incorrect npk and supplement ratios are some of the reasons for shitty bud

[beta]

Do you -have- to drop organic propaganda in every thread, or can you let us just have this one?

People look in science but those NPK science is shortsighted...

important thing is first to have medium of highest quality,that means healthy and rich soil,wormcastings,humus,good and quality organic matter is best food for organic being,plant is a definitly a organic being..

then its important to maintain or inoculate this same soil with beneficial bacteries
and mycorhiza on replanting,this will help to a plant to stay longer healthy and
will maintain ph in favorable ratios,then after you sees plant eated nutes in soil
while you feeded just water then you can add more food for plant as top dressings
or already intermixed with water solution,you could aerate,add vitamins,minerals,
natural plant hormones thru products that contain kelp,other seaweed products,
organic complexed sugars like good organic honey or blackstreep mollasses to
feed your bactery populations and then your plant will be feeded properly,
healthy and will dont have defficiences...

those micro world under us made much better job than any NPK chart or formula..

 

[RegisteredUser]

Keeping secrets is what destroys the industry.

 

[shanks]

I have a quick question about ca availability for the experts.

I grow in coco with salts. my tap water has 56ppm of ca, most of it in CaCO3 form. When I lower the pH with P acid, it reacts with carbonates. Is that Ca now soluble and available, or is it going to precipitate?

 

[bsgospel]

I'm pretty sure it was always available and it won't ever precipitate unless there's a change in relative oxygen content. You would need a lot more P and other elements to reach a capacity in your solution. Or say if you incorrectly added other anions, I think it's the anion that would be the culprit and not the Ca.

Edit to clarify: I think you would have to pH to 0-2 to see the precipitation theorized here. At which point: what's the point?

 

[kelly1376]

Jidoka (or anyone else)

Do you'll have any recommendations for growing in pure peat? Couldn't one just add enough lime to get CA to the recommended level and fertilize with high P fertilizer?

 

[jidoka]

No perlite? Not sure it would drain well enough.

With perlite is common in the greenhouse business. I think promix with 20-20-20 is common

 

[jidoka]

https://www.sungro.com/issue-33-april-2005-harmonizing-peat-and-lime/

https://www.greenhousegrower.com/pr...derstanding-plant-nutrition-limestone-and-ph/

https://www.greenhousegrower.com/pr...rient-sources-media-cation-exchange-capacity/

 

[jidoka]

Or check out what Scott’s is up to with peat

https://www.therootfactory.com/products/edible

 

[Dog Star]

No perlite? Not sure it would drain well enough.

With perlite is common in the greenhouse business. I think promix with 20-20-20 is common

Am dont use in soil mix perlite or vermiculite,nor peat,nor rice husks
or any aerators.... just 70% black soil and 30% wormcastings..

if you sees mine mix you will think that plant cant breath in this
medium but its opposite as they grow nice and healthy..

mine conclusion is that aerators just mess up things and made
plant more prone to pests or illnesses,also defs showing faster
in a medium with added aerators..

only thing i need to look that on repot i dont stiff mine soil mix
inside pot too hard.. then it can be problems but they are easy
avoidable.. once plant shoot roots from clone nothing can stop
her... they dont need actually aerators.. thats a urban mit
if you know how to bust him..



Kind regards Jidoka

 

[kelly1376]

Or check out what Scott’s is up to with peat

https://www.therootfactory.com/products/edible

Thanks for the links. Yeah I suppose perlite could be added too. I was mainly just asking hypothetically how would one would go about achieving yours and slownickels ideal ratios if you were using peat as a base.

 

[jidoka]

The first thing you have to do is buffer the pH. So that is lime and maybe some wollastonite for silica. You want to use an amount that gets you in 6-6.2 range and holds you there.

Then you want to get a soil test.

Based on that soil test you want to develop a fertilizer that gets you to the numbers you want

Just be aware peat weighs very little. So you a) gotta use a lot or b) fertilize every so often

 

[OneHitDone]

Any of the knowledgable posters from this thread still around?

 

[chiesesganja]

View attachment 442048

So this is leaf with a whole bunch of energy stored as fat. That sets the plant up to maximize terpenes and thc. It also protects the plant from pest/disease regardless if they are present in the room or not

Ratios are nothing like any bottled nute line there is. Not even close

feed to much....ugly

 

[ambertrichome]

We use Hydro Gardens Chem Gro

Its base is
4-20-39

We then add 15.5-0-0-Calcium Nitrate, and Epsom Salts
19.5-20-39

Chem Gro says tissue analysis on weed says it likes 2x Potassium vs Nitrogen, and is also Calcium/Magnesium Sulfate hungry. They have been making Plant Specific fertilizer since 1965.

We use Promix BX as the base, and give small feedings, each watering. Rarely, if ever skipping a feeding. Only reason would be we gave to much, but that usually doesn't happen.

We start feeding as soon as they sprout, and they are also under 1000w Hortilux HPS, or 1000w Gavita from day 1.

In weeks 3-4 we up the MonoPotassiumPhosphate-0-52-34.
In weeks 5-6 we increase the Epsom Salts.

All the while SLOWLY increasing the base 19.5-20-39 each week. Also do not believe in completely cutting out the Calcium Nitrate. 15.5-0-0 Last 2 weeks the PPM on everything is only slightly cut back. The main thing is to not overfeed them in the first place.

We do not use the full strength. We start out at 10% on small seedlings, and use measurement per 5 gallons water vs 1 gallon. We feed, water every time. Below is for Hydro.. Promix BX is a form of Hydro, but is more likely to hold excess salts vs Rockwool, or other inorganic substrates. So we just use a weak solution, and feed with each watering. Weve been doing this so long, it automatic.



CHEM-GRO 4-20 HYDROPONIC 4-20-39
Mixing Instructions per 1 gallon of water
(For full strength working solution)
4-20-39 Recipe – For a great baseline would be 2 grams per gallon of 4-20-39, 2 grams per gallon of CaNO3 and 2/3 that amount of MgSO4 (1 1/3 gram per gallon). We suggest you try to keep your pH right around 6.2 for the duration but some fluctuations are not uncommon. During middle weeks of flower, you can add 1/3 the amount of MKP for extra K (potassium). Certain strains can tolerate a higher EC than others and you are welcome to push those strains if you like but we feel the base mixture will do a great job.
Designed for Hemp/Cannabis growing hydroponically

 

[Feykns]

Let’s say P is most important to you:
3 gms cano3
2 mkp
Gives 123-120-150-150 n-p-k-ca

But do you want silicate? Ksil? That means you either have to raise k or drop p. Raise k is no bueno based on my tissue testing.

And let’s say you believe you need more so4 for terpenes. Gypsum...have you run it through an irrigation system? K2so4...well you gotta give up P.

And how much Mg (Epsom salt)?

The devil is in these details

how about SiO2? ... you could add Si without that P or K issue. it even doesn't effect the EC at all.

 

[Feykns]

1st)what if water soluble triple superphosphate 0-45-0-25-4.5 n-p-k-ca-s(oxides) would be used to reach the desired n1-p2-k1-ca>k ratio?

2nd)none of you having problems with precipitation when mixing a tank with Ca and K together?
i never had this issue with blended nutes... but how is it whith salts. i know, actually the same thing, but companies like haifa point out not to mix their 52-34 MKP with an Ca containing products (no Ca with P or K)

... what you thinkin'?