guess I should throw some glass back on my mh...I've never had that happen but it's not something I'd want to risk...still need to aircool the hood if the glass is in it?
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In My Growroom and I Hear An Explosion Above Me....
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
Im going to say there was a weak spot in the glass. The bulbs are pressurized with gas, when the electrical charge is put to the light the gas heats up and expands, a weak spot will cause an explosion.
Be careful with the clean up as MH, HPS and flouro bulbs contain mercury.
Be careful with the clean up as MH, HPS and flouro bulbs contain mercury.
Enclosed industrial fixtures aren't vented - in fact, many are sealed and gasketed to keep dust out. However, without airflow, the whole fixture is going to become a giant radiator. If you are using A/C and it can handle the load, then airflow through the reflector isn't really necessary. In my case, I just use airflow and no A/C.
Double Kindness
Member
I use vented enclosed bulbs with a/c and heat is my biggest issue. I switched to 315cmh this past couple of months and it's been a learning curve, but switched 1/2 to airpots too, so it's hard to tell really what's going on yet this season for me. Running behind. Again.
Bulbs blow. Be safe.
Bulbs blow. Be safe.
I'm running a single 1k MH in a rolling sealed room I built in my garage a few years back,it's currently in a reflector w/ no glass but that's an easy fix, it's got an a/c and temps are getting pretty cold so the heat is actually welcome. I have a dehuey that I need to put in because the a/c hardly runs
Story of my life! lol
not too much of a difference heat wise an you can usually buy a louvered cover that covers the duct ports 
Yes thats exactly why they need to be covered. they blow out like the scenes in the movies when they are hit with a baseball. they literally explode showering mercury an burning hot glass. HPS doesnt blow up so i think somone was dreamin above.
the heat cycling of the glass especially in a dedicated flowering room weakens the glass and it can happen its not always a result of a controlled factor
Yes thats exactly why they need to be covered. they blow out like the scenes in the movies when they are hit with a baseball. they literally explode showering mercury an burning hot glass. HPS doesnt blow up so i think somone was dreamin above.
the heat cycling of the glass especially in a dedicated flowering room weakens the glass and it can happen its not always a result of a controlled factor
JointOperation
Active member
this could of been a disaster.. this is why.. I turn on green lights in dark.. or cfls during lights on.. while I work in the room.. try to get in and out quickly.. as to not disturb anything. but with barebulbs.. being burnt is no joke.. so I don't bother keeping them on...
I'm a bit surprised that there aren't more grow fires, all things considered. People don't really understand the kind of stress that continuous heavy loads place on equipment, or just how much power 1000w really is.
When we think about it at all, the worst thing that could happen is very, very bad, like the grower & their family dying in a fire, maybe some neighbors, too. Short of that, I doubt that insurance would cover the damages. In the vast majority of jurisdictions, the fire dept showing up at your grow means you ratted yourself out.
So it's very important to be safe, and it's very important to understand what's safe & what isn't. It doesn't help that a lot of marketing doesn't give you a clue. I can readily buy a switchable 1000w ballast & open reflector, but nowhere do they tell me to only use O rated MH bulbs. Hell, the guy selling it to me may not know that. I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either. The instructions don't mention that. I can easily use an extension cord that's not up to the task that will end up operating at a temperature way too high for safety. Any weakness in the house wiring can create disaster, as well. Leaf litter & dry mulch are fuel for the flames if anything goes wrong, as are all readily combustible materials in the grow area.
I think a lot of people do it less than well & get over for years w/o serious mishap. That's often attributable to luck & the quality of the tech rather than conscious effort or knowledge on the part of the grower.
That's why the contributions of people who have technical knowledge, like rives, are so important to the community. He's probably saved people from burning down the house more than once. Happens all the time, unfortunately, so we owe it to ourselves to learn what we're dealing with & try to make sure it's not us.
When we think about it at all, the worst thing that could happen is very, very bad, like the grower & their family dying in a fire, maybe some neighbors, too. Short of that, I doubt that insurance would cover the damages. In the vast majority of jurisdictions, the fire dept showing up at your grow means you ratted yourself out.
