It might cost a grand total of 25 bucks to source the barrels needed as itemized in the video. How much do you spend on other stuff for growing?
The water thing sounds like bullshit to me. You can still use water with the barrel system. Did you note that we had superior results with shavings?
And as far as pollution is concerned, charcoal is one of the only ways to fix carbon that normal people can do. If you are clearing the growth anyways, might as well make some of it char in as efficient a manner possible.
I always thought it trippy that composting is actually a co2 producer. Charcoal fixes it in a useful form.
We as humans need to be fixing gigatons of co2, but that is for a different thread.
I'm more looking to make a small amount of it made from my dried marijuana plants to get it tested at a soil test lab as a favor to somebody.AgentPothead , my friend that uses the 35gal tried over a dozen times to get the paint can size to work. It was hit or miss with mostly dismal failure. Packing material just right was nearly impossible he said. Hes used the 35 for a couple years now and looks good as new he said. He never quenches it with water as it hastens oxidation
If you only need a small quantity, an old charred log that has been sitting around for a decade or so is just the ticket
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=79959&pictureid=1937944View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=79959&pictureid=1937945View Image
no need to make charcoal and charge it as nature has done the work for you
very cool of you, do you have a lab in mind and price of the test?I'm more looking to make a small amount of it made from my dried marijuana plants to get it tested at a soil test lab as a favor to somebody.
I have only used the Umass Soil lab in the past. They seem like good people. Can't discuss the soil being about marijuana since it's federally funded, but you can get recommendations for tomatoes.very cool of you, do you have a lab in mind and price of the test?
We, my buddy and I, were just thinking the same thing
I have three plants that started retting and he has three identical a bit smaller that have been is his shed
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=79870&pictureid=1937977View Image
Wood be cool if labs would wave the fee and do it for the good of mankind but money makes the wheels go round so it is what it is
We are definitely interested in participating if nothing else for own curiosity's sake
Years ago oregon state univerity small farms program would do soil and plant samples for free for the asking. Those days are long gone.Plant Tissue Nutrient Test (with Nitrogen) .............................................................$ 45.00 per sample
A determination of the total tissue P, K, Ca, Mg, Zn, Cu, Mn, Fe, and B. Analysis by ICP spectrometry of acid wet digestion using Nitric Acid, Hydrochloric Acid, and Hydrogen Peroxide in a block digester. Also included is total Nitrogen by catalytic combustion.
Yeah I just run the Routine Soil Analysis it gives the information I need. And yeah prices are shit, last year it was 15$ this year is 20$ for the same test. 45$ seems excessive for a base level soil test, but that seems to be a plant tissue nutrient test. IE you give them a plant sample, not a soil sample. I guess you could keep some of the plant and get that tested as like a before test, then use the rest of the plant to make biochar and get that tested with the soil test.Thanks for the link, would you be doing the NPK test like the one below or is there a test for ash content?
Years ago oregon state univerity small farms program would do soil and plant samples for free for the asking. Those days are long gone.
do not use anything galvanized. burning it will make you very ill.If one wishes, there are unpainted barrels available new for an expense. I just purchased barrels through Craigslist or used from the feed store or at the junk yard. We usually rotated a new (to us) barrel on a fire to burn off the paint. There are better (for the environment) ways to do this I'm sure. I've not seen barrels made from galvanized steel.
As you can see from the photos we used heavy steel with a 55 gallon barrel inside. Not the best. I never got around to implementing the method in the video but using the smaller sized barrel as chimney is clever. The adapted portion could be created with drill and saw or snips. I'm not sure what blower one member referenced. Maybe they called that portion a blower in the video.
I would think the barrels would last relatively long. I can't speak to that set up but I've used one burning barrel for 10 years.
If you decide on the pit method, as was pointed out, use dry wood and keep knocking it down as you go. Contrary to what some biochar experts claim, I think smaller branches is best.