Hey - definitely get a control bucket of some sort... the more i looked at the setups the more i realized its a big huge cheap water level.
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ImaginaryFriend's INTERPRETATION of Delta9nxs' PASSIVE PLANT KILLERS
- Thread starter ImaginaryFriend
- Start date
Hey - definitely get a control bucket of some sort... the more i looked at the setups the more i realized its a big huge cheap water level.
True words.
I forget why I spent hundreds of dollars on float valves*. Maybe I found a old lady's purse and was feeling rich. As I've built it out, I'm not super pleased with the way it looks like it'll operate, and I might end up with some tire valves with a main control. So if the smaller plants don't have as much uptake (i.e. if the pulsed feed drains to the lower res in excess) everything will remain within moderate levels.
*That's a lie:
1. I knew I was going to be staging my two veg plants under a common light and wanted to be able to raise or lower the newest plant as I got her started. Whether or not I can be bothered with such details remains to be seen. If you saw my laundry pile, you might think it unlikely. If you look at the photo above, it's clear I haven't gotten around to it yet.
2. I am still in a state of abject fear of transferring some kind of shitty root issues from one plant to another (I'm just another RDWC trauma case). Hell, I don't even want root exudate to get from the media container into my pure mixed base res, much less into the other plants.
ImaginaryFriend;4253398]True words.
I forget why I spent hundreds of dollars on float valves*. Maybe I found a old lady's purse and was feeling rich. As I've built it out, I'm not super pleased with the way it looks like it'll operate, and I might end up with some tire valves with a main control. So if the smaller plants don't have as much uptake (i.e. if the pulsed feed drains to the lower res in excess) everything will remain within moderate levels.
*That's a lie:
1. I knew I was going to be staging my two veg plants under a common light and wanted to be able to raise or lower the newest plant as I got her started. Whether or not I can be bothered with such details remains to be seen. If you saw my laundry pile, you might think it unlikely. If you look at the photo above, it's clear I haven't gotten around to it yet.
2. I am still in a state of abject fear of transferring some kind of shitty root issues from one plant to another (I'm just another RDWC trauma case). Hell, I don't even want root exudate to get from the media container into my pure mixed base res, much less into the other plants.[/quote]
ya i hear that.... my laundry list is kinda horrid too.. i really wanted to flower this weekend, not sure if im gonna make it, but fukkit ill do it right when the timing is right.
regarding your 'state of abject fear' ya - i'm with you there as well... ive actually been feeling that rdwc would be the logical progression.. 'not so passive plant killers..' heh.
fyi, im not against the tire valves, i bought a few to try, and still plan on giving it a whirl, i think that blaze's howto makes sense for the basic bucket/rez management:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=418330&postcount=2
I forget why I spent hundreds of dollars on float valves*. Maybe I found a old lady's purse and was feeling rich. As I've built it out, I'm not super pleased with the way it looks like it'll operate, and I might end up with some tire valves with a main control. So if the smaller plants don't have as much uptake (i.e. if the pulsed feed drains to the lower res in excess) everything will remain within moderate levels.
*That's a lie:
1. I knew I was going to be staging my two veg plants under a common light and wanted to be able to raise or lower the newest plant as I got her started. Whether or not I can be bothered with such details remains to be seen. If you saw my laundry pile, you might think it unlikely. If you look at the photo above, it's clear I haven't gotten around to it yet.
2. I am still in a state of abject fear of transferring some kind of shitty root issues from one plant to another (I'm just another RDWC trauma case). Hell, I don't even want root exudate to get from the media container into my pure mixed base res, much less into the other plants.[/quote]
ya i hear that.... my laundry list is kinda horrid too.. i really wanted to flower this weekend, not sure if im gonna make it, but fukkit ill do it right when the timing is right.
regarding your 'state of abject fear' ya - i'm with you there as well... ive actually been feeling that rdwc would be the logical progression.. 'not so passive plant killers..' heh.
fyi, im not against the tire valves, i bought a few to try, and still plan on giving it a whirl, i think that blaze's howto makes sense for the basic bucket/rez management:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=418330&postcount=2
I wouldn't be surprised if some entirely credible source told that time is speeding up. I moved a lady into flower last week, and in one week I move the next into cycle. It seems like a crazy long time to wait (14-16 days), but that wait is already half over and I'll have the next lady flipped in no time. Don't rush your grow. Next week will come and go in no time. Next month will come and go in no time. Do what you need to do to stay on track and be safe.