So it's very important to be safe, and it's very important to understand what's safe & what isn't. It doesn't help that a lot of marketing doesn't give you a clue. I can readily buy a switchable 1000w ballast & open reflector, but nowhere do they tell me to only use O rated MH bulbs. Hell, the guy selling it to me may not know that. I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either. The instructions don't mention that. I can easily use an extension cord that's not up to the task that will end up operating at a temperature way too high for safety. Any weakness in the house wiring can create disaster, as well. Leaf litter & dry mulch are fuel for the flames if anything goes wrong, as are all readily combustible materials in the grow area.
I think a lot of people do it less than well & get over for years w/o serious mishap. That's often attributable to luck & the quality of the tech rather than conscious effort or knowledge on the part of the grower.
That's why the contributions of people who have technical knowledge, like rives, are so important to the community. He's probably saved people from burning down the house more than once. Happens all the time, unfortunately, so we owe it to ourselves to learn what we're dealing with & try to make sure it's not us.
TheAfficianado
Member
If the air, which you mentioned is 60 degrees had moisture, like even a tiny droplet, or had condensation on the bulb before start-up, this causes a difference in temperature of the surface area of the bulb and boom!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS1RIyR6uW8
I once accidentally hit my 400 watt HPS bulb with my spray from my spray bottle and boom!
So if the air coming into the enclosed hood doesn't have some light fabric filter like a dryer sheet between intake and bulb you may consider putting one on, if the air goes from garden directly to intake of bulb, moisture can be sucked up from the plant.
Sorry to here about it though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS1RIyR6uW8
I once accidentally hit my 400 watt HPS bulb with my spray from my spray bottle and boom!
So if the air coming into the enclosed hood doesn't have some light fabric filter like a dryer sheet between intake and bulb you may consider putting one on, if the air goes from garden directly to intake of bulb, moisture can be sucked up from the plant.
Sorry to here about it though.
TheAfficianado
Member
I don't understand this statement:
"I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either."
How is a 1000 watt digital ballast essentially a solenoid or electric motor? A ballast is essentially a step-up transformer, which is why they were originally entirely magnetic. The magnetic flux lines do not move out of their paths-- the field lines are always consistent following the "right hand rule" dependent on where the primary is wired.
The choice of resistance in Ohms is the proper standard for the timer switch. And the switch, especially an analog switch gets out of the way, and would have little to do with inductance, which would be using the henries (H) as a unit of measure. Inductors can be used to smooth rectified DC current, but this would not be the function of a timer switch, and any rectification takes place in the ballast itself.
If your total load is far less than than 15 ohms (and with a single 1000 watt ballast it should be, as long as there is not an extra extension cord), then the wire should not be hot to the touch - EVER.
What seriously screws people over is the difference between series and parallel ballast wiring, over several ballasts-- and no I wouldn't put more than 1200 watts on a single timer switch at 120.
If someone really wants to know the equation of the inductance for a circuit:
The change in reactance varies directly with inductance and the frequency of any alternating current. The DC resistance of the coil is essentially equal to the resistance of the wire, but the AC reactance varies with frequency, according to the inductance reactance formula:
X = L x 2 X Pi X f
L
where X is the reactance in Ohm's
L
L is the inductance in henries
Pi is 3.14....
f = frequency in Hertz
My point is that the frequency of any AC for our digital ballast purposes is really consistent in Western countries, and very little deviation, and whatever deviation there is is easily handled by the power section of the digital ballast in the form of capacitor/resistor filters to ground.
So there should be few worries if common (electrical) sense is heeded.
Always check the feel of your extension cords and if they are hot at all, they have too much load and are dangerous.
Just my 2 cents.
"I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either."
How is a 1000 watt digital ballast essentially a solenoid or electric motor? A ballast is essentially a step-up transformer, which is why they were originally entirely magnetic. The magnetic flux lines do not move out of their paths-- the field lines are always consistent following the "right hand rule" dependent on where the primary is wired.
