dude06version said:
I always looking for ways to improve things....this is just another experiment...there are still plants being Feed the "Schultz Mix"
And the Tea has Thrive in it.......
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- Thread starter DrBudGreengenes
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I always looking for ways to improve things....this is just another experiment...there are still plants being Feed the "Schultz Mix"
And the Tea has Thrive in it.......
I'm pretty pumped up for this new thread doc. I've been following your threads since you started posting on Grasscity and I've learned so very much from you so thank you for that knowledge my friend. Your methods are awesome and have helped me start some awesome grows. Unfortunately I've never gotten to finish any of them but my new one grow will hopefully be stealthy enough to pass inspection. Is there anything special you do to your fans to make it so that the noise they generate is almost non-existent or is that not a security factor for you?
I'm happy to see a new thread clean of bullshit and empty arguments. We should try to keep it that way guys because I would hate to be a mod responsible for cleaning one of Drbud's threads. He already has 3 threads that have been ruined so just let him do his thing and teach us all
I'm happy to see a new thread clean of bullshit and empty arguments. We should try to keep it that way guys because I would hate to be a mod responsible for cleaning one of Drbud's threads. He already has 3 threads that have been ruined so just let him do his thing and teach us all
hey doctor like many others I am trying to duplicate what you do as best I can, one question when trying to "dial in a strain" what variable should you adjust, should you take different size clones? adjust the distance they start from the lights? take small clones but allow them to veg for a while?...thanks in advance....
I was at the grocery store yesterday in the chinese food sectionand I remembered what a friend from organics mentioned.
If you want a non hydro shop source of seaweed buy some sushi wrapers, they are cheap and crumble nicely into a tea for a serious boost in micronutes and K.
If you want a non hydro shop source of seaweed buy some sushi wrapers, they are cheap and crumble nicely into a tea for a serious boost in micronutes and K.
bigd21 said:
I'm trying to figure out the same thing cuz I've only had 3 of my Urkels stretch the way we want for this style and the rest just stayed small
I have one that I flowered at the same time with the same amount of veg and it stayed 4" and has been in flower for 7 weeks!!! please help a student out 
also I wanted to see how big your root system is on your cuts when you pull them out of the perlite cloner and transplant so I have a better idea, thanks bro
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DrBudGreengenes said:
Indeed they are - watt for watt flourescents produce slightly more heat that hps but of course the distribution is a little better and IR radiation is less. Still in terms of heating up the room you really do need to think about ventilation.
The clones are almost of the same size now I see
I wonder if the ones starting out the smallest will end up being taller if they have a longer stretch phase too...dragonborn
New member
maybe this would explain some about the tea yet better
Alfalfa - While at first glance it would appear that nitrogen is the big benefit from alfalfa (Meal: 5-1-2; Pellets: 14-4-8), with a good dose of iron and trace elements, the real benefit comes from a fatty acid alcohol called triacontanol which occurs naturally in the waxy surface of the plant’s leaves. Triacontanol is a root stimulant which, when used in small quantities, can increase yields in garden plots by 30 to 60%.
^basiclly SuperThrive , now while this is good it can also be bad.. too much of a good thing usually ends in bad ways. the same stimulant is found in SuperThrive , here is where it can go wrong, say 10 drops superthrive to 1 gallon , plants will love ya , 20 drops superthrive , your plants will more then likely look like the hunchback of notre dame "deformed" if not dead.
Corn meal: contains natural insecticides
Molasses: source of fast consuming sugars for feeding and breeding the aerobic bacteria in compost teas. Most microherd populations love the high carbon content in sugar products.
sounds like a perfect additive for the tea , has everything his shultz 10-15-10 and fish bacth has + more.
keep up the good work.
Alfalfa - While at first glance it would appear that nitrogen is the big benefit from alfalfa (Meal: 5-1-2; Pellets: 14-4-8), with a good dose of iron and trace elements, the real benefit comes from a fatty acid alcohol called triacontanol which occurs naturally in the waxy surface of the plant’s leaves. Triacontanol is a root stimulant which, when used in small quantities, can increase yields in garden plots by 30 to 60%.
^basiclly SuperThrive , now while this is good it can also be bad.. too much of a good thing usually ends in bad ways. the same stimulant is found in SuperThrive , here is where it can go wrong, say 10 drops superthrive to 1 gallon , plants will love ya , 20 drops superthrive , your plants will more then likely look like the hunchback of notre dame "deformed" if not dead.
Corn meal: contains natural insecticides
Molasses: source of fast consuming sugars for feeding and breeding the aerobic bacteria in compost teas. Most microherd populations love the high carbon content in sugar products.
sounds like a perfect additive for the tea , has everything his shultz 10-15-10 and fish bacth has + more.
keep up the good work.
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Day 11 Update
Day 11 Update
Hi Everybody Here we are at day 11...
Plz feel free to ask any Questions about these Gurls that you would like
Day 9 pic...
Day 11 update...
The 3 Geishas are showing Pistils....
I will begin to take some pics of Individual plants probably next week...
Day 11 Update
Hi Everybody Here we are at day 11...
Plz feel free to ask any Questions about these Gurls that you would like
Day 9 pic...
Day 11 update...
The 3 Geishas are showing Pistils....
I will begin to take some pics of Individual plants probably next week...
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Maj.PotHead said:
Yo Maj.PotHead....looks like "These Conditions" are Workin just fine. Bro.......
And there is another one just like it above.......
"To Each His Own"
G. Sensi
Member
Blessings DBG... hope you and the Mrs are well today...