RDWC are super-fast super-convincing plant killers, but there's no irony in the name. To this day D9s never not taken a plant all the way through harvest. There are a billion RDWC failures.
Guys that I respect around here, DHF in particular, are right on when they say its more important to crop than to maxi-crop. If you loose one crop out of six to RDWC unexplained failure, you've lost more than you gained over the year.
If you really want to scare yourself, go check out some of the UC "HELP!!!!!" threads over on the farm. That'll make you shit for sure. There are loads of talented growers over there echoing DHF's statements over here: Fuck high flow water culture and get your roots in coco... if you want to crop.
There is too much going on, too few buffers, everything happens so fast. No one really knows what happening. " Oh, your pH was off. Your PPM was to high/too low. There was a place where there wasn't enough DO in your root zone. Oh, there was too much heat introduced in your root zone from your high powered air bubblers." Ignorant parrots cut-and-pasting what someone else said on some other thread on some other day.
The best grows are the simplest within these high-flow RDWC. Some extremely basic salt nute recipe, accompanied by some lethal regime of root zone sterilization. Anything that gets wet needs to be sterile. Anything that lives needs to be killed. All the time. Every minute of every day.
Nasty.
If you get the crazy itch to go down this road dagger, make sure you chase down all of DHF's posts on IC... wherever he posts, old school knowledge and good advice follows with regard to Shallow Water Culture and Deep Water Culture.
Heath Robinson doesn't have too much going on IC, but his thread "Latest Tree Grow" sets up a nice history for his modded waterfarms getting reclaimed by DoubleD's as MedPatientBuckets... and presents alternatives to aggressive bubbling within root zones by pump waterfalls in reservoirs, etc., to fully saturate solution with dissolved oxygen.
If I had the time and the space and the opportunity to dedicate a small area to RDWC, I'd love to, and build out some biofilter stacks and fuck with localized UV sterilization and shit. But my space and comfort dictates that every damn plant needs to come down, hang up, and go to jars.
So fuck that.
Sanity first.
Experimentation on high-risk tech second.
Or maybe two-hundred-fifteenth.
Yeah, so fuck that.
Actually heath's 1lb bud is what keeps me sane while I wait....
I have observed some gnats hanging around in my coco for the last little while.
Lets call it six months.
Right now I'm preparing a spray of Neem Oil. I read in a recent issue of High Times that there is something within the Neem that deters ingestion of plant material, and any material consumed causes the snacking buggy to puke to death.
Once, I nearly puked to death, and it really sucked.
I don't think I want to put any critter of any sort through that shit.
But I also think it would be absurd to allow any unnecessary root damage.
Two evil choices.
So I choose to kill them, and protect my ladies.
Now that I'm over that moral dilemma, back to the subject: in that same article, I read that this chemical/hormone/whatever contained within the Neem will be absorbed by the plant and becomes systemic. It tends to exist within the plant for about fifty days. So a solid root dunk ought to deal with the little buggers in the root zone, and discourage their return for quite some time... or force them to vomit until dead.
A reasonable preventive measure, one might think, would be to do a nice media drench after transplant, and then again right before flower.
So why am I not doing that? Well, I don't want to gum up the porosity of my media with oils. Is this a reasonable concern? Beats me. But that's what I'm thinking right now. So I'm going to spray the leaves as the instructions describe, and hope that it makes it's way down to the roots.
IMMEDIATE EDIT: It should be simple enough to take some coco, pour some Neem solution through it, and then see if it affects consistency. So I'll try that with whatever is left over from the spray.
I'm not sure if this is a reasonable approach. I have some sticky traps in the garden. They are not really picking up too many bugs, making me think that this isn't a real problem/infestation.
But I don't really know.
My media is always moist, and apparently some tribes of these little buggers don't ever show themselves if the humidity is decent in the coco.
So I'm going to try and do something proactive for a change. What if I'm loosing a ton of vigor to these little vampires that I don't even know exist?
If I repeat these sprays every week during veg, and stop seeing little buggers around, I'm going to presume that it was effective in dosing through the foliage.
Otherwise, I might try some of that Bayer Tree and Shrub crap.
Either way, I can't see the spray as damaging, and I like the idea of being proactive. So off we go.
Lets call it six months.
Right now I'm preparing a spray of Neem Oil. I read in a recent issue of High Times that there is something within the Neem that deters ingestion of plant material, and any material consumed causes the snacking buggy to puke to death.