The choice of resistance in Ohms is the proper standard for the timer switch. And the switch, especially an analog switch gets out of the way, and would have little to do with inductance, which would be using the henries (H) as a unit of measure. Inductors can be used to smooth rectified DC current, but this would not be the function of a timer switch, and any rectification takes place in the ballast itself.
If your total load is far less than than 15 ohms (and with a single 1000 watt ballast it should be, as long as there is not an extra extension cord), then the wire should not be hot to the touch - EVER.
What seriously screws people over is the difference between series and parallel ballast wiring, over several ballasts-- and no I wouldn't put more than 1200 watts on a single timer switch at 120.
If someone really wants to know the equation of the inductance for a circuit:
The change in reactance varies directly with inductance and the frequency of any alternating current. The DC resistance of the coil is essentially equal to the resistance of the wire, but the AC reactance varies with frequency, according to the inductance reactance formula:
X = L x 2 X Pi X f
L
where X is the reactance in Ohm's
L
L is the inductance in henries
Pi is 3.14....
f = frequency in Hertz
My point is that the frequency of any AC for our digital ballast purposes is really consistent in Western countries, and very little deviation, and whatever deviation there is is easily handled by the power section of the digital ballast in the form of capacitor/resistor filters to ground.
So there should be few worries if common (electrical) sense is heeded.
Always check the feel of your extension cords and if they are hot at all, they have too much load and are dangerous.
Just my 2 cents.
TheAfficianado
Member
I don't understand this statement:
"I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either."
How is a 1000 watt digital ballast essentially a solenoid or electric motor? A ballast is essentially a step-up transformer, which is why they were originally entirely magnetic. The magnetic flux lines do not move out of their paths-- the field lines are always consistent following the "right hand rule" dependent on where the primary is wired.
The choice of resistance in Ohms is the proper standard for the timer switch. And the switch, especially an analog switch gets out of the way, and would have little to do with inductance, which would be using the henries (H) as a unit of measure. Inductors can be used to smooth rectified DC current, but this would not be the function of a timer switch, and any rectification takes place in the ballast itself.
If your total load is far less than than 15 ohms (and with a single 1000 watt ballast it should be, as long as there is not an extra extension cord), then the wire should not be hot to the touch - EVER.
What seriously screws people over is the difference between series and parallel ballast wiring, over several ballasts-- and no I wouldn't put more than 1200 watts on a single timer switch at 120.
If someone really wants to know the equation of the inductance for a circuit:
The change in reactance varies directly with inductance and the frequency of any alternating current. The DC resistance of the coil is essentially equal to the resistance of the wire, but the AC reactance varies with frequency, according to the inductance reactance formula:
X = L x 2 X Pi X f
L
where X is the reactance in Ohm's
L
L is the inductance in henries
Pi is 3.14....
f = frequency in Hertz
My point is that the frequency of any AC for our digital ballast purposes is really consistent in Western countries, and very little deviation, and whatever deviation there is is easily handled by the power section of the digital ballast in the form of capacitor/resistor filters to ground.
So there should be few worries if common (electrical) sense is heeded.
Always check the feel of your extension cords and if they are hot at all, they have too much load and are dangerous.
Just my 2 cents.
"I can buy timers rated at 15 amps, which is resistive load, not inductive, so it's not really suitable for a 1000w system, either."
How is a 1000 watt digital ballast essentially a solenoid or electric motor? A ballast is essentially a step-up transformer, which is why they were originally entirely magnetic. The magnetic flux lines do not move out of their paths-- the field lines are always consistent following the "right hand rule" dependent on where the primary is wired.
The choice of resistance in Ohms is the proper standard for the timer switch. And the switch, especially an analog switch gets out of the way, and would have little to do with inductance, which would be using the henries (H) as a unit of measure. Inductors can be used to smooth rectified DC current, but this would not be the function of a timer switch, and any rectification takes place in the ballast itself.