If I could bother you with a question... have you ever used fewer CFL bulbs of higher wattages in your cabs?
I puttin together a micro CFL cab as I speak (~5 sq ft) but I've been on the fence as to whether to go with 10x 42watt bulbs, 4x 125watts , 2x 200's or even 2x 250's and just wanted to know if you would advise against those big bulbs in a cab pretty similar in dimensions to yours....
I said it before and I sayin it now, these threads you put together for us are so helpful and truly appreciated...
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give...
Love and Joy
-G
If I could bother you with a question... have you ever used fewer CFL bulbs of higher wattages in your cabs?
I puttin together a micro CFL cab as I speak (~5 sq ft) but I've been on the fence as to whether to go with 10x 42watt bulbs, 4x 125watts , 2x 200's or even 2x 250's and just wanted to know if you would advise against those big bulbs in a cab pretty similar in dimensions to yours....
I said it before and I sayin it now, these threads you put together for us are so helpful and truly appreciated...
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give...
Love and Joy
-G
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G. Sensi said:
Lets look at this from a scientific viewpoint....
10 x 42's Gives you...
10 points of light origin = 10 "Sweet Spots" all around the cab Vs 2 or 4 "Sweet Spots"
If you lose a Bulb during a cycle,you have only lost 10% of your light until it is replaced Vs 25% or 50% with the larger Bulbs.
The 42 watt CFL from HomeDePot are under warranty for 9 years....Buy them once and grow Forever.
Now don't get me wrong I like the Big Bulbs....just not the Cost or Replacement Cost
Hey doctor, when the cell started they all were different heights, but the canopy has now evened out, what was the difference in the cuts on day one? did they receive different veg times, or were they just different sized cuts from the start?
also for a grower that doesnt have access to the goodies to mix up there own soil, what home depot/walmart soil or combo would you suggest?
also for a grower that doesnt have access to the goodies to mix up there own soil, what home depot/walmart soil or combo would you suggest?
G. Sensi
Member
Dont want to speak for DBG...
But to answer your question Bigd, after lots of testin and dialing in his strains, DBG has basically figured out exactly what height he needs his various strains to start flowering at for them to finish up with an even canopy right below his fixed lights....
Hope that helps...
-G
But to answer your question Bigd, after lots of testin and dialing in his strains, DBG has basically figured out exactly what height he needs his various strains to start flowering at for them to finish up with an even canopy right below his fixed lights....
Hope that helps...
-G
bounty29 said:
There Ya' go Bounty has it right, Take 6 clones of each for the first run of a New cut.
Flower the cuts at 1",2",3"4,"5" and 6" in Height.....this will usually find the "Starting Point" with the first run
richirich_99
Member
Dr. just wanted to tell you how much i have learned over the last few months reading over all of your threads both on here and at GC. I have a cab that i am about to start my sog in as soon as my 4 bagseed girls finish flowering. They've only been flowering for about 2 weeks. Also, whats your thoughts on transplanting 4 flowering plants into smaller containers? I started in a bigger cab, but had to switch and now the pots thier in are too big to allow me to start my sog. Thanks dr!
The high number of lights has another advantage - it actually increases "penetration" of the light in at least 2 ways:
1. Most leaves/buds that would otherwise be shaded out will probably be illuminated directly by one or more lights.
2. The inverse square law changes as the number of lights go up... If the grow area is large enough (actually infinitely large, hehe but let's forget about that for now...) then it doesn't matter at all what the distance to the lights are... You can emulate a very large multi-highbay light grow on a smaller scale.
3. (speculative) Plants receiving the light from all sides might translate into fewer chlorophyl molecules getting hit by a photon while they're still busy taking care of the last one... photosynthesis isn't an instantaneous process.
Another option would be 120cm (4 foot) flourescents if you have the space.
36W Philips TL-D 830 have a spectrum comparable to warm-white CFL, and 3350 lumens... that's 93 lumens/W. To be totally fair you have to factor in the ballast too because the ballast is included in CFL wattage- I think it's around 9 watts for a magnetic ballast and a lot less for an electronic.
With 9 watts we're still at 74.4 lumens/W - quite a bit better than other flourescents I've seen - excluding some T5 of course but then you also have to think about the price... 36W Philips TL-D 830 are pretty cheap...
1. Most leaves/buds that would otherwise be shaded out will probably be illuminated directly by one or more lights.
2. The inverse square law changes as the number of lights go up... If the grow area is large enough (actually infinitely large, hehe but let's forget about that for now...) then it doesn't matter at all what the distance to the lights are... You can emulate a very large multi-highbay light grow on a smaller scale.
3. (speculative) Plants receiving the light from all sides might translate into fewer chlorophyl molecules getting hit by a photon while they're still busy taking care of the last one... photosynthesis isn't an instantaneous process.
Another option would be 120cm (4 foot) flourescents if you have the space.
36W Philips TL-D 830 have a spectrum comparable to warm-white CFL, and 3350 lumens... that's 93 lumens/W. To be totally fair you have to factor in the ballast too because the ballast is included in CFL wattage- I think it's around 9 watts for a magnetic ballast and a lot less for an electronic.
With 9 watts we're still at 74.4 lumens/W - quite a bit better than other flourescents I've seen - excluding some T5 of course but then you also have to think about the price... 36W Philips TL-D 830 are pretty cheap...
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i like me some t5's, building an all cfl bloom box to use over winter while i dial in my t5 box again (still could be better)