Once, I nearly puked to death, and it really sucked.
I don't think I want to put any critter of any sort through that shit.
But I also think it would be absurd to allow any unnecessary root damage.
Two evil choices.
So I choose to kill them, and protect my ladies.
Now that I'm over that moral dilemma, back to the subject: in that same article, I read that this chemical/hormone/whatever contained within the Neem will be absorbed by the plant and becomes systemic. It tends to exist within the plant for about fifty days. So a solid root dunk ought to deal with the little buggers in the root zone, and discourage their return for quite some time... or force them to vomit until dead.
A reasonable preventive measure, one might think, would be to do a nice media drench after transplant, and then again right before flower.
So why am I not doing that? Well, I don't want to gum up the porosity of my media with oils. Is this a reasonable concern? Beats me. But that's what I'm thinking right now. So I'm going to spray the leaves as the instructions describe, and hope that it makes it's way down to the roots.
IMMEDIATE EDIT: It should be simple enough to take some coco, pour some Neem solution through it, and then see if it affects consistency. So I'll try that with whatever is left over from the spray.
I'm not sure if this is a reasonable approach. I have some sticky traps in the garden. They are not really picking up too many bugs, making me think that this isn't a real problem/infestation.
But I don't really know.
My media is always moist, and apparently some tribes of these little buggers don't ever show themselves if the humidity is decent in the coco.
So I'm going to try and do something proactive for a change. What if I'm loosing a ton of vigor to these little vampires that I don't even know exist?
If I repeat these sprays every week during veg, and stop seeing little buggers around, I'm going to presume that it was effective in dosing through the foliage.
Otherwise, I might try some of that Bayer Tree and Shrub crap.
Either way, I can't see the spray as damaging, and I like the idea of being proactive. So off we go.
Here is a failing in my thought process with regard to isolated solutions:
If plant exudates exist within the media, and there is a coherent water column from the sub-reservoir, through the wick, to the bulk media...
Then the tendency of solutions to seek equilibrium will eventually move those very same sugars out of the media into the lower zone...
Unless the speed of hydraulic transfer up the wick (due to nute uptake and evaporation) exceeded the time required for the sugar to mechanically establish an equilibrium.
In flower, this seems unlikely, as, in the absence of light, nute uptake drops significantly. So over that twelve hours of darkness, we could reasonably expect that the media solution concentration will approach equilibrium with the sub-reservoir.
Can this be a cause of the observed EC increase:
d9:
ANOTHER QUICK THOUGHT: It is generally accepted that root development ceases at the end of stretch. It is generally accepted that P is associated with root development. Might the increase in EC be related to P no longer being used in root infrastructure? If this up-trending increase in EC is the result of unused P, then a common reservoir with more rapid exchange (like jjfoo proposed, and I rejected) through veg and flower in a perpetual might really be a stable system insofar as the unused P might find its way back to the plants using P for root development.
If plant exudates exist within the media, and there is a coherent water column from the sub-reservoir, through the wick, to the bulk media...
Then the tendency of solutions to seek equilibrium will eventually move those very same sugars out of the media into the lower zone...
Unless the speed of hydraulic transfer up the wick (due to nute uptake and evaporation) exceeded the time required for the sugar to mechanically establish an equilibrium.
In flower, this seems unlikely, as, in the absence of light, nute uptake drops significantly. So over that twelve hours of darkness, we could reasonably expect that the media solution concentration will approach equilibrium with the sub-reservoir.
Can this be a cause of the observed EC increase:
d9:
quoted from PPK THREAD HERE
ANOTHER QUICK THOUGHT: It is generally accepted that root development ceases at the end of stretch. It is generally accepted that P is associated with root development. Might the increase in EC be related to P no longer being used in root infrastructure? If this up-trending increase in EC is the result of unused P, then a common reservoir with more rapid exchange (like jjfoo proposed, and I rejected) through veg and flower in a perpetual might really be a stable system insofar as the unused P might find its way back to the plants using P for root development.
This lady has about 20 days before she's scheduled to flower:
She's under horizontal lighting, and is far more bush than tree.
I suddenly realized I want to coax another vertical foot out of her before she moves into flower. Last time, I tried overdosing with P to force a stretch.
