may have been too careful in trying not to overfeed them (i gave them 1 teaspoon/gal of each grow and bloom a few days ago and then some more today)
 
L

lysol

Soil meters are not to be trusted. Runoff PH tested w/ drops should come up with a different #
 
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