If your total load is far less than than 15 ohms (and with a single 1000 watt ballast it should be, as long as there is not an extra extension cord), then the wire should not be hot to the touch - EVER.
What seriously screws people over is the difference between series and parallel ballast wiring, over several ballasts-- and no I wouldn't put more than 1200 watts on a single timer switch at 120.
If someone really wants to know the equation of the inductance for a circuit:
The change in reactance varies directly with inductance and the frequency of any alternating current. The DC resistance of the coil is essentially equal to the resistance of the wire, but the AC reactance varies with frequency, according to the inductance reactance formula:
X = L x 2 X Pi X f
L
where X is the reactance in Ohm's
L
L is the inductance in henries
Pi is 3.14....
f = frequency in Hertz
My point is that the frequency of any AC for our digital ballast purposes is really consistent in Western countries, and very little deviation, and whatever deviation there is is easily handled by the power section of the digital ballast in the form of capacitor/resistor filters to ground.
So there should be few worries if common (electrical) sense is heeded.
Always check the feel of your extension cords and if they are hot at all, they have too much load and are dangerous.
Just my 2 cents.
Incorrect. A magnetic ballast is an inductive load,which is what Jhhnn was referring to, and an electronic ballast is a capacitive load. The inrush on either is substantially higher than a resistive load, with the electronic one being far worse - they are essentially switching power supplies.
I don't know what you are referring to in your comment on series a-c wiring, but series wiring is never done between ballasts or virtually any other a-c device that I can think of.
I don't know what you are referring to in your comment on series a-c wiring, but series wiring is never done between ballasts or virtually any other a-c device that I can think of.
The issue with any inductive load is inrush current to establish the magnetic field, not the running load characteristics. That inrush can be many times normal operating current & hammers contact points. Industrial contactors & relays are de-rated for inductive devices of any sort for that very reason. That's also why very large HID lighting arrays are fired in banks, sequentially, to avoid overloading the service from the mains.
This timer is typical, for example-
http://www.amazon.com/402A-General-...1-6&keywords=timer#product-description-iframe
It's not difficult or expensive for DIY'ers to step up their game with the right hardware, like this-
http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/pr40powerrelays.pdf
Notice that it's derated to 2 HP inductive load, 1500w. That's 50,000 cycles, once a day for 137 years. Even with considerably larger inductive loads, it'll function for decades. The difference between consumer grade & industrial grade components can be enormous.
Rives linked me up with Automationdirect- a big thank you for that.
This timer is typical, for example-
http://www.amazon.com/402A-General-...1-6&keywords=timer#product-description-iframe
1/2 HP is only 373 watts running load. The timer is heavily de-rated for inductive loads, for a reason- the inrush current. It'll work for 1000w, but it'll fail prematurely and may overheat in the process creating a fire hazard.
It's not difficult or expensive for DIY'ers to step up their game with the right hardware, like this-
http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/pr40powerrelays.pdf
Notice that it's derated to 2 HP inductive load, 1500w. That's 50,000 cycles, once a day for 137 years. Even with considerably larger inductive loads, it'll function for decades. The difference between consumer grade & industrial grade components can be enormous.
Rives linked me up with Automationdirect- a big thank you for that.
Krunch you have ghosts in your room lol
10 Warning Signs
If you`re experiencing any of these symptoms, it may mean you have ghostly activity, especially if you`re experiencing more than one.
1. Electrical appliances and/or lights turn on or off by themselves. In your case bulbs blowing up
2. You hear footsteps, tapping, or bumps, in your home.
3. You frequently experience cold spots, or a room temperature dramatically drops.
4. You hear voices, music, or smells such as perfume or cigar smoke, or feel being touched somewhere on your body.
5. You see shadows move acrossed the room, or out of the corner of your eye.
6. You often feel that you`re being watched or get that chilling feeling that makes your hair on your arms stand up.
7. Items in your home disappear, then reappear frequently.
8. Items or furniture move on their own accord.
9. You see orbs, flashes of light, or mists.
10. You see an apparition.
If you experience any of these ten incidents, or especially more than one, this is good evidence to support that you may not be alone in your home.