This time, I've decided to try and remove every four sets of branches, so that more of here energy can be dedicated to her primary lead:
I nipped the secondary growth yesterday, and she seems to have jumped that inch over night I was looking for. I'll let the next four leads stay, then remove the next set of four. I'm hoping to stay on it, so that she doesn't waste too much time developing suckers.
In general, my haphazard feeding approach seems to be getting in the way a bit. When I first glanced at this picture, I thought that the discoloration you see was localized, but I'd say about ten percent of the deep inner canopy is showing something similar.
I've already had to thin the interior branch structure of this girl pretty aggressively. Hopefully, this will make enough room for the internal branching to spread out and make good use of veg time and plant energy.
She's under horizontal lighting, and is far more bush than tree.
I suddenly realized I want to coax another vertical foot out of her before she moves into flower. Last time, I tried overdosing with P to force a stretch.
This time, I've decided to try and remove every four sets of branches, so that more of here energy can be dedicated to her primary lead:
I nipped the secondary growth yesterday, and she seems to have jumped that inch over night I was looking for. I'll let the next four leads stay, then remove the next set of four. I'm hoping to stay on it, so that she doesn't waste too much time developing suckers.
In general, my haphazard feeding approach seems to be getting in the way a bit. When I first glanced at this picture, I thought that the discoloration you see was localized, but I'd say about ten percent of the deep inner canopy is showing something similar.
I've already had to thin the interior branch structure of this girl pretty aggressively. Hopefully, this will make enough room for the internal branching to spread out and make good use of veg time and plant energy.
On Jacks.
But to keep it interesting, I'm hand watering and not checking pH or ppm. Essentially, on a whim, I drop equal parts Jacks and Cal-Nit into the a 5 gallon bucket attached with a float valve to my RO system. So my initial ppm is around EC 2.0, then I continue to water with that same refilling reservoir until instinct, intuition, or boredom demands that I repeat the process.
I keep changing my mind on how I want to run the pulse feed/bulk reservoir combination. So I just squeeze the coco for moisture content, and add through the top whatever I want to hit my air gap. It looks like a double stack bucket PPK, it just lacks all the benefits of automation and stability, etc.
I was daily mid-aggressively defoliating, and using supercropping-esque technique to manage vertical development (I have main trunks the thickness of a juvenile squirrel).
For a while, I thought the bigger, recently un-pictured lady was going to over grow my space. She still might. I don't know.
Now I'm removing any leaves that are offensive to me at the time, be it coloration, angulation, or disposition.
I've changed my mind, and am looking for more stretch and more vertical development, so I'm playing with the method described above wherein I remove every four shoots as I tried to picture above. I hope that it maintains a symmetrical distribution of limbs, opens up the interior of the plant for airflow, while encouraging more generally-verticalness out of the plant. I've got unused vertical space inside the flower room right now, and lady currently occupying the room seems unwilling to reach out for the ceiling. So I've changed my pruning/defoliating approach.
I'm also aggressively managing the inner structure of the plants using conventional pruning techniques (i.e. removal of cross structure, or anything growing purely vertical). Anything super spindly gets removed too. Spindly has no place in my current garden vision.
I move the big girl into flower tomorrow. I think. (Just checked the journal dates: my schedule says in two days). Then up-pot a small lady that I've got waiting for a chance to get big. I already introduced the every four shoot technique to her, and have been also trying to manage her structure early by removing potentially offensive development before it happens (and wastes her energy on it).
My operating plan is to set up a bucket with control, and house my pulse and manifold in there.
I'm increasingly convinced that I am best served by having all buckets recirculate. I know this is a radical departure from my previous position of no-root-zone interaction.
I've decided (with no evidence) that the post stretch rising ppm in D9's bucket is P related, I've concluded that it should be shared with ladies in veg who might use it for root development and increased stretch there (I want taller plants to take advantage of my lighting profile). So we'll go with the mixing approach, then see where the future holds.
But to keep it interesting, I'm hand watering and not checking pH or ppm. Essentially, on a whim, I drop equal parts Jacks and Cal-Nit into the a 5 gallon bucket attached with a float valve to my RO system. So my initial ppm is around EC 2.0, then I continue to water with that same refilling reservoir until instinct, intuition, or boredom demands that I repeat the process.
I keep changing my mind on how I want to run the pulse feed/bulk reservoir combination. So I just squeeze the coco for moisture content, and add through the top whatever I want to hit my air gap. It looks like a double stack bucket PPK, it just lacks all the benefits of automation and stability, etc.
