OK, you got me thinking now... I'm growing Johaar at the moment and it is from 29 degrees North. that latitude gives a maximum of 11/13 in the depths of winter, and 13/11 in the summer. Does this mean it might make sense to start them off at 13/11, and then go to 11/13 to flower? Might this help control stretch? I started them at 18/6, and have just flipped to 12/12 this week.
Wondering about using longer times for flowering - in that case how do you trigger flower? Or is it just a case of knowing the variety and what it likes?
Pizzaman,
I am talking about pure Sativas. They cant grow in Ohio. You must have a hybrid of some type or maybe an auto?
Hey Pizzaman, we all gotta grow what makes us happy.
My frame of reference comes from the great imported Columbians, Panama Reds, Acapulco Gold, Jamaicans, Thais etc that we smoked in the 70's. There are qualities and subtleties to the smoke that you just cant experience in the weed now. You like the clear and creative Sativa high so you know some of what I am talking about already.
I can completely understand why you want a no hassle Sat dom cross. For me its about growing the ultimate smoke with all the richness and multi dimensional qualities that it offers. And the satisfaction that comes from achieving that heavenly smoke.
Aliceklar,
for all that I said I didnt answer your question about what you got going now. How big are they?
You made the classic mistake of growing them on a temperate zone light cycle. Your Johaar is pretty much the same as any Tropical. There is no veg cycle in the tropics. You have seedling stage and then about a month in they will throw pre flowers and go right into flower. By doing the standard 18/6 veg like you might with a Kush you have extended a very long flowering cycle into an even longer run. Consider this. You grow an Indica on a 60 day veg and then you flower for 60 to 80 days. 5 months right? Sativas get a bad rap for being too long of a grow. 16 weeks in flower is 4 months . Plus add 1 month for seedling stage. Done in the same time frame. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Now that you know the cycle for Johaar you have to modify it to what will work for you. What do you do with that knowledge? To be practical, unless you have a large, high ceiling room you will have to start under 12/12. 13/11 will get you monsters. Let them get up and going for about a week and thats it. Drop them to 11/13 for a while but watch them. They will want to stretch which is okay. When they get about halfway to where you want them get them down to 10/14. They are like a freight train once they start the stretch. It will take awhile to get them stopped but 10/14 will do that.
Also, this is my method for feeding. Do not feed N. Very little if you must. Dont use Happy Frog or any other loaded with Nutes soil mix. It'll make them reach for the sky. If you see some yellowing feed something low N like 2-2-2. Feed plenty of P and some K. They need it and the faster you get them into heavy flower mode the less they will want to stretch.
Also another little trick for Sativas. Start them in a small pot. When they are about a month in and 6 to 8 nodes tall transplant them into a bigger pot. Be quick and easy with them so you dont stress them. Transplanting at that time triggers flowering for some reason. I use that little trick on every run and it works great on many strains
Yes but the thread is about preserving landrace indoors so I don't know why you are saying it's a moot point. A 90% sativa hybrid is not a landrace. I think sunshineinabag is wanting to grow varieties such as are available at the RSC, which are mostly landraces. I disagree that there is only slight difference between a sativa hybrid and a landrace. I think there's significant difference depending what you grow of course. Indica affects the high.Supposedly 87% sativa, purple #1 x early skunk. But an established outdoor strain for the US and UK. Hell no, not PURE Sativa! But it's tall, stretchy, airy, low yield, low thc, etc etc.... A sativa lmao
I wasn't even gonna use them indoors if at all! They were for a potential outdoor plot.
https://dutch-passion.com/en/cannab...write=cannabis-seeds&selected_filters=shaman/
It's just the slight difference between a landrace sativa (and it's obscure environment) vs a mostly sativa that's easier/more productive indoors or in my climate would be my vote. Especially when you are probably talking 10% thc and giant plants with low yields indoors.
The "sativa" high is all I want. I wanna draw pictures and throw a frisbee, I don't do that on 90% of the modern weed available to me.
Mexican dirt weed for cheap in Arizona was my favorite high ever!
So if there's a specific landrace you know by name and love, then buy it! But otherwise landrace is kind of a moot point because we aren't on the shady side of a mountain in tibet ha ha. They just survive in an obscure environment, they aren't selected for yield, thc content, or effect. They just survived.
So landrace is basically just for educational reference in a way. Ya know?
Why not just buy sativas for your latitude? I'm growing out Shaman. Cheap and appropriate for Ohio I think. But due to Seedsman not shipping my order for 30 days, I had to throw them inside my dresser. I have 11 shaman and four bagseeds in flower, in the BOTTOM HALF of a chest of drawers 16/8 veg, 11/13 flower.
So I have Sativas in 1l airpots, inside a 27" box. I only let them have four nodes before flower and it looks like I guessed perfectly. They have showed sex, and have room for a tad more stretch.
Thanks - just digested all this. That makes a lot of sense. I'm doing a lot of that already (started in 7cm pots, potted on to 11cm after a month) and have been feeding minimally - and only where individual plants showed signed of needing it. Very little N and lots of bonemeal & kelp in the compost. But the last grow and my current grow I started under 18/6. Might try next time with starting them under 13/11 or even 12/12 and see what difference that makes. Will also try in this grow incrementally dropping the light down to 11/13 or even 10/14 to see what that does. Because I'm growing in such small pots (1 litre), that should speed things up.
... can't landrace also mean indica plant? ...
So a hybrid could be more sativa than a landrace
Anyway, sounds like all of us are trying (in my mind) the same thing; less than 12/12 indoors, tiny pots. I took the "short veg" to the extreme. Others take the short light cycle to the extreme.
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I really dig older sat Dom euphoric chemovars. I digress I am on the 45 parallel or thereabouts...so I have 4-5 solid months of below 40f temps. May I ask the farmers here with experience trying this would give for advice in regards to all facets/stages of life for the chemovars. Can newer led tech get the job done for landraces? I appreciate your advice/help.
They werent as big as what I was expecting them to be. Should still be able to tame them down just fine.
Pizzaman, Landraces come from all over the world so yes you can have a Kush or Afghani Landrace. BLD and NLD types with every effect. And I think we are all pretty much on the same page on that.
This discussion was more about the large types which tend to give trouble when trying to grow indoors. They are also found all over the world. The Mazari types for example are tough and I think they are considered to be Kushs. Still mixed up with the recent re classification of Cannabis