What To Do
First off, don`t panic. You do have control over these types of situations & in many cases you can rid these spirits from your home, especially if they are annoying you, or just plain being a pest. Contrary to what some people or religions teach, I have yet to see legitimate proof that a devil exists. But there are rare instances where demonic forces have attached themselves to a victim & led them to physical illness, psychological illness, self mutilation, murder, & suicide. Demonic forces are NOT of human origin & have often been associated with fallen angels.
There are some ghosts that are moody & h`onery, but in most instances demons can be rare & there is little evidence to support any traditional style devil or "Satan", or even a place called Hell. When a person dies, their soul has a choice of staying on the earthly realm, or going into the white light. Some are afraid to go into the light, especially if they lived a dubious life, because they think they are going to burn in hell. But research seems to say otherwise.
Anyways this is one of the reasons i threw out all of my MH IMO HPS will work just as well of course training a plant
10 Warning Signs
If you`re experiencing any of these symptoms, it may mean you have ghostly activity, especially if you`re experiencing more than one.
1. Electrical appliances and/or lights turn on or off by themselves. In your case bulbs blowing up
2. You hear footsteps, tapping, or bumps, in your home.
3. You frequently experience cold spots, or a room temperature dramatically drops.
4. You hear voices, music, or smells such as perfume or cigar smoke, or feel being touched somewhere on your body.
5. You see shadows move acrossed the room, or out of the corner of your eye.
6. You often feel that you`re being watched or get that chilling feeling that makes your hair on your arms stand up.
7. Items in your home disappear, then reappear frequently.
8. Items or furniture move on their own accord.
9. You see orbs, flashes of light, or mists.
10. You see an apparition.
If you experience any of these ten incidents, or especially more than one, this is good evidence to support that you may not be alone in your home.
What To Do
First off, don`t panic. You do have control over these types of situations & in many cases you can rid these spirits from your home, especially if they are annoying you, or just plain being a pest. Contrary to what some people or religions teach, I have yet to see legitimate proof that a devil exists. But there are rare instances where demonic forces have attached themselves to a victim & led them to physical illness, psychological illness, self mutilation, murder, & suicide. Demonic forces are NOT of human origin & have often been associated with fallen angels.
There are some ghosts that are moody & h`onery, but in most instances demons can be rare & there is little evidence to support any traditional style devil or "Satan", or even a place called Hell. When a person dies, their soul has a choice of staying on the earthly realm, or going into the white light. Some are afraid to go into the light, especially if they lived a dubious life, because they think they are going to burn in hell. But research seems to say otherwise.
Anyways this is one of the reasons i threw out all of my MH IMO HPS will work just as well of course training a plant
Not THIS house, but ive lived/grown in a few haunted houses....
When I was 18-21 I lived in a house that a murder suicide with 3 kids happened and we didnt know till the last month I lived there!
I drive to that house every few years and give the new residents the scoop on the house...
House Fucknig tripped me out as a kid...
JointOperation
Active member
that's fucked up.... we actually went to check out a house a few weeks back.. and when we got there.. the renter was home.. and after we were leaving.. the dude pulled me aside and was like.. dude we are moving because this house is haunted.. and its causing issues within the family... are dogs don't will not go up to the second floor at all.. he will just sit and bark at the stairs... he wont go into the basement either.. and when the dog sleeps.. it sleeps in the corner of the room.. making sure it can see everything in the room.. its very awkward.
I was pissed.. that the person showing us the house.. didn't tell us a damn thing.. also explains the reasons why they didn't even ask us to fill out an application.. just wanted us into the house paying rent.. on a lease so we couldn't leave..
a lot of fucked up realtors.. and landlords out there..
I was pissed.. that the person showing us the house.. didn't tell us a damn thing.. also explains the reasons why they didn't even ask us to fill out an application.. just wanted us into the house paying rent.. on a lease so we couldn't leave..
a lot of fucked up realtors.. and landlords out there..