I was daily mid-aggressively defoliating, and using supercropping-esque technique to manage vertical development (I have main trunks the thickness of a juvenile squirrel).
For a while, I thought the bigger, recently un-pictured lady was going to over grow my space. She still might. I don't know.
Now I'm removing any leaves that are offensive to me at the time, be it coloration, angulation, or disposition.
I've changed my mind, and am looking for more stretch and more vertical development, so I'm playing with the method described above wherein I remove every four shoots as I tried to picture above. I hope that it maintains a symmetrical distribution of limbs, opens up the interior of the plant for airflow, while encouraging more generally-verticalness out of the plant. I've got unused vertical space inside the flower room right now, and lady currently occupying the room seems unwilling to reach out for the ceiling. So I've changed my pruning/defoliating approach.
I'm also aggressively managing the inner structure of the plants using conventional pruning techniques (i.e. removal of cross structure, or anything growing purely vertical). Anything super spindly gets removed too. Spindly has no place in my current garden vision.
I move the big girl into flower tomorrow. I think. (Just checked the journal dates: my schedule says in two days). Then up-pot a small lady that I've got waiting for a chance to get big. I already introduced the every four shoot technique to her, and have been also trying to manage her structure early by removing potentially offensive development before it happens (and wastes her energy on it).
My operating plan is to set up a bucket with control, and house my pulse and manifold in there.
I'm increasingly convinced that I am best served by having all buckets recirculate. I know this is a radical departure from my previous position of no-root-zone interaction.
I've decided (with no evidence) that the post stretch rising ppm in D9's bucket is P related, I've concluded that it should be shared with ladies in veg who might use it for root development and increased stretch there (I want taller plants to take advantage of my lighting profile). So we'll go with the mixing approach, then see where the future holds.
daggerinmyback
Member
LOL I'm good just PPK'ing it I like the Simple Stable Cropable path... and I did look at undercurrent stuff and a million different RDWC and many other "topsey turvey" (upside down tomato basket grow thingy) things and the one thing they dont ALL have for me to choose is a genie in a bottle that can pop up and let one wish be to fix the unknown problem, be it, pH swings, Nute Lockout, throwing away more nutes than a plant used ... I view it as a crop missed is a year failed
The only ppk failure Ive seen was the cops carrying them out of my house... 2 days before I chop, salt in the wound was I grew trimmed and chopped them there but kept elsewhere to dry...2 days... not a fan or shade leaf on em
PPK is cheap build and maintains itself with minimal effort and I only have to rebuy CoCo, and Jacks along with Calc Nit... other types require way more stuff and time and I cant give it my wifes already pissed but she knows its worth it
By The Way, NICE JOB! I liked the way they turned out
The only ppk failure Ive seen was the cops carrying them out of my house... 2 days before I chop, salt in the wound was I grew trimmed and chopped them there but kept elsewhere to dry...
2 days... not a fan or shade leaf on em PPK is cheap build and maintains itself with minimal effort and I only have to rebuy CoCo, and Jacks along with Calc Nit... other types require way more stuff and time and I cant give it my wifes already pissed but she knows its worth it
By The Way, NICE JOB! I liked the way they turned out
...that's right... High powered mysterious systems scare me.
Before:
After:
Really pretty dense structure (too dense), but not as impressive as I might have hoped for two weeks of veg. I guess shitty practices will do that to a grow.
After:
Really pretty dense structure (too dense), but not as impressive as I might have hoped for two weeks of veg. I guess shitty practices will do that to a grow.
Tried to build out a D9 style control bucket.
Tire valves were great and easy and cheap (used 7/16" bit to drill the holes).
All I could find to slide over the thread was clear vinyl with an ID of 1/4" or 3/16". I grabbed both.
I was somehow successful getting the 3/16 over the threads, and jamming my 1/4" OD tube in there, to make a water tight seal... on one. I couldn't get any more to thread over the tube. I tried different angle cuts across the face, tried to snip a relief. No luck.
So I tested the 1/4" ID, and it seemed to hold water, and was much easier to install. In use, however, it did not make a water tight seal. So then I jammed my 3/16" ID into the 1/4" ID and plugged my 1/4" OD into that. This was an improvement, but still not water tight. So I'm back to the drawing board, and not expecting to find any medical tubing locally.
Bummer.
Tire valves were great and easy and cheap (used 7/16" bit to drill the holes).
All I could find to slide over the thread was clear vinyl with an ID of 1/4" or 3/16". I grabbed both.
