Is anybody experimenting with temps and trichs?

[I Care]

Here I go again asking questions with titles. I’m wondering because of my own personal experience after some abuse during the curing process.

Had some buds that I expected to turn color, but I started to witness the potency going down and the bulking up had stopped for about two weeks. Decided it was time even though they really hadn’t really matured to the level I was waiting for.

After a long scooter ride I left my jar in the trunk and it was hot in there. Finally I had some amber and a light green frosty jar finally appeared fully mature. I’m kinda thinking that is what was missing while waiting for color. That I was missing the target on temps and humidity at the end of flower. Feel a little like I missed the actual days of maturity waiting on them to turn and maybe I was just not giving enough warmth.


So back to the question, anybody know if temp and humidity is the right way to encourage the maturity of trichs at the end of flowering?

I want to say it’s 82F and 70% humidity, although thats the threshold of totally screwed. Risky in case of any fluctuations.

What do you think/know?

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Personally... I veg longer for a larger plant, then flower around 70F(MAX!)/20-30%RH. Cool and dry consistently creates the most trichome dense, terpene/cannabinoid rich flowers for me.

Color only shows on strains known for color(Edit: Read your question wrong. My apologies. I've never noticed amber differences through temp/rh manipulation, only extreme quality differences). The other main difference is the yield is lower, hence the longer veg time.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Read the last 20+ years of forum postings and articles on cannabis. You'll see, time and time again, growers noting how they failed during the winter grow to keep temps and RH up... but they produced the best quality so far.

Cool and dry for the win, with an added bonus of massively low mold issues. (3x/minute air exchange)

 

[I Care]

I just thought about getting another duct fan. Warmer and more humid than comfortable inside and translates into the night rig the way tents compound things. Well I woke up this afternoon and was brutal in my place. No drastic changes in the trichs.

my space is about 25cubic so I’ll just get whatever cheap-o catches my eye when i catch the coin. def high heat ain’t working indoor for anything but fusarium.


going to try the scooter trunk trick again not to do it with all the puffage this time so I can do a side by side

 

[dogzter]

Temps in the 60's with low teen humidity is what I like personally.
Hotter and moister makes a bit more production wise but doesn't seem quite as good as the winter grows.
Time effects the maturity degradation is what everything else does?

 

[PadawanWarrior]

I just thought about getting another duct fan. Warmer and more humid than comfortable inside and translates into the night rig the way tents compound things. Well I woke up this afternoon and was brutal in my place. No drastic changes in the trichs. View attachment 19068353


my space is about 25cubic so I’ll just get whatever cheap-o catches my eye when i catch the coin. def high heat ain’t working indoor for anything but fusarium.


going to try the scooter trunk trick again not to do it with all the puffage this time so I can do a side by side
View attachment 19068354

I hope I'm wrong but it looks like the beginning of powdery mildew in the first pic.

 

[acespicoli]

I hope I'm wrong but it looks like the beginning of powdery mildew in the first pic.

if so try some live milk water... after you go bone dry for a spell
sulfur is especially useful yeah anything over 80F isnt good
and 40% humidity is hard to achieve in coastal areas even running appliances

Like dogzer said winter is best for sensitive strains, thats why this skunk waits on winter

Cold air holds less moisture than hot air, drought stress promotes terpene production and sugar feeds

Indoor mold - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Prevention​

Mold growth can be inhibited by keeping surfaces at conditions that are further from condensation, with relative humidity levels below 75%. This usually translates to a relative humidity of indoor air below 60%, in agreement with the guidelines for thermal comfort that recommend a relative humidity between 40 - 60 %. Moisture buildup in buildings may arise from water penetrating areas of the building envelope or fabric, from plumbing leaks, rainwater or groundwater penetration, or from condensation due to improper ventilation, insufficient heating or poor thermal quality of the building envelope.[12] Even something as simple as drying clothes indoors on radiators can increase the risk of mold growth, if the humidity produced is not able to escape the building via ventilation.[13]

Dew point - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

An Introduction to Vapor Pressure Deficit | Ceres Greenhouse

How well do you understand temperature and relative humidity in your greenhouse environment? Learn more about VPD in a greenhouse environment.

ceresgs.com

Vapour-pressure deficit - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Transpiration - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Im interested in your findings look forward to seeing what kinda result you get

 

[I Care]

I hope I'm wrong but it looks like the beginning of powdery mildew in the first pic.

Sadly

if so try some live milk water... after you go bone dry for a spell
sulfur is especially useful yeah anything over 80F isnt good
and 40% humidity is hard to achieve in coastal areas even running appliances
View attachment 19068367
Like dogzer said winter is best for sensitive strains, thats why this skunk waits on winter

Cold air holds less moisture than hot air, drought stress promotes terpene production and sugar feeds

Indoor mold - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Prevention​

Mold growth can be inhibited by keeping surfaces at conditions that are further from condensation, with relative humidity levels below 75%. This usually translates to a relative humidity of indoor air below 60%, in agreement with the guidelines for thermal comfort that recommend a relative humidity between 40 - 60 %. Moisture buildup in buildings may arise from water penetrating areas of the building envelope or fabric, from plumbing leaks, rainwater or groundwater penetration, or from condensation due to improper ventilation, insufficient heating or poor thermal quality of the building envelope.[12] Even something as simple as drying clothes indoors on radiators can increase the risk of mold growth, if the humidity produced is not able to escape the building via ventilation.[13]
View attachment 19068368

Dew point - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

An Introduction to Vapor Pressure Deficit | Ceres Greenhouse

How well do you understand temperature and relative humidity in your greenhouse environment? Learn more about VPD in a greenhouse environment.

ceresgs.com

Vapour-pressure deficit - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Transpiration - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Im interested in your findings look forward to seeing what kinda result you get

only thing know to do is to remove what I can see and adjust fans so whole plant gets the shimmy going on. Recently tried zapping PM with 1100w of incandescent, 120 degrees and a dehumidifier on blast for 48hrs with success. Never tried live milk. NO more water to this mess this week and wont flood again.

That’s a nice looking skunk mom, don't know If I’ve ever had skunk weed. I bet that’s a treat for puffing on while preparing the garden in spring. not yet sure what I’m going to throw in the rig for winter

Temps in the 60's with low teen humidity is what I like personally.
Hotter and moister makes a bit more production wise but doesn't seem quite as good as the winter grows.
Time effects the maturity degradation is what everything else does?

Thats what I set my A/C to when I was in the southeast. It was set on 60 and that meant running 24/7. 5x5 had an exhaust and the temp/hum probe for my monitor hung directly below the fixture would run a constant 82, until one day I left the run off in there because I was in a hurry and closed the door. humidity compounded into temperature rise. Had to pull out and carefully inspect every bud, every day, until the finish.

 

[Lester Beans]

You got your temps in the tent up to 120 to try and kill pm? Wow that's a new one.

70% RH near the end of flower is a disaster waiting to happen. Growing cannabis the only time RH is that high for me is the beginning of veg.

There are quite a few threads covering the basics on this fine site. Check them out. A great grower masters the basics then repeats.

Wettable Sulphur for the pm