I was somehow successful getting the 3/16 over the threads, and jamming my 1/4" OD tube in there, to make a water tight seal... on one. I couldn't get any more to thread over the tube. I tried different angle cuts across the face, tried to snip a relief. No luck.
So I tested the 1/4" ID, and it seemed to hold water, and was much easier to install. In use, however, it did not make a water tight seal. So then I jammed my 3/16" ID into the 1/4" ID and plugged my 1/4" OD into that. This was an improvement, but still not water tight. So I'm back to the drawing board, and not expecting to find any medical tubing locally.
Bummer.
Yeah...
Google found me plenty. Sadly, nothing easily put into my hand. I'll probably just have to order some, and replace my 'plumbing' when I get it. Just trying to move forward.
I did hook up my pulse feed. I ran it to the youngest of the girls 'on deck'. What an immediate positive response. Fuck me for being so damn lazy over the last couple of months.
FOR THE RECORD: Moved my second plant into my 'perpetual' today--she's in her first 12 hour dark cycle. I may have been a day early. But I really wanted to put her in two weeks ago, so I'm still kinda proud of myself for this amount of patience. I'll try and plumb up the two girls in cycle with some pulse action later... then deal with my leaks... then... then... then...
Oh. Time to up-pot my next 'on deck' girl.
Google found me plenty. Sadly, nothing easily put into my hand. I'll probably just have to order some, and replace my 'plumbing' when I get it. Just trying to move forward.
I did hook up my pulse feed. I ran it to the youngest of the girls 'on deck'. What an immediate positive response. Fuck me for being so damn lazy over the last couple of months.
FOR THE RECORD: Moved my second plant into my 'perpetual' today--she's in her first 12 hour dark cycle. I may have been a day early. But I really wanted to put her in two weeks ago, so I'm still kinda proud of myself for this amount of patience. I'll try and plumb up the two girls in cycle with some pulse action later... then deal with my leaks... then... then... then...
Oh. Time to up-pot my next 'on deck' girl.
S
SCROG McDuck
Amazing Goop on the 1/4 inch hose, it slides into the 3/8s tubeing easier and as it dries, it melts the plastic just enough for water tight seal.. Amazing goop on the threads of the valve stem and then screw the, 1-2inch piece of 3/8s onto the valve stem.. I havent had a single leak..used with Watts PL-3000 (Lowes/HD) 1/4" quick disconnects and changing out rezs' simple.. they work on air-tight connections too.
Grabbed some plumbing repair tape. Found it while I was wandering around looking for 'Goop'.
Not as clean as the proper hose, but it'll do for now. Tight. Effective. Nice.
If I had to build out two million of these fittings though, I'd definitely pre-buy the medical hose in bulk. The repair tape is effective, but moving away from the cheap end of things. It's nice to have around though. Fixed a little problem I had with my RO supply to bulk reservoir while I was at it... Fewer expensive puddles = better.
Not as clean as the proper hose, but it'll do for now. Tight. Effective. Nice.
If I had to build out two million of these fittings though, I'd definitely pre-buy the medical hose in bulk. The repair tape is effective, but moving away from the cheap end of things. It's nice to have around though. Fixed a little problem I had with my RO supply to bulk reservoir while I was at it... Fewer expensive puddles = better.
oldone
Member
Good Evening everyone,
IF, have you ever tried heating the tubing before fitting it onto the tire valves? I use 1/4" barbed fittings and it can be a chore to slide the vinyl tubing onto it.
A heat gun works best and a hair dryer might work or even a candle. Also a little vaselene can help as well.
Just a thought...
OO
PS; I use black electricians tape to cover my clear tubing...kind of tedious but it works and is cheap.
IF, have you ever tried heating the tubing before fitting it onto the tire valves? I use 1/4" barbed fittings and it can be a chore to slide the vinyl tubing onto it.
A heat gun works best and a hair dryer might work or even a candle. Also a little vaselene can help as well.
Just a thought...
OO
PS; I use black electricians tape to cover my clear tubing...kind of tedious but it works and is cheap.
Strangely
Member
Impressive stuff IF! I'll be having a dabble with the old plumbing supplies having almost finished my first grow. As OldOne Foretold (I was already a good way in so forged on) my micro cloth wicks went all gross and stinky nearest the roots (and in the air gap). So media wicks coming up. Simple stuff in comparison to what's going on